Prius (Gen 2) :: 2006 - Car Keeps Loosing Acceleration
Jun 25, 2014
I purchased my Prius in late September of last year. I never had to run the A/C at the time before winter came along. The car has 102,000 miles on it when I purchased. It has run great and I really can't complain as I've put another 10,000 miles on it.
Last week during the hotter part of the day (3:30pm at 93 degrees) I pulled out of a small parking lot and pulled forward 25 yards to a stop sign. The car literally lost all acceleration as I pulled away from the stop sign. My A/C was running at the time. There were no red or orange exclamations on the dash. It just wouldn't go anywhere. I hit the stop button shutting off the car.
When I started again there was still no acceleration and the hybrid battery fan was working overtime to move air. I turned off the A/C, parked for a moment to the side, stopped and started the car, it started to move but was sputtering a little. I was only getting power from the gas motor even though I had 4-5 bars on the hybrid battery. The hybrid battery fan was still running high as I went down the road. I didn't turn the A/C back on and instead rolled down my windows.
Now we move to yesterday where I drove the 15 or so miles home from work (90 degrees at 3:30pm). My wife hopped into the car and was heading back in town when suddenly on the freeway she lost all acceleration and coasted off the next freeway exit. She shut the car off on the side of the road and waited a short while. It again had some sputtering but she was able to drive back home.
Similar scenario today. Left work around 3:30, a/c was on, temp around 87, plenty of charge on the hybrid battery. I make my usual little u-turn before backing into my space in front of the house. When I placed the car in reverse it again lost all acceleration power. The radio doesn't turn off, I still have dash lights, etc.
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I have a Sonata 2012 limited version. Lately its been loosing power while driving. It will going around 60 for instance and as I am pressing the gas all of the sudden the rmp begins to drop and the car doesn't respond to the acceleration of me stepping in the gas. It is not until I completely get my foot of the gas and re-engange again that it will recognize it and continue accelerating. It will doing whether I am going 60, 40, 20 mph.
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My 2005 Prius is 161,000 miles old and I have only taken it to the dealership exclusively for service from the start.
Right before my last oil change the warning light (red triangle or with exclamation point) came on and the oil icon came on on the control panel. It would only come on when I pressed on the brakes. I finally pulled over outside an auto parts store and checked the dipstick. It was not showing any oil at all.
I went inside the store and put in three quarts. Took the car to the dealership the next day and they could not figure out why the car had apparently consumed so much oil. In fact, their scanning did not even show the warning light had ever come on.
Odd, since there were no leaks found. They changed the oil and told me to bring it back 1,000 miles later. Today, 1,000 miles later, I checked the dipstick and found that it shows only 1/4 full. When I last checked the dipstick, leaving the dealership, it showed close to full.
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Can you glide (meaning no engine engaging) on straight road without a hill without loosing any speed over 40mph? I only can when my speed is dropping. I can drive all electric around town without EV mode, no problem.
Stock Yokohama's, front and rear @ 40psi. will bump them to 44psi. Also oil is higher the high mark, which I am planing to drain.
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Why this would happen on a new 2012 Prius II?
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I have a 2006 F250 with a 6 liter diesel I got about a hundred sixty thousand miles on it I've had it bullet-proofed haven't had too many problems with it I thought the fuel pump went out yesterday so I replaced it drove fine for a few hours then it started losing power and like it wasn't getting fuel and died I got it home took a test light and check for power at the fuel pump I don't have any positive or negative power ran a hot wire and a ground straight from the battery and hooked it up to the pump and it worked but when I plug the factory wiring back into it and turn the key on I don't have any power I checked the fuses they're fine...
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So I was driving home last night and went to accelerate and it felt like something slipped, lost acceleration and the red triangle of doom popped up. car worked fine for about 15 seconds then just the electric battery was being used.
Drove about 100 feet then got no response out of the throttle for anything. Had to push it the rest of the way home.
Towed it to dealership, been there for 3 hours and they still haven't found the point of failure. Once they give me diagnostic codes I will post them.
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2006 Prius 150,000+ miles. Tonight the Master warning light, brake system warning light, and Check engine light all illuminated on dash as well as the Hybrid System warning on the console. The car is idling at almost 40 miles per hour but does not allow any acceleration from the pedal. The engine will rev as if it wants to but no power.
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i have been hearing a rattling noise coming from the engine under acceleration only. It isn't a super consistent rattle, seems to only happen when accelerating from lower speeds. And sometimes you don't hear and other times you do. It's not a bad rattle or knock it's more of a ticking/light rattling sound that is definitely abnormal.
I know my brake accumulator is barking at me and the 3 way coolant valve is going bad as sometimes I get a constant pumping sound. I don't think these have anything to do with it but thought I'd mention it.
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I got the Check Engine/VSC/Triangle of Death errors yesterday. Autozone reports it is P0A80 (replace Hybrid battery) though no additional details reported.
I'm the original owner, and after some reading suspect it could be something else because:
1. In 8 years, the starter battery has never been replaced.
2. For about two months, the throttle has been hesitating when first accelerating (within first five minutes of turning it on). Yes, it is the hot summer months (though mild compared to previous summers). And the hesitation occurs even in the morning before things really heat up. This is definitely even worse after the error lights came on.
I've seen recommendations to replace the starter battery first. And other recommendations for "throttle body cleaning." I'm not a mechanic, but obviously would hate to have the hybrid pack replaced if it is something else.
I got the Check Engine/VSC/Triangle of Death errors yesterday. Autozone reports it is P0A80 (replace Hybrid battery) though no additional details reported.
I'm the original owner, and after some reading suspect it could be something else because:
1. In 8 years, the starter battery has never been replaced.
2. For about two months, the throttle has been hesitating when first accelerating (within first five minutes of turning it on). Yes, it is the hot summer months (though mild compared to previous summers). And the hesitation occurs even in the morning before things really heat up. This is definitely even worse after the error lights came on.
I've seen recommendations to replace the starter battery first. And other recommendations for "throttle body cleaning." I'm not a mechanic, but obviously would hate to have the hybrid pack replaced if it is something else.
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my car has tge 3.6 motor and has 2500 miles and seems to be loosing coolant...
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My Turbo Passat has slowly been loosing its A/C Power. Im thinking maybe a recharge will work. Is this complicated to do? I know they sell the cans to do it yourself just want to double check with the VW people to see if there is anything I need to look for while doing this.
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so there is no visible signs of a boost leak and my boost gauge shows normal vacuum at idle indicating its not a vacuum leak, yet in the higher rpms im loosing boost.
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I have a 2003 9.5 Saab with a 3.0 liter tdi. It has 160,000 km. The coolant light came on saying that the coolant was low, I took it to the Saab garage. They said that the ducts are compressing and that the water pressure increases in the engine and comes out of the radiator cap. According to them, it will eventually (within days or months) kill the engine. Saab does not make these engines anymore. I took the car also for an oil change which they say is not worth doing.
According to them, these engines have had problems like this (i.e. it is not a one off). We checked and do not see any coolant leaking from the reservoir cap but we see some coolant leaking on the garage floor. We check the oil and see no sign of coolant leaking into the oil and therefore do not think that it is a head gasket problem. We don't fully understand what the garage is telling us, is it a common problem ? How can we treat this ?
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Facing problem from last 6 months, brand new tiguan, car started put reverse gear then loosing power immediately, once you re-start the tiguan then everything will be alright!! Follow-ed it up with dealer but they can't simulate so no issue for them!!
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I started loosing a bunch of coolant on my tdi which is still under 36k and there is no visible leaks anywhere
Took the car to the dealer last night to get it checked out and they were ready to send me back home telling me there is no issue since they don't see any leaks under the car
Either way after telling them that I have already gone through 2 gallons of coolant they decided to top off the coolant and ask me to drive 200 miles.
I drove 156 miles last night since I need to get this issue resolved and now the coolant tank is empty again... sitting at the dealer while I'm typing this.
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I am having difficulty with my front sway bar downlinks, they keep coming loose. I have recently replaced them for the same reason with some O'Reilly Auto Parts house brands, they seemed alright when compared to the Motorcraft replacements, they even had grease fittings which was unusual for some of the others I have seen. I have torqued them down, I have tried red locktite, the only thing I have not tried is to weld them. It is only the lower nut which keeps coming loose.
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I have a 91 Grand voyager and it seems to be loosing transmission fluid somewhere but no puddles anywhere.It looses between 3/4 and 1 quart a month an shifts fine. Where could this be escaping at as I drive it? What do I need to look at since its not dripping anywhere an I snugged the pan an didn't see it there?
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I've noticed when trying to maintain a low speed (25-35mph) the car doesn't really like that... Almost feel like the brake is being slightly pushed on and off, or the car is losing power. It's been most noticeable around curves when coasting but having to give it a bit of gas to maintain speed. Shifting overall doesn't seem bad, so it doesn't feel like a tranny issue. I've also sometimes noticed the opposite. Sometimes when coasting then pushing the brake to slightly slow up it almost feels like the throttle is very slightly being pushed. Not sure if I'm having powertrain issues or just not used to the way this car drives. It just get most annoying when trying to maintain 30mph in city and the car occasionally surges a bit.
(2010 camry xle, i4, 97,000 miles)
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A few months ago I developed a slow leak in my drivers front tire. I took it to a local tire shop and they told me small sections of paint on the inner part of the rim that sits on the bead of the tire was corroding and flaking off causing a small air leak. They sanded it down and resealed the paint and it stopped the leak. I asked them if it happened to this rim, could it happen to all of my rims? They couldn't answer that, but now I think I know the answer. 2 of my other wheels now are losing air and I bet it's the same problem. Is there a recall of some kind? Dealer says since my car is out of warranty, they can't do anything.
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I am trying to find out how to disable the DRL on my 2008 yaris RS without loosing my fog lights, and if it could be possible to get the fog lights on when using the day lights.
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