Prius (Gen 2) :: 2007 Key Fob Went Wet
Mar 29, 2014
Rule one of key fobs: Never run them through the washer! they are never that dirty. Although if one contemplates the dirt factor of money, fobs can't be that far behind. The odds of all these years of electronic hardware in the pockets finally caught up to me. It happened.
Now my fob has lost its mind. It is randomly issuing "lock the doors" commands to the car, which makes it entertaining to travel with. Just for fun there are random intervals of behaving itself. This winter I leashed my fob in my parka. Couldn't risk losing that thing out in the fields.
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I have an 07 prius with 105k miles. It had no warning lights on and drives great with 1 exception. The heat gets cold at idle, it works great as soon as i drive or if the ICE starts to charge the battery. I believe the problem was the ICE not coming on to heat it back up, it would only come on if the battery drops not if the air temp drops.
Then my mechanic replaced the pump on the coolant heat storage tank and it made no difference so he put the old one back on. However since then the ICE will occasionally kick on for heat even if the battery is charged (like it should be) but not frequently enough and sometimes not at all.
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I have an 07 Prius great car I drive 92 miles/day round trip to work and back home everyday. I bought my Prius with 98k miles and it would get 42 to 45 MPG all the time.
I now have 172-k on it and it is still running great, but about 4 or 5 months it dropped to 36 to 38 mpg. I did the normal things, changed the plugs, air filter, checked tire pressure. No change in mpg. I thought it must be the HV battery. Because sometimes when I start it in the mornings the MFD only has the 2 pink or red bars showing but builds up to green within the first about 20 miles of driving.
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2007 Prius has Kumho Solus KR21(all four) tires installed 2 years ago - about 3 weeks ago had the tires rotated as well since they had about 5K on them.
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I have a 2007 Prius/70,000 miles and live in NY. The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (Check Engine Light) came on back in May when I was visiting Texas and I stopped to have the code read and got a P0420 code - possible emission problem. As I was far from home I took a day to think about what I should do and by the next evening the light had shut off. Driving back to NY the following week the light came on again about 150 miles from home. Once again within a few days it had shut off. End of June I had the same thing happen - this time I took it to a Auto Part store and had them read the codes again. The guy there told me the only thing that showed up was some kind of emission error. Again within a few days the light went off. Just yesterday (August now) the light came on again. I've resisted taking it to the dealer because I know they will charge me $100+ just to plug it in and tell me what I partly already know. I've been reading up the P0420 code online however still have a few questions.
A. Is it normal for this code to go on and off repeatedly without me really doing anything?
B. Is there any way to figure out what the specific issue is without taking it to Toyota?
C. If it is the catalytic converter would I be covered under the Federal Emission Warranty? - which from what I've read is 8 years/80,000 miles?
The following is what the initial code printout read:
Troubleshooting P0420
OEM Brand: Domestic
Definition
Catalyst efficiency low-bank 1
Explanation
The oxygen sensors monitor the Catalytic Converters ability to store oxygen.
Probable cause
1. Catalytic converter defective (failure possibly due to # 2, 3, or 4)
2. Engine misfire or running condition
3. large vacuum leak
4. Engine oil leakage into exhaust-valve guide seals, piston rings
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My 2005 Prius with 86K miles regularly got 48 around town and 49 to 53 on long trips. I sold it to my son and his wife, they are also getting the same mileage. I bought the 2007 touring used with 41K miles and have never gotten over 41 mpg highway, and around town is 38 to 39 mpg.
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My 2007 with 155,000 mi started making a strange noise - It is also burning oil. I am pretty sure it is not valves - it sounds like hanging silverware clanking together in the wind. The sound might be a bad water pump or a loose timing chain. That is what I would picture those sounding like. It would seem like the water pump is pretty easy to replace.
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I have a 2007 Prius with regular (non HID) headlights. I have probably replaced them 10 times since I bought the car new. Has it been determine what the fix is so they don't keep burning out?
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My sister recently bought a 2007 Prius Package 6 with HID's. Her headlights will turn on for about 2-3 minutes then one will go out and then both will go out. If you turn off the headlights and turn them back on then they will both turn on again but only for a few minutes. What this can be? I figured it's not the bulbs since once they go out, they shouldn't come back on but I could be wrong.
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We have a garden variety 2007 basic Prius. That description will tell you that I'm no Mechanic. The mileage was between 40 and 43 MPG for years. Now it has suddenly dropped to 33 and 35. The average temp here in Florida is fairly consistent at above 60 F, so that is not it. Oil changed at the dealer, and not overfilled. Tires at the right pressure. Worn to perhaps 50% of their avg tread life. Also, I had the 12 Volt battery replaced at the dealer a few months ago, and no change. Is there a way to check?
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My 2007 Prius 4h with about 157k miles took a dump on Tuesday. My son was waiting for me in the car with both the air and the radio running on full blast. He'd pushed the power button twice (not sure if that matters) to get the air to run cold. After 20 minutes he turned it off. When I got back to the car, I push the power button and get a message stating "the P lock is not engaged" and to park on level ground, which I already was. I push the power button again start the car and all of the warning lights lit up, but the car didn't start. I push the power button and the warning lights would not go off. I had to push it a couple more times before they finally faded off. I tried to turn the car on again, same thing. No power. I lower the windows and they barely move. Eventually the car wouldn't respond at all. I had three different tow truck guys (they kept sending the wrong kind of truck) try to jump it.
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I've got a 2007 Prius (Touring Edition) that has almost exactly 150,000 miles now. It's had a few issues (leaking water pump, bad HID bulbs constantly...), but those were nothing I haven't been able to fix myself. Moving forward...my car is turning at least all of it's electronics on by itself.
I first noticed an issue when randomly I would come out and it would be dead. So I'd jump it, and it would do fine for a while. Over the past two weeks though, it's been happening a lot. Until 3 times now I've walked by it and the radio was loudly blasting the default station. It's powered up, A/C on, radio on loudly to a default station, and all the stations on the radio and clock are reset.
Before I get told I'm not turning it off properly...I am. I have been insanely thorough on my procedures after the first time, and I actually make sure all lights are off, radio is off (even just the power of the radio), and A/C is off BEFORE I go through the proper procedure of turning it off and then locking it with my key from the outside. I even put my key on the hanger and go out and check that it's locked and off after doing this.
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I have a 2007 prius. I parked it for 4 months and when I came back it wont start and there's a big red triangle and say 2007 prius transmission problem p lock mechanism. I have replaced the small auxiliary battery brand new but having the same problem wont start.
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My 2010 Prius just turned 11,000 miles. Recently with colder weather it has become a rattle machine. Last winter it did not rattle at all. I then rode in my friends 2007 with 115,000 miles on it and it was still solid and tight on the same cold weather day. Did the Gen II have better build quality with fewer rattles?
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I just purchased a 2007 w/ Nav and evidently the last owner only had one key/key fob so I ordered another from the Toyota Dealership. I took the car today to have it programmed and to make a long story short, they were not able to program the key.
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I bought my 2007 with almost 100K miles on it back in November. It's been a great car, and I had various maintenance done to it and did some myself. Looks like there's a problem with the A/C -- it's just not cooling the air. Yesterday was the first day in the sixties here in NJ, and the A/C just wasn't what an A/C is supposed to do.
The car was maintained at a dealership exclusively. Here's the entry about the A/C:
05/29/2012 93,478 AIR COND. INSPECT
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My 2007 Prius wont unlock with clicking the unlock on my keys, or manually unlocking (it turns but does not unlock). I just took it for service 2 weeks ago and its been fine. I drove it as recently as yesterday no problem. I have both sets of keys. it just seems completely unresponsive.
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Recently I've been noticing that shortly after starting up and driving away, my battery indicator on the console is reading at half-charged. It doesn't seem to be all the time, but I've been noticing it more and more lately. This morning in particular, as I was about a couple blocks away, I noticed that the indicator was only reading 2 purple bars. I drove around a bit extra than I needed to, and the battery did get up to fully charged.
Are my batteries dying? Do I need to be concerned, or am I being paranoid?
2007 Prius 105K miles. I purchased it just over 2 months ago with just under 100K miles.
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My 07 prius makes REALLY LOUD TIRE NOISES. It sounds like I have mud-terrain tires on my car. I know I need a alignment because the tires are cupping. Would this cure the irregular tire noise?
The tires are not the stock Goodyear Integrity(?) but aftermarket. I can't recall off the top of my head but I know when I first got them they never made close to this much noise.
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I have a 2007 Prius, the ready light would come on, but when I pushed the start button, the engine would turn over and stop?
Had the car towed to the Toyota Dealer, and they told me that the HV ECU was bad? After replacing the ECU, it still would not start, now the dealer is telling me it's the inverter or the transaxle?
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Just had AAA change my oil. Less than 1 mile from the shop my CEL came on plus all the other warning lights. I was able to make it back to the shop. They checked the codes and came up with P2103 and P2111. He reset the codes and drove the car. I then drove the car. The CEL did not return. He said that the ECM maybe going bad or the wiring and I should see if the CEL returns before having it replaced. I have been driving the car for two days at both high and low speeds, up and down hills without the CEL returning. My wife drives the car on the interstate going to work. I don't want her to have the car loose power during high speed rush hour driving. Should I just go ahead and have the dealer replace the faulty module?
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