My 2007 Prius, 181189 miles, made a crunching sound when I left the freeway this am while stopping. No shaking, vibration or noises while going at speed.
When first accelerating I hear a crunch then clicking. This happened at each stop until I parked. Sounds fine when going in reverse.
I am at work and am wondering if I need a tow truck or try to drive 75 miles home tonight?
The other night I'm driving and i hear this clicking noise as the car is rolling, like what it sounds like if something is it your tire, i can tell its coming from the front right so i get out and check it and its nothing there, next thing i thought was its something on the rotor.....so i take the car the next morning to lexus shop that i go to(not the dealer) he hears the noise takes of the front wheel and sees the issue. There's like a bent pin in the middle of the calipers that he said got moved or bent or something and the rotor was rubbing on that, so he gets a pliers and kinda bends/pulls it back to where its supposed to be.
He says the hardware on the brake system eventually deteriorates and when i do my next brake job i should replace those things too(just did my brakes though). so i drove off and everything was fine. Today I'm pulling out and when i tap on my brakes i hear a squeak I've never heard before, it seems like the clicking noise came back slightly and when I went on the highway the brakes just feel different and now there's a shudder in my steering wheel, i do have a warranty on the car and was wondering if it wouldn't be covered since its associated with the brakes.
I have a 2010 LS460 AWD with 42k miles and notice when I am making a medium to wide angle turn at parking lot speeds the front wheels make an intermittent metallic clicking/ticking noise that can be clearly heard when the windows are down and stereo is off. The noise can be heard when turning in either direction, driving forward or in reverse, and both accelerating and slowing down. Doesn't seem to happen when I'm turning the steering wheel while the car is stationary. Dealer suspects noise is due to dry contact areas between pads, calipers, and anti rattle springs and wants to perform a brake service for $330 before they're willing to investigate further (car still under warranty till end of the year). If noise is brake-related shouldn't it only occur when I'm applying the brakes? What should I do?
View 7 RepliesWhat the fix is for my 2007 Mercury Montego Premier? When the car is in drive and the car is either stopped or at a slow speed such as at a stop light or pulling into a parking space, the car lurches forward. It is almost as if the computer is telling the car to step on the gas. I am concerned for my 16 year old daughter to be driving the car and have the car suddenly accelerate and get into a collision.
View 4 RepliesI'm getting a clicking noise while rolling, somewhat loud, and the same consistent clicking noise that speeds up when I speed up. Just a normal "click.....click.....click....click....". Would this most likely be the wheel bearing or am I getting in the red with possibly an axle?
View 9 RepliesI have an 2002 Hyundai Auto.
My car has the clicking noise under the following situations:
1) rolling in neutral with/without brake applied
2) rolling/decelerating without gas pedal pressed (I guess the same as rolling in neutral) with/without brake applied
The noise is the most noticeable when going at around 20 to 30mph, and would be gone under very low speed <5-10 mph. The weird thing is when I press the gas pedal and the car is accelerating, the noise is gone too.
My mechanics said it is because the wheel cylinder which is noisy. But I don't quite understand why the noise is gone when the car is accelerating.
I have a front end noise when I go over a speed bump or hit a pot hole. It is kind of a crunching nise like something needs grease.
The Hyundai dealer charged me $54 to diagnose the problem and told me I needed both upper control arms replaced to the tune. They did force some grease in the bushings.
The car only has 63000 miles.
I have a 2007 Honda Civic with about 46,000 miles on it. I purchased the car "certified used" about 1 1/1 years ago. For the past several months I've been experiencing a grinding/crunching noise when I apply the brake in reverse. I've taken it to a Honda dealer and they more or less told me that it sounds like something could have been wrong with the brakes. They ended up telling me they couldn't find anything wrong and that my brakes are fine. I've called the dealer to see if they could look at it again, but now my car isn't under warranty and they'll charge me to look at it. What could be causing this noise? At this point in time it's more annoying than anything - I'm afraid if I let it go it might end up hurting something in the long run.
View 1 Replies2008 Prius with 105k miles was throwing code (P0A92) and had accompanying grinding/crunching noise. Intermittently, The HV battery would drain down and the car would have difficulty starting. The car was stranded in the middle of a 2,000-mile trip in October after extended use of the A/C, and was left at a friend's house until February.
After weeks of arguments with local Toyota dealerships, who refused to listen to Toyota's national service representatives and demanded that we purchase a replacement battery for $3,000, I purchased and installed a HybridAutomotive grid charger. The Prius started and drove, but lost power about 10 miles into the drive back. Being in a hurry, we resolved to return with a trailer and tow the car back to my shop.
A replacement, low-miles transmission was installed per directions in the FSM. There was some trouble getting the inverter pump to bleed (I ended up taking off the return hose & pouring coolant backwards through the pump), and I had to swap in a spare 12v battery due to the old one being discharged. The car showed codes C0205 and C0200 (left front wheel speed sensor signal malfunction, right front wheel speed sensor signal malfunction), but no other issues.
About two weeks and 3,000 miles into the transmission swap, the battery I'd swapped in would no longer fire up the computer. A test showed the battery I'd swapped in (which I purchased in 2005) was only outputting 300 CCAs (out of a rated ~1,000). The Prius accessory battery was charged and reinstalled. The battery started the car, but would often need to be charged overnight in order to start the car (even though it would pass voltage and CCA tests). When the car won't start, attempting to jump it off another car doesn't work, and the battery had given readings as low as 10.5 volts, indicating a bad cell.
Yesterday, I had the car's owner run the in-car test procedure. Voltage was 12.3 without load, 12.0 with load. The third test could not be completed because the car shuts down. As the voltages were slightly low, the battery was replaced under warranty, but the car is exhibiting the same symptoms with the new battery. I'm now suspecting a bad inverter and/or failed inverter pump.
M/T 2010 Sonata. I'm just out of warranty at 102,000 mi. No issues before with clutch. I noticed a clicking or crunching sound when pushing the clutch pedal down. I took a gander and noticed the pedal was traveling farther than it used to because there were indentations in the carpet. So this happens for about 3 days. Then I start the car and cant get it into gear. If I shut it off, it easily goes into gear and I can drive. Usually it is ok after that point but is getting worse. Mechanic briefly tried to bleed it but the pedal stayed on the floor. He was able to get it to its original problem but said if he replaces the master & slave cyl then might as well do a new clutch. Because I had no slippage, no pedal issues or anything prior to clicking. Is 102k miles and 6 years usual time for these components to fail?
View 2 RepliesThe other night I was going up the mountain and while going it started making a clicking noise..probably from no oil..We had been told from the dealership there was a small leak but nothing to worry about at the moment.We tested it and it wasn't leaking visibly but I guess with it getting cold out the hole got bigger and we didn't notice so all the oil leaked out as we were powering the lil car through the mountains..Needless to say on the cruise down it started shaking i saw some sparks and I think the rod went through my engine block and we broke down. It's completely dead. The car has right around 200,000 miles on it and has always been very well taken care of.I just traded my dad the car about 7 months ago for my 4-runner cause of gas prices..I moved across the country and of course have had NOTHING BUT PROBLEMS since day one.
View 8 RepliesSo I had the cv joints and boots replaced last year. When I turn at low speeds I get a clicking and some road noise, when I turn at higher speeds I get a lot of road noise. I feel like its a combination of strut mounts and wheel bearings?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2016 Touareg Lux model with just 600 miles. On multiple occasions, when accelerating out of a slow rolling stop, the car bogs down and almost dies.....until I let off the pedal and gradually ease back on it. I was nearly rear ended recently as a result of the acceleration hesitation. It's almost as if the engine shuts down and is starved of fuel.
View 1 RepliesI have a 00 expedition 4wheel drive eddie bauer. 100k miles. New tires, recent alignment, new upper ball joints and tie rod ends, recent suspension change over to passive system with new shocks. Also must note I have "newer" front wheel bearings but they were from advance auto and not the suggested Moog ones.
I have a loud clicking noise at slow speeds. def sounds like its coming from the front area. Speeds up and slows down with acceleration. brakes do not change noise other than slow it down with tires. The truck also vibrates on the highway. I notice the tires are wearing (cupping)
Is it the cheap wheel bearings? what is the best way to test for bad wheel bearings? i think they are under warranty if I can find the receipt. Anything else i should test? can it be c/v joints or something?
I installed a set of Brake Performance rotors ( slotted ) with premium ceramic pads and have had a bit of strange stuff going on from day one. When I first got them installed there would be a mild grinding or rough feeling when stopping. It got better over the first couple of day but was still there. I also notice a loud whirling or humming noise when I stop from high speeds. I called brake performance and they saids that it may be that the ceramic pad is to hard for the system. It sounded a little odd. The weather in AZ finally hit 77 yesterday so I have been driving with the windows down and have been noticing more of the grinding sound even when the brakes are not pressed.
View 14 RepliesA while back I posted a thread trying to fix a clicking noise coming from the front end on my F-350 dually when applying the brakes at slow speeds (under 15 mph).
While returning from our camping trip last week the noise is back again. It does not occur after the truck sits overnight or for a few hours. But after driving for 30 minutes or longer the clicking will return when I apply the brakes at slow speeds. I tested the rotor temps with a heat gun and it seems to start when the rotor temps get above 120 degrees F. So I removed the brake pads & calipers, regreased the slide pins, cleaned up the pads and applied some lubricant on the back of the pads. I also bent the pad clips so they would fit snugger/tighter in the slots.
Whatever I did seemed to cure the clicking while driving around this weekend. I made sure I got the front brakes nice and warm - up to 180 degrees or so.
When I did this same procedure a few months ago the clicking went away - but eventually returned.
Should I get some better clips? Replace the sliding pins? Pads? The rotors & pads were replaced this winter & the shop said they and the labor are still under warranty. But if they use the same clips - I'm concerned I'll be back to square one in a month or so.
While driving, hear a whirring sound, happens about every ten seconds, lasting for about two...after getting home, shut off engine and this sound continued. Turned on, turned off, still continued. When off, occurs about every 20 seconds.
Continued for the 10-15 minutes I was in the garage. Opened the engine and definitely coming from under the Synergy Hybrid box.
Went out four hours later, and quiet. When I opened the door, sound went on again, lasting for 20-25 seconds....It then stopped and started again, occurring every 15-20 seconds, lasting for about 3 seconds.
I'm hearing a crunching/rattle sound from the front right end of my 2007 B6 Wagon, 3.6L, Auto, Sport Pkg, FWD w/ 45k miles. I'll try to characterize what I'm hearing and when I hear it...
In the morning, when I've driven less than 2-3 miles and I go over a speed bump (i creep over the bumps) I hear what sounds to be like an un-oiled/worn out spring like sound coming from the front right side of the car. I don't think I hear any other sort of noise at all while driving (or if I do, it's very faint and barely noticeable).
After I've driven 25 miles or so at highway speeds (at the end of my daily commute), when I'm around 25 mph (independent of accelerating / decelerating / applying brakes) I hear what sounds to be a metal on plastic-like loose wobbling rattle (great description, right??) coming from the front right end. It gets pretty loud. However, if I go over a speed bump after having driven a good distance...guess what...no "worn out spring sound", just the rattle @ 25mph.
The rattle sound definitely 'peaks' in loudness at 25mph. If I listen carefully, I can hear it at other speeds, but it is less noticeable. I don't feel like I hear it at all at 40+ mph. I'm pretty sure the rattle is rotationally dependent (e.g. the faster wheel turn, the higher frequency of the rattle).
My tires are worn pretty unevenly, so there is a very annoying wobble/hum at all speeds, but I don't think it has to do with the tires. So to recap, it sounds like a rusty spring when going over a speed bump when the car is 'cold'. After driving a long time, no rusty-spring sound going over speed bumps, but I hear a pretty significant rattle around 25mph.
I've got a 2011 santer fe auto with a foot hand brake. i park the car on my drive which is on a slight incline, when i put it in reverse and then release the hand brake there is a crunching sound and the rear offside wheel locks. It eventually releases after a number of revolutions but it sounds very mechanical clunky.
View 5 RepliesMy 2010 SF has 36000 km and I've noticed a "crunching" type sound every time I go over a steep ramp or a speed bump. The sound comes from the rear and never happens on smooth road. I took the car in for service last week and the dealership has ordered two rear replacement shocks -- they say it's premature failure.
View 16 RepliesI was putting my rear driver window up yesterday, and I hear a crunching noise.....it struggled, but I was able to get it back up. What should I do? I'm thinking it's the regulator, or a clip came off of the window, etc.
View 11 Replies