My 2006 has 108,000 miles. An independent shop said one can not flush the transmission as you can not put torque on the wheels. A dealer says they have a machine to do it. Who is right? Can one flush and fill the transmission?
View 9 Repliesi have a 2010 Prius IV with 56810 miles, should i do a transmission flush ? and how many qt go back into the unit ?
View 15 RepliesI bought an aerosol can of transmission flush to flush out the cooler lines in my Ranger before I put the "new" transmission in.
Well, the can says it has a 5/16" female fitting on the tube "to fit most common transmission cooler lines" but my truck has what I believe are 5/8" fittings (the tube nuts on the cooler lines were a 5/8" hex). The fitting on the can tube ALMOST threads over the flared end of the tube, but not quite (I just want it on there so stuff won't spray all over).
Went to the parts store, found an 5/8" female flare to 1/2" male flare and that was the closest I could find. I'll take it home tonight and see if it fits. They had almost nothing for a 5/16" flare.
I have a 2006 Toyota Prius, it has 283000 miles and still running strong on original battery and engine.
Lately, I noticed that when I fill the gas tank the check engine light comes on after 2 days of driving. After I get under half a tank, the check engine light will turn off. the check engine light will return after 2 days of filling up.
Other than that, there is nothing wrong with the car. And I get 55 mpg highway and 45 city.
What is the cause of this and you think this could be a serious problem?
Looking for any good videos of flushing the transmission out of an 1997 F150. I'm having a hard time locating the input and output lines to the radiator. I don't know which it is top or bottom one...
View 11 RepliesBought the Camry new in May 2006. Besides the oil hose leak (which a recall fixed), it's been a perfect car.
Fast forward to the present. I needed a brake job, so my master mechanic buddy installed front and rear powerslot rotors and akebono performance pads and flushed my brake fluid. No problems with the brakes.
A few weeks later I wanted to treat my car to a 90K full transmission flush (it's first transmission service). I had it flushed at a local toyota independent shop. They used WS fluid. A few hours later, my transmission which shifted perfectly fine before the flush started shifting weird. I thought the computer had to relearn my wife's driving style. When she brakes hard (if she's going 50 and the light turns yellow and she brakes hard, her car slows down normal, but right before it comes to a complete stop is when the car shakes. She said it started right after the transmission flush.
A few days later when she was at a red light, the car check engine lit up with a check battery (she thinks that's what it said on the screen). When the light turned green, it wouldn't accelerate, but it would roll forward when you let go of the brakes. When she got to a safe place to park/stop she turned off the car. A few minutes later she turned the car back on and it was fine.
I told that to one of my buddies who had something similar happen to him in his 06 Mustang GT, the Ford dealer cleaned his throttle bottle and maf sensor and he was on his way. I had my throttle body and maf cleaned. Now with new brakes, new brake fluid, a flushed transmission, a clean throttle body and maf, I thought everything was good.
On the freeway , the car would not shift to 4th gear or higher. So I exited the freeway, drove the surface streets to a independent Toyota shop. Left the car there all day, they could not find anything wrong. So, right now everything is back to normal except the shaking when you are almost at a complete stop, which started AFTER the transmission flush, what that might be?
To describe the shaking problem, imagine I'm driving 45-50, light turns yellow, I slow down, 50-20 is fine, maybe even 50-15 is fine, but the car shakes right before it fully stops.
I have a 2002 Kia Rio Cinco, (named Simple Jack) with about 150k miles on it, that I have been bringing back from the dead. I've replaced the shocks and struts, brakes, wheel hubs, wheel bearings, part of the brake line, the timing belt, motor mounts, fan, valve cover gasket (needs to be redone because my mechanic got sloppy), spark plugs & wires, windshield and wipers, and the radio. I sound proofed the interior, pulled the seats and carpet out and power washed them. I am also doing some body work on it. Normally, I am pretty good at troubleshooting the problems, but not-so-much doing the actual repairs. I tend to panic, and get paralyzed by the fear that I will break my car worse than it is.
The first was about doing a transmission fluid flush. I got the filter and the transmission fluid and while my ex-mechanic was breaking my car the last time, I asked if he could do the flush. He said he would not do it because the transmission was too old and it would break the transmission if he did it. Since the fluid looked dirty and probably had not been changed for a while, his logic was that the parts had a layer of dirt on them that would be flushed away with the fluid change. This would interfere in the operation of the transmission because the parts would no longer be able to make contact with each other.
At the time, this made sense to me. However, after some less than stellar repair attempts, I have some doubts as to the validity of his claim. So I am asking you all if this makes sense.
The second question is a problem with rattling. I had purchased the tie rod ends, front stabilizer and bushings for the suspension. I asked my mechanic to change all the parts when he did the front shocks and again I asked when he did the front wheel hubs. He said that I didn't need the crap. So my car has a weird rattling when I drive. It sounds like it comes from the top of the engine, but at speeds around 60mph, I have some vibration in the steering, too. I am concerned that something may be wrong with the steering or maybe it's just the alignment. However, I think the rattling may be independent from the vibration. I have not been able to determine the cause of this and my plan was to just keep replacing parts until it is fixed. I figured I will have a new car by the time I am done. What I can check next? Should I do the tie rod ends? The bushings? The CV joints? I know I need a new mechanic.
After changing the timing belt and water pump I want to change the coolant. Stupid to have no temp gauge so I got a scan tool connected. Been idling 20 minutes and it hasn't gone above 189 degrees. Assume it has a 195 degree thermostat. I put fresh water in the radiator but still don't see it mixing with coolant in the block as if the thermostat has opened.
View 6 RepliesFirstly I have a I4 2007 Camry LE with 102,000km.
I just did a drain a fill on the transmission [I didn't check the level before draining, but i should have]. While draining I did measure how much fluid came out and it was roughly under 3 Liters.
I refilled exactly 3 Liters. Checked the level and it was above the HOT mark. I though i filled up too much but after driving the car for 10-15 mins i brought it back on full level ground, ran it through the gears and checked the fluid level, the level dropped down to the COOL reading.
To be certain i left the car on level ground all night, checked in the morning and sure enough the level jumped back to above the HOT mark on the dipstick.
I have checked every day since the change and every-time I check the level when warm it shows around the COOL marking on the dipstick. Does this mean that my oil level is low?
This is the first drain and fill i did on the car, and as I mentioned i replaced the exact amount that came out.
On my 2011 Prius maintenance schedule, there is plenty of direction about inspecting brakes; however, there is no indication of when to flush and replace the brake fluid. My wife travels 60 miles/workday, but hits her brakes about 6 times/day. I would expect that normal braking would result in pad replacements more regularly than we are going to have. I did most of the 60K inspection, but took the car to a trusted, local mechanic for undercarriage inspection and a professional look-see. They indicated that the brake fluid should be replaced every 3 years, and I OK'd a flush and refill. Is there any professional guidance on the replacement interval? I know there are a lot of opinions, but I wonder if there is any published authority.
View 15 RepliesI have a 09 Honda Accord manual transmission V6 with 59K miles. Recently, it seems to stick a little going into 3rd gear - only third. Called our local dealer's service department who said I should have done a drain and fill on my transmission fluid at 30K miles. I have driven manual transmissions for 30+ years and have never heard of this - but this is my first Honda. The owners manual is not very specific about this maintenance recommendation. Did I create unnecessary wear and tear to my transmission or is my dealers service tech just working to humble me?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2002 F250 SD 4x4 w/5.4. I drained the front differential gear lube and refilled with 2 qts of gear lube as specified in my owners manual. Actually the manual says 1.8l / 3.8 pts. The fluid level is not up to the fill hole and if I stick my little finger in the hole I can barely get any on the tip of my finger. The owners manual says these capacities are for F250/350 w/ Dana 50 axle. It then says F350/450/550 capacity as 2.7l / 5.8 pts with a Dana 60 axle. My question is should the fluid level be up to the fill hole, as with the transfer case and rear end levels? Could I have a Dana 60 with the higher gear oil capacity in my F250? Whats the proper gear oil level?
View 4 RepliesDaughter got a new car 2010 accent gls. It burps fuel after every fill up (after the fuel nozzle shuts off like it should) and runs down the side of the car... sounds like hyundai has problems with this on a few different models. This is the first non-gm vehicle in our family. I grew up working with them and driving them and know them well.
Anyway, looks like 3 different parts here:
Having this same issue on my daughters 2010 Accent GLS. It burps up fuel after the fuel shuts off on the pump. Which exact part do I need?
-Vapor Canister
-Vapor Canister Purge Valve / Solenoid
-Vapor Canister Vent Valve / Solenoid
I'm assuming it's the vent valve solenoid, I've got the part on order. Looks easy to replace and I will be pulling the canister box down and taking a look when I replace it. I'll check everything with air (blowing into it etc...).
On a side note, combined fuel economy is 36.5mpg. I would expect that though, small engine, small car etc...
I understand that filling up with gas when the car is running is not recommended. I did it once without realizing that it could cause issues. Now I am trying to determine if that action has anything to do with the CEL being on. The codes are P0442 and P0456. The codes have been cleared several times but the light pops back on after a while, anyway from one day to a week later.
Smoke test did not reveal any issues. My question is this, can filling up with the engine running cause any physical problems with any of the EVAP components? What would be the most likely problem? I plan on buying a new gas cap, since it is cheap. I do not wish to spend a lot fixing this problem.
My 07 has difficulty starting, only after adding fuel, or a fill up. I thought at first it was due to over filling, but it occurs after adding any amount of fuel. If I leave the car running while attempting to fill up, it sputters and dies. I have to press the gas pedal to the floor to start it, and it sputters for a few minutes, then runs fine, and starts fine until fuel is added once again. I searched and found where the General mentions a Vapor hose, but could not find more.
View 2 RepliesSo my sonata 2.4L has been freaking me out lately. Once it has been driven and warmed up good, it starts to idle rough at rest at lights and in traffic. Now the crazy thing is it idles even more rough if I switch it into neutral during those stops. One more thing is it idles the worst after I fill up with gas and get stopped at lights.
So what I have done:
Cleaned the MAF sensor with MAF spray
Changed spark plugs (I4 so it comes with coils not plugs)
Put Lucas Gas treatment in
So I'm getting no check engine light. So all I can think of is fuel filter. Or some other sensor. I mean I know it could be a coil so that would be the next thing I check. What this could be?
I have an issue that keeps recurring intermittently that I cannot seem to figure out. The car is a 2006 Sonata with a 4-cylinder and about 130k miles. It started about 6 months ago when the check engine light came on 25 miles or so after a fill up. The code shown was P2097 (Post catalyst system too rich.) I reset the light by disconnecting the battery. I tried adding some gas dryer and premium fuel and that seemed to work, but the light would intermittently come on. I also replaced the spark plugs (put dielectric grease on the boots) and had the exhaust system checked for leaks. I also put in fuel injector cleaner several times and cleaned the MAF sensor. In April, the light was coming on quite often, so I replaced the post catalyst oxygen sensor and reset the light.
The light stayed off for 600 miles or so and then came back on. This time the code is P0420 (catalytic converter efficiency). An exhaust system shop said that there does not appear to be anything wrong with the exhaust system including the catalytic converter itself. The car does have a slight miss at idle, but performs fine other than that. Also, if the car is not driven for a few days, there is some valve train noised when the engine is first started which lasts about 5 seconds.
I have a 2006 Hyundai Sonata with a 2.4 liter 4-cylinder engine. After filling the gas tank, the car idles roughly, but accelerates and performs fine at higher speeds. The rough idle lasts about 5-10 miles and then goes away.
Six days ago, I changed the spark plugs and air filter. Four days ago, I filled up with gas (and had the same issue with the rough idle). This morning, I started the car and idled it for 2 minutes while I scraped ice off the windows. I drove the car about 5 minutes and the check engine light came on. I took it to Autozone and the code given was P2187, System too lean at idle bank #1. "
Autozone suggested that it could be an air intake fault (MAF sensor), fuel pressure, or vacuum leak. They also said they have a MAF sensor cleaner to try. I am not sure if the rough idle after fill-up and check engine are related. Also, I don't know if the spark plugs or air filter could be related to the check engine. I was planning on making some easier checks first such as hoses near where I worked last weekend, especially near the air filter. Cleaning the MAF sensor is easy too. I was also going to check for vacuum leaks (incl. intake manifold) and recheck the spark plugs.
I have the strangest problem on my 2006 Audi A6: whenever I fill up my tank with gas the car has a very hard time starting. This has happened 3 times in a row now. I run the tank fairly low - to about 1 quarter tank or a little lower but never to empty....then I fill the tank. When I get in the car to start it, the engine just keeps turning over trying to start but will not start. Then I stop trying, let the ignition rest for a bit, and try to start it about 5 minutes later and it starts just fine on the first try.
What could be causing this?One thing that has also started happening around the same time as the problem above is that when I'm idling at a stop light, I notice the car may start to idle roughly and seem like it is about to die out. I am the first and only owner of this car...I take good care of it and am an easy going driver. But I do drive a lot and have about 200,000 miles on it after 7 years.
This happened a few times on my 2006 Prius but never for this long. I had a half tank of gas. Filled it up (maybe a little too much). Now the gauge is stuck on a half tank even thought it is actually filled.
I drove 55 miles and it still reads a half tank. Is this indicative of a systemic problem or normal operations? It is cold here in the North East US. So I'm sure that has something to do with the gauge not resetting?
I'm sure it's been asked before but why even show the gas level and claim those miles in the range. Also is there any way to tow this thing and while I'm here is there any way to use a floor jack on these.
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