I just bought my first Prius, a used 2009. So far I like it very much. I just have one concern: The engine seems to run roughly, especially when it's idling and when it goes up to about 45mph. I'm not sure if this is normal for a hybrid and I'm just not used to it or if it indicates a problem. The problem persists even after it's warmed up.
View 17 RepliesI posted earlier about my car idling roughly, the dealership is now saying it may be my engine or transmission mounts. I have a 2002 Passat wagon with 41500 miles.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2004 Prius with 196k on it. Over the past 3 months, I have had the P0505 CEL come on about 3 times. After looking over everything and not noticing it running differently, I have cleared the code and kept going. The CEL stays off for a 3-4 weeks, then comes back on.
Yesterday, the light came on and was accompanied by a rougher idle. I checked the code and the only one shown is P0505 reads as Idle Air Control System. I removed the airbox and cleaned the MAF sensor with MAF spray and cleaned the throttle body valve with throttle body cleaner spray. They were both dirty, but didn't seem too bad.
I came out to my car to go to work and it sounds like a Mack truck idling roughly. I'm trying to get a hold of my mechanic to confirm the problem before calling the police and AAA and my insurance. He hasn't called back, so I'm dead in the water sitting in my car.
View 19 RepliesI recently had $1600+ of work done on my 2005 Mazda 3 (L4 2.0L). R&R Head Gasket and Thermostat and Coolant Temperature sensor replaced. Since then it's been idling roughly. This was NOT occurring prior to the work. Mechanic says it needs a couple of weeks to "sync"? Does this makes sense? I'm wondering if they did something wrong to cause the problem.
View 9 RepliesI recently pulled the head gaskets on my '98 RAM 1500's 360 Magnum and after two weeks of waiting on the machine shop I've put everything back in and to torque specs. After a battle with the starter ending in pulling all the shims I painstakingly marked I got it to fire up. But, it is now idling roughly. I burped the coolant system, checked the oil level and removed some as it was slightly overfilled.
I also had an exhaust leak so I checked torque specs on the exhaust manifold. All of this worked marginally but when I felt comfortable moving the vehicle I found that in gear with the throttle open it would sputter, idling it moves along just fine. The engine is pulling air weakly through the filter and I noticed it is blowing a little white smoke when given gas. My OBD2 reader doesn't pull up any codes, I'm at my wits end.
I had an engine transplant (JDM) and am now getting P0300, P0301, P0302 and P0302 OBD2 codes with my Check Engine light. These are all cylinder misfire codes. A post on Google suggested these may be due to a leaking intake manifold gasket and suggested a replacement. My 2001 Celica GT is stalling out from standstill, idling roughly and hesitating.
View 8 RepliesI have 2006 Subaru Forester that is idling roughly. 90k – oil change every 3k miles. Per diagnostic codes I learned that the 2nd cylinder was misfiring. I replaced the coil, spark plugs, ignition wires, and an airflow sensor. Yet, my car still idles rough. The check engine light is solid and the cruise control is flashing. The idling problem only happens when stopped… after I get high rpms there is no shaking. I had someone disconnect the battery and reset the computer and the lights stayed off for about a week and idling was fine. Week later – the problem returned. I think this an electrical problem, but not sure if mechanical.
View 19 RepliesI have a 2011 Sonata GLS with 86k miles. Sometimes, like once every 2-3 days, when I start the car, nothing appears in the box that says "P, R, N, D". The transmission also acts very strange. I often don't notice the blank box when I start the car, but immediately notice it when I put it in reverse or drive. There is an awful "clunk" from the transmission, and the car drives like I'm driving it through 6 inches of mud. I stop, put it in park, restart the car, the problem is gone.
The dealer said if it is a problem with the shift lever, that is not covered under the drivetrain warranty. I really don't have the money for the dealer to do expensive diagnostics/repair.
I feel that Bob's thread on the frequency of rough engine starts needs a companion poll; whether it's caused by a warm-up cycle that was cut short or not. It seems to me like this is what is most often fingered as the culprit of the rough engine starts, but feel free to post other theories below.
Same rules as his, for ease: ZVW30, 2010 Prius owners only.
We have two 2000 Echos with 125,000 and 130,000 miles on them. We took my husband's Echo into the shop because it died when idling, and then it started running rough and stumbling. Also needed an alignment. They fixed it by replacing the idle sensor, the mass air flow sensor, and worked on the valve train. They said they couldn't do the alignment because the control arms needed to be replaced due to the bushings. A week before his car went into the shop, my car started running rough and stumbling. So I took it in when I picked his car up. Same diagnosis except for the idle. Is it reasonable for BOTH to need all this work at the same approx. mileage?
View 5 RepliesIn the Car Talk column on 1/3/2016, it sounds like Lynnette's 1991 Honda Civic wagon was experiencing very similar symptoms to my wife's 2001 Honda Odyssey (189,000 mi) a few months ago. Rough idle, engine almost dies sometimes at stops, groans during acceleration. Additionally, accelerating between 40-60 mph our Honda would feel like it was "loading up," running rich or in the wrong gear climbing hills. I replaced the idle air control valve, which fixed the rough idle but not the other symptoms. Turned out I needed to reset (power cycle) the ECM and go through a curb idle/rev warm-up procedure so it would relearn the throttle position sensor's operating range after replacing the IAC valve. I disconnected the battery, removed and reinserted the hazard fuse, then reconnected the battery. Then from a cold start held the throttle at 3000 rpm until the engine warmed up to normal or the electric fans kicked on. Since then it's back to smooth, strong acceleration we expect from the Honda we love.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2009 Scion xD and when I am idling in D or P, my car sounds like a diesel engine. It makes this propeller kind of sound on the driver side and it is worse when I am stopped or idling, but does not go away when I am driving. It has about 76,000 miles and I moved from AZ to CA, not that I think that makes much of a difference, but the high heat in AZ can cause problems for cars. The heater core went out in the fall of last year and I just had all 4 struts replaced. I really don’t want to have to spend too much more on the car to be honest and hope this is just a simple issue.
View 1 RepliesI have a 09 w/ DSG and 64K miles. Love it. Never had one mechanical problem until Monday. Driving back from SC on I77 N, my check engine light came on and I stopped at an Autozone in Statesville NC to find that a P2015 fault was to blame. Apparently it is:
DTC Description:
P2015 (2968) Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor/Switch Circuit Range/Performance Sporadic
Technical Background:
- Intake manifold tumble flaps sporadically stick.
- Engine performance is not affected.
At any rate, I drove to the bank this afternoon 2 mi +/- and upon parking at the ATM, the idle went way low (under 1000) and then started creeping higher to about 3K. I raced the engine a couple times then it began starting at 1200, going to about 2000 and then back to 1200. Over and over. It's hard for me not to think these two things were related, except the check engine light was off from Tuesday to today. When the idle was roughest today (almost stalling) - the check engine light began to blink. Then it was steady for the 2 mile drive back and under normal driving, I can't tell anything's wrong.
I have a 2009 Corolla 1.8 with 18,000 miles on it. My wife mainly drives it, today after getting it washed, I was driving and noticed a very faint noise from the engine compartment. Seems to be coming from the passenger front. The sound is something like grr grr grr.... I made sure it's not the wheels by putting the car in neutral and giving it gas which made the sound audible (I can also hear it while idling).
I had my wife sit in the car with me, and she couldn't hear anything, but I can, so I'm afraid when I go to the dealer he will say the same "I can't replicate the noise". What it can be?
So following my everlasting bad luck with car problems...I've been noticing a very rough idle in my 2010 Corolla. It has 84k miles. It's only occasionally, not even every time that I'm idling. When I am stopped at a red light though, it'll start to shake for a few seconds, and then it kind of sounds like something "cleared" through something and then it idles fine. This will happen a few times until I start to accelerate again. It does not occur when I'm in neutral, and isn't as strong when I'm in park but it is kind of still there.
I've also been noticing a high pitched whine when I am accelerating at a constant speed. It's there when I am speeding up, then it gets worse as I stay at one speed. It does also make a bit of a "bum bumbum" sound (best way I can put it.) I went to an auto shop and they drove it around for a few minutes and said I need two new tires on the front. The tires, appearance wise, are fine though and they agreed to that. I took it to Discount Tire for a second opinion, they said the tires looked fine and wouldn't sell me new ones. They did say that from what I described it sounds like bad wheel bearings. Took it in, filled them up with air and balanced them. The sounds are still there.
After looking at videos, my car doesn't sound the same as ones with bad wheel bearings. It does not make any noise when turning. I would notice, since I JUST had both the front CV axles replaced. I'm not sure if maybe both of these are related at all. I still need to bring my Corolla in to have some sort of cover replaced that is leaking oil (forget what it's called) that I have to pay a $100 deductible on at my Toyota dealership. I'm not very car savvy and hate going into an auto shop, especially as a girl, not knowing what I need exactly.
I have a 2004 Prius that I bought 8 months ago, my Prius has 110k miles on it and I haven't done any maintenance since I bought the car , I have learned recently about the inspection mode , so I used the inspection mode to record the noise of the car while idling .It sounds like a diesel to me.
View 7 RepliesJust picked up my 2004 Prius from the Toyota dealer body shop. The driver's side was scraped by someone who wanted to be in my lane. Fortunately, we were only going 35 mph. The rear door skin had to be replaced, and most of the side had to be prepped and painted. There are a few silly mistakes: they forgot to replace the driver's door plug, forgot to replace a lower clip, and smudged a tiny area new paint on the bumper. I brought that to their attention and they are going to take care of it... they have to order the plug and clip.
However, as soon as that conversation was complete, it was time for them to close shop. I sat in my Prius, started it, and the check engine light was on. Wasn't on when I dropped it off for the repairs. Also, on the way home, I noticed the engine wasn't turning off when I came to a complete stop (even though the animation says it was off). At idle, the engine is also rough. Looked at the charge bars, and well, there were only two bars showing.
I thought perhaps, though it's not done this before without the animation screen showing it, the engine was on merely to recharge the traction battery. On the way home, the traction battery returned to full charge (green), but the engine still was not turning off when the vehicle was at a complete stop... not was it turning off when coasting... and when arriving home, even with the car in park... and still idling rough. All the while, the animation on the screen is indicating the engine should be off.
When I replaced the traction battery three years ago, I also replaced the 12v with an yellow top Optima. I wouldn't think the Optima is already going bad. I also do not believe in coincidence. I wonder if perhaps some bad fumes have tainted the MAF, or who knows.
Well I drove the wife to work in her Prius this morning. I noticed in heavy stop go traffic, the engine was idling more than normal. Normally the EV light is on when I am stationary ( idle) in traffic, but for some reason today almost more than 70% of the stop go traffic the RPM was felt via the brake pedal and EV light was off, but the battery had at least 3 bars or more I think.
The load on the vehicle was the usual, AC on at 65 in ECO mode and radio. I guess this question might be more a hybrid newbie question than anything else. So, just curious what "drives" the vehicle to be in EV mode when stationary in traffic or in my case earlier this morning what prevented it?
I recently got an oil change at EZ Lube and since then my engine seems to be running a little harder. You can feel it vibrating more than normal while idling and when stopped at a light when it turns off, it REALY turns off like it's choking out and sort of kicks the whole car a bit when it shuts off.
I just switched the air filter just in case as it seem similar to my old car that would die if the carburetor wasn't bringing in enough air, but I'm not as familiar with fuel injected engines. Could it be the fuel filter or other engine issue?
I changed timing belt and water pump DIY back in Oct 2015. Ever since then, I get rough idling (car kind of vibrate and engine kind of struggling) after warm start (no problem with cold starts, it did stall once after the warm start).
Two days ago, I got a P0000 code, I thought it was due to low oil (happened before, I topped off oil 2500 miles ago), so I changed oil and filter. No problem yesterday, but today on my way to work. I got the p0000 code again.