Prius (Gen 2) :: 2005 - Wrong Type Oil In Engine?
Jun 7, 2015
i have been using 5 w30 in my 2005 Prius with 155 k. Made a mistake of picking up 5 w20 this last time. I have 4k on current engine oil in car. Both are full synthetic ..I change I change my oil every 8 k and the oil filter, at the halfway point 4k . Plan to go back to 5 w30. Would it be advisable to switch back to the 5 w30 now, or run car another 4 k, when oil change is due.
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I recently saw what appears to be glue or some type of paste coming out of my engine. I think it may have been there the entire life of the car, but I'm not sure. Is this something I should be worried about, or should I let it slide?
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I have a 2005 v6 ford mustang and lately the rpm and the gas gauge have been misreading. At first the it was the gas gauge that was reading off then the rpm gauge soon after. However, sometimes the rpm gauge will be working right but my gas gauge is just completely wrong. The other two gauges are working just fine( temperature & speedometer) ...
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Was having problems with trailer wiring blowing a fuse so I pulled a fuse, the wrong fuse, out while it was running and the whole rig died. Key was locked in the ignition. Window down, ect.. The dash lights and radio works that's about all. vagcom will not hookup because I can't turn the ignition on. The alarm goes off if I open any door......
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I have a 2008 Prius. In 2009, I got into a collision, and the car required extensive body work. This week, I took my car to the mechanic to repair the air conditioning system - only warm air was blowing out. According to my mechanic, the compressor went out because the auto body shop put in the wrong oil in the air conditioning system and re-installed the fans backwards. I got my car back today, and the air conditioning works really great!
However, my family spoke to their mechanic (different person from my mechanic), and he indicated that used compressors are dangerous due to the high likelihood that contaminants will be leaked. This sounds completely ludicrous to me. My mechanic said that the other mechanic's concerns are unfounded.
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Display says i have only used 5 gal of gas, but i only have two blips left on my gas gauge. Something has to be wrong.
Wonder if something is wrong with my tank.
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CEL came on. No performance issues or noises coming from the car this time around. I did notice that after parking and killing engine, there is a faint exhaust-type smell though. I took the car to my local Advance Auto Parts and had them hook the car up to their computer for a diagnostic. Two codes came up.
1: P0431, warm-up catalyst efficiency bank 2 below threshold pending
2: P0431, warm-up catalyst efficiency bank 2 below threshold confirmed
The AAP employee didn't have anything to add to the code readouts. I'm concerned that this is a catalytic converter issue, and if that's the case, a repair would likely cost more than I'm willing to put into the car at this point. It has just over 125K miles on it.
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I Am in the UK in time zone (GMT +0) i noticed this morning on the Sat Nav that my estimated arrive time was an hour forward of where it should be.
eg it was 8:10 the journey 35mins to go and it was showing on the left hand side of the screen arrival time of 9:45. only when i went into the Nav settings and changed it to (GMT -1) that it showed the right ETA but surely i shouldn't have to do that.
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I've been hearing a loud whining type or sucking noise out of my engine bay every time i give gas its louder then my exhaust almost when coming to complete stock .. Its been happening since i bought the car at 50k now it has 79k .. should i be concern or how can i fix it.
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Last night returned from three hour trip in my 1994 volvo 960 station wagon and there was a loud whistle type noise from engine area, this morning started car and the noise is gone. I have not driven car yet? I just drove car a few miles yikes whats up ! constant alarm type noise from top rear area of motor !
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I just purchased a 2011 Prius III with the built in navigation system. I also have a BMW 335i and am able to type in a destination in the nav system while driving. I noticed I can't do that with the Prius nav system and can only do it while parked. Is there anyway to bypass this.
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How to enter the hidden diagnostic screen on a 2010 Gen III Type V with Nav?
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I am planning to install the WebElectric DRL-2P ( Sequential Turn Signals, One Touch Turn Signals, Challenger Sequential Taillights, Sequential Tail Lights, Mustang, Dynamite Stick Sequential, Pulsing Brake Light Pulser Flasher, One Touch Convertible Top, Dynamite Stick, One Touch Turn Signals, Dayt ) which uses the front turn signals as a DRL. Because the turn signal lights will be on all of the time, I am going to convert the turn signal bulbs to LEDs.
This will require changing the turn signal flasher (I don't want to use a resistor because of the current draw and heat issue), since the LEDs are seen as a burnt out bulb and causes a quick flash. What is the location of the turn signal flasher on the 2010? There is a thread for the 2009, but I am not sure it is the same. I would rather not take panels apart until I know that what I am looking for is underneath. What is the correct flasher to use? The closest I have seen is: LED Flasher Unit CF18-08 Specifications
One final question: Where can I locate a circuit in the engine compartment that I can tap into which is live only when the car is in the "Ready" mode. I want to use this as the trigger to turn on the DRL circuit. I have seen people suggest the windshield washer circuit, but was wondering if there is a better choice.
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I have a Lacrosse that has 110,000 miles on its engine. The car has has regular maintenance and oil changes at suggested intervals ( 3000K). 2000 miles into this oil change, The engine developed a clunk type sound. I checked the oil and it was dirty so I took in for another oil change. I was quite surprised to hear that I needed a new engine immediately. They could not tell me what had failed but I was in need of a $4000.00 engine transplant.I requested that they change the oil and give me back my car. I have taken it to another shop and they concur with shop one. Shop two took it to a third shop while they had it just to confirm. After the oil change, the repetitive clunk became a persistent tap. Is my engine really going to implode in the near future? Is there anything that can be done to extend the life of the car?
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I have a 2003 Jaguar X-type that gives me trouble when the temperature drops below 32 degrees. I have to warm it for at least 10 minutes. During that time it coughs and sputters and my check engine light flashes. Once the light stops flashing I am able to drive. What is going on?
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Had my R for the last 2 months and just recently have noticed a quiet ticking type noise (e.g tuck tuck tuck tuck tuck) at low revs (1500) 1st/2nd gear. What this may be? it seems to be coming from the top right hand side of the engine.
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I bought this Subaru used with 350 000 km's on it,and I haven't added that many kilometers to it yet at all. For some reason whenever I drive on the highway and get my speed up to about 120 the front left part of the car (somewhere underneath the hood I believe) starts to make a loud gurgling type of noise. I know that the suspension on that front left tire is missing, but I don't feel the rumbling on my steering wheel and I don't think it's coming from there.
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Yesterday after about a 2hr drive as soon as I got off on the interstate exit and started to slow down my Explorer made this horrible sound that almost sounded like a power drill or the engine over revving. Then it did it every time I would slow down for anything after that. At first I thought it may have been the transmission so I took straight to a tranny shop, and by the time they got around to looking at it (several hours later) they said they could not find anything wrong with it and could not reproduce the noise. So I started driving home and about an hour into the drive it started doing it again. It only makes the noise when you take your foot off the gas. As soon as you touch the gas pedal it immediately stops. Someone told me it may be the bearings in the tension pulley, does this make sense ?
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For the past 2 days my car has started beeping when I open the door after I push the power button to turn it off. It flashed a red lock type symbol in the lower right side of the screen as well. What this is? I can't find out in the online dash indicators. The beep stops when I push the door lock down and shut the door.
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I recently had to replace my drive belt on a 97' dodge grand caravan sport 3.3 engine. The belt shredded and this is how i knew i had to replace it. Since i replaced it i notice a whine type of noise that increases in pitch as the engine is accelerated. The other thing I've noticed is that all electrically related operations work better as it is accelerated. For example, the air blows harder, the wipers move faster, and the lights brighten. Now i honestly can't say that it didn't do this before i changed the belt. I wonder if a bearing is going out on a pulley. I have noticed the same behavior on my daughters 98 sable. Also note that i did get all of the pieces of the old belt out from the pulleys and i did spin each of them to make sure the were moving without any resistance.
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I just bought a 2010 F150 XLT XTR SuperCab 4X4 with a 4.6L 3V engine. I had a 2003 5.4L and a 2004 V10 before and this new engine seems to be nosier then the older ones I've had. It's a ticking/fluttering type noise I here when I'm standing outside the truck while it is idling. Is it normal for these newer 3V engines to make this noise? My wife has a 2009 Hyundai Santefe and it makes a similar noise just not as loud. Does the 5.4L make a similar noise also?
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