Prius (Gen 2) :: 2007 MPG Keeps Dropping Besides Of Battery Replacement
Jun 20, 2014
2007 model Prius with 74k miles.
I was getting 45.6 mpg on the trip computer. MPG dropped a couple of tenths pretty quickly. Got fuel and put in some Techron fuel treatment. Checked 12v battery, was a bit on the weak side, so I replaced it . Checked voltage and everything was good.
While I had the battery out I let the car sit for 10 minutes to reset the ecu. Now after 40 miles I'm getting 35 mpg on the trip computer, and the ICE kicks on any time I press the accelerator pedal, even if I'm going down hill from a stop.
There is no difference in driving style, tire pressures (40 front, 39 rear), I bought the fuel at a place I normally get fuel.
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Received these warning lights this morning.
Just took it to a local shop and here are the codes it has thrown:
The car is running badly now -- really not wanting to drive t at all. Where I can get this fixed myself? I have no problem single charging / grid charging / balancing these things out and or replacing hopefully only "block 8" as denoted above. And yes, this is the nightmare of having you battery go out -- 160k miles right now so no chance of warranty.
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2007 Prius. A while back my key fob begin to fail so I replaced the 2032 battery and now it works fine except ever since the buttons on the key fob do not work.
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So, I got stuck in standstill traffic for about an hour due to bad weather and wreck up ahead, and barely inching along the highway, I was surprised how fast the battery was dropping and having to turn on the engine to recharge it, killing the MPG; normal drive home I get around 50 MPG, it dropped to 38 due to all the idling. In such situations, just place the Prius in "Park" in order to shut down the electric motor (I'm assuming that's what park does) so it doesn't idle to conserve power? Would probably be an annoying way to drive regularly, but if you know you're gonna get stuck for awhile, I may try it next time...
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I am having an issue with my 2006 Toyota Prius. The battery seems to be fine, but when I turn on the headlights the battery suddenly starts dropping sharply and the lights quickly dim. I turn them back off and it starts charging properly again. It only does it when I turn on the headlights. Weird part is if I hit a bump just right sometimes it goes back to normal for a while, but then starts discharging again.
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Grill blocked today for the first time and have a couple questions.
Temps have been dropping more these last 3-4 days and have noticed my MPG dropping as well so I thought I'd try grill blocking.
Tempts have been and will be high 30s-low 40s in the morning and upper 50s to mid 60s for the high.
At first I just wedged the pipe insulation and drove one trip. I didn't feel comfortable that it would hold for the long haul so I added zip ties.
I used two pieces of pipe insulation 1/2 inch copper / 3/8 inch iron. Up close it looks like 2/3 or 3/4 of the grill is covered.
My two questions:
For fWT, at what temperature should it not exceed?
At what outside temperature should I remove the pipe insulation? In the Phoenix area, temperatures rise in March and sometimes we will have a short period of warmer than normal temps in February. I just want to make sure I do not cause overheating.
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Up until my last oil change at 105,000 miles, I didn't notice any oil usage. When draining my oil, it didn't look like it was quite 4 quarts. After the oil change, I ensured that I had the engine exactly topped off to the upper mark on the dipstick. Around 600 miles later, I parked in the same location and have noticed that the oil level has dropped enough to notice. I am guessing that I will lose well over a quart between oil changes. Before I resign to the normal mechanical reasons (rings, cylinder wear, etc.)
The loss doesn't seem to be gradual which has me looking for other explanations. I also had a Toyota mechanic go over the car and replace the other fluids and filters at 100,000 miles (coincidence I think ).
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Came out one morning went to start car, daily driver, 180k, completely dead. Figured since battery was never replaced went to Toyota and got a new battery. Left on vacation came back 3 weeks later, installed battery, went to start car and still completely dead. No dome light, no brake lights, no head lights, no anything.
Checked battery, full charge under load. Tried to jump start (correct polarity) using my 4x4 Dodge Ram 2500
Never had a single issue, warning light etc. I am going to get my multimeter out on Monday and check the visible fuses.
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I just got a 2004, it did have a bad 12V battery which I did replace, still not charging.But First it is making a loud noise under the hood sounds like towards the right side.when I accelerate starts at 18 to 20 miles per hour. Tried sitting still with car in gear and pushing accelerator can not get it to make the noise that way, without the wheels rotating.
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I have a 2004 prius that had a HV batyery problem. HV battery was rebuilt. After that car started ran but after shut down it will not start. It will only show red triangle, abs, vcs, yellow tire. Basically all yellow lights on dash board except check engine. Also on the MFD it shows the red car with exclamation symbol. I scanned it but shows no DTC codes.
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I just replaced my 12V battery and now the car won't start. It will take a jump and show "ready" on the dash but as soon as the car is turned off, it won't start again - no lights, nothing. I checked some fuses and they looked fine.
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I have a 2002 primus and got the p3006 code.
Engine would Rev and got all the lights. I figured it was the battery and decided to get a Dorman replacement. I replaced the battery but turning it on I would get the p3006 code after a few seconds. No lights at that point. I would drive about 10 miles and would get all the lights and a second p3006 code. I would clear the code and it would get rid of lights and car would operate normally.
Sometimes the lights would come on and the brake light would also come on and the engine would rev. sometimes when that happened I would get code p3012.
could the battery be OK and it be some other problem? I thought p3006 was the bad battery code.
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I have a 2002 Prius with 70,000 miles on it. The car broker replaced one cell which lasted about 15oo miles.
Code P3022 tells me I need a replacement battery.
The internet tells me Gen 2 and 3 cells are better than Gen 1.
Luscious Garage says don't buy a rebuilt battery with old cells, buy a new one.
Toyota tells me they only sell batteries with rebuilt old cells from Gen 2.
One person told me he would sell me a brand new Gen 1 battery with Gen 1 cells manufactured by Toyota. Does this sound right? or rebuild Gen 1 Batteries with NEW Gen 2 or 3 cells?
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well I saw one other thread on this topic but no resolution. I replaced the hybrid battery like the codes told me too on my 2003 prius and it now drives great but as soon as it start it shows a problem and the red triangle stays on. No check engine light, no codes, no driving issues just a red triangle. How to diagnose a red triangle when there are no codes.
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My 12v battery died, I tried recharging it etc, but it was dead so I took it to my local Toyota dealer and had the battery replaced.
Because I had the battery off, there was a VSC warning light, which I thought that the Toyota dealer could reset. They re-calibrated all the warning apart from one, they say that the Yaw sensor will not clear it's warning and needs to be replaced.
if I can reset this warning myself, or do I really need to replace this sensor?
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I have a 2000 chevy s10, it has a brand new battery and alternator. When the battery is charged the battery meter will keep dropping until the dash is completely off when I am driving, then i wont be able to start it unless i get a jump or charge the battery. why is the battery draining so quickly?
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I do run a small battery maintainer during the winter months plugged into a three way with the block heater. Alright after sitting out side for approx 9-10 hrs in 22 degree weather I did these checks. Battery voltages at 12.55V and 12.6V on batteries.
Voltage coming into for was also 12.5V. When glow plugs activated I am getting 11V on the other side of the gpr. After cycling glow plugs battery voltages drop to 9.6V during cranking and as soon as she starts back to 12.5V.
Do these numbers sounds right? In my opinion isn't the drop to 9.6V during cranking a little low or is that the normal?
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2006 gen II base w/ about 90k miles. Jump in, big scare triangle with multiple other dash lights. POA80 and PO319 codes. Traction battery fail. Fortunately, I was just under the warranty limit (8yrs).
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I'm getting the 14 blink code on my Hymotion LED indicating that my 12v battery is needing replacement. My question is that the car seems to run fine with the exception of my mileage is low. I'm ordering the Optima replacement. Can I still drive around for another week without worry?
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2005 Prius, 90k, original battery I think, started beeping on shutdown, then wouldn't start today (cold). Got a new battery, but the back hatch wouldn't open, so I tried to jump it following owner's manual instructions. Headlights came on at first (although stalk switch was off), but doors/car wouldn't respond. Disconnected and reconnected jumpers, lights off this time, still no response when trying doors or starting car.
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I have an 05 Prius which had no significant problems until the HV battery died this past Feb. Two days later, I'm on the highway and lose power, manage to get the car to an off ramp. Have it towed to a dealer where the power failure pulled up code DTC P3190 and I was told that the car was simply car out of gas. The car was at 3 pips without any indicator going off but after consulting this forum I thought "Okay, maybe this is just the new normal." Filled my car with 5 gallons worth of gas which topped it off (?) and went on my way.
I'll add here for lack of a better place that with the new battery the car has not ever seemed to accelerate cleanly - always feels like there's some resistance on the accelerator when trying to go above 50 on the highway.
Cut to yesterday - I lost power on the highway 3 miles from home with the car at 7 pips (!). I had only put 130 miles on the car since last filling the tank so I can *not* imagine this is a fuel issue. And, worse than ever before, this time when the engine failed I had only about 1000 feet to get over to the shoulder. I did manage to get over safely (for those in SoCal, this was on the 5 North and I narrowly missed blocking the ramps to the 134). To make matters even worse it rush hour in 95+ heat, and I was pinned in my car for 20 minutes (traffic on one side, retaining wall on the other) until the tow truck arrived. I cannot have this happen again.
I had the car towed to the dealer this morning. When the car was picked up the car was at 7 pips in my driveway. The dealer states when the car was dropped of there it was at 1 pip, and sent me a picture of the odometer to verify. Wth?!
How is this possible? How could the gauge have dropped so rapidly? Is there a legitimate way the fuel indicator could have dropped so much or is the dealer scamming me? And what could be be wrong? The AAA driver this morning said they should have replaced the accessory battery when they replaced the hybrid battery, and perhaps that was the source of the problem?
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