Prius (Gen 2) :: 2009 - How To Repair Cracked Housing On Inverter Connector
Dec 2, 2011
I have a salvaged 2009 prius. I just found out from my dealer that the connector between the a/c compressor and the synergy drive inverter is cracked and falling apart so it's causing a short. You can't just change the connector so the bill to replace the a/c compressor and the inverter comes to about $6700 and it's not under warranty because it's salvaged.
I an trying to find if there's ways for me to just replace the connector and where I might be able to find such a thing. The other thought I have is to just find some way to create an insulated housing for the existing connector. Maybe use a plastic mold?
What's the best way to go? The connector basically has two parts. One part is attached to the a/c compressor and the other part is attached to the inverter and then you just connect them together as if it's a power extension cable. It's orange in color.
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I'll be back to post the whole situation if the dealer doesn't make right on what I'm going through right now, but wanted to ask as I didn't find much searching, any issue with a cracked oil filter housing? I took car in for 30k service and came back leaking oil. Apparently part is back ordered and may take weeks. I spoke with ECS tuning and they said they don't have their aluminum filter housing yet for this model.
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My fuel filter housing has cracked and i need to replace it. I have been told by volvo that i need to have it programed is this true or not ???
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How to replace the plastic (painted) part of the sideview mirror? The glass is fine and the mount is fine, but I've clipped something and cracked the painted plastic. Is that replaceable separately? What is the part number?
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I wonder how prevalent this problem is with Ford alternators. Sure looks like it was cracked a long time, like maybe from over-tightening. I was planning on having new bearings installed to hopefully take care of a periodic whine. Already replaced the idler pulleys. As much as I dislike rebuilt alternators, looks like I will be getting one.
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My Kia Optima side view mirror popped off when it hit a trash can and I was wondering if there was any way to reattach it? I was thinking of using some really strong epoxy, but I don't know where I would apply it since the mirror rotates when it comes in contact with other objects and if I used epoxy I might lose that functionality. I attached an image .....
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]I am in the process of swapping my oil cooler. When i pulled the smaller cover off of the cover that goes over the oil cooler, i heard a pop. The cover, not the one that bolts onto the motor the one that bolts to that, is cracked...bad. is there a place i can get one? need to know parts illustration with numbers?
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I have a 2006 Sonata with 88,000 miles on it. Currently, and for the past 11 months, the CEL has been on and the code always returned is a p0456, very small evap leak.
I searched for leaks but couldn't find any. I also replaced the purge control valve, but the same p0456 continues to reappear. Of course I also made sure the gas cap was on tight.
I received a coupon from the dealer for a free diagnostic so I took the car in.
The dealer reported the code as p0455, large evap leak, and said the cause was a cracked fuel pump housing. Cost to repair $850. Seems to me the dealer just picked the most costly part to replace, although I can confirm they looked at it because they forgot to screw the access cover back on.
So what I would like to know is how the dealer would have made such a diagnosis? I cleaned and inspected the outside of the pump and saw no crack, but I also understand that the crack may be too small see.
I want to be able to confirm that the dealer's diagnosis is correct, but how can I do that? I have a hand operated vacuum pump and access to shop air to aid in the diagnosis.
I read elsewhere on this site about pressurizing the system and putting soapy water on the area to show bubbles where the leak is, but where would I connect the air hose? And more importantly, what is a safe pressure to use?
Of course tracking down the cause of p0456. I know the charcoal canister could be problem as well, but I'd like to find some way of isolating down the failing component.
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This pump hangs down fairly low and appears easy for ice and rocks to hit on my 2013. Something hit mine and took a chunk out of the drain tube. No leaks yet but I am looking to get a new one and keep this as a spare, or just JB weld it. Can I just buy the lower section, or do I need to get entire pump?
Any creative protection bracket made? Would just have to take it off to change filter though. Any leak in this housing is a major show stopper when in the middle of nowhere! Maybe why it is getting brought into the tank on new models?
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I have a 2002 Subaru Outback. The rear right brake light housing cracked, and filled up with water, shorting the bulbs. I thought I was clever in taking the light unit off, draining the water, changing the bulbs, and caulking the crack with silicon. This worked for a while, then the battery died. I couldn't really figure out why - it was a year old, and had no prior issues starting the car. I swapped out the battery for a brand new one, and that seemed to solve the issue for a week. Then the car refused to start all over again. I remembered the brake light, checked it - filled again. So I replaced the unit and the pig electric line, and charge the battery. This seemed to solve the problem, but then the car failed to start after about 3 weeks.
One additional detail is the dial light switch on the driving shaft. One is able to turn this to adjust light settings. Regardless of position, the lights turn off when I turn off the car. However, failure to start seems to be additionally related to the position of this switch; if it's switched all the way back towards the driver the car appears to start consistently for weeks on end, BUT the tail lights fail to turn on in this position (though the brake lights work). Alternatively, dialing the switch all the way away from the driver turns on the tail lights, but seems to be related to battery drain.
I've checked the health of the battery and the contacts - everything checks out. At this point I'm wondering if it's an electrical fault or the alternator.
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Hooked up to my trailer and I have running lights but no turn signals, brake lights, or trailer brakes. I pulled plugged in my other vehicle to the trailer and everything works fine. My truck is a 2011 with the factory trailer brake control and pigtail connection. It worked fine last year.
I checked the connector with a test light and there is only power to the running lights. I then disconnected the plug at the back of the trailer connector and tested there and got the same results. Are there particular fuses or relays I should look at?
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Just returned from an 8500 mile travel trailer trip with my 2012 F150 with EcoBoost. Couldn't be happier with how the truck performed. Did discover, however, that my 7-pin connector does NOT charge trailer battery while driving. Wasn't a problem this trip, but could be an issue when dry camping (no electrical hookup). Is it a big deal to get my connector to charge trailer battery while driving?
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I am trying to change the oil on my dad's 2012 corolla LE, and this is the first oil change since it's been out of the 25k mile service plan. I ordered the exact 64mm 14 flute wrench and the filter housing WILL NOT unscrew. I have looked at several videos online and I am sure I'm going the right way. I have tried kicking it, hitting it with a rubber mallet... and nothing! My friend has a breaker bar we are gonna try to use in a little while... Is there any history of dealerships sabotaging this kind of thing so you have to bring it back?
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My water pump housing is leaking. My 09 is well out of warranty but that's not really my question. I would like to know what you did when you replaced your water pump. did you upgrade to a metal impeller pump such as the GEBA brand?
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How to remove the engine air filter you have to unscrew the front and back of the housing? Yeah. So I'm missing the back bolt AND the metal/silver thing that holds it in place. The dealer told me they don't sell the part separately and I'd have to purchase a whole new unit ...
Additionally, the engine air filter housing vibrates heavily. It's not due to the above and what's causing it. It's vibrating so much I'm almost afraid it's going to damage other parts.
This is a 2009 Camry LE 4 cyl.
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I just washed my corolla today and I noticed a long black sticky piece of sealant laying on my windshield. So I looked around the edges of my rear windshield and to my surprised there were couple of cracks on the sealant. Not just cracked seal but also an inch to 3 inches of sealant are gone.
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My GF recently purchased a used 2009 Corolla LE when a yuppie type with a bad texting habit, rear ended and totaled her last ride.
It is a great little car with excellent handling and performance. We also enjoy the 30mpg's and sub $40 fill ups.
I drove it recently and noticed a knobby tire sound coming from the rear of the car. I rotated the tires to see if the noise moved with the tires and it did not (this was to rule out a cupping tire). I suspected a wheel bearing / hub failing and took it to my mechanic buddy to confirm. He agreed with me as there are really no other moving parts back there other than the brake shoes. I had already taken it down the highway and gently applied the parking brake to rule that out. No change when the parking brake was applied at highway speeds.
Found the hub assy at Rock Auto and it took about 30 minutes to replace. It comes complete with an abs sensor. The hub housing was blue from excessive heat so it was about to seize or fail completely which would have been ugly.
the bearing rides is actually blue from excessive heat.....
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I was loading some 2x4's and one hit the rear tail light housing and broke it easily. Hard to believe it broke so easy. Will be picking up a new one at the dealer! Wish it was made out of high impact plastic . You can't just get the clear cover. You have the buy the whole unit.
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what is the 12v charging amperage of the gen II Inverter?
i just bought a 07 Prius with 43k
i am into ham radio and i will be installing a handfull of ham radios, including one that on high power can draw as much as 20 amps from 12v system during transmit.
all the radios in receive mode together draw about 6 amps.
im used to traditional alternator ratings of 50 70 90 and 100+ amps but upon searching this site, i have found no info about the 12v battery charging systems amperage output.
any one have specs on the 12v charging system output?
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My 2001 Prius with 134k miles has been running great but leaves a small amount of coolant on the ground after parking. I've had to add approximately 8 ounces per 100 miles.
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I just noticed my 2010 Prius doesn't have the plastic piece/cover that goes across the inverter. I posted a picture of the black plastic/metal? piece/cover. Would any service require the removal of that piece? Only thing I can think of is the Dealer replacing the recalled brake pump assembly.
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