Prius (Gen 2) :: 2007 Shudder When Hitting The Brakes
Aug 10, 2016
My daughter, after turning 16, has claimed our '07 with 170K as her own. Both my wife and daughter have been complaining that the car shudders when hitting the brakes.
For background, last fall, they heard a loud scraping noise coming from the front wheels, I decided that after 155K, it was time for a brake job. I pulled off the wheels and proceeded to swap the pads and rotors to discover that the scraping noise was coming from a rock caught between the hub and dust shield. Didn't really think about it prior to doing this, but this is a different beast when it comes to brakes and the pads still had plenty of life left on them. The piston on the right caliper refused to go back in to allow space for the new pads, so that needed to be replaced. Quite the frustrating job.
The brakes had been fine up until a month ago or so. I took it out for a test drive, but only detected a "shudder" when braking through about 20 mph. I didn't detect any pull in the brakes and the stopping power seems fine. They seem to experience something different than I do.
I plan on pulling the wheels off and having a closer look when our schedules allow. Is there anything in specific I should look for? The mechanical brakes kick in under 10 mph, correct? If the shuddering is happening above this speed, what in the regen braking system could cause this?
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I've done the testing of hitting the brakes when the TC is locked and when it's off the shudder disappears. My question is I recently had a trans flush and both internal and external filters replaced. There was a hint of noise before then but it seems it's getting progressively worse. Could it be that they used the incorrect trans fluid? Reading through it seems as if I should follow the steps of dropping the pan and looking for signs and symptoms and then replace with the correct mercon fluid (if that's not already what's there). Then maybe some additives like shudder fix? I just want to make sure I take the correct steps to solve the problem as to not break the bank getting a new TC put in and missed something cheap and easy. Also reading it could be motor related maybe a misfire so just looking for pinpoint the problem.
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Relatively new Prius owner. I have a 2007 Touring model. I have two concerns I'm hoping some veterans can address for me.
1. I noticed last night that my left HID headlight turns off randomly (I saw it in the reflection of the car in front of me). I turned off the lights and turned them back on, and the headlight was working again for about 5 minutes before turning off again. This consistently happens so I'm pretty much driving with only one headlight on. The right headlight isn't having this problem, luckily.
Looks like Toyota had a settlement over the issue. I would post a link but since I'm a new users it's not allowing it.
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When hitting the brakes, the 3rd tail light turns off and on in the middle portion of the reflector. The panel is removed from the inside of the car, as the truck has metal surrounding the top area.
How do you remove the 3rd tail light to check for loose connections or to replace the bulb? 2011 ES350...
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Lexus LS460
Issues:
1. Just put her in for the SECOND brake actuator replacement at 45k miles. First failed at 22k miles, so they DO have that consistency thing nailed.
2. Also had to replace BOTH B-pillar trim pieces which have soft facing material that cannot withstand the constant barrage of seat belt buckles banging into them during retraction. They start by showing marks, then dents, and finally the material gives up altogether and begins to shred.
3. Brake shudder due to "rotor warpage." I believe this problem is due to production engineering (or lack thereof) during final assembly. Hub runout at maximum combines with rotor runout at maximum, even though both are within tolerance, to produce a stackup tolerance outside the spec which results in warpage given enough thermal cycles. The reason the problem occurs only rarely is due to hub and rotor tolerance variations AND the various stackup combinations arbitrarily selected during final assembly of rotors to hubs.
4. The recirculation-biased AC causes mold (and odor) buildup in the AC system. Since this "choice" was made by Toyota to gain U.S. CAFE credits, the fault lies more with EPA and DOT than with TMC. Still, the unsuspecting Lexus customer is the one who suffers.
I'll buy an extended factory warranty on the car, run it for another year (20k), then sell it before the chickens come home to roost.
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2008 LS600hl with 31K miles, been having low speed brakes shudder for quite sometime even after changing pads and machining rotors. This weekend thought about putting grease on the pins holding the pads, this did the trick, shudder is gone!
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We’ve been running into a problem with the DRCC on our 2011 Model 5. In simple terms, the DRCC freezes locking onto car in front and activating the beeper/hitting the breaks even when no vehicle is ahead! So far, this has happened once to my wife (when she was making a 90 mile trip)
In all cases this has occurred as the car was passing a semi, when the front of the car was even with the semi drivers door. In one case, there was no car in front, just acted like there was one.
Whenever this occurs, the car continues to brake and the only immediate solution is to turn off the Radar. Also when we re-engage the DRCC, the unit is still frozen – braking for a non existent vehicle.
No problems turning the DRCC off and using the ordinary cruse. What seemed to “clear” the condition was pulling off the Interstate and turning off the car. I also noted that (after it had froze again) that when the ambient temperature had dropped below 90 degrees that the DRCC cleared. The first time my wife ran into this was hot too.
In summary, this has happened only when:
· Passing a semi
· Temperature is high (above 90).
I don’t believe that it is an alignment issue, as I’ve been amazed at how narrow the radar pattern seems to be (and very nicely tracks the steering).
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Sometimes when I hit the start button it takes a couple of minutes for the AC to start blowing air. I even tried stopping and shutting off and restarting but it still took a few minutes to start blowing. It doesn't do this all the time just every now and then.
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06 Silverado, service brakes message comes on when hitting the brakes hard. What causes this? Is it possible fluid is low or faulty sensor in master cylinder?
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so whenever i AM DRIVING AND i go to hit the brakes the car mostly under the hood in the engine jerks abit then smooths into stopping
99 Jetta GLS 2.0
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2003 toyota Camry. when coming to a stop and hitting brakes there is a poping sound. It almost sounds like metal hitting each other. What is this or causing this!?!? Also it is a 4cylinder automatic with 100000miles.
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Got a POP noise when I hit the brakes. I have to apply some pressure for it to make the sound. Does it once when going forward. Doesn't do it again until I drive a few minutes, then it does it again.
If I go back and forth between reverse and drive, it does it every time as I hit the brakes, but only once until reversing direction again.
Takes some moderate pedal pressure to make the noise. If I turn the steering wheel to either side, it doesn't make the noise.
I've gone over the brakes, nothing there is wrong, and besides it wouldn't go away when I turn the wheel. Nothing is loose in terms of tie-rod ends, wheel bearings, nothing.
It's not bad enough yet to be able to see movement in the ball joints when the wheels are off the ground. Is this the ball joints?
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I got a 2007 f150 5.4 triton motor 94000 miles all stock just gots mod k&n filter top end rebuilt due to cam phasers and timing guides for the past year when i make a real sudden stop or sometimes quick turn the truck will bog a bit the i give it gas and will drop to 100 rpms and if i keep my foot on the gas the truck will die if i keep my foot off the gas it will keep rolling then die after attempting to accelerate fuel pump driver module is in good shape with spacers the old code i get when this happens is p0191 for fuel rail pressure sensor although i just replaced that what could it be?
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I have a Phaeton W12. When I brake there is a slight shudder at most speeds unless I brake fairly hard, except when traveling at 120 km/h and 85km/h, at these speeds the shudder is severe uless I brake hard, but this could be that the car slows out of these 'bad speeds' quickly. The shudder is unnerving and severe enough to expect that it will cause damage. I did have the disks/rotors skimmed on a lathe, I thought this had fixed the problem, I can't be sure it didn't. All seemded fine initially, but I don't remember the speeds I was doing when I tested the skimmed disks for the first time.
To add to the fun, I brought with me when I moved countries and VW won't work on it before its registered locally and I need the brakes to be working to do so. Chicken and egg sort of problem. Parst are also not freely available here.
There is a rubber suspension bush in front which I noticed needs to be replaced, which I will order today, but it's likely to take a few weeks to get here unless it's used on an Audi or another car sold here, but it's the opposite front wheel which appears to have uneven wear on the disk.
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Recently I noticed that my passenger and drivers side tail lights do not get brighter when I hit the brake. However, the center LED lights still are functioning properly. What might be wrong and how to fix it? I thought it might be the break light switch based on what I have read, but I would imagine that the center LED lights would be messed up too if that was the problem.
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I have a 2003 Camry LE 4cly. Approx 150k miles. Car has been a good Camry. About 6 months ago it started to shudder when applying brakes. At first I thought rotors, but it seemed speed dependent. When over 40 it happens more often and more strongly. After the car gets below 10 to 20 the shudder ceases. Front pads are in reasonable shape. Rotating tires does not affect the shudder. Has never effected handling of vehicle. Brakes work without fail, just shudder in front end and steering wheel. I tried flushing the system, had not done that previously. Fluid was yellow, but not black. After the flush, the system seemed to shudder less, but still have the intermittent shudder. There are no error code for ABS, and the light is not on and does not come on.
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I have a 2003 Hyundai Sante Fe 2.7 v6. About 2 months ago I started the car and it was kind of a rough start. It usually starts right up. I was driving in the rain and when I would press the brakes the car would shudder like it wanted to turn off but the head lights and dash lights did not flicker. I had it towed to my mechanic. He found a broken vacum hose and replaced it. The car seemed fine.
Today it started up kinda rough and then would shudder and not accelerate no matter how hard I pressed on the gas pedal. It was also idling roughly.
I bought the car from a friend who was the first and only owner. She has ALL of the service records and took good care of it. It has about 120k miles on it. The spark plugs and battery are only about a year old. It has a half tank of gas. I checked all fluids, pulled a few plugs and they look fine too. Air filter is clean too.
I asked the previous owner if she had ever changed the fuel filter and she said she didn't think so. I reviewed the service records (assuming I have them all) and it doesn't look like it was ever done. I have run seafoam through it 3 times since I bought it last August. I change the oil regularly and rarely let the gas get below 1/4 tank.
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1997 Super Duty 7.5 has a horrible "whine" when turning the wheels or hitting the brakes. Weird thing is, when I have the front end jacked up it goes almost completely away when turning the wheels. It is still there, and just as loud when I hit my brakes, but the brakes never were as loud as it was when I turned the wheels. I am guessing it is something to do with the steering gear or tie rod ends or something that I have absolutely 0 experience with....
More info on the problem: PS pump was always a bit noisy, but after the truck sat for a while (around a year, drove it every couple months for a few miles) it was ridiculous, so i replaced the pump, cycled all the old ATF out, made sure I had good pressure coming all the way back to the pump, several times. Never ran it dry.
The steering wheel (with wheels on the ground) kicks back on me and has a LOT of play in it before the PS pump kicks in and starts screaming. Jack the front end up, steering is nice and tight, no play, noise is there a BIT (with the hood up and cap off the PS pump) I would imagine under normal driving conditions i probably wouldn't even hear it much, if at all.
With my very limited mechanic knowledge I would assume that something is making it very hard for my wheels to turn, which is straining my PS pump, but what!?!?!?!?
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My 02 F250 has me baffled. For a while the truck would pull to the right when hitting the brakes and occasionally the brake would get hot. To try and remedy this I put a new caliper and hose on the right front corner a new hose on the left front side. The truck still pulled right and the pedal got spongy even after bleeding the brakes 3 times. I got to checking the rest of the brakes and found a seized slide pin on the left rear. Got that fixed and still pulling right with a soft pedal. I've checked all of the sliders and none are seized. I am lost and I cant stand the soft pedal!
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I just bought a 2007 Sonata V6 (GL or GLS). Before buying the car, the last owner had the rear brakes "serviced" because the mechanic said the brakes were "sticking" - charged the old owner $300 for it. When I am on the highway and I brake, the rear brakes shudder. Do you think the shudder is because the rear brakes are still sticking, or because it needs new rotors?
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When my R32 had a little over 2000 miles on it I the brakes started to shudder each time I touched the brake pedal. Driving in the rain one day it was terrible because every mile or so when the brakes did the wiping the steering wheel would just shake. I took it in and they originally said I probably had rust on the brakes. The dealer ended up turning my rotors because they said they were warped pretty bad. After that the car was just fine for the next 1500 miles, then I slowly started to feel the shudder coming back when I brake. I am now at 4700 miles and it is as bad as it was before. I am taking it in for my first oil change Monday and told them to check my brakes again. I hope they do something because I don't want to run in every 2000 miles to have the rotors turned.
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