Prius (Gen 2) :: 2006 Car Went Into Limp Mode - Unable To Shift Into Drive Or Reverse
Jan 16, 2013
I was once the proud owner of a 2006 Prius with 106,716 miles on it. Never missed a regularly scheduled service. Now, I am no longer proud, but just another owner of a Prius with a failed transaxle.
Last week, I parked my car on my way to work and, while the car was idling in park, the Triangle of Death (red with exlamation mark within) came up on the dashboard. The car went into limp mode -- it was unable to shift into drive or reverse -- so I had it towed to Darcars in Silver Spring, MD. They thought the original 12v battery was dead, so they replaced it.
P0AA6 -- 526 and 613 codes 600 miles after Transaxle Fluid Replacement...
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Should we go to a transmission specialist or a regular shop for our issue? 2006 Kia Sedona - won't shift into reverse suddenly and is in "limp" mode, only staying in 3rd gear.
My concerns are primarily getting it done correctly and as cheaply as possible. I've read that the issue could be an input or output solenoid or maybe having to get a full on re manufactured transmission instead. But the consensus appears to be having it properly diagnosed.
So my question is, will the local shop around the corner who is pretty good with most repairs be able to properly deal with this? Or am I better off skipping them and going to the specialist?
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2008 sonata 3.3, no reverse however the dash indicates it's in reverse. Code P0733. I understand how an unrelated problem can cause another and wonder if I can eliminated possible problems. Car is in limp mode and stays in second or third gear.
I am about to disconnect, clean and wiggle the connectors for the transmission inner and outer sensors and then find out if I can test the sensors. That is, after I find them.
I'm also on the hunt for anything the TPS sensor might have to do with it. Battery disconnect does not work, even after hours. Is there any way something unrelated like the brake light switch or the inhibitor switch (whatever that is), might be the cause? Valve body?
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Vehicle was repaired after front end collision and I get no codes found on scanner, had some bad connectors which I replaced and codes went away. I don't get ready light and the dash lights do not cycle off (ABS, SRS, Check engine, Etc. Etc.) The car will shift into neutral but not drive or reverse. Has new Aux battery and Hybrid battery is showing two bars. What to check ?
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I have a 2005 Subaru Outback 2.5 and a while back I had to replace a drive shaft. After replacing it my car goes into limp mode and I get a different random code every time. The car seems to run fine when it is cold but after it warms up it will go into limp mode randomly. If I cost to a stop and shut down the car and wait a while to restart it runs fine. I've tried and researched just about everything thing.
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I shifted to "reverse" but the car went to "drive" instead. I've only had my Prius for 2 weeks. Today was the first time I encountered this problem, and it happened 3x.
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Ok first off I am a used car dealer and have sold 20 plus gen IIs and never had to replace the main Hybrid battery pack... until this one! after i replaced it with a used one every thing seemed to be fine, I drove the car for a while the check engine light went off(the reason we knew the battery pack was bad) and after a few miles of driving the red triangle light went off.. yea! I think im done so we put all the carpet and rear seats back in and i get in it to start it and put it on the lot and it will not go into gear or start. all the dash lights come on and will go into neutral when i push the brake but just will not go into drive or neutral.
Here are some things we already tried:
1. put the original battery back in the car- no change
2. put our jump box to the small battery-no change
3. checked the brake lights they are coming on when i push the brake
4. put the scanner on the obdII- no codes
The car is an 06 with 200k miles in very good shape. Could it be in the shifter and not related to the battery change out?
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I have recently been having problems with my 2013 Prius v (lowercase v for the Prius v wagon). When I press power, all the dashboard lights turn on. And when I try to shift the car into reverse or drive the car stays on neutral. What is going on?
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Today I decided to change my rotors and pads out.. Got everything back together and i believe car is in limp mode.. It wont shift out of 3rd.. Abs light on ,check engine light, traction control and stability control light on.. Also my speedometer doesn't work but my rpm"s do...hooked up scan tool and comes back as wheel speed sensors.. I never touched them or removed them....
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Nissan XTerra 2005 transmission RE5R05A. Trouble code is p1757 When I go from park to drive it goes out of gear and puts my car in limp mode. I took it to the dealer and they told me that I have to replace a transmission another place told that it could be brake solenoid or oil filter. In third place they told me it could be the TCM problems.
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I am having difficulty with my Prius, (just started) that it won't shift out of neutral to drive or reverse. I have read several posts, one says replace the shifter knob, but I did read one i thought that said the 12v battery might be the problem with low voltage. The battery is 5 years old.
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I have an '07 Prius Touring with about 95K miles that I have owned for about a month (after my previous '07 was totaled). My wife tried to drive it for the first time today, and the problem is that when my wife tries to start the engine, the dash lights come on and the color display comes on, but the car won't "shift" into Drive or Reverse (it will go into Neutral). A dash warning light also comes on that the owner's manual says means Take to the Toyota Dealer for Service. Then if she gets out of the car and then I get into the drivers seat, everything works fine.
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2009 Touring Dead at 55000... All lights on dash light up and won't shift to reverse or drive only neutral. Towed to dealer and they said it threw several codes and are replacing the tranny.
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Twice now, my 2006 VW Jetta has gone into "limp mode"--RPMs rev like mad but I get very little power, won't go into overdrive. Had to get it home both times by using the Tiptronic. The first time it happened, we were driving through The Poconos on a nice day. Shut the car off & restarted it with no problem. The 2nd time was during an intensely hot day & torrential rainstorm in MD. The car sat for 2 days before going back to normal. Is this normal behavior for a VW? And what makes it go into limp mode? I can understand it happening during the rainstorm but on a nice day of normal driving?
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I've a 2006 sonata 3.3 with 100k miles on it and recently it started going to limp mode leaving me in 3rd gear only after scanning it I've found code p0743 (TCC selonoid open/short circuit) what to check from here or can share any wiring diagrams for this particular circuit I'm not sure where to start. where is the wiring harness for that is located ? is it in the oil pan ? and if I wanted to pull the selonoid itself to check would it be something I can do myself ?
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We have a 2006 Passat, 30K miles, live in northeast on a Great Lake. We bought it used in 5/07 with 11K miles on it. The other day, a whole mess of warning lights came on, and the car went into "limp mode." The dealership diagnosed corroded wires where they connect to the throttle valve controller. We usually keep our cars for years, and we've never had corroded wires before. Is this a typical problem of VW's? The service mgr said he'd seen about 6 come in in the last year, but I don't know if that's a lot or a few compared to other brands. We're getting ready to shop for cars again, and we'd consider a new Jetta, but not if it can't go out in the rain. Also, if the wires corroded once, what will keep them from corroding again? Should we expect this to keep happening?
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2006 Montana 3.9.
Went into 'limp mode' (dash says, reduced engine power)
Mechanic friend scanned it: It indicated Cam Sensor. He bought a Cam Sensor but the next scan indicated Throttle Position Sensor. TPS is not available separate from the throttle body.
It seems like it might be a dirty fuel filter to me but it looks like the only fuel filter is on the pump in the fuel tank. Is that the case? Auto parts people say no other filter. Is there something we can do besides the full blown job of pulling the tank, and removing the fuel pump; some kind of additive or treatment to clean the fuel filter?
Why is it still the norm to have the pump etc. in the tank where you can't access it?
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It seems like more often than not I am unable to use EV mode and I don't know why. The battery is charged, I'm at a stop! But it says its unavailable.
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When I backed up yesterday, some dash symbols showed up. After turning off the car, I am not able to get it in Ready Mode. Only solution so far: to disconnect the 12V battery and wait approx. 2-3 minutes. After that, the lights are off. The 12v battery does also indicates normal voltage. IG-OFF: 12.7V IG-ON 12.2 ... Unfortunately I cannot get the trouble codes with my scan tool ...
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Since I purchased my 2010 I've never been able to use EV mode. I know it's just a novelty, and actually hurts gas mileage (due to the need to convert gas to electricity to recharge the battery), so I haven't lost sleep over this, but it is somewhat annoying.
Is there a known problem with 2010s and EV mode? No matter how gently I apply the accelerator it pops out into ECO mode again almost immediately with a message like "insufficient charge" (or something like that), even if the battery is near full charge (I've never seen it fully charged).
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I have a 2005 Prius. After driving home from a 95K routine maintenance inspection, the car (with the display indicating 50% in the gas tank) went to limp mode and then stopped entirely and had to be towed back to the dealer. The codes pulled were
P0A0F (Engine failed to start)
P3000 (Battery control system)
B2799 (Immobilizer Malfunction)
P3190 (Poor engine power).
The techs concluded that the car was simply out of gas and the display incorrectly showed I still had gas in the tank due to a broken sender in the tank. They also said they added 1 1/2 gallons, and the car ran fine again.
However, I keep meticulous records of when I get gas, and according to my numbers I had at least 5 gallons left in the tank. Sure enough, the tech topped the tank up, which only took 4 gallons, so clearly my tank was not empty when this happened.
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