Prius (Gen 2) :: 2006 - Window Failure And Check Engine Light On
Apr 21, 2013
I have a 2006 Prius with 100,000. My husband just called me from the road (3 hours away on the way home). He pressed his button on the drivers side door to roll the driver's side back window down a crack. After he let go of the button, the window continued to go down all the way then wouldn't go back up. He stopped and tried to put it up using the button on the back door, but it didn't work. He then turned the car off in order to get gas, and when he started the car, the check engine light came on. He's driving now trying to get home before anything more goes wrong.
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2006, 2G, 43000K. This has happened twice now. Both times on an extended trip of 3+ hours in hot weather: Cruising along at about 70 MPH, the engine just quits. RED Triangle; check engine light; and vcs light. Turned everything off. Car would not restart right away, but after waiting 15 minutes or so, the car restarts and runs fine. All warning lights off except check engine light.
Immediately drove to a Toyota dealership where the following codes were found: P0AOF info 204 (Engine failed to start); and P3190 (poor engine power). The Tech checked the EFI relay; checked for oil puddled in intake; and checked for a contaminated MAF sensor. "No problems found"!
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2010 Toyota Prius III with just under 60,000 miles. The car has been serviced at Toyota from day one (by us and by the previous owners) and runs like a champ. Well, did.
Last week while driving home from running errands the Check Hybrid System light came on for my wife. The car was still running so she drove it home for me to look at. I hopped in and noticed the gasoline engine wasn't turning on. I took it for a spin and even when I floored the car the gas engine wouldn't turn on. Since the nearest dealership is 15 highway miles away I knew we weren't going to make it there on electric power so I had it towed.
The Toyota dealership called me the next day saying when they started the car the light was gone and the car ran fine. They did some troubleshooting and found nothing wrong. They said it might have been a glitch and to come get the car. Not even 3 hours later the light turns on again. Again the gasoline engine goes silent, but this time I didn't even make it a mile and the electric power shuts off as well! We coasted to a stop and had to have the car towed again. This happened out of nowhere and could have been a very serious safety situation had it not happened on the road we were on.
This time the Toyota dealership had a little more to say. They said that their diagnosis has determined that the inverter is shot and they will have to order a new one. They said this failure is extremely rare (the service guy I spoke with had never seen this issue).
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My beloved 2006 Prius with about 117,000 miles on it needs to go to the shop (I'm not a DIY mechanic). As I was driving home yesterday from work, all of the sudden the red triangle, VSC, check engine and a little car with an exclamation point on it on the display came on about 2 miles from home. There also appeared a kind of wind sound from the passenger rear area when this happened.
I drove it home and pulled into the driveway. Lights, radio, etc all work. I stopped it for about 30 minutes and then started it up again to pull it in the garage (all warning lights still on).
My question is can I drive it safely to my wonderful mechanic's shop about 10-15 miles from my house (assuming it starts)? I don't want to further damage anything.
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Well I had the dreaded loss of power and EPC/Check Engine light happen on Monday. Was driving down the Interstate and all of sudden we just lost power. It did not go completely dead, but it ran like crap. Called the local VW and they advised to bring it in, still under warranty (27k, 26mths) and it turned out to be the high pressure fuel pump. They replaced the pump and the replacement was bad! Luckily they tested it before they got it out the door back to me. Provided me with a loaner and the dealer had to get a replacement pump overnight. Picked up the car yesterday and everything drives the way it should again.
I had already had the software update, but according to the service advisor that was for the fuel pump in the tank, not the one on the engine. Not sure if that is correct, but that is what the advisor told me..
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I have a Honda Accord 2004 Hybrid with 85,000 miles on it. My IMA and check engine light went on less than 2 months ago, and the dealer replaced the starter battery and it was "fixed". Less than 2 months later the same thing happened and the dealer claims that the hybrid battery is failing, need to replace it, and they can't do this anyhow because the part is backordered "indefinitely". Honda extended the hybrid battery to 80,000 miles but you are over the limit. So here's my question:
1. Can the car be driven without the hybrid battery, just using gas engine, without risk of getting stuck somewhere?
2. Is there any other remedy that would be less costly?
3. Was this a known problem that I should have been warned about when I bought the car.
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I was driving home and all of a sudden my rpms are at 3.5 4k rpm wont shift to next gear. I put in in tiptronic mode and shift it to 8 it works fine. Then about 10 minutes later check vsc shows on dash traction control light is on check engine light is on and the light next to the check engine i think it is the abs light. I havent pulled the code yet.
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I just bought a 2006 prius. It had 2 bad cells in the battery pack. I replaced the cells and all seems to be well, they all read the same voltage and the car appears to be driving, charging, working.
I still have the red exclamation mark and check engine light. The only code I get says to replace hybrid battery pack.
There are no other specific codes or issues and it runs perfect. Basically I guess what I am asking is how to clear the light or figure out why the light is still on!
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So today my CEL came on. I immediately looked at my mileage and I was EXACTLY at 500m past my oil change the other day. I checked the dip stick and lo and behold, it was about 3/4" past the full marker. I took it back to the oil change place and had them drain it down to a good level.
I had driven from NH to NY this week. I filled up my gas tank on my way home from NY. Gas cap was on nice and tight for sure.
The code is still on (not sure how many miles or drive cycles is required) for something to clear. I figured it was perhaps due to too much oil added. I decided a few hours later to take it to AutoZone and grab the diagnostic code. It's a P0420 code (Cat System efficiency below threshold: Air leak in exhaust before rear HO2S, AF Sensor Error, Fuel System Fault, Faulty Catalytic Converter).
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A few days ago my "Check VSC" warning came on along with the check engine and traction lights being on. I left my car in a parking garage for a week when I was on vacation and the lights came on once I started the car after getting back from my trip.
I have had the "Check VSC" warning before and I fixed it by replacing my gas cap. My gas cap seems fine this time around so I got my codes scanned and the only one that came up was P0300. Having this issue with the 2007 Lexus GS 350? I still feel like it's my gas cap because I bought a cheap replacement last time around.
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I know about the need for resetting the power windows after a battery reset. I have one window, the rear passenger side door, that does not work from the master switch. It does work at the door itself, but the green LED is NOT illuminated, or blinking. When I try to roll the window down on the first press, there is no response, but the LED illuminates solid. At the second press, the window works. When I attempt the reset procedure on the window (press and hold the one touch down after the window closes, then repeat the procedure going up. However, when I do this, the instructions say that the light will be blinking, and you should hold it until it is solid. Mine is solid when I am holding the switch, then after about 10 seconds, the light goes out and does not illuminate again.
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I recently got a Sonata from my parents when they moved to Pennsylvania. It's a 2007 with the 2.7 liter engine. It has had low oil for some time, so when I got it (last week) I put more in, up to but not above the full line.
It has had now for just a couple of days a very bad rattle, which is barely audible (but still IS audible) at idle and gets very severe during and after acceleration. It remains for some time even after the gas is no longer being pressed, then subsides a bit. I diagnosed it as knocking, but just today the check engine light came on and the rattle got louder.
I don't have another car to drive and I have class in five hours. Should I drive it or call a cab?
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I unplugged the battery and left it over night. Started her up and there was no check engine light. I'm thinking it could be because of the CAI I have installed? Took it to autozone and he said it showing no codes.
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I just changed out the spark plugs in my 06 Sonata and now the check engine light is on. The car runs fine but I can't find out why the light is on. Is there some reset switch?
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My 2004 V10 was loosing power, the check engine sign went on, and it actually stopped running. I got it to the dealer in limp mode. After checking the fault code with VW the dealer said VW told them to replace both turbos and both ECUs . Of course the engine had to be dropped etc.
What are the chances that both turbos fail at the same time? Would not one exchange lets say the ECU first and see if that fixes it? The turbos looked fine when they had them out???? The guys at the dealership were great, making it as smooth as possible, but could not fully explain it to me either....
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Just went and got my check engine light looked at.
This is what code I'm getting P0174
It's also listing ignition misfire condition
Fuel injector problem
and engine mechanical condition.
I don't know if this is listing probable causes of the P0174 or if it's saying those are also problems.
First time dealing with autozone and there check engine light look up.
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This morning started to drive to work and the check engine light came on or actually did not go off. Not sure which. Anyway it is a steady light not blinking and the car runs fine. Problem is that the warranty is out by about 3 weeks, not by mileage and I have an appointment at the dealer on Monday. If I take it to Partsource and have the code read will it delete the code or turn off the light. Just wondering as I don't want to spend money at the dealer if whatever is wrong is not covered under the emissions warranty if I can get the code and fix it myself. Don't want the code deleted either if the dealer needs it.
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As the title says, my CEL goes on and flashes too.
I've read up a bit on why the CEL comes on/flash and it says it has something to do with the exhaust system and if continue operating will damage the catalyst converter (which I don't understand since I'm a car dummy.
In addition, the engine vibrates like crazy. I can feel the engine vibrating when I'm inside the car as well.
I already got the car tolled to the dealership and they kinda just told me it might be misfirings and then they said they couldn't locate the problem. So my car basically has to stay there until they open again on Monday and hopefully they will figure out the problem/fix it under the warranty and call me back.
The problem arise late Friday night and I just did a 30K maintenance on Thursday. (but the car already has 43,000 miles on it).
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My check engine light has been on for months and the only code coming up is for the VSS. I got the VSS replaced and the light came back on as soon as I hit 70 on the freeway. Checked the code again and the same one came up. Is this a common issue with 06 Accents? I'm wondering if it might be a wiring or computer issue... My ABS light is also on, would this have anything to do with it?
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My 06 Sonata 120k 3.3L Does not go into reverse. (automatic) Took it for a short (1/4 mile) ride. Shifted fine at first then check engine light came on and it seems to be stuck in 3rd? What this may be, I don't want to get ripped off on a repair I don't need.
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I recently installed HID lights in both the low beam and fog/driving lights on my 2008 Sonata Limited. I used relay wiring kits so the HID's pull power straight from the battery. When I turn on the HID's after starting the car, the engine stalls and throws a check engine light with codes P0698 & P2110. Took the car to the dealer and all they really did was verify the codes and clear them claiming it was fixed...NOT!!
If I restart the engine 2-3 times with the HID's off, the check engine light clears itself and if I rev the engine RPM's while turning on the HID's then it's no problem. The HID's otherwise work great..and again the only power they pull from the car's electrical wiring is the signal from the headlight switch wiring that trips the relay to turn the HID's on!! The HID relay wiring kits have inline 20amp fuses between the battery and relays and they are fine, so the HID's can't be pulling that much current.
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