Prius (Gen 2) :: 2006 / Door Lock Fails Out-of-state?
Jun 8, 2012
Prius 2006. Twice in recent weeks I have visited my son in Maine (I live in Massachusetts). While there, I attempted to lock my Prius by pressing the lock button on the door. It didn't work, I got a long beep. I was able to lock the car by pressing the lock button on the remote.
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I'm posting for my Dad who recently bought a black 2009 Avalon XLS. He loves the car but there's one annoying glitch: if the car sits too long in the sun, the driver's side door cannot be opened with either the FOB or even by inserting the key in the door. He then has to go around to the passenger side, and either climb over the centre console or reach over and manually unlock the door. What surprises me is that he can't even mechanically unlock the door with the key.
I've spent a lot of time research this, but I've been surprised at how little I've found. Eventually I came across similar complaints with black Toyota or Lexus door locks failing in the heat, but nothing for the 3G Avalon and "heat failures". To confirm, this problem only arises when the car is parked in the sun on a warm day.
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Recently, I've been having issues with my door locks. When exiting the car, and pressing the door lock on the outside handle, I would here the door lock solenoid fire once, then open, and the door would not lock. Same thing would happen when I used the FOB. The door would not lock. On occasion, I would get the door to lock, and stay locked by using the door lock inside the car when the door was open.
On the occasions when I did get the door locked, I then had issues unlocking. If I approached the drivers door to unlock the door, the car would just keep repeatedly beeping, and would not unlock the drivers door. But, the back door would unlock, so I could reach in, and open the drivers door from the back.
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I have a 2007 4 door Sonata, and the Driver door power door lock does not always function. It make a noise like it is working, but most of the time it does not lock or unlock the door. The other doors work fine, and I need to manually lock and unlock the driver door with the key. I'm told that the problem is probably the door lock motor. Looking for some detailed instructions on how to remove and replace this motor?
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My 2010 f150 stx 4x4 fails to lock in the front hubs...
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I'm looking to replace my drivers side door lock actuator. Looking for detailed photos explaining the process?
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Ok so this started with the ignition key cylinder locking and refusing to turn. Some tri-flow, patience and judicious taps of a hammer fixed that issue, but not before i pried apart the plastic cap that keeps the little spring loaded plunger in place that actuates the ding ding when the key is inserted to the ignition. This little plunger has a couple of contacts and is wired to the little green bulb that illuminates the ring around the ignition key. Everything was just fine until i caused an arc between the exposed contacts and the side of the ignition cylinder.
Now neither the fob nor the door switch will lock or unlock the doors or the trunk unless the key is in the 'on' position. It should be hot at all times. What have I shorted out? I checked all the fuses and of course they are fine. My nightmare is that i have messed up an expensive module. I did find the plastic cap and plunger hiding under and behind the heat ducts to the rear seats and put that back together, so there are no exposed contacts, but the damage has been done.
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I have a 2010 Hyundai Elantra (GLS, I think). I was having problems with the factory alarm, and while troubleshooting that, I found that the lock on the rear door (drivers side) works well manually, but fails (won't lock or unlock) most of the time when using the key fob or the master lock switch on the drivers door. I'm pretty sure the actuator for the door lock/latch is going bad, and I'd like to take it off the vehicle for inspection and if bad, replace it.
So, I took the door panel off, and found there is a huge aluminum cover over most of the door, with about 9 bolts holding it on. I can't seem to get it off, to gain access to the interior of the door where the actuator is mounted. I've tried the local Hyundai dealership, local auto parts stores, but how to remove it. Removing the bolts lets me pry it away enough to peek inside, but I can't find what's holding that aluminum cover on.
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I have a 2007 GLS Sonata. And suddenly when I lock my doors with the remote, the driver door wont lock but every other door will lock. Is it a fuse?
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How to Adjust Door Lock Settings
Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs
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The lock on the rear driver side door doesn't work, it stuck on lock position and it won't open with the remote. You can't even turn the lock by hand from inside. It's like it's jammed or something. The rear passenger door lock was broken a while ago, it was making a nasty noise but still working so I had it changed but this one just stopped working.
How am I gonna fix that. I was thinking in order to fix the lock, they have to remove the door panel first, and to remove the door panel the door should be open to get to the screws. Is it gonna be stock for ever ?
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I own a 2006 Hyundai Azera and for the last year, I've had a door lock issue. My driver's side door lock will not lock the door. It sometimes engages it slightly so I don't think it is electrical. It happened after I accidentally left the windows cracked during summer and there was a huge t-storm from which some rain water got on the door lock mechanism. Could it be the door lock actuator or perhaps a spring got loose?
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I have had this Elantra for over 7 years now and it has given me faultless service - up to now. Some months ago I noticed that when I operated my personal locking key, the drivers side lock would not operate. More recently, this problem seems to be getting worse. Its not a problem leaving the car as I can manually operate the switch but opening the front door requires me to crawl in from the rear door to unlock it. When I operate the door lock with the key, I see the lock attempting to move but remains in its position. I've tried several alternatives like using my wife's keys but the system remains resolute. By the way, where is the antenna that receives signals from the key?
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Driver's power door lock will sometimes not lock with remote when outside car. The lock button will only move part way towards being locked but not enough to lock the door. The same is true when the inside master lock is pressed to lock all doors. The driver's door lock will only move part way. When returning to car, remote will unlock all doors except driver's door. This happens about half the time. i.e sometimes the remote will lock/unlock ALL doors and sometimes all doors except the driver's door.
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My '07 Elantra wont open from the outside handle, and it also wont unlock when using the key fob. Is it possible I have a bad actuator?
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The little piece that flips when you lock the doors (you know what I mean, it is orange when it's open) has been acting up on my 06 Sonata. If you move it by hand it's fine (the door locks and unlocks) but when you use the fob and lock or unlock the doors, sometimes this one just doesn't move.
It looks like it wants to go, but doesn't. If you press lock and unlock again, it opens. on occasion.
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I just purchased this really nice high milage '07 Sonata and am working on some "minor" issues:
The Driver's Door lock actuator is not working (all others are fine using the interior lock/unlock switch and the key when used in the driver's door lock).
I have researched the issue on this site and want to confirm what appears to be a nasty replacement scenario.
1st, can a new actuator be found for less than $70.00+-?
2nd, are the acuators specific for each door, left and right doors, or all interchangeable? I ask because I might go for a used one.
3rd, is the complete dismantleling of the door and window actually necessary? Seems unbelievable especially for such a common problem. But of course the engineers never expected it to be a "common" failure.
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The driver side door lock doesn't work electronically. It locks and unlocks with the key and the knob on the inside but not with the remote and central locking. Though when I lock it, it does make a sound and the knob moves a little. Need to confirm that it is in fact the actuator ...
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I am now having my first issue with my car in that the rear drivers side door lock won't always work.
After using the search function, it seems replacing the door lock actuator/solenoid solves this problem, but I could only find a diagram showing how to get at it on the drivers front door, not a rear door.
Looking for a diagram on how to do this, or info on it?
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I am considering bringing my 2009 Hyundai Elantra to the dealer to have the speed sensing door lock system enabled! With the system enabled do both the driver and passenger doors unlock when you put the car back in park?
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A month ago I bought a 2007 Prius with 140,000 km. I notice that the state of charge drops into the 'red' bars within about 20 minutes of the car switched on, in Park with no accessories running. A mechanic connected his diagnostic computer and saw 2 cells are low. However, the mechanic informs me there is no value in replacing those cells as others are likely to go down, thereafter. Is there anything I can do to avoid having to replace the entire traction battery?
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