Prius (Gen 2) :: 2006 AC Compressor Won't Come On To Accept Charge
May 31, 2016
2006 Prius 104,000 miles - 9 months ago the AC started blowing "not cold" air. I put a can of suitable 134a WITH the correct oil in-and it blew cold for about 6 weeks then the weather became a bit cooler-and my son drives it - so I ignored it as it cooled less well.
Yesterday I tried to recharge it again-no go-the AC literally seemed to be blowing HOT air, the compressor wouldn't come on. Guessing so much 134a is gone that it won't come on-just like a regular AC. How can I trick the compressor to come on so it can accept the charge.
Yes I'm aware the orange covered cables are 200+ volts. I can't - couldn't find any compressor fuse?? I found a A/C fuse under the dash-but it was just 10-15 amps-12 V amps probably-so no way is it the compressor-110 watts-?? Must take 1000 or more watts to drive that compressor.
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My 2006 Prius battery is not holding a charge very well. About a month ago I had rodents in the engine and had both my stereo and wiring harness replaced at the dealer. I've noticed that every morning the Energy Monitor screen shows only 2 purple cells left in the battery. It always recharges as I'm driving it, but then it loses its charge after siting still a few moments. No idiot lights are on. I've done the DIY system check mode and everything says OK, except audio- it shows "check" in red. Also, my 12v battery is at 11.9. (I replaced my original 12v battery several months ago with no problems).
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My daughter recently bought a 2006 Prius with 170K, Car was running great at purchase time with no issues but unfortunately the honeymoon was short lived. Less than 50 miles, she got the check engine light and red triangle. Car seems to still to drive fine. Had a dealer near Knoxville TN pull the codes and the only code was a P0A9C - Hybrid Battery Temperature (Sensor A) Range / Performance. Was informed also as they checked history on the car that another dealer had recommended a new hybrid battery and inverter. Dropped by the other dealer today to get the codes that they had seen. The codes they had pulled at 169K on the vehicle were:
P0A80 - HV Battery Cell Delta State of Charge Fault.
P3016 - either a bad cell, or a shorted cell in the hybrid battery
P0A08 - dc/dc converter status circuit.
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I recently worked on a 2006 with 140K miles that presented with the following symptoms:
The hybrid battery was at 1 bar; the ICE would not start; the car was in Ready, but there were no codes. As I let it roll off the flatbed wrecker in Neutral, it felt lumpy. If you have ever pushed a car (or run out of gas in one) with a manual transmission that was in a high gear, engine off, it felt just like that.
I popped the hood and could see that the engine crank was turning while the car was being pushed in Neutral. What else turns with the wheels? MG2, or more specifically, the MG2 ring gear. What is the only way that the wheels could turn the ICE crank? The planetary carrier pinions were locked to the ring gear.
Surprisingly, while I was looking at things, it did manage to start the ICE pushing it around must have freed the carrier pinions, so I let it charge the hybrid battery. It was basically the worst metal-to-metal noise that I have ever heard! I pulled the drain plug and saw about a teaspoonful of large metal chips on the magnet. The fluid condition itself was very good, not the black factory fill that I am used to seeing come out.
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I just found out that the air conditioning compressor is broke in my 2006 prius and its going to cost $1800 to fix it.. I am not in the loop here but that seems ridiculously high. I mean i save money at the pump but all that money just went out the door if i get this repaired. I am really contemplating trading the car in rather than deal with that expense..
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By changing the region for the instrument cluster in Module 17 (VAG-COM) to Europe or UK, it removes the accept screen. Well, I did that, and it works, but then immediately I get the ABS light on and the ESC doesn't work, and then the parking brake light goes on and says there is a fault. If I change it back to US or Canada, everything is back to normal. I'm just tired of having to press "accept" every time I start the car and want to use my steering wheel controls for volume and such.
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I can only pump a little gas into my tank at a time, and only to half tank. I have not been in any accidents and checked underneath for dents - nothing appears to be unusual.
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I have a 2006 Ford F250 Superduty 4x4 6.0L Diesel with an alternator/battery problem. We have charged the batteries (had them tested at auto zone), and replaced the alternator and still cannot get the batteries to keep a charge. I'm not talking a slow drain, with the ignition switch on for less than a minute it drains about 4 amps and the truck dies. We also noticed a trouble code "TBC fault" and discovered that was to do with the trailer brakes. Disconnected the trailer brake system (have been noticing a "check trailer" warning occasionally recently). What could be causing such a massive drain on the batteries?
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Gasoline backs up in the filler neck while pumping. I've disconnected the vent tube on the filler neck and disconnected the hose going to the canister next to the fuel tank. I've let the engine run during fill up, but this does not change things. Violently shaking the truck while cursing only provides entertainment to other motorist at the pump. I gave up my career as an auto mechanic in the 80's when cars were being made out of metal.
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First and foremost, I love my Touareg....when it works!!
Problem # 1 : I have had it at the VW dealership in Pensacola, FL 7 times to fix the flat tire sensor. They can't/won't fix it. Once you start the car and get rolling it will go off. It will go away and come back on several times for the first few miles. I have also noticed that after temp changes it becomes more sensitive. I have checked the manufacture's tire suggestions and they are dead on.
Problem #2 : The battery will die if the car is not driven in a day or two. I just had the battery replaced a month ago and thought that it was the issue. I have checked to make sure that I do not have any accessories plugged in and it still happens...i.e. car phone charger, ipod, radar detector.
Problem # 3 : This maybe in conjunction with problem 2. I just recognized that the information display above the steering wheel will not turn off when the car is locked and not in use. This just started and will surely drain the battery.
Problem # 4 : The navigation system comes on-line when the vehicle is started. It asks for the user to input an agreement at the beginning of each start. The navigation will no longer accept any inputs. The volume work for the radio and that's about it.
Problem # 5 : The steering wheel controls for the display will not work. When you try to page through the information display on the steering wheels right hand corner it does nothing. The rolling wheel for the radio on the steering wheel also does not work.
I have had so many problems with my ride that I am ready to light it on fire. It looks great in the driveway and that's about it. I realize that the majority of my problems are possibly connected.
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How to disable the "accept" button EVERY time you turn the car on? Or the Seatbelt dinger -without latching seat belt?
or why the car has such a jerky shift and braking to it with regards to the gear box? V8 T-reg?
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How to turn off the Accept button on the NAV? or the annoying chimes? can/will the dealer do it?
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I have a 1997 Grand Am GT and plan to replace the ignition lock cylinder with a used one. If I change the lock tumblers to accept the old key, can I avoid having to reprogram?
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How to charge a USB device from the 12V socket indirectly to avoid the prius ground loop.
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I've been told that my 12V battery was low.
I stumbled on this ATV/ motorcycle battery companion in the garage, can I use it to charge my prius?
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I've never even used the port yet. If it can charge cellphones it will make my upcoming trip easier.
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During the last few months I noticed that I could no longer charge my Verizon Cell phones (the original Droid and the most recent Samsung). Interestingly, the phones vibrate when connected and display the icon that it is charging. However, after 6 hour trips, the phones are not charged at all. I have tried plugging the chargers into both the places where these chargers can be plugged into. Neither work. Initially I thought it was my charger and bought another one. No luck. So I bought a third charger at another store. Still no charging.
Then my wife and also my daughter connected their phones to the various chargers in my 2006 Prius and in each case it stated that the phone was charging but they did not charge. Then I connected the same phones to the same charger and to the cigarette lighter in my Mercedes. The phone charged. Same with my wife's phone. Clearly, this has something to do with my 2006 Prius. My dealer determined that the voltage from charger is 9.5 volts when the car is not running and that the voltage is 14.5 volts when the car is running. how to determine what is causing this odd behavior?
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I've had the car for about 24 hours. I love it so far. My one question seems to be that the battery doesn't seem to charge all the way up. There seems to be room for 2 more bars to be completely full. Is this normal? Something to be concerned about? How this works, but if it is supposed to be full to the top, I probably should go back to the dealer?
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I'm wondering if there's a way to force the ICE to charge the HV battery, either while standing or driving. Currently, EV Mode kicks in while coasting down a hill, and I would rather use those moments to effectively charge the battery rather than trickle charge with what little gain that gravity gives me.
I know there was a way on other models to charge the battery while standing by depressing the accelerator in park (or in drive with the brake depressed), but neither method works with the 2015 Prius C. The battery continues to drain while the ICE runs in park, and it refuses to run in D or B while the brake and accelerator are pressed at the same time.
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On the Gen III Prius, is the Battery indicator that is displayed on the HSI an actual 0-100% charge indication of the battery?
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I've had my C a week and a half and it is doing great, but I wonder if the system is ok. It has never shown the battery at 100%. My Civic would charge all the way quite often.
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