Prius (Gen 2) :: 2009 Toyota Lost Power After Hitting Tiny Hole
Jun 28, 2015
I figure out it is because of my coolant pump; however, I hit a huge pothole about a month ago during the morning time, and the entire car lost power. I was assuming it just rattled something, but then the other day after I was driving for about 2 hours, I hit a tiny hole and the car lost power.
However, when the car lost power, it started making this weird rubbing noise as if the timing belt had went off track or something. I'm not sure if that's even possible, but I pulled over, turned the car off, and turned the car back on. Everything was fine after that and I continued to drive for a few more hours.
I do not think the transaxle fluid was ever changed at the 60k interval and I just hit 100k two nights ago. I decided I'm not going to Uber anymore until I get this all taken care of. I need this car to last as long as possible, and I am definitely worried about the ATF or whatever because it's 40k past when it's supposed to be changed.
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I have a 2011 Prius 2, with 35K miles, and have noticed a clicking sound in the steering when hitting a small bump or hole in the road. If the car is parked, I can rock the steering wheel back and forth, and hear a clicking sound. I do not remember the noise being there until recently.
Also the radio reception seems to have gotten weaker. If I am on a trip out of town, it now seems that I am looking for stronger stations frequently, as static interferes. I had the car to the dealer for this a few months ago, and they said they could not duplicate the problem
This car is about ready to drop off the warranty, and would like to have Toyota pay for the repair if it is needed.
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I have a 2005 Subaru Legacy wagon with 190k. The exhaust(original) has a tiny hole in a pipe that looks like Y and splits to the two mufflers.
Can some thing like this get repaired or do you have to replace the entire exhaust?
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here its is i have a 1986 ford f350 6.9 aftermarket turbo set up i was driving it then i went over rail road tracks lost all power to fuse box no headlights no interior lights no ignition power batteries are good so now when i turn key nothing lights up it just killed my whole truck....
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Driving home the other day I crossed some railroad tracks. They weren't too bad, but bumpy. I wasn't going too fast over them, had slowed a bit with traffic. As I cleared the tracks and hit the gas, nothing happened. The car hadn't stalled and I didn't hear any noises, but for about a second as I pressed the gas, it didn't go in gear.
I think the engine revved, like it was in neutral. I looked down and the traction control light was blinking, but no clicking noises were heard. After a second it started acting normal again, and I have gone over those tracks again the next day to try to replicate and it didn't happen again. Is this a known issue, traction control kicks in when a bump is hit...but no clicking noise like i usually get on ice/snow? Or should I have it looked at?
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I'm having some trouble with my Edge. For the last six months, there's been a maddening sound coming from my dashboard (though, lately I've been thinking it's coming from my radio in the center). It's like a reverberating noise, as if a leaf fell in the vents on top of my dash or something got into my vents in the center of my console. It's not constant, and occurs when leisurely driving through my neighborhood at 25mph or when I'm coming down from 50+ mph. It's a tiny clicking/rustling noise. So far, I've had my front under-dash re-insulated in case it is a loose coil, and my shifting gear replaced (the dealer though it was a part that came loose inside of the shifter). Nobody can figure this noise out and I'm going crazy on the way to work ever day (I drive at least an hour a day). I cannot spend more on this car just hoping to not hear the clicking anymore!
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I was driving up hill last night and the van lost power competely. The car did not die out but I could not get it to move. After it cooled down for 20 minutes or so I was able to move it another half block up hill out of the intersection I was obstructing. It then failed again. I was able to shift it into 'L' to move it to the side. I had it towed home. This morning the battery is not completely dead but the car won't turn over. Sound like the transmission?
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I'm driving a 2008 Highlander, but this question applies to almost any car, I think. On a couple of occasions the Highlander has lost power, and I've lost braking and steering ability. Each time this happened I was going at slow speeds and was able to stop without a nasty problem then restart the car. But what if this happens and I really need to brake? Three related questions:
(a) Are power brakes going to stop the Highlander even when it has lost power?
(b) If not, will the parking/emergency brake be useful?
(c) If the answers to (a) and (b) are "No", what should I do?
Of course, I'd love to know why Highlander lost power, but my Toyota dealer was not able to replicate the problem, even after driving the SUV 100+ miles (the two occasions it happened to me were separated by about 5000 miles of driving).
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I've looked at all the shudder issues thru the forums and mine seems a little different. Mine feels like I'm riding over tiny rumble strips or like pebbles and at all speeds. I just got new tires and a front end alignment. mine seems to do a little bit of that shudder thing but all the time. I bought it used from a honda dealer with 48k on it. I have to take it to them for the warranty they gave me. Curious how that's going to work out. 2009 5.4 3.55 rear and 157" wb. 4x4.
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I have a 2006 Toyota Solara V-6. I was driving down the street with no indication of what was about to happen. All of the sudden my check engine light came on and the car lost all power. I had the car towed home and had a mechanic look at it he put his scanner on it and I'm not sure what codes if any came up but he decided it was the ECM so he found a used one with a warranty and ordered it, he put it in and it did the same thing it turns over but wont start. What could it be ?
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I have 163,000 + on my 2009 fx4. Recently I have lost my take off power and passing power. I have the manifold leak but the dealership says that's not the problem. Took it in twice to the dealership and once to an independent and nobody knows what's wrong. No codes are showing. Had a dealership tune-up at about 120,000 miles. Need some starting points cause it's very annoying and unsafe. I tow alot and the "get up and go" is gone.
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Just a note to mention that last Friday my fiance was driving her'13 F150 with Ecoboost (73,000 mi) and heard a "loud" pop when accelerating then engine lost power. She called me so I had her restart it and all seemed fine- but drove 1/2 mile and same thing. Called Ford roadside service- got a tow within 30 min to dealer down road.
Turns out they had to replace the throttle body. Fortunately I have the Ford Extended Warranty thru 125,000. This was the second significant failure for the truck- first was a leaking A/C Evaporator which required pulling the entire dash. I won't keep this truck beyond the extended warranty.
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I have a 2011 f150 eco, i was having trouble with the turbos building boost and dumping to early, kept surging. I took it to my dealer so they ordered the deflector plate and intercooler, i took it in on weds and just picked it up today after they installed those parts and reprogrammed the computer with the latest calibration, this truck runs like a dog now, seems like it lost all the power it used to have? I called my dealer and am taking it back Monday for them to look at it again!
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Just hasn't been my luck lately guys. Last night was around 4 F out, taking a left at an intersection and lost power. Though it might be the TC kicking in as it was a bit icy out, but no indication of that on the dash. Then the "service engine" wrench showed up for a second on the display.
This was followed by the airbag light turning on, and the truck going into some kind of limp mode. The speedo indicated "0 MPH" though I was running about 2k RPMs in 5th.
My display showed this:
I couldn't force a downshift with the throttle, or get one from manual mode. I slowed down and pulled over at a safe place, shut the truck off and restarted. Hasn't happened since then.
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So this has already happened to me a 2nd time so far.
I depress brakes and hit the power button once when I first drive it in the morning after the Prius has been sitting for a while.
Instead of the power LED turning green, it turns red/amber, and the ready light does not show up blinking or come on at all. To me it almost appears to be in IG-ON mode.
I hit the power button again (can't remember if my foot was on the brake) and all the accessories shut down/car shuts down and I see the shifter indicator on the screen.
I then try to start again by depressing brake and hitting power button once. Now everything starts up fine and the ready symbol is there.
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I was driving back home from work and I happen to notice smoke. Oil is coming out of the top of the dipstick hole not the bottom o ring. It seems the crank is building too much pressure . It's a 1990 5sfe so it does not have a pcv valve,ithasa pcv system which is basically a hose from the valve cover to the throttle body.
This does not happen initially when I turn the car on from a cold start. I turn it on leave it at idle for a while and even rev it up and hold it high. It starts to leak after about a 2 mile drive and the car is at running temperature. I removed the hose on the valve cover when the car was at idle and a good amount if air blows out when at idle now when I rev the car up the air blowing out drops some.
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I have had my 2010 trim two for about a year and have noticed something about it. When I get up to about 70 MPH on the interstate I am constantly having to make tiny steering corrections. On most cars I've had I could let go of the steering wheel and unless there was a curve the car would go straight. I don't know if there is something mechanical wrong, it is the wind shear, or all in my head. All I know is that I'm an old man, and it stresses me out to get above 65 in this car. If it is that way with all pri's are the Gen 4's any better.
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I've looked at [URL] at the three primary hitch receivers for the 2013 RX 350; Curt, Hidden, Draw-tite.
From the side profile picture which etrailer displays for each, the Curt has one hole and the other two have two. Those two appear to be different sizes. The one on the Curt seems to appear smaller than the larger of the other two holes on the other two hitch receivers.
I called etrailer and the person I spoke with could not tell me why they were different, they just read the specs I see on the page, tongue weight, load, blah, blah.
With my hitch, I will need to haul a Yakima trailer, about 450 Ibs total, it is a very lightweight trailer, or a 2" Yakima bike rack. Maybe some day, I'll need to haul something of substance, but I have no plans.
I'm also wondering if a hitch which is recessed back, will it be difficult to work the pin in and out?
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2010 corolla s. I was driving home one hot day and ac would not work.checked engine and it was the ac condenser that had a hole.
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When the sun is fairly low but bright on the horizon and in front of the windshield there are thousands of tiny specks visible in the windshield that are fairly evenly distributed. They are very small and almost look metallic and appear to be within the safety glass laminate. It is very annoying even when using the sun visor and restricts visibility noticeably.
We have the same thing with our 2006 Prius with approx 80,000 miles and our 2010 Prius has about 30,000 miles. At first I thought it might be some pitting on the surface of the windshield due to road or dust debris but the glass appears to be perfectly smooth. No matter how well I clean the windshield these small specks still appear. I have researched this a bit and have seen quite a few reports from others with this phenomenon especially with GM and BMW vehicles even with new vehicles or new windshields. The most likely thing I have found so far is that it is caused by a metal flake put between the glass lamination to reduce glare.
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So my wife nailed a small spike buck and he when up under the truck. On his way back, his antlers hit the intercooler. One side tube was collapsed and the other collapsed but tore open. Has to repair one the tubes and, if so, with what. I was thinking I could pull the dent out with a pick and then put some sort of epoxy over it.
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