Prius (Gen 2) :: 2007 Car Throwing CEL Code For The Radio Head Unit
Jul 30, 2015
My 2007 is throwing a CEL code for the radio head unit. The code indicates the CD player is having problems ejecting the CD (there is no CD in the player)
The issue is not affecting the car or engine or MPG. The issue is that I cannot renew my registration without an inspection. I will not pass the inspection with a CEL light on
I have reset the code by disconnecting the battery.
Is there any way to kill the radio or the code.
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Where is the fuse located for our OEM radio head unit? I have no power coming in for the head unit and hopefully it's just a blown fuse!
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My 2009 Sonata GLS stock sat radio, dvd head unit stopped working. Appears no power to it, won't light up or anything? Looked at the fuse shows OK? The radio / dvd fuse circuit, shows the led-digital clock is also on same circuit. The clock is working fine. I can not find any of the radio's wiring loose or disconnected. Has my radio gone bad already? Car has ~ 14,300 mi on it.
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my 07 Camry has about 80k miles on her. I got fed up with the boring stock head unit and decided to get a new 8" headunit that would match the interior touch screen and all. Anyways I'm a fan of my AC as I normally use it. I took it to the audio shop to get my new headunit installed. I drive a couple hours enjoying it and decide to put on the ac. My problem is The air conditioning is only coming out of the passenger side now very cold and stale warm air is coming from the driver side vents. I can't figure it out. I got upset and went back to the shop to see if maybe they did something wrong and didn't hook something up correctly.
So they did everything they could and showed me that it wasn't any of there doing and that it's extremely "coincidental" that this happened immediately after they installed it. Anyways I'm also noticing that the light pointer above the dial on all 3 dials on the AC unit are not lighting up. And the light I am talking about is the pointer light that points and which measure of heat/cool comes out. The middle buttons still work and are lighting up as well as the off/on ac portions night back lights are working properly.
Also I have only the standard AC unit. Not dual climate. All my vents are set correctly as I never really mess with them. is there a possibility they could have damaged the Blend Door actuator. And know where the blend door actuator is located on a camry?
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No audio in the head unit, the service menu is not displayed diagnostics audio.
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My JBL head unit keeps dying. My 2011 Prius Three, not III, is currently on its 3rd head unit, and this one is dying also. About once per year, the head unit starts displaying gibberish on the LCD, often with horizontal lines marching upwards. As the problem persists, the display gets worse. Finally, the buttons start malfunctioning. Pressing the power button might eject a CD, pushing a radio preset button might switch to CD, etc.
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I've got a 2007 with Nav and was thinking of replacing the head unit with an Alpine INE-W940 or something similar/better. I spoke to Crutchfield, and they told me that this install would make my MFD unusable, and I'd have a blank screen. I am not certain if the tech meant that it would be useless for navigation or radio/cd control, but still function for other uses like battery monitoring and consumption.
Even assuming that it would still function for car information, etc., I was wondering, using perhaps Lockpick 3 to mirror the display of an aftermarket head unit/nav system to the MFD. I'm thinking this would be a really useful hack.
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I installed a alpine power amp - keeping the factory head unit. It sounds much better but I lost the illumination of the buttons on the head unit. I used the Metra connectors and matching the colors and adding wires to connect with the amplifier. There is 12 volts going to the head unit on the orange and white connector but no illumination of the buttons.
2012 Prius v, no JBL, with nav.
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Within the week the head unit has started to glitch out. Doesn't seem to be any real issues with any usability- at least yet. I have a 2011 Prius II.
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very faint but it's there. Kenwood Exelon head unit and 5chan amp. Noise varies a bit with throttle. Equipment is all decent / good quality. Is this something I have to live with as a hybrid owner? I have a short ground from the amp in the spare well area at the factory battery ground point. Have a dead silent amplified system in these cars?
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So figured out how to put my head unit on my base model PiP into diagnostic mode. I can't disable the reverse beep from this window... is there anything else worthwhile I can do in this mode? Beside accidentally deleting all my destinations that is.
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I have a 2010 Prius II that I am attempting to install a Pioneer AVIC-5000NEX head unit into. After following the instructions in the sticky thread the head unit itself works perfectly, but the car beeps constantly when turned off, and if I exit the vehicle the screen says key not detected. If I remove the Pioneer head unit and plug in the factory everything works great, but anytime I have the factory head unit removed I can not leave the vehicle without the key not detected error.
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I figured out how to get the text message function to work on my head unit. It was a setting on my iPhone, under Bluetooth it was the "show notifications". Then all of a sudden bam any texts I get while in the car pop up and the HU will read them aloud, also there are a bunch of quick responses.
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I do not have the Nav/JBL head unit, just the basic Gen III Prius II head unit, and would like to disable the speed sensor lock capability of the unit, like others have done with the Nav units.
If there is a plug-n-play defeat/bypass kit for this HU? There are some "fuel efficiency" windows in the HU, would I loose any of these functions/displays with such a bypass?
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I'd like to upgrade the head unit to something which sounds a little better and offers better A2DP streaming (the Australian Prius I-Tech doesn't offer stock Bluetooth streaming and the GROM Audio unit I am currently using to achieve this is temperamental). Everything I read suggests that you loose IPA if you do this upgrade, and while I know most people probably won't miss the feature, I personally find it very useful.
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I have a 2012 Prius Two, a monitor with Bluetooth capabilities. I use the Samsung Galaxy Note II with Sprint on Jellybean Android.
I have tried numerous music players on Android and here's what happens:
Music plays fine. Bluetooth paired perfectly. Randomly the entire head unit will reboot. There is no pattern. It happens after about a minute and a half. It shuts off and comes back on.
I do not have an AUX in unfortunately. When I tried my wife's HTC EVO 4G on Android It worked perfectly. Only Bluetooth.
I tried to install entune. No dice. it says that ny VIN is invalid.
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Wife has a 2013 V and I bought a 2007 with 200000k on the clock. Got a good deal on the car and knew I would have some issues so here is what I am battling. CEL came on and throwing code P1116. We all know the generic code saying engine coolant temp sensor, cooling sensor clogged, etc. this is the only code on the reader. I checked the coolant level and everything is within standards. No leaks appear from the lines. I believe the carfax shows a fender bender so maybe the CHS tank sensor didn't get replaced? So, I guess what I am asking is:
Should I buy a MINi VCI to locate the problem (I plan on getting one eventually just wanted to save money isolating the problem now)? ECU problem? I have read previous post with bad ECUs throwing P1116 but these post were 2+ years. Sometimes it sounds like there might be gurgling from the dash...I say sometimes lightly because it is very faint but have also read older post stating air could throw the p1116 code so maybe a coolant flush?
Also, big question: is the engine coolant temp sensor identical to the CHS tank sensor? The local parts store couldn't find a CHS tank sensor part number just the engine so didn't know if they were the same.
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My check engine light was throwing the code P1121 for the coolant flow valve. Toyota replaced it under a warranty enhancement (I have 134k on it), and since then my mpgs have gone from 46 to 50.
My AC is working much better now, too. My theory is that the valve can be in a semi-failure mode for a long time before throwing a code. Now that My coolant is flowing the way that it should, heat is being dissipated more efficiently.
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Yesterday everything worked. This morning nothing. Screen seems to be functioning but no sound comes through the speakers. No sound from radio, CD, nav, blue tooth, nothing. Mute is not on, checked that. When I got to work, I shut the car off, took out the key and re-started hoping it would reboot or something but no.
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2001 Oldsmobile Alero, 4cyl, purchased in March with around 150k miles.About a month and a half ago I topped off the coolant. 2-3 weeks ago I noticed the exhaust was intermittently throwing off white smoke. Not thick, opaque plumes or anything, but more like how your exhaust might look on a cold day. Being May though, I knew the temperature was not responsible.
This white smoke would occur intermittently and usually stop after driving for a a little bit. Since the white smoke was not constant and the coolant levels seemed to be okay I figured maybe it was something with the EVAP system or the fuel mixture. On a hunch and as a matter of maintenance I put in new Oxygen sensors a few days ago. The next day my coolant light went off again. Since then I've put radiator stop-leak in the coolant and some STP "gasket rejuvenator" in the oil.
My theory: if the head gasket is indeed cracked, it's a very small crack--small enough so that after the engine warms up a bit the gasket expands essentially sealing the crack. This would explain the intermittent nature of the white smoke and and slowness of coolant leak. Are there any other tell-tale signs I should look for with a bad gasket, if this indeed that case? I saw in the store some stuff similar to stop-leak specifically designed for sealing head gaskets that involved draining the radiator, dumping this stuff in and running the engine for a bit, draining it out, and letting the car sit for a day before putting new coolant in. If the head gasket is the issue would the combination of stop leak.
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What is the location of the amp for the JBL head unit? Is it directly behind the unit in the dash or someplace else? Someone said it's underneath the passenger seat, but I don't see anything there.
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