Prius (Gen 2) :: 2006 Engine Runs Briefly And Cuts Out / Oil Overfill Caused Complete Shutdown
May 12, 2011
I went to a local oil change place on Tuesday morning for an oil change. Had them change the air filter (engine and cabin) at the same time. The odometer is at about 165k on my 2006 base model Prius. When the job was completed and I pushed the power button, Christmas tree. Giant red triangle of death, check engine, and the display picture with the "!" in the middle. Can't put it into gear. Engine runs briefly and cuts out. Maybe they tripped a wire when they changed the filter? Nope, all was good there. Silly little tech put it on his code reading machine to no avail.
I called the local Toyota dealership that I hate and don't use and they gave the oil change guy instructions to jump it. No dice. So I leave it in the bay and call a tow truck. Towing guy figures out how to get it into neutral and puts it on his truck to take to local hated dealership (mistake). Long day of fighting with oil change place, followed by super star service from larger dealership in Austin (60 miles away) with the service rep I always use. He diagnosed the likely problem over the phone. I didn't even let local hated dealership do the diagnostics. I put that little Prius baby on a flatbed and took her to Austin.
Well, the codes pulled were P0A0F (engine failed to start) and P3190 (poor engine power). Well, that is the magic combination along with the experience of my service rep and tech to confirm that too much oil was added. It's was about a half of a quart. Crazy, right? Well, they cleaned the throttle body, interior of intake manifold of oil residue and all is well again. The big battery was completely dead so the dealership charged it up for me.
Next morning I pick it up and big battery is charged about halfway. Not sure if they completely charged it the night before. However, by the time I got to work (maybe 5 miles), battery indicator was full (green). I had an oddity when I had a longer stop light idle later that afternoon where the battery went from 4 blue bars down to purple, but drove the 60 miles back home and today the charge seems to be fine (4-5 blue bars). I have a sneaking suspicion that there may be more issues, but for now all is well. I'm going to get the 12V battery changed soon because we're still riding on the original.
View 19 Replies
Advertisement
(CORRECTION: AM1 fuse blew, not ECU-IG)
(Correction 2: Update 6/3/2014 AM-2 fuse blew, not ECU-IG)
What caused my shutdown and the ECU-IG fuse to blow while driving normally? I want to get educated prior to the dealer's response.
View 19 Replies
I have a 2009 Yukon that experiences a complete electrical shutdown (like if I turned car off and removed key). The shutdown happens sporadically with no particular cause. It has rained everyday here in Fort Lauderdale for 45 days straight. About two weeks ago my Yukon's battery went dead after running the radio for two hours without the car on. I received a jump and the everything seemed fine, but the passenger's A/C came out hot for some reason. Once the car was turned off and on again all went back to normal.
This week the Yukon began shutting down. If I am driving it seems to just flicker of and on, but keeps on moving. If I turn the car off I have to wait 5-15 minuets then it just starts normally.
I had an after market sub-woofer w/amplifier installed (Best Buy) about two months ago. Don't know if this matters but it has been the only electrical modification done on the car.
View 2 Replies
I put 4 qts Mobil 1 motor oil in, with a new Mobil filter. Drove 400 miles no problem. Parked car a week. Drove car to find CEL on. Can overfull oil cause this? (I heard it can cause lower gas mileage.)
View 11 Replies
Wrecked my 2005 and bought 2006 with 65,000k. Dealer had just changed oil and it is well above last dimple. Dealers have been quoted as saying no harm to engine by overfilling' At first I started out at 51 mpg and after first trip or two it is down to c.47mpg. Will overfill cause loss of fuel...
View 13 Replies
2006 Chevy Malibu Maxx. This just started a little while ago, before I replaced front brake pads. after I start the engine whether cold or hot, the brakes will pulse briefly when I step on them to get the car in gear. It feels like the ABS, but it only does after a fresh start, and not when braking. The car stops fine. The brake pedal is a little spongy, probably because I didn't bleed them, but the pulse was already happening so I don't think they are connected. there are no warning lights on at all. Also, it doesn't do it 100% of the time, maybe 80 to 85%.
In order to bleed I guess I need a scan tool, but the bleeding procedure is a bi-directional function which is not supported by most of the gizmos available. Know of one that might work without spends thousands?
View 17 Replies
I have an '06 trailblazer with the 5.3 engine. When it's cold outside Freezing and below. The engine will start. Run for three seconds. And shutdown. Pass lock light stays solid. The engine won't crank for about a minute. And it'll do the same thing. If it's about 40 or above. No problems.
View 7 Replies
2006 price with going back - rest about 105K miles on it. Recently the dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree with all the warning lights. Battery fan runs non-stop as soon as the car is started and if driven, the gas engine never turns off. When it happened I was circling the neighborhood looking for parking. After about 5 minutes the car dropped out of drive and wouldn't go back in until I shut down and restarted. The battery still charges, and holds a charge when left parked. What is most likely the culprit before I bring it in this afternoon? The dealer is 3.5 miles away (about 15-minute drive in Chicago). Am I risking further damage driving it in? Should I call for a tow?
Update: A check of the inverter coolant reservoir shows that coolant is flowing. Ripples on the surface.
View 1 Replies
My Prius is having a problem during cold start. When I bought it, the cold start was very energetic with a high rev tone then gradually regulate to a normal pace and petrol engine shuts down. But about 4 months I noticed the tone of the cold start has changed, it starts with a weak and low engine rev and delays to turn off the engine. Today it took about 10 mins to power off the engine. Got 2 months I changed my 12V battery (Bosch now), thought that these symptoms was to notify that battery is failing. But the problem is persistent despite I put new battery..
View 7 Replies
Had the oil changed in 2006 forester. They put 6 qts of oil in. The car was driven for 1 day, less than 50 miles and was blowing white smoke. Had the oil changed again with the right amount. The dealer is saying the car needs a head gasket. Did the oil overfill cause this?
View 10 Replies
I have a 3 1/2 month old GTI with 1800 miles on the clock. I check the oil regularly and noticed that the level was 1/3 down on the dipstick in the add/don't add range of the stick. My last car (a Honda S2000) had a graduated dipstick with "X"s denoting 1/10 of a liter, adding up to a full liter. It was very simple to know how much oil should be added.
As the level was down a 1/3 of the range on the stick, I conservatively added 200ml slowly and checked the stick. To my surprise, the level shows just above the"full" mark. I checked the oil on a level surface with a cold engine. I read in the manual that VW says to measure a few minutes after shut-off after oil has gone back to the pan, but I have always done an oil check on a cold engine. I understand oil cavitation and what it can do, but I'm thinking that such a small amount over will not be a problem- 200ml is equal to 0.2 qts. I considered making a tool with a turkey baster and some fish tank air hose to pull the oil out from the top. I could also jack the car up, loosen the oil drain plug, and let some oil out.
View 10 Replies
Have and intermittent condition with my 1996 F-150 4.9. AC runs and then cuts out (compressor not turning). I lose 12v to both side of high side switch. I tried to troubleshoot using a schematic in Haynes Foprd Pickups and Bronco for 92 and later F-Series/Bronco, but the color code for the wiring doesn't match up.
On my truck, there is 2 wires from the low side pressure switch which mates to a socket with only 1 wire. I have 12 volts at switch terminal on dash control, and it seems that I have an broken wire behind the dash, as I can get it to operate again when I move the harness around. Where can I get a schematic of this part of the circuit?
View 5 Replies
My 2007 Hyundai will randomly after being parked for 3+ hours will stall (engine shakes for two seconds then cuts off) when attempting to reverse. This only happens when the car is turned on then trying to reverse. It will NOT do this when driving and later putting the vehicle into reverse. Additionally when the weather is extremely cold or hot this becomes more frequent. If the car can be shifted into reverse without stalling within 5 seconds it will NOT stall. To solve the problem I have to either keep trying to turn on the car and shifting to reverse until it doesn't stall out (sometimes 3 tries or more) or putting the car into neutral and pushing. I have to stress this only happens after having the vehicle sit for more than several hours even a day and is random. One day no matter how many times I tried turning the car on and trying to reverse and repeating it would not stop stalling out. I had to wait till the parallel parked car in front of me moved so I could get out of my spot. What is wrong with my car? I have taken it to Porter Hyundai TWICE and they cannot determine the problem even after scanning for codes.
View 1 Replies
My truck has about 100,000mi and has had all the scheduled maintenance.
My 2006 5.4 engine cuts out under medium acceleration when accelerating from a stop. Happens when warm or cold. Works fine under light acceleration. Cut out happens before it shifts into second. Cuts out just for a second, then resumes. Stumbles twice under heavy acceleration. Very repeatable.
I noticed the gas was low - above E but below 1/4. So I filled up at the gas station. The problem went away. I had this issue with a 1980s fuel injected VW - it would get a vacuum lock on the gas tank. But with this truck I did not notice and inrush of air when I took the gas cap off.
I suppose it could be the gasoline sloshing towards the rear of the tank, away from the fuel inlet pickup.
View 5 Replies
All the gauges on the dash will die for a second and the engine cuts out and the car jerks then it will come back on and everything is fine. Sometimes the gauges turn off completely and the car will die and will not start for several minutes. I will try to start the engine but it will not start until the dash lights come back on. The first time this happened to me I changed the air filter and the car ran fine for a month. So when it happened again I took my air filter out put it back in and again the car worked fine for a couple of weeks. Now, It doesn't work to mess with the air filter at all. The car is cutting out more and more.
View 2 Replies
I've been noticing on the 2006 I've purchased recently with 120k miles now, the MFD would show the ICE engine no longer is on and proving power when I cruise to a stop. However when I'm actually stopped, I noticed the ICE engine is still on, about 5 seconds after I make the complete stop, I then notice the ICE engine shut down. Although there are no DTCs on the car, this seems to baffle me on why it's happening. The mpg average on the car is lower than my other cars, it can be anywhere from low 40s to about 45mpg on the MFD. What could be causing this?
View 19 Replies
I just bought a new 2015 prius a few days ago. After a couple of days of driving it around, I noticed this clunking noise that lasts about 2 seconds while the car's shutting off its gas engine when the vehicle is at a complete stop. It happens more frequently a few minutes after I started driving the car. When the car is coming to a stop and the 'EV' light is not on yet (only 'ECO' light is on), after the vehicle's made a complete stop, I start to hear this clunking noise (it almost sounds like the noise you hear when you press down your emergency break).
After this noise, I feel the vibration and hear that the gas engine's shut off. I talked to the dealership and they hopped in to hear that noise, and as always, it didn't happen. But as soon as I left the dealership, I hear it again. the car is normal when 'EV' light is on when its coming to a stop (no abnormal noise), but its only when the gas engine shuts off after the car has made a complete stop. And the noise is even louder when the vehicle is on a slope, either uphill or downhill.
I uploaded the video file ....
View 12 Replies
A few days ago I posted a thread about losing power on a steep hill climb with a cold engine. I replaced the hybrid battery and all seemed well. A few days later, the problem occurred again--bummer. (The car has 120K miles and has spent most of its life in a hot and mountainous environment, and I knew the hybrid battery was failing, so that's not a problem.)
The car starts the climb OK, gains a few hundred feet in elevation, still has some charge left in the hybrid battery, then loses power, surges a couple of times, then comes to stop. The engine continues to run at idle and I get no warning or check engine lights. The "ready" light stays on. This time, the second time it happened, I turned off the car, turned it back on again immediately, and all was well. The remainder of the 1000' climb went fine. As did several other similar climbs on the same drive. Since then I've climbed this hill with a cold engine without a problem, so it's intermittent.
I hesitate to pay Toyota for a code scan since the check engine light did not come on. Should I do this anyway? My local auto parts store will scan for free, but I know that their scanner will not read Toyota-specific codes, just industry standards.
View 9 Replies
This afternoon my 2007 made a long beep, popped up the red brake, traction control, ! triangle, ABS, VSC and check engine lights. It followed up by the gas engine cutting out and we had to coast to a shady spot (over 112 degrees at the time). After we pushed it into a parking spot we tried to turn the car on and off and it wouldn't allow us to change it to drive or reverse.
View 3 Replies
It has been very cold and snowy recently. This morning when I left for work it was about -6 degrees F. After about 15 miles into a 55 mile trip down a snow free road with a 70 mph speed limit I had an unusual experience. Cruise is set at 75 (based on GPS), had to slow down to negotiate around a couple of triple trailer trucks. When I selected resume with the cruise, the engine revved and then cut in and out as it tried to accelerate to 70 mph.
No trouble lights or dashboard warnings. I turned off the cruise, and feathered the throttle and edged back to 75 mph, and then reset cruise. I rolled down the road for another 10 without issue. I again tried to duplicate the problem and I was unable to reproduce the engine cut out. When it malfunctioned, it felt as if the ignition was switched on and off. What might cause this erratic engine behavior?
View 9 Replies
When trying to drive my car out of the garage this weekend, it started backing up and then it stopped. It would also not do anything when I put it in drive. Next, the engine cut out. It would only stay on for a few seconds when starting it up again. It continued to do this. I had the car brought to my local mechanic who specializes in foreign cars. He called me today and said my car will not talk to the computer. He stated it must be the hybrid battery. He told me I need to take it to a Toyota dealer. My question is how to know if this battery is truly out and there is not another problem? I have a 2001 Prius.
View 3 Replies
