Prius (Gen 2) :: 2009 Cannot Enter To EV Mode / Battery Charges And Discharges Faster
Nov 21, 2013
Have 1000 miles left on the 150K CA battery on my 2009.
First, I can no longer enter EV mode with the ev mode. It always says cannot change into ev mode right now. In the past, that only occurred during the warm up cycles. Now it always says that regardless except if I try when first powering on before the engine starts. In that case, when it was working, it would switch over and the MFD would change to show the battery. Now nothing and the engine always starts.
Also, the battery charges and discharges much faster than it used to. I can barely get a 1/4 in stealth (feathering the throttle to keep the ICE from kicking on) without it going from 8 bars down to 2.
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I have a 2009 Prius with an Enginer 4kwh battery pack. I know that the Prius' programming has a number of parameters that control when it will enter EV mode.
The display says "Cannot enter EV mode now" when engaging my Coastal EV mode switch at times when I believe it should be able to enter EV mode. Here are the conditions from a recent trip:
-Stopped at a light
-The ICE not running
-Car fully warmed up (just drove 10 miles)
-AC off
-Outside air temp 62 degrees
-Battery showing green bars with the top bar white
If I enter EV mode when the car is started cold then it works fine. Once I've driven it a while I can't get it to return to EV mode reliably.
The last time I spoke with my local Toyota dealer they said that because the 2009 American Prius was not shipped with an EV mode switch they would not support that mode.
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My car has been in the toyota shop all day they cant figure out why it wont charge up fully. Car has 350k on it; traction battery replaced 100k ago--inverter replaced has 60 k on it. Cars battery will fully charge for about 800 miles and then start charging only half way, transmission only has about 80k on it.
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My 2011 Prius does not have an MFD since mine is the standard model. I tried to find a way to monitor the 12V battery by searching the forum but could not find a way to enter maintenance mode without the MFD. How to put my Prius on maintenance mode?
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New BMW x5 only charges the battery while braking, eleccoasting. So it uses the vehicles momentum to drive motor which is connected to alt of course to generelect which is stored in the battery. It can gain approx 3% in fuel economy using this process. So does voltage readout fluctuate or read lower while stopped at light? I bet the volt gauge is adjusted by computer so driver does not see up/down swings.
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I've read several posts that suggest the EV mode is mostly useless. I disagree. I've noticed that it's useful in gaining speed faster without the ICE, when taking off from a stop. Especially if I'm in traffic and I don't want to annoy drivers behind me.
I've noticed that conditions have to be met in order to do this, such as engine warmed up etc. but I find it very useful, and I am seeing improved MPG when doing this. I've had my 2013 PRius v Two for almost a month now.
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I've noticed that my battery only charges to 6 out of the 8 bars and have never gotten it to go higher. How to get the battery to fully charge?
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I have an 07 Prius with 90Kmi (bought new) which now loses power while climbing sections of mtn passes. Battery meter shows 1 purple bar and cannot go faster than 50mph. No warning lights or fault codes. Never an issue before & intermittently happens around town. 4 dealer visits and extended tests with TMC field techs have allowed them to duplicate the problem at least twice. Interestingly Toyota doesn't know what or how to fix this.
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I purchased a used toyota camry 2006 2.4 LE. They key fob doesn't work since I got it, so I thought maybe the key fob battery is dead or the key fob itself is damaged. I searched for how to program they key fob and found some instructions, but it doesn't work. I can't get the car to enter the programming mode for the key fob(it should lock and unlock automatically as tutorials point out). Where to start tackling this problem?
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I have a 200 GMC Jimmy SLE and I am trying to program the new FOD key for it. I followed the listed instructions here [URL] .... and here [URL] ..... but it will not enter program mode.
So, is there another method to try to get it into program mode? I have looked here and else but the only other instructions has to do with pre 2000 series blazers.
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I have a new keyfob for my wife's 2000 X, and I'm trying to program it. The procedure is simple, right? Get in the truck, put the key in the ignition, lock the doors, unlock the doors, then cycle it to the run position (back of off), 8 times -- staying in "run" the eighth time.
I've done this OVER and OVER after my wife said it wouldn't work for her. The problem is that when you hit run the 8th time, the locks should cycle, indicating that it is ready to program the remote. The problem is the locks never cycle.
I also tried the same procedure without the locking and unlocking step prior to turning the key. And I also tried it by locking and unlocking prior to inserting the key.
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When I bought that '99 F-250 SuperDuty, it only came with one key and one keyfob. So, I had another key made (no chip in key, btw!) and ordered 2 more keyfobs.
I've followed the instructions to the letter. I cannot get the truck to go into 'program mode' to program the new keyfobs.
I've also ordered (and received) new door locks, ignition 'lock', since the key to start the truck doesn't work in the doors. Strange.
Anyway, the original owner said that he had to have the ignition 'lock' replaced and he lost the door keys.
What is the proper way to get this truck into 'program mode' so that I can program all 3 keyfobs?
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I have a 2009 Ford Focus. The ignition key can not enter the steering column cylinders unless the key is jiggled with a far amount of pushing. I took the car to the dealership in the late Fall and they replaced the ignition cylinder. This worked fine until Spring when the outside temperature got above 75 F.
I have tried using the extra key and it also will not be permitted to enter the cylinder except with a great amount of key jiggling. This problem only occurs when it is above 75 F, it is not a problem for 6 months of the year; but, I am concerned that sometime I won't be able to get the car started.
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How long should 12V battery last in accessory mode?
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Every once and awhile when I take off in the c the car drains the battery like it gets stuck in ev mode. The ev light will be off and the ice will be running but from a dead stop take off, the instant Mpg will read between 50 and 75 Mpg till it drains the battery gauge .
After the drain it works normal charges the drained battery and might not happen again for a couple of hours or a month there is no time period it happens.
Does this sound like a normal hybrid behavior? That's what I thought at first but because of the inconsistency of the behavior.
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After 2 days of not using my Prius V, the 12v battery was dead. I couldn't figure out what I accidentally left on. I jumped it following the instructions in the manual but right after, it went into EV mode and then it required to be jumped again. I finally got the engine revving enough that it stayed on. I had never really listened to the engine rev before, but while revving it sounded higher pitched and tinny as compared to my old 6 cylinder, German car.
Is this higher pitched, tinny, electric sounding revving sound normal?
Is there anything to worry about after jumping the car?
Is there a way to see the charge on the battery? (In my old car if you hit specific buttons when starting you could enter a diagnostic mode where you could see many readings, live the current battery voltage. It would also be great if the tire pressure reading could be accessed this way.)
Also is it possible to use the hybrid battery to jump the car?
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I've been using the EV mode - the EV portion of the curve without pushing the EV button - to run around town and to maintain speed once I've accelerated to traffic speed. It really boosts the mpg numbers and I'm able to get 55-60mpg on my 47mi. Roundtrip mostly highway commutes (hills included). Without the running in EV it's probably 42-48mpg.
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I've been driving a bit different to try and get some more mpg. I will pulse up to about 45 then let off till ev kicks in and keep the bar right at the verge of going into ice. I can usually cruise at 40 mpg doing this on flat roads while only using the battery. Although if I'm able to do this ev mode for a long distance my battery runs down then the ice kicks in even with the bar below the ice line.
I'm still only getting 50-51 indicated mpg this way but much better than the 42mpg I got just driving it... My route has some hill and my tires are no lrr so I'm think that's has some to do with my low mpg.
Question is does driving 40 mph in ev mode till battery runs dead then recharge with ice just to run battery down again coasting with ev do any harm to the battery?
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I have a problem I can't figure out. 06 Prius with 105k.
Current codes: P3000, P3020, C1259, C1310, C1378
Car will run and drive but is in limp mode
HV battery fan is at full blast, but charge does not fluctuate
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Wondering if there is another factor involved here...such as the wrong gauge. I'm routinely seeing battery temps in the mid to low 90s even when it is pretty warm weather and I am in EV. Is this possible? On my old Gen3 even when I use the battery just a little bit on warm days it would go over 110. Does the lithium chemistry just keep it that much cooler? Or does the cooling system keep it that much cooler? Or both? What are other people seeing for battery temps?
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Hard to put it all in a title. I have 149K miles on our 2009. The warranty expires in 1000 miles. I've noticed recently that I can no longer engage the ev mode with the ev mod. I always get a "cannot change into eve mode" message on the MFD. It used to be that I could do it before the engine started or after all warm up cycles were complete.
Now, when first powering on, ev mode won't engage before engine start and there is no MFD message. After warm up is complete, the message appears on the MFD whenever I try to change to EV mode.
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