Prius (Gen 2) :: 2008 - Dome Lights On With Dead Battery
Dec 12, 2012
Prius, 08, smart key. Dead on Sunday am, nothing works. Put trickle on the underhood positive and neg to body bolt. Got enough juice to open rear hatch (and dome light comes on ).
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Prius, 08, smart key.Dead on Sunday am --- nothing works. Not even with key in slot. Put trickle charge on the underhood postive and neg to body bolt. Got enough juice to open rear hatch (and dome light comes on )
Replaced with toyota battery. Neg cable took off first, then pushed up out of the way behind carpet.
Still dead. Still nothing. Checked both batteries at Autozone. 94 and 100% --- wasn't battery in the first place. Checked clear window fusible link on top of pos post --- still good. Can get locks and lights to work with trickle charge, but NOTHING if disconnected.
Now what?
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Second dead battery in 2 years. ??? Car never sits for longer than 12 hours and no internal lights on. I have a III with Sunroof.
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I went to open the hatch this afternoon to see if my new painting would fit so I could take it to the frame shop, and the hatch would not open. Nor would the door-unlock button work. The fob wouldn't open it either. Then I realized no dash lights were on, and the car would not start. I thought there was supposed to be a way to open the hatch from the inside, but I crawled into the back and could not find it.
So the 12-v battery was dead.
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2007 Prius with 88K miles.
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On a 1999 Excursion with a v10. I've got a strange problem. When the truck is left overnight, the battery is dead. Doing some testing, the is a serious draw through the dome light circuit that controls the Gem and the Tail Lights. If I pull that fuse each night, then the battery is fine. But I can't leave that fuse out, as the shifter interlock switch is disabled by this fuse. All the tail lights seem to work fine.
Dome lights do not come on. I've tested the bulbs. They're good. There is now power it seems to the dome light sockets. The door ajar light works, so I'm guessing all the switches are good.
I also have no power windows working. There is no 12v to the switch. But I heard about the Gem module as well. So I'm not sure if the Gem controls if there should be 12v to the switch all the time.
I pulled out the Gem. It looks good. No sign of corrosion or water.
Any thoughts on what to look for or how to troubleshoot this? Is there a way to test a Gem? Would a bad Gem cause the battery draw down?
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I left my hazard lights on for 3 hours. Outdoor temp is 25 F
Car will not power up, no dash controls illuminate when fob is inserted and start button pressed.
Can I rectify this problem by jumping the accessory battery with a 12V power pack make to just art ordinary cars.
Can it be main battery that is the problem. It is the original 12 V battery.
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I have had my '08 Prius for 3 years and have little to no problems with it. This morning I jumped in to go to work and the entire dash lit up and then faded out and died. The only lights still on is the check engine light, Airbag light and the little green light on the Park button. The worst part is now I can not completely shut it down. I am wondering if it is just a dead battery or if this is something bigger. If it is a dead battery I am baffled at how it could be. I have AAA coming to jump it and I hope that is all it is. Sound familiar?
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i have a 2000 ex,6.8 4x4.every now and then the dome light stays on.theres also a problem where theres a buzzing sound coming under dash while driving and makes the dome light flicker.these are seprate problems.lol.when the buzzing sound is present ,it stops when i open the door,running or not.but starts up again when i close it,even happens occasionaly when ignition is off and no key in ignition.electrical problems are my worst night mare!!!!!!!! My battery is dead in the morning when this is happening .oh yea,and the o.d.light flashes occasionaly as well.im totally lost.
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Recently while I was stupidly upgrading one of my dome lights while it was on (door open and yes stupid) I shorted it and blew the fuse. Of course jump in the drivers seat and go buy another fuse. To my amazement the car was dead. No power up starting, no door locks no fob operation or anything. The flashers and brake lights and horn worked fine and that was it.
What a great single point immobilizer!
Problem is you will lose clock, settings like reverse beep off, mpg, etc. I was dead in the water until I remembered in the engine fuse box there is a spare 15a fuse (and the fuse puller). The dome light fuse is there as well. Replaced the dome light fuse and all is well. Drove off like I had saved the world. Very strange. Looking at the wiring the junction block that the dome light fuse feeds also feeds LOTS of other areas of the car including the ECU.
Want to keep your kids from driving the car. Forget taking the keys. Pull the dome light fuse.
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2002 Exc, 7.3L TD, Some one broke into the truck last week by jaming a screwdriver into the door key lock. Tried to pull the ignition out but failed. Pulled the A/V system out, cutting wires and such. So the dealer (insurance covered it ) installed the new door lock and said nothing is wrong with the ignition. But now the dome lights and running board lights come on at random and kill the batteries.
Could it be the ignition? Or something inside the driver's door? The batteries are brand new.
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If my traction battery has plenty of 'juice' in it, and my 12v battery is dead....is there any way to 'jump' the 12 volt battery with the traction battery to get the car started?
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2004 F-150. Today, I noticed the map/dome lights wouldn't turn off no matter what I did with the switch. Also noticed the cargo lights were on as well. Pulled fuse #24 (appears to be good) and that seemed to fix the problem: lights are now able to be controlled by the switch. When I reinstall fuse #24, same problem. Also, battery seemed to be drained and the radio pre-sets were gone. Am I right in suspecting the battery saver relay? If so, which relay is it and can I replace it myself or is it factory soldered?
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I stored my car with a friend for a few months and of course he let it sit too long. He had to do a running start and now the dash lights are a penalty. I'm still out of town, but I am getting on a airplane right now to come home and be with my R again. He said the car was cutting of at stop lights, I'm sure he drove it cold.
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I have had the dead battery problem as well as the high / low shifter lights flash on and off. I also had a warning message called "workshop system fault" or something like that.
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I have a Canadian spec TDI highline trim with automatic headlights. I generally do not lock it when I park in my garage at home. Last night I parked it and came out this morning to see that the running lights, but not the headlights, were on. The battery was basically dead and I had to boost it to get going.
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I have a 95 Mazda protege. The battery went dead from leaving the lights on. We jumped it and everything was ok. Drove around, shut it off and it started again, no problem. The next day the car wouldn't start. Had dash lights, and it clicked but this time there is a high pitched noise. It is not an engine noise. I jumped it, it started right up. Tested the alternator, its putting out 14 volts. I could not find the source of the noise. I checked that all doors were closed and that sort of thing. I shut car off to see what would happen, the tone of the noise changed but car hadn't built up enough charge to re start.
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So I went out to start my truck today after setting for 2 weeks and nothing. (2008 F150 XLT 4.6 31k miles) bought may 08. Anyway no lights or anything, battery was dead as a doorknob. I was just wondering if my battery was on its way out or if I have other problems. Oh and something else I couldn't get it out of park (column shift) until I hooked a battery charger to it. I was going to pull it out of the barn to jump it off but couldn't get out of park.
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I've just returned from a late-night walk, where I discovered I'd left on the dome (interior ceiling) light in my 20-year-old car (soon to be replaced by a Prius c Two!) about a half-hour previously. I thought: if I hadn't noticed my mistake, tomorrow morning the battery would probably be dead!
Could this happen with a Prius c? Or is there a sensor that automatically douses any interior light(s) after, say, 15 minutes?
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I have a 2007 Ford F-150 SuperCrew Lariat (with Sunroof) that the Front Interior Dome Lights are not working in. I mention the Sunroof because there is a switch to operate the sunroof in the same panel as the front dome lights. The Sunroof switch works just fine though.
However, the back dome light does work. I would've thought these were on the same line but my thinking is probably wrong. So far I've pulled the front panel where the dome lights are located and checked the bulbs. The filaments are not broken at all and the bulbs seem to be good. I then went hunting for the Fuse box and looked through the user manual to see which fuse corresponds to those front lights. However, I've been unable to determine which fuse it is.
So I guess the questions I have are:
1.) Why the front dome lights would NOT be working and the rear dome lights are? Are these not on the same line?
2.) Which fuse corresponds to the front dome lights?
3.) What relay corresponds to the front dome lights?
4.) Do I need to disconnect the battery before messing with any of these fuses or relays?
Troubleshooting steps at this point?
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I have locked my keys in truck and the battery is dead. How do I get either the door or the hood open. 2005 super crew king ranch....
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