Prius (Gen 2) :: 2008 Car Decelerating With Idle / Sputter After Robotic Tunnel Car Wash
Feb 19, 2016
I took my 2008 Prius through a very aggressive robotic tunnel car wash and as soon as I left the car and drove off I noticed that the car was idling very rough. It has been continuing to do so for the past three days. Every time I drive the car, even if I'm not accelerating and the car is just decelerating, the car seems to have a very rough idle/Shake/sputter to it. It idles rough, it decelerates rough when foot off the gas pedal , and it's making a lot more noise than usual.
It used to decelerate quietly before the car wash. And this car wash was wack, like hyper pressurized. I mean when it was spraying down the windows it felt like the windshield was being shot. I just bought this car a few months ago.
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I had my headlights on last night and while I was driving through a few small tunnels my dashboard and Navigation lights went so dim....basically black.....I could barely see anything on them. What is this and how can I fix it?
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I have a 2008 Mazda 3, and I have been bringing it to the same car wash for about a year now. It's the kind where the guys take it, while I sit in the lil' cafe and read. Eventually they drive it around front, wipe it down, clean the inside and hand it over. The last two times, the car needed to be jump started, because the battery would not start after the wash. The manager assured me this was normal, but the other guys at the car wash always seem surprised. Should I be thinking about getting a new battery? Is this really normal?
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My friend had his 2008 F150 Limited washed and they apparently decided to pressure wash the engine.
Now the check engine light is on, and it runs like crap. At least yesterday, today it won't even start.
What is broken? The codes said something about the throttle body?
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What is this noise? Video included... [URL]... This noise comes up after the engine gets warmed up and only when the car is decelerating or idle. That is, as soon as I take my foot of the gas pedal the car starts making this noise and it is very loud. No error codes.
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I took my Prius Two to its first car wash today, afterwards, the air flow from the vents became minimal, almost non-existent. How could this be? The car is barely two months old. Prior to the car wash, I had the AC and air blasting to the highest, I didn't change any fan settings, and now there's barely any air coming out. I can hear the fans churning and running, but there's no air!!! Do I take it to the dealer?
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So I obviously checked the fluid levels and added plenty to make sure its not empty.. I don't know if there is some issue with a pump that needs to be warmed up first, or some ice buildup on the nozzles (obviously I didn't see any).
After driving for about 20 minutes it started spraying just fine. Although it doesn't seem to spray very well in the rear window. I'm wondering if it is just the cold temperatures (was around 0-5 at night) or if there is another issue.
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Car came out of the car wash and when I turned it on it started to beep rapidly and brake light came on. I moved the car but brakes were not working. I had to get the car towed. First time I ever encountered the problem.
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Took my car to one of those no-touch car washes and after I pulled out the sat radio would come in and out but would not come in clear. I switched to FM and it was full of static. I parked the car in our garage and about 30 minutes later I checked it again and it was working.
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Have read threads on car wash issues but have only had the dreaded red triangle flash with no problems as a result. Tuesday, however, got ALL the lights on and now car will not go past warm up phase and only goes in neutral or park. Lights come on, clock reads correct time, and radio works. Tried a jump to aux battery, a reset of the main hybrid battery and finally had my baby towed to the local dealer. 2 days later they are telling me the transmission needs to be replaced. They say I have an irreparable short in the transmission and the replacement is $5000. With no issues with transmission and only two bars magenta in color on the battery level showing is this a transmission issue or a battery issue. Can't say I have had great luck with the local dealer on previous maintenance so my confidence is not high. Love my girl but unsure whether the car is worth this repair at 8 years old and 183,000 on the odometer.
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I took my 2016 Prius 3 through a brushless car wash this afternoon, and about halfway through, the warning light came on and the car displayed "Hybrid System Malfunction // Visit Your Dealer". The car seemed to drive normally from there back to home, so the system is evidently still working - just getting the message on the screen every few seconds.
Given that it happened while I was in the car wash, I'm wondering if it's just that some water got under the hood and tripped a sensor or something. The car was not idling at the time.
I had my 5K service appointment scheduled for tomorrow anyway, but now the dealer wants to have the car there all day. They're giving me a loaner, so that's nice. Still, a little concerning that this is happening so soon after I bought the thing.
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2005 VW Tuareg, 67,000 miles. Engine sputtering and bucking - but only under specific circumstance. If I drive the car over 40 mph for even a short distance and then turn the engine off, the car will start back up normally the next time I start it. But if I were to move the car, say, from the driveway to the street then turn the engine off, the next time I start it, the engine would sputter and buck at idle. It would also buck when I put it in gear and run roughly until I hit above 40 mph, then it would smooth out. Thus, the problem only presents itself if the engine is turned on and the car not allowed to run above 40 mph before it is turned off again. The engine light is on, and the dealership says it's cam adjusters not working right,i.e., meaning BIG $$ to fix. Does that sound plausible?
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I washed the car yesterday and the temperature reading on the AC display was reading really low a couple of hours after washing (outside temp 95, reading 79). it stayed that way for 20 minutes then only went up 3 degrees.
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So I washed the car. All four stems had caps on them. I decide to check the pressure, a few hours after the wash. Took the stem caps off, and they all looked dry inside. The inside of the valve stems did not look wet at all. Pressed my tire gauge onto the stem out came water. From all four of them.
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Basically, I wash the car myself. I wash with a soft spongy brush and exterior car wash fluid.
Now at the bottom areas (near the skirts and just lower bumper) and also some lower part of the doors, I notice stains that look brown in color and they don't disappear by me just using the spongy cleaner. It got to a point where I used my nail on the greasy bugger (the spots are small but annoying looking, barely a millimeter in diameter), and it spreads and becomes a light brown in color. I have to use my nails to get these buggers out and at some times there's tons of them based on the weather and the driving conditions.
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2006 Sonata V6 with 98K miles. The car has developed a rough idle, sputter/lurch while in gear, but not park or neutral. No CEL/codes. Have already replaced the spark plugs (OE), throttle body/FI cleaned, MAF cleaned, new air filter, coil packs OK... Mechanic said no vac leaks, FI spray pattern good, good fuel pressure, etc. Vibration dampener looks ok, no separation or wobble. Another post mentioned a power steering pressure sensor, which I will have checked, but the mechanic is at a loss.
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I just picked up this 2005 Elantra last month. She runs GREAT - except after filling. Then she will occasionally sputter or sometimes stall during idle. Otherwise, if tank is below 3/4 (approximately), she runs fine.
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As listed above I own a 98 Volkswagen Passat. It seems to run just fine for the most part, but if I push on the gas and let off I notice a slight sputter. The RPM's will drop to about 800RPM up to 1000RPM and back down again and it will eventually stabilize and idle fine. My only guess that I have so far that I read on a post somewhere is that the EGR Valve tends to get gunked up and stick. I will try to clean that off.
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We've owned this 2002 Mazda Tribute v6 for six years. Recently, the car has become somewhat dangerous to drive. While driving down the road at any speed, releasing the throttle does not result in the engine decelerating or returning to idle. Instead, it continues to hold the speed steady for 3-5 seconds before the RPMs drop. At lower speeds (~5mph or so) the car will even accelerate a bit, which can be a problem in tight parking situations. At higher speeds (e.g. on the freeway) releasing the throttle has no effect for a few seconds (ie it does not decelerate), which can be very surprising if you're responding to suddenly slowing traffic. The brakes can, of course, overpower the engine, but you do have to push harder to get the same braking effect as if you were not fighting against the engine. Releasing the throttle and shifting into neutral while driving causes the engine to rev quite high (3,000rpm) for the same 3-5 seconds before dropping to a steady idle, but it does allow you to brake normally. Shifting back into Drive while in motion but not touching the throttle causes the engine to decelerate the car normally. Touch the gas even briefly, though, and the engine will once again surge.
Oh, and turning the steering wheel from side to side, as you might do while parking, also causes the engine to surge, though not as much as it does when I touch the gas pedal. Also, I've disconnected the throttle and cruise control cables and worked the throttle plate by hand. Doing so causes the RPM to rise, as you expect, but it does not immediately return to idle when the throttle plate snaps shut. Instead, the RPMs stay around 12~1500 for 3-5 seconds before it drops to idle.
Over the years, I've replaced the throttle position sensor, idle air control valve, and other normal maintenance items. I used a meter to troubleshoot the IAC and TPS and used propane to look for vacuum leaks, but everything is within spec. There are recall notices related to unintended acceleration for these vehicles, but those are reportedly caused by interference between the engine cover and cruise control. I do my own maintenance and don't like engine covers, so I removed the cover from this car shortly after buying it; the engine cover cannot be causing this problem. I have disconnected the battery for an hour to reset the computer, but that has no effect. There are no trouble codes that show up on a OBD-II scanner, and the CEL is not illuminated. There are many internet reports of this problem, but thus far I've found none that indicate a solution.
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I drive a 2007 Ford Focus and when the fuel level gets to half a tank the car tries to die, and quite often does, when making a left turn. About 1% of the time it will do it when making a right hand turn. It will also sputter and die when running it on idle for a few min. It first started doign this at 1/4 tank but has gotten to where it will do it at 1/2 now.
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I have a 2000 3.0l ranger. I have been battling an ignition problem. every time the engine is cold it runs terrible like only 3 or 4 cylinders running terrible. if u put a timing light on the wires the pulse comes and goes on random wires. and when it quits that it has a random sputter at idle and misses around 4k when u get into the throttle ...
I have replaced plugs twice and the coil with motorcraft parts and the wires are new autolites. I have also replaced the thermostat and fan clutch it was getting hot in the middle of this other issue ...
Every time I replace something it runs great for a few days then back to running terrible again. am I missing something else do I need to look at a computer or map or tps sensors, or something like that ...
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