I recently purchased a used 2007 Prius. I test drove it for a good hour and encountered no issues. However, about a week later, I was idling in my parking lot when suddenly these lights lit up:
View 8 RepliesI just got a call from my dad about his Passat, and am doing some research for him. He said that on his way home just now, the warning buzzer sounded, and that the 'brake' light, ABS light, traction control light and oil light all came on simultaneously. He was stuck in traffic, so couldn't pull over immediately... after about 10-15 seconds, they went off again. It then repeated once or twice for a few seconds later on the drive.
I've just done a bit of searching, but it is hard to know what to search for in this case. I did see some threads about a defective ABS module triggering the ABS and Brake lights, as well as a bad brake light switch (don't know if that has been replaced on this car yet). But that doesn't cover the Oil and ASR lights as far as I know. Any other possibilities?
Don't know about this code? Can't find any info on it anywhere? Saw it come up multiple times with my own eyes. 2007 Touring
View 7 RepliesI am having a problem with my 2006 Saab 9-3 Aero Combi Wagon w/130k miles. When idling, driving up hills, and accelerating to pass, the engine seems to miss multiple cylinders. I've had all spark plugs replaced within the last year, and all the cylinder coils were checked after bringing the car in for this problem (one was replaced). I took the car in yesterday to address this problem and the mechanic stated that he didn't know what to do. The check engine light is on, and the mechanic told me that the readout states that their might have been a problem with the gas cap, but they checked it out and it looked sound. Could this be a fuel pressure problem? spark plug wires?
View 5 RepliesI noticed the system allows me to have EV selected at the same time as one of the other two "non-normal" modes. What's the effect and function of this?
View 16 RepliesODB2 Code: P0300 - Multiple Miss-fire
I have an issue with my Jeep Liberty. It started idling rough with no error codes. about a week later it through the Multiple misfire code. I started by replacing the spark plugs. The old ones were from 20K miles ago and still looked good. Replaced them anyway. I still had the code. I put K44 fuel injector cleaner into the tank and drove it home (2 miles.) The next morning I started it and went in side because I had forgotten something. I came out to extremely thick black smoke. It went away after about 2 minutes, the computer code cleared, and the engine idled perfectly. About 2000 miles later the car is once again idling poorly. I added K44 again and for that tank of gas it ran fine, no code. Once new gas was added it threw the same error code and idles very roughly.
So here are some basic info pieces:
1. 8 tanks of gas from 8 different locations.
2. Adding K44 has shown a direct improvement both times, but more significant the 1st time.
3. New spark plugs
4. New coil packs
5. 2005 Jeep Liberty - 3.7L V6 at 99,872 miles
6. Hopefully unrelated is that the car has a small radiator fluid leak I haven't found. It requires 1/2 gallon every 2K miles or so.
There is no knocking sound, it just sounds like there isn't enough gas. Car responds fine to accelerator. Above 10mph car seems to drive smoothly.
First time towing a twin axle caravan with the Santa fe. towed 250 miles without any problems but on the final long uphill stretch the esp light came on. When the engine is stopped and re-started it goes out but comes back on within a mile. Also when the caravan is plugged into the electrical socket the indicators flash at normal speed but unplug it and they flash very quickly. I have read a lot on the foot brake switch being a problem and sometimes it causes the esp light to come on.
View 2 RepliesWe just bought our first Prius about six weeks ago. We purchased a used 2008 model with 83,000 miles. So far we have loved the vehicle. Tonight as we were driving home we noticed that the left headlight was out. I ran some quick tests and determined that the left high beam, low beam, and side marker light were all unresponsive. The left blinker is working fine. I checked the fuses for the left lamp (separate fuses for low and high beam) and all seem to be in good working order. Everything on the right side of the car is working fine.
View 9 RepliesWhen I got in my car to drive home from work, I had 3 warning indicators: a ! inside a circle with parentheses around it (in yellow); a picture of an engine with the word 'engine' underneath; and a ! Inside a triangle in red. What do these mean? The manual only says "take vehicle to Toyota dealer".
View 19 RepliesI have 2010 Prius III. the indicators hardly ever turn off even even when the wheel is right back and the click sound is very quiet.
View 1 RepliesThis video is about the Toyota Prius Gen 3 Temperature Indicators and cooling system overheating. I thought the prius did not have temperature indicators but found out it did, so this video is about how to know if your toyota prius is overheating and understand the basics of its cooling system.
View 2 RepliesCodes indicate bad battery block 10. One of the cells in block 10 had lower voltage than any other cell in the battery. Ordered new cell and replaced it. The 12V battery was never disconnected, but the battery ECU was disconnected to allow it to be moved out of the way for bolt access.
After reassembling the battery with the replaced cell, the no-load voltage of the battery is 215V. The car powers up with the alarm indicators still on (as expected) but putting the car in drive and pressing the accelerator has no effect. I double checked my connections. The HV relays are not being energized. Do the codes need to be reset before the car will move?
Yesterday while running errands the exclamation point on the dash illuminated along with the ABS and VSC indicators. I haven't had my Prius for very long but I kind of expected it to happen at some point as I had done the test a few weeks after I bought it and found the resting voltage wasn't all that great but it wasn't causing problems at the time. Time To Replace The 12 Volt Battery...
View 16 RepliesOk wife's car '07, complained her dash indicator lamps were flashing on then off for a second a once or twice in a few days, then triangle of death for a second, then all goes away. Her ABS light came on. This last time it did its flashing thing then the SRS light came on. First thing that came to mind was 12v battery. I threw the TechStream on and ran some tests. Saw 4 codes, B1801, B1811, B1421 C1241. Checked voltage at the battery, it was 12.41v with car off. Negative terminal was very loose and had a little corrosion. Cleaned it, tightened it and ran tests again. No tests came up for the SRS as it said "no response", so I am not sure how to test the system.
My concern is this is the second time the SRS B1801 and B1811 codes have come up (Open connection in D squib 2nd step). The first time I went through, replaced the steering wheel clock spring and checked connector wiring, checked the driver's side seatbelt wiring and replaced the side airbag/seatbelt ass'y. Then I sent in the SRS module to be cleared/reset. I wasn't about to mess with the Steering bag, so I didn't test it. Car was fine for 2 months, then it has reappeared. Did this bad battery connection cause this? What am I missing?? What is next?
Any hacks for that yet?
View 6 RepliesWhile running some errands with my wife the other day she made a comment like "One thing I don't like about this car (my C4) is that the turn signal indicators don't make any noise when they're on". I said "You're joking, right? Even I can hear the clicking." Interestingly enough, my 27 yr. old daughter made a similar comment when I was driving her somewhere a week or so ago.
Well, the funny thing is that I'm finally starting to admit to myself that I'm losing my hearing. Everyone else around me has been aware of it for a while and puts up with my constantly asking them to repeat things. And yes, I should do something about it. But that's a story for another time.
new (3000 miles) 2013 model dead in the water. will not start. have tried both keys. Wife can't remember if she might have left lights on last nite..but that shouldn't happen..with automatic off feature..right? Walks like..quacks like battery tho. When first trying to start..wipers were in on position..and they did go on..very slowly. Turn indicators only activity on the screen.
View 5 RepliesI never used the headlight before. Last night, I turned on my headlight, All the indicators like MPG indicators, EV,HV modes , etc. disappeared. Of course, it doesn't matter for my driving this PIP.
View 2 Replies2007 - I went out to start it and every light imaginable turned on. Fuel gauge and all gear indicators were lit and blinking. Headlights work. Is this a battery problem or something more major? It is the middle of winter where I live. It won't start up at all.
View 19 RepliesI'm getting Codes: P0300-306 (Misfires) and P0356.
I have researched the definitions of these codes and see that P0356 indicates an ignition coil failure on coil "F" (which would be Cylinder 6?)... but how is it possible only one coil is failing but I'm getting multiple/random misfires on all cylinders?
I've looked at the wiring diagrams and the only place that I can see a "single point failure" that can cause such a thing, would be the ECM itself...
I have a 2007 Hyundai Accent GLS. I just got it from a used car dealership (local) and it runs perfectly. It had a misfire code when i first got it, for all cylinders plus the p0300. It went away when i started the engine again, and didnt come back til a month later (Now). now it wont go away.
I went to advance auto and had them use their OBD2 reader for a trouble code and i got p0300, p0301, p0303, p0304. No other codes present.
I am not feeling anything bad, and from what I am told, a misfire feels like a hard shift. This is of course after getting the plugs and wires changes as well as an oil change. Standard preventative maintenance.
The mechanic used OEM parts got from local parts shop. i think the OEM plugs are the copper ones. I would have preferred iridium as they arent that much more expensive but I don't want to pay for another plug change.
The only symptoms I can think of, is that according to google, I should get around 380 miles to a full tank (11.9 capacity, 32 mpg city). I am only getting 280 from full tank to gas light.
I have also gone through a lot of oil. I checked the dipstick and it was below the low line, so i bought a quart of high mileage oil (same exact brand and type of oil that i gave to the mechanic to use) and it went to just above the full line. This was at around 1500 miles after oil change.
After visiting multiple sites about misfires, i found a few things that caught my attention. One is a site called auto service professional, which talks about the OCV for the MC accent. A lot of sites also recommend gaping the plugs at .035.