We have a 2007 Toyota Prius, the fuel gauge seems to not run properly, It shows empty after about 330 miles but there is still 6 gallons left in the tank, as when I fill it at 1 bar it takes about 6 gallons of tank to fill it?
Will we be able to drive even though gauge is showing empty but there is half a tank of gas still in the car?
My fuel gauge is not working properly. I ran out of gas while going down the road with the fuel gauge still at 1/4 tank. What do I do to fix this problem?
View 1 RepliesHusband brought car in for regular oil change and told them I was having a problem with my gas gauge not registering properly. They claimed I probably didn't fill at least 4 gallons for it to register. So, they sent him home with that answer and if I continue to have problems to bring it in again and they would have to do some expensive troubleshooting. I have owned the car for 4 years and I was infuriated at that response since I only started having this problem recently and knew how to pump gas.
After doing some reading (not on here unfortunately) I didn't like what I was reading, that it is a "mystery" and could cost alot for them to figure it out. So, since I didn't have the time or money to deal with it, I decide to just keep track of it by the travel information screen. This was working out fine and the gauge started working again for a few months.
Recently, I filled up 8 gallons and the damm gauge craps out again and only registers 4 bars. I have a full tank, drive 92 miles and the gauge dropped to one bar during that time...I know I can't fill it cause I would take maybe 2-3 gallons (due to gas pricing)...so I decide to see what would happen.
I have a 2009 Prius. Last summer I noticed that the outside temperature gauge was not working properly. I asked at the wonderful dealership I go to and no one knew anything.
View 10 RepliesThe fuel gauge in my 1999 Corolla is stuck on Full. My mechanic says it's the fuel sending unit and will cost $250 to replace. But today, the low fuel warning light came on and it appears to be functioning properly. Does the warning light use a different sensor or does that mean the fuel sending unit is working and the gauge problem is elsewhere?
View 5 RepliesOK so 2006 f550 6.0
If I want to monitor fuel pressure with a gauge in cab while running all the time... (not just testing) can I purchase one of the secondary fuel filter caps that have a port in the top and connect the sensor to this to run or is there a better way? (Or is that not going to work)
Cap I am talking about is something like this
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(I know this is a combo kit but they do sell the fuel only) But since it has a threaded port in the top I could connect the fuel pressure sensor to that and go from there correct? Would that give accurate readings?
Filled the gas tank as full as I could get it. Done this many times. Now the fuel gauge is stuck on (F) full.
View 1 RepliesMy 94 Camry 4 cyl fuel gauge seems to be broke. It always shows empty. The "fuel warning" light doesn't come on however. The last time it worked, I had about 1/2 tank and filled it up. It took several minutes for the gauge to creep up to full. It worked for a few days and then when i started the car this evening, the gauge showed empty and tays on empty.
What is the most likely issue here? I've read that it could be the sending unit, bad wiring or the gauge itself. All other dashboard gauges are working fine.
I borrowed a friend's small Toyota truck for a few days of easy chores, and made a point to check the fuel at the beginning: the gauge showed 3/4 full. Four days and only 25 miles later, when I got in to return it, I noticed the fuel gauge was not working, I'm certain there's no fuel leak, I would have noticed that: the truck had been parked on my property the entire time, driven only a few hundred feet from one spot to another moving firewood around, so I would have smelled the gas if there was a leak.
When I added a couple gallons of fuel, the gauge didn't budge. Once on the road, I realized that the engine temperature gauge was also dead - no change on the gauge after 10 miles. So I have two non-functioning gauges which failed on my watch. This may not be directly my fault, but as my friend is kind enough to lend the truck whenever I need it, my contribution is to provide maintenance.
Is there anything in common between the two gauges which would explain the synchronized failure? Or is this total coincidence? This one is outside my experience, so don't know where to start. It's a 4 cylinder, 5 speed manual, base model truck, about 150k, generally runs just fine. There are no other gauges, and I don't recall what warning lights there might be, but I didn't see any after I realized there was a problem. Would the whole instrument cluster die at once, or could this be something like a bad ground for the cluster? I don't mind investing effort into tracking down and solving a problem, but if it needs a new cluster, that will cost more than I'd like to contribute, yet the problem occurred while I was using the truck (gently). My total use of this truck for all the times I've borrowed it is certainly less than 300 miles, so I'm reluctant to fund the entire repair if this is something that just comes with age.
On my early 90's Corolla, when I turn the key to "on" but don't start the engine, the fuel gauge will -- for example -- read 1/4 full. It will stay at 1/4 indefinitely as long as the engine isn't running. Then when I start the engine and drive the car for a few minutes, I notice the gauge has gone up, so it will be reading 3/8 full within 5 minutes of driving. And I don't have to be moving, once it gets to 3/8, it says at 3/8 whether moving or idling at a stoplight. It has always done this, even since the car was new. It's not a problem, but I've always been curious what causes the fuel guaue to rise like this.
View 9 RepliesI was heading to the gas station with one bar on the fuel gauge. When I got there to fill up I had two bars, same Miles To Empty (45). What would cause that?
View 6 RepliesOn my 2000 toyota celica I have no dash lights Including no fuel gauge level indicators. I can not find any bad fuses unless there is another hidden fuse box somewhere...
View 4 RepliesI have a 2007 Camry with the 4 cylinder engine and about 90,000 miles. I just changed the oil and took it for a test drive only to notice about 1/4 mile down the road it was running very hot. My a/c began to get warmer and my temperature gauge was at the "H". I pulled over and it immediately cooled back to normal operating temperature (in the middle of the gauge). The car was left running this entire time and I began my way back to my destination. It never ran that hot again but when I would slow down to an idle I noticed at times it would go up in temperature, but not as hot as before, and go back to normal temperatures. Sometimes during a drive it would fluctuate a little bit, but nothing as much as it would on the very start of running this car cold.
So I opened my hood and looked at the reservoir and noticed I do not see any fluid in there. I guess I should add that I have never flushed or changed the antifreeze b/c I did not know I would need to change it until recently at the 5 year mark. I also notice a little but a pink crystals (about the size of a pencil head) on a bolt at the top left of the engine, right under were the oil cap is. But that is all I noticed. No leak in my driveway or other areas of the engine. I must note that I did the oil change myself and it was nice and black, so from my experience it does not appear to be a head gasket, b/c I would assume it would be milky in color if that was the case.
How do you know if the inverter coolant pump/reservoir is bad after the recall was performed?Since it doesn't produce any codes but can reduce the electric-drive if getting too hot, how do you convince Toyota to give it a second look?
View 5 RepliesMy GF's 07 Santa Fe AWD has the common (from what I've read) bad sensors in the gas tank for the fuel gauge. She needs an Echeck SOON and it won't pass with a CEL. can the codes be cleared and a fuse or something pulled to temp defeat the CEL until a proper repair can be done when we have time to do it? I don't drive it so I don't know how long before it comes back on after clearing it. It needs a drive cycle on it to get it to pass E check to so I can't clear the code and drive straight to the check center (I dont' think).
View 4 RepliesMe and my fiancee have a 2013 Camry SE and we've been having issues with our fuel gauge... It randomly will just stop working... First time it happened she just got in the car from work and it was at empty. When she got to work it was at half a tank... It took about 20-25 minutes of driving for it to slowly reach back to half a tank.... What could/would cause this malfunction?? And then today on her way to work it did the same thing..
View 2 RepliesMy 07 Santa Fe fuel gauge doesn't seem to be working. what can the problem be??
View 106 Replies2009 Santa Fe GLS 2.7L ~63,000 miles .... Check engine light came on, scanner gave code P0441, but check engine light shut off later the same day. Since then the fuel gauge has been moving around inconsistently. Took it in to mechanic, he said he replaced a leaking hose. Next day, fuel gauge is still a moving target.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2007 Santa Fe Limited with 112000 miles on it, and its having some issues with the fuel gauge. It doesn't tell me the accurate gas level in tank.. it's either half-full or on empty. The check engine light is also on. What could be the problem? Is it an expensive fix?
View 1 RepliesI have an 08 Hyundai Santa Fe. Check engine light comes on, fuel gauge goes from empty to full, to half, to 1/4, just all over the place. Even ran out of gas a few times on the side of the road not knowing how much fuel I have.
What exactly causes this problem? I've heard "fuel sender" I've heard "fuel pressure sensor" etc. All are different parts. Need to get this repaired asap.
I have a 2007 Sante Fe with the 3.3 engine. Having a problem with the Fuel gauge not reading correctly and a check engine light. The engine code indicated that the problem was with the sending unit in the tank on the "A" side (behind the driver). I checked with Hyundai and with a tech line service and they indicated that it was a common problem and I needed to replace both the "A" & "B" units to correct the problem. I did that and cleared the codes and it set another code indicating that the "B" unit was the source of the code. I pulled the "B" unit again and checked the wiring and the problem still was there. I switched out the units on the "B" side again with the old unit and the problem is still there.
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