Prius (Gen 2) :: 2007 - Air / Fuel Ratio Sensor Connection Broken
Aug 2, 2016
I have been debugging DTC codes 2237/2238 and what sounds like detonation in a failed catalytic converter in my old 2007 Prius (375,000 miles!), I just removed the wipers and cowl yesterday to look at the air/fuel ratio sensor connection, and my connector appears to be melted somewhat, sides of the connector show signs of melting I am guessing that there is a connection problem stemming from this and the root cause of my DTC codes.
Can the four wires each side be removed so I can get the connector out to look at it carefully?
Can the bad connector be removed and the four wires be simply spliced together to get the air/fuel sensor working again? I did note that the colors of the wires going in are NOT the same as the colors of the wires going out.
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I am getting code p0420 and want to replace the air/fuel ratio sensor and cannot figure out who to reach and remove the connector to the sensor. How to do it? I read several threads about it and saw instructions for the rear O2 sensor but not the fwd air/fuel ratio sensor.
I hope to remove it from below and avoid removing the inverter. From under the car I can see the cable leaving the sensor and I think I see it terminating in a connector on the left side of the engine. I can barely snake my arm up there and touch it, but I cannot get a good enough grip to press a release button and pull it free.
I got the rear O2 sensor changed in about 45 minutes.
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1998 Explorer. The fuel pump went out so today I dropped the tank to replace it. I got the 2 fuel lines off and the 2 electrical connections off with no problems but when I went to try and take the vapor line off, the tabs on the connector were brittle and broke. Now I am stuck not being able to put everything back together since that line wont lock on. I was wondering if anything I can do.
I have tried looking online to no avail except for one site selling ford part that has this line for almost 300 dollars. It is just a plastic line that leads to a metal line. Even the Ford Parts site doesn't carry it! That's insane! I was thinking of cutting the plastic line off where it meets the metal line and using rubber fuel line with hose clamps on the line and the plastic fitting on the tank. I just dont know if this will be good enough.
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I got an 04 Nissan Sentra and I got a (P1273 Nissan - Air Fuel Ratio Sensor 1 Lean Shift Monitoring Bank 1) code that popped up on it. Looking to see what the probable cause for this code to pop up? Is this a rare code that popped up on this car? There's no noticeable symptoms going on with the car.
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My mpg has deteriorated severely (51-43 mpg). I am using Torque with a ELM 327. I measured the fuel air ratio below 10 almost all the time, both the calculated and measured. this seems a little rich. What the correct ratio should be?
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2002 LE 2.4 A/T 85k miles. all maintenance up to date.
I got a CEL P0420 last night, car ran fine for 85 miles so I could get home. Hook scan tool up to look at sensor outputs, and found that the A/F ratio sensor is N/A. And that the car is never going into open loop. Coolant temp stays around 185 at 55 mph and will only hit 200 if I hold it at around 2500 RPM in neutral while stopped. Even on the highway it stays in closed loop.
I know about the P0420 catalyst code every Camry I have ever had eventually gets it. But could it be caused by staying in closed loop for extended periods of time? Should I replace the thermostat to try to get the engine temp up?
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Is it dangerous to the car to drive if the wire connection is broken to the camshaft timing oil control valve? It seems to run fine.
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As of recently, my 2008 Prius fuel gauge shows only 1 flashing bar unless the fuel level is more than half-full.
I just got a quote from the dealer; they said it will cost me $ 900 + to replace the whole fuel tank, as fuel gauge is not a replaceable part. Yap, the whole gas tank needs to be replaced for fuel sender!
Well, I find this hard to believe, but i guess it is possible that they have built everything together as one big replaceable unit.
BTW, if this is true then Toyota is not making environmentally friendly vehicles, when we have to throw away perfectly good gas tank and other parts within in order to replace a moving part that is most likely to fail.
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We, just today I went to fill up the 2006 prius and noticed the fuel door hinge broke. The only thing keeping the door on is the plastic fuel cap cable.
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So i traded in my POS 2008 Jeep Liberty and decided to go the Toyota way based on family and friends saying its THE BEST maker and Consumer Reports seconding that. I've had it for just over a week and the rattling/buzzing noise from something being loose under the steering wheel is driving me nuts. In addition to the Pin from the fuel filler door wont extract and come back out so the fuel filler door is stuck slightly open. Besides these 2 small issues i love the car, just not the quality control i guess.
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I have a 2002 F-250 7.3L with 175,000 miles and it died on me July 30th. Here were the symptoms when it died:
Engine was sluggish at standard RPM about 1300-1500 going about 45 MPH, so I stepped on the gas and it seemed to go away. About another 5 miles down the road and starting from a stop, the same thing started happening. The entire truck seemed like it was going to shake itself apart and with the peddle at half throttle it revved to 3500 rpm and didn't shift into 2nd gear until after about 5 seconds at that RPM. After it jerked into 2nd gear the engine dropped back down to about 1000 RPM and started shaking violently again. At this point I managed to make it to a shopping center and then as soon as I let off the gas (still shaking), the engine dropped to 500 RPM and after about 15-30 seconds shut off. When I got the truck home I managed to start it one more time but it shortly stalled after about 15-30 seconds, again it was hovering around 500 RPM and still shaking badly.
Here is what happens when I try to start it:
From 0-2 seconds, truck goes through a normal cranking rhythm and sound.
From 2-10 seconds, it slowly tries to start itself back up but it sounds like it is only firing on a few cylinders, I'm guessing maybe 2-3.
I stopped after 10 seconds in fear of burning out the starter or killing the batteries.
Troubleshooting:
Removing the connection to the ICP sensor, something I read that might at least let me start the truck, which is how I found the oil on the connection itself. I also noticed a little bit of what looks like oil on the some of the wiring harnesses in the surrounding area. I also checked the fuel bowl and it is filled with fuel.
Possible solutions?:
From what I have read on the forums I am guessing that it has something to do with the ICP or the IPR sensors. I also believe that it is a sensor related issue considering that the truck won't even start. I am completely off track. I am going to start working on it full stride this weekend. I have been vehicle-less since the 30th so I'm trying to get this fixed asap. I don't have any codes, I am going to try to get a coder this weekend.
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97 shortie. 3.0 245,000 miles. I've already cleaned the throttle body and the idle air control valve. Throttle position sensor reads 5 volts, good ground, and a smooth voltage increase from idle to wide open throttle and back down. Which of these codes is most likely to cause erratic idle? Mostly in the morning.
P0340 Camshaft position sensor.
P1443 Evaporative purge flow sensor.
P0401 Insufficient EGR flow.
P0171 Air/fuel ratio is too lean or rich for PCM to correct.
I doubt it's number 1, and number 4 seems too general to be any use. I'm leaning toward number 3. Seems I read somewhere that the tube from the exhaust gets plugged up. This started when I disconnected a plug from the blue air bag box to get rid of that beeping. Coincidence?
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After my 2005 Nissan Sentra check engine light came on I had the codes read. The code is indicating that there is a lean air/fuel ratio mixture. I'm thinking this may be a false positive(bad sensor), clogged fuel injector, etc. The light has gone off and come back on. I live in Utah where the cold weather may play a factor. How to diagnose the real problem, or where I should start?
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I have a 2013 F450 Platinum and I love it. I would really like to get my gear ratio closer to 3.73 for fuel economy. Have not been able to find replacement ring and pinions to go to 3.73, so my only other option is to do it through changing tire size. I have 4.30 gears and based on what I have found, 37 inch tires will get me really close to the 3.73 ratio. I want to keep my truck as close to factory as possible, but I do want to do a leveling kit.
So can I fit 35x12.50x17 Toyo MT under my truck with just a leveling kit and use the stock rims? If not, what are my other options?
I have seen the option to swap to 22" shaved Alcoa's, but don't really want to go through all of the spacer/adapter stuff.
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The metal key that comes out of the Key Fob is broken, is it replaceable from anywhere other than Toyota? The key fob is perfectly fine no issues with it.
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2008 hyundai santa fe. 106,000
Bought the car six months ago.Found out 2 weeks later we couldn't put gas in it. Dealership refused to fix it because we bought as is. So we managed to find one gas station in a 20 Mile radius that we could put gas in it.It takes around 10 minutes to put half a tank in. Shortly after that the gas gauge started to fluctuate from full to empty. And the check engine finally came on. Had the the check engine light checked.Fuel level sensor A was faulty. Took it to a local Goodyear in stead of the dealer ship. The sensors were 119.00 a piece and the labor was 145.00 to replace both. Had both replaced .Fuel gauge is working correctly now. But still having issue putting gas in car.
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2007 Santa Fe Limited. The matter is that, fuel sensor on instrument cluster doesn't work and MIL is on. I replaced both fuel sensors and it didn't work. May be instrument cluster is bad? Or should I replace ECU? I don't know what to do.
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The ole 5.4l hit a snag today. I was on my way to fill her up and she started sputtering and damn near died! i filled her up and it was like nothing ever happened. Took her to AutoZone and the diagnosis was a Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor.
I have a connection with Bumper-to-Bumper to get the part for cheap but I'm not sure if i want to dive into either moving the bed or dropping the tank. I'd prefer to move the bed.
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My fuel door is starting to crack at the connection to the hinge? It looks like from the assembly drawing that I'll have to remove the wheel and the wheel well liner to get to it but the drawing is not super clear.
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I have a 1990 Ranger with a 4.0L that I just changer the intake gasket on. I broke the fuel line at the Fuel Pressure Regulator. Cant seem to find one anywhere. It is a nylon inside/rubber outside with a cloth mesh and quick connect fitting line. Where to get one? Can I hose clamp it the FPR by cutting off the connector that broke?
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My friend has a 98 ranger that has a lose connection on fuel relay under the hood, Hit a bad bump truck dies, Pop hood wiggle wire and your good till next bump. This got real old real quick. How this connection is made, Is it soldered?
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