Prius (Gen 2) :: 2006 - Car Shudders On Take Off
Dec 20, 2013
Last night, my son called and said he killed my car. After I established he meant that the triangle of death was displayed, I went out and rescued him. Car shudders on take off, there is an unnatural whine while driving, and then halfway up any long hill there is no connection between the IC motor and the wheels. VSC light comes on, check engine light, not sure what else. Turn the car off, wait 20 seconds, it goes until the next long hill, then repeat. This morning, I drove to the dealers, only had this happen 4 times with one in a busy street where everyone thinks they are too smart and good looking to go the speed limit.
Late in the day, I get a call that the tranny was bad and there is a inverter code and several misfires. I noticed that the traction battery charge was increasing.
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So my story starts simple enough; I ran out of gas in my buddy's car, filled it back up, it finally started but ran like >poop< for the first 10 min or so. Finally after coaxing for 10-15 min, she stays coming around. After 30 min or so of driving, I could drive her all I wanted, so long as I didn't let it idle below 12-1500 rpm. If I did that, she'd kill, and stall out. Well I drove her the other day for most the day and it seemed the kinks were worked out. So today when I tried to drive her round the block for a final check, she up and dies, and hasn't started since. I've replaced the fuel filter, checked the intake, and dropped a can of sea foam in to the tank to boot, but no dice.Signs and symptoms seem to mimic a bad mass air flow sensor or possibly a clogged catalytic converter, with the exception that it only shudders and acts congested on low rpm's and doesn't choke out at high revs.
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06 with 5.4 and AT. It shudders in overdrive during light to no acceleration. I was told it was the converter. I was also told by a technician in a trans shop that the Trans-X additive for hypoid oil in a posi-trac was ok to use even though the back of the tube says "Not safe for automatic transmissions". Do this is accurate or if the guy was just blowing smoke?
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We have a 2008 Prius with 11,000 miles ,which is new to us for about 2 months now.
My wife and I both have noticed a "shudder of the car - when the motor shuts down" at a stop light or whenever needed. It seems a little bit more noticeable than in the previous two months of driving it.
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250 2006 Superduty v10. Codes p2106 and p2135 ... Only occasionally when coming to a stop it shudders like it would stall. It happens for just a few seconds then ok again but wrench light comes on. After the next shut off and start the light goes out. I had the throttle control position sensor checked and they said it was ok. Got a software update at Ford. I hate to just start replacing expensive parts. I have about 60000 miles and it is a great truck otherwise.
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2003 Prius starts then stalls (shudders bad) then starts right after with no problem.
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I own a 2001 prius and work on a lot of toyota . I am looking at friend's 02 prius that he got with a bad inverter . To make a long story short I checked the codes before we started and got code 3025 which can translate to a bad inverter if I am correct. The inverter pump was bad so we changed it and flushed the used inverter after we put it in. The "new" inverter seems to be working ,but we still have a major problem with the transmission I believe. The car will move , but it shudders very bad when you put it into drive and reverse both.
It appears like the engine is turning over with the transmission ,when the engine is hot and shut down and running on battery only. Yes the check engine light came on ,but have not had time to pull them yet.I know ,I know .its hard to give me info with no codes. The big question was ,is it possible for the engine to rotate when you drive the car in battery mode? It sounds like the engine is actually rotating and the engine will also rock back and forth with the car driving real slow. I know this will end up needing a transmission.
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My car has 120.000 miles and regular maintenence done on schedule. Yesterday, after a 1000 mile / 4 day trip, after a break at a service station, the engine srudded violently (for being a prius, it felt like a diesel) while cranking up durin acceleration.
The check Engine light came on.
Using Can-view, I noted these DTC codes: P0101 C3100 P0000
And cleared the memory.
The check Engine switched off.
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Just finished replacing all 4 struts this morning. Next complaint on her list:
Car Shudders / Vibrates when AC is on and in Gear (seems OK in Park). It doesn't seem to Idle up when the compressor engages......everything works fine......just vibrates a lot more than it used to.
2009 Camry 4Cyl. This is my 5th Toyota and it is the biggest POS compared to all my others. Been very disappointed in this ride.
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95 350 Tbi does well idling in park and on the highway but at idle speeds it shudders. And if i slow down to make a stop it shudders til i get my speed back up or floor it. It have new plugs and wires, fuel pump, fuel filter, air filter, TPS, IAC, new throttle body gasket, new vacuum lines. What else could it be?
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R32 with 97,000 on it. UM tune. Engine shakes/shudders a lot, no CEL. Its hard to get into gear. I bought DLI motor mounts hoping that the problem is just broken motor mounts.
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I have a 2001 BMW 330i with 218,000 miles on it. When I am driving it and am slowing down and take it out of gear sometimes the car dips down to 400 or 500 rpm and the car shudders ,not all the time, but often and then bounces back up to 700 or so where the idle should be. I've had the throttle sensor and throttle body replaced. I also had the CATs replaced recently due to the sensor saying they were basically plugged, which I thought might be the problem with the throttle, but didn't cure it.
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I have a 1996 VW Passat TDI which has a 5 speed stick (they all did). Yes, it's really old but it runs great and gets 45 mpg. However, the model is probably not relevant to this problem. My question has to do with clutch performance. When the car is cold (and it's cold outside), the car sometimes shudders starting out in first gear for a couple minutes. I have tried to be extra careful letting out the clutch in these circumstances. Sometimes that works, but it doesn't eliminate the problem. After about 5 minutes or so the clutch starts working well as it usually does.
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My Town & Country 07 shudders (best word I can use to describe the sensation) between 40-42 MPH. First repair place convinced me I need tie rods, did not resolve problem. Next place said I need struts and new tires but the problem is not solved. Why the van would do this shudder, rumble, whatever - but only at 40? If I rapidly accelerate, like getting on the highway, it doesn't happen.
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I have a 2012 Camry SE and lately on low throttle the car vibrates or shudders like if in driving thru a rough road and tires are good used a different set and still the same result.
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So I have a 2012 TDI. 55k miles on it. Maintained 100 percent at he dealer. My wife takes the car to work today and three blocks away from the house, the car shudders and shuts off won't turn back on. I go get her so she can take another car to work and when I try to crank the car, it says Engine off, Oil pressure. Car won't turn on.
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When I'm driving and i let off the gas and come to a stop, my car dips close to 200rpm below idle and shudders slightly and goes back to idle.
My car just doesn't seem to have the amount of power that it should. My roommate has a 1.8t jetta with just a few more mods than I do and his car seems so much faster. I put an APR chip in my car and i still have a lag in the throttle..my car jerks..and it just doesn't seem that my car has the right amount of power.
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So I finally reached what I considered my break in period at 800 miles and now when I give the car full throttle, it shudders like it's going to stall. I can go as fast as I want at any RPMs but when I give it full throttle it nearly goes into a stall til I let off.
I do have APR STG1 and it is in the correct setting (93 OCT) I tried putting it to stock & running it like that on my drive home & still no go, check engine light is still on.
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My car started a rough idle last night.... Pull to stop light, in gear, a/c on #1 and car shudders and acts like it's going to stall..... Went away as I drove a round a bit.....back this a.m. (after the warm up program ran) drove it a bit and was sporadic.....and even went away...then came back.....
Its worse when car is at stop and in 'D'.....little better with a/c off and/or in neutral......it finally threw the CEL today....... I had the fuel pump recall done about a month or two ago, car has 36k+ on it...... Anything I should have the service dept look for aside from what the fault codes might read?
[URL] .....
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I have a 2008 Saturn Outlook, 88k miles that shudders at 35mph when accelerating. Does not matter if the car is hot or cold. This problem (there are others) started after I had my tires aligned. It does not pull to the left or right it just shakes and shudders at 35 mph and goes away. I thought maybe it was the spark plugs, but darn if this stupid car company did not build this so you (the regular folkd) can change their spark plugs. Have to remove the exhaust manifold etc. or pay a mechanic to replace them. After this started I had to have my water pump replaced, while it was in the shop I had them run a diagnostic and nothing shows up except the water pump issue and that my timing cover needs to be resealed.
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So my cars idle has been revving slightly from 9 to 10. siting idle sometimes it will do the same but from 10-11. when it does it shudders the car slightly.
So I stop by a local auto parts and get the check engine scanned.....it comes back as Idle control too high.
So What is that? The guy working there who seems to have some knowledge of turbos said it was either some control piece or a vacuum leak.
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