Prius (Gen 2) :: 2005 - Slipping Feel When Car Goes From Gas To Battery
Nov 5, 2015
2005 prius with 172,000 miles had a rebuilt battery about a year ago and still holds a full charge when parked during the week..I drive this on weekends. When starting out the charge is still full (in the green).
As I drive the car the first few miles the battery drops into the purple and slowly recharges to full again. When the car goes from gas to all electric there's a delay/slip and the battery rapidly discharges again than builds itself back up..
It still gets around 45 mpg.. Could there be other bad cells or is this a CVT problem? (I doubt the fluid has ever been changed and I don't think there is a filter to clog).
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I've just about had it with this car:
- Car always had a "mushy" clutch feel. Not proper pushback against your foot feel.
- brought in several times under warranty, all was fine (documented by several dealers) from Jun- November 2015.
- Clutch then goes out at 52k, slipping in high gears. Dealer noted the pressure plate was blackened/burnt. June 2016
- I replace clutch at dealer, $1700 later. Pressure plate, slave cylinder, clutch disc, resurfaced flywheel. Pedal feel is awesome for about a month. Pedal "mush" comes back 1000 miles later. July 2016
- Take it in under the 12k warranty again, and they replace clutch master cylinder. It's about 60% better, but pedal will lose pressure occasionally and at higher altitudes (over 4000 feet) July 2016
What else haven't I replaced? And would a failed clutch master cylinder cause premature clutch wear if not replaced for months?
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I have an 04 2.7 litre V6 AWD Santa Fe with 189235 KM , with a Shiftronic transmission, recently, while in "d", the transmission would feel like its slipping or perhaps trying to down shift, its hard to tell what it's doing really, but if you then slapped it over into shiftronic, it would operate fine, no slipping, locks into gear strongly, indicating that its not mechanical, but related to the computer controlling "drive" function of the transmission, I flushed the transmission just after the symptoms arrived (using the correct SP3 fluid) and this made no difference, the old fluid, although ready to be changed, was not burnt or blackend. I thought of getting it reflashed ( read it online) but I am not sure it will work, especially if its like a sensor or something.
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I have a 2005 Prius with 110,000 mi. Sometimes when I accelerate the ICE (gas engine) simply spins (as if the clutch was slipping in a convention car) and there is little acceleration and the gas engine doesn't shut off when coasting or braking as it always has in the past. The battery screen shows it is not charging when this happens and is at 1 bar (purple). then sometimes the hybrid battery gauge will go from 1 bar to fully charged (green) in under a minute or 2 and then show discharging just as fast which isn't possible. It goes away after a restart sometimes but then happens again soon. Is it the TP sensor, Hybrid battery computer or ? I have gotten all kinds of codes including P0a93, P0a80, P1400, P040a.
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My wife and I purchased our 2005 Chrysler 300 Limited in May 2004.Our 300 has over 117,00 miles as of May 2011. It has been a rather dependable automobile.I have enjoyed it almost as much as my HD. We have performed maintenance as close to the schedule as possible.
I failed to drive the car as often as our second car is an used 2002 S430 which had been my primary auto until about two months. My niece and nephew reported to my wife that the car was not "doing something right". No one could really explain, so I had drove the vehicle myself to determine the issue. The transmission had the feel that it was being "slammed" into the next gear without any clutch. Once the car was warmed up, it appeared that when it shifted at 38-40 mph or 48-50 mph, the car shudders. It almost resembles the feeling you get when you run a car across those strips in the road.
I took the car to the dealership where I have had it serviced locally. They replaced a module which had Technical Service Bulletin from Chrysler for noted similar problems. The first module replaced did not resolve the problem. I took it back and they tried again with the end result being same as before I took the 300 into the shop, transmission appeared to shudder when shifting at the midrange gears.
The dealership as another option recommended that the transmission be replaced. I was not confident with their assessment as I had the distinct feeling they were not clear on the real issue.
I took the car to another service shop which I had more confidence in their work. I asked that they check the car for the problem with the transmission as I wanted their assessment. At this point, I had pretty much decided that I would get rid of the car, but did not want to give anybody else the troubled vehicle nor did I want to have to rush to decide on an automobile to purchase.
The second shop recommended the transmission be replaced, as well several other items be checked as there appeared to be oil leaks. The CAM plugs had been replaced as part of the service the dealer performed though the engine area had not been cleaned of the previous oil. That news was alarming, as the price estimate for a replacement engine was around 6500-7000 smackeroos, way outside of my comfort for repair on the car.
I was able to locate a used transmission with only 86k on it through a very gratuitous turn of fate. I digress, however, as the source for the used transmission was available only to licensed shops.
Two shops had referenced a transmission repair shop as one of the best in our small county. I left the car with the transmission shop for their testing, and it came back with their recommendation that the problem existed in either the coil or spark or an area related there.
I again took the car to the second shop and asked that they check the engine thoroughly for any issues with the spark plugs, wires or similarly related issues. The shop reported that the motor compression was at 190 across all six cylinder and the spark plugs and wires were new and there were no issues with the coils.
I am most happy that the engine is in excellent condition. I have planned to take the car back to the tranny shop as I reported the findings to him of the other shop. I am concerned about the transmission, though I am driving it about 60 miles round trip to work about 2-3 days each week. It still convulses at the mid-range shifting but otherwise runs pretty good after that. The car body is in very good shape as is the interior.
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Recently purchased a 2005 F250 6.0. I noticed that sometimes when I brake it feels strange...like ABS activating in rear or something. Usually at 15-30mph when braking right after accelerating. Its a bit difficult to explain. I'm planning on getting a break inspection soon.
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I have a 2005 Prius that I purchased in 2010 as the second owner. When I first got it, I would average 50-65 MPG depending on city vs. interstate (per trip computer). After about a year, I was usually in the 40's. However, in the past 6 months or so, the MPG has dipped drastically. Based on the trip computer, I average about 30 MPG on the interstate and 15-20 MPG in the city. I have read that often times, a dip in MPG signals a need to change the 12V. I tested the 12V, and it's usually around 12.4V after sitting unused for 12+ hours.
More info: -The poor MPG is consistent whether it's 95, 65, or 35 degrees outside.
-Flat terrain (Washington, DC)
-Usually shorter trips of about 20-25 minutes.
-75% city, 25% highway. Highway driving is pretty smooth, little traffic, average of 55 MPH. City driving is incredibly stop and go due to traffic, constant stop signs and red lights, etc., with probably an average of 15 MPH when I'm actually driving.
-No overfilled oil.
-Had an alignment maybe 8 months ago - nothing unusual about the drive or tire wear.
-Goodyear Viva 2 Tire P185/65R15, maybe 15k miles put on them. Tire pressure unknown at the moment.
-I drive like a grandma in D mode.
-I don't warm up the ICE.
-HVAC is off.
-In terms of whether any significant changes occurred around time I noticed the drop: none. I was living in Florida at the time, doing a highway commute of about 2 hours roundtrip every day with a small bit of city driving when the mileage drop occurred. I have since relocated to DC, and the problem is the same.
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A friend of mine has a 2005 Prius, and was asking what his mileage would be when the hybrid battery dies. He has about 131k miles on it, and the battery dies out very quick right now. I told him that with a 1.5L engine, he should get at least 40mpg with the hybrid battery being dead.
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My mechanic installed a new Hybrid battery in my 2005 Pruis using the repair manual and a video that showed him how to do it. He also replaced the harness and the ECU battery. When he tries to start the car all of the lights light up on the dash but no ready light on the start button and the car will not start. The instructions did not say anything about this issue so he is lost! He thinks the smart key and the ECU have to be synced in some way but doesn't know how to do it.
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195k miles.... I have charged the battery, I have bought a new battery, I have Charged the new battery... All with no avail.. Slowly but surely one at a time the abs trac control and stability control lights come on and eventually the triangle of death... Meaning when I shut it off its not going to restart.. If i drive it sparingly it might take a week if i drive it all day then it takes one day... when fully charged there is no warning or sign that there is a battery issue or draining untill the voltage is starting to get low. I have an ultra gauge hooked up and shows 14.14 while driving, I am lost as to whats the issue. also no codes or pending codes... I have taken the new battery to auto zone and had a functional test done.. said checked good... signed befuddled
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I inhereted a prius 2005 and need some education. It has 75000 miles and the battery level stays between the green and blue mostly. I was stuck in bad traffic and as I watched the battery level sucked down rapidly - to the point that I started turning it off and on to save on the battery - is this normal? Is there some switch/button i should press in this situation? I couldn't find anything in the manual.
Also - is there some technique in driving that would charge the battery better? I have just used my first full tank of gas and my mileage was 48 miles/gallon, so I'm pretty happy. I will be driving 30 miles each way to work, mostly at 60/70 mph - but as we know, traffic jams happen.
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The MFD on my 2005 prius shows that every time the gas engine kicks in, it trys to charge the batt. even when it doesn't need to be charged. This has been happening for about 2 weeks, and not one time has the gas engine kicked in without showing the arrow going to the electric motor, even when the batt is completely full. I know it's not just a problem with the MFD because my MPG average has clearly gone down since this started.
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A year and a half ago, I had the hybrid battery warning lights come on and had it towed to the dealer. After given the option of replacing the battery for $4300, I took it home and did a single cell replacement (all cells ~8V, one at 6.6V which I replaced), which seemed to be all good until yesterday. Back with the warning lights and blower fan, I jumped to the conclusion that I have a similar situation, removed the battery and all cells are 8.04V +/- .05V except for 1 cell at 7.92. I am not convinced that this cell is really the culprit.
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My Prius has 150k miles on it. We didn't drive it for a few days and when we went to turn it on,it wouldn't work. We were able to jump start it a couple of times, however after that we ended up having to replace the battery. We purchased it brand new from toyota. Then, the car wouldn't do a thing (No sounds, no lights, other than the red amber power button and the flashing check engine light, which was not on before.) We ended up having two blown fuses and we replaced them today, one was for the battery.Now the lights are on, but the car still won't start. It will cost over $200 to have the car towed and I am really trying to avoid that right now. I don't know much at ALL about cars. but I'm trying.
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My 2005 prius will not start. We had some body work done to it after a deer ran into me. They did a small amount of welding and had disconnected both batteries. Now the car will not start. It can be put in auxiliary mode but if you try to start it with your foot on the brake, it flashes some lights for a few seconds and then goes dead. Is the hybrid battery too low to start the car? It was pretty low. before the batteries were disconnected. Or did they possibly do something wrong when they disconnected the hybrid battery? Final question would be do they have to do some reprogramming after disconnecting the hybrid battery?
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Well all the lights are on for mine as well as of 2 days ago... checked the 12v, was at 11.8v, tested under accessories load (without engine on) and went to 11.4v then tested with the car on and we're at 14.2v
So just to be safe I went ahead and got a NEW 12v and installed it yesterday. All the lights went away immediately. Drove 30 minutes to the town over after the install... fine.... it sat off for about 1 hour.... drove it back home another 30... perfectly fine.
This morning the wife takes it to work, starts the car, all the lights on again... turns it off completely, then turns it back on and all the lights are off and then drove it to work just fine.
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If this has been posted before feel free to remove. I searched everywhere and didn't see exactly what I experienced with our Prius when the 12v battery was in it's final stages of death so I wanted to share.
Below issues all occurred within a one week time period 3-7-16 to 3-14-16. 2005 Prius with 145k miles, replaced traction battery on 7-30-15 / 127k miles.
First occurrence - happened a few seconds after starting and driving the vehicle. The ABS light came on and the power steering faded out and then came back, just briefly, and the car did not die. Turned the car off and back on again and all was well.
I performed the 12v battery test by entering maintenance mode. (hold the display button and turn the lights on/off three times, vehicle signal check, battery check) the battery was reading 11.9volts with the car off, I drove the car and it was charging at around 14.7volts and then was reading 12.2 with the car off after driving it. Which at the time seemed a little weak but nothing that was a red flag. I've read that you're supposed to replace the 12 volt battery every 4 years but I swear the one I removed looked stock.
Second time - again happened just a few seconds after starting the car and driving. ABS light came on, red triangle of death light, brake light, power steering was gone, and the power steering light came on, the car did not die. Restart fixed the issues again.
Third time - Happened about 30 minutes in to the trip while the wife was driving on the interstate around 75mph, wipers were on due to rain but visibly lost power, radio came on and off, all the lights on the dash (warning lights included) flickered on and off, power steering was gone, car died completely and would not restart. Tow driver had to boost the battery long enough to put the car in neutral so we could load it on to the tow truck. When we got the car home the battery was completely dead again.
I ordered an Optima Battery 8171-767 (DS46B24R) YellowTop Prius Battery from Amazon which appears to be a direct replacement, and simple to install. I drove the car for a few miles, returned to the house, performed battery test again via maintenance mode and the battery was charging at 14.0 and reading 12.5 when off. I can't be certain but I think the battery check feature may be displaying false information if the battery has dead cells and the car is trying to charge the battery? I took the old battery to Advanced Auto Parts and had them run a diagnostic check and the tester stated that the battery had dead cells and needed to be replaced. I gave them the old battery even though I didn't buy the new one from them and got a 10.00 store credit, unexpected and nice.
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I have two Prius's, a 2008 and a 2005. My 2005 with 129k miles on it is the one in question. Recently I got a check engine light with the code P0A80 and P3016. I purchased a pair of tested to be good cells from Ebay which finally arrived in the mail yesterday. Today I finally got around to installing it and everything was pretty self explanatory... One of 28 cells tested to have 6.24v in block six and all the others had between 7.98-8.00v all around. I went ahead and replaced the bad cell with the new one and put everything back together and now the car will not start.
Cliff notes: Replaced bad cell in main battery back due to CEL P0A80 and P3016.
Car will not start, only turns on...
Getting error message on the radio screen about the Park position is not correct and to park the car on a flat level ground with parking brakes and try again.
Have charged the 12v battery to make sure it has enough juice in it.
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I replaced the hybrid battery in my 2005 Prius today & when I disconnected the 12v battery the wrench arced & I assume that I blew a fuse. I have looked, but have not found anything. I hope I am missing something obvious.
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My car is an 05 and currently has 219,000 miles. Runs great. Only things I've replaced are the 12 volt battery and the rack and pinion. Replaced the rack because I was trying to drift in the snow and tried to beat the traction control. Needless to say, I lost and hit the curb. Jammed the gear in the left side of the rack. Replaced the rack with a $75 used one and no problems since.
My issue is this, even if my battery is at 6 bars when I first take off, my hybrid battery drains down to even as low as 1 bar. It only got down to 1 once but is hitting 2 regularly. After about 3-10 miles it is back to the regular charge rate. I also noticed the other day with the window down, there was a slight whirring sound, almost like a gear or wheel that is a gummed up and is being slowed down. It also felt like there was resistance, almost like the brake was dragging. After a few miles, as in less than 5, the noise was gone and the car was going along just fine. I've checked the emergency brake to see if it's dragging by applying it and releasing it several times. Does not appear to be the issue. Today I put it in neutral to see if that changed anything but it did like it always does and just coasted along fine with no resistance. My thought is the transmission. I'm wondering if the fluid it so old and broken down that maybe things are gumming up. Either way, I purchased the tranny fluid and will change that out. I know people will probably gasp but I have never changed it. Actually thought because it's a cvt and there is no dipstick to check it, that it doesn't need changed. After reading up yesterday I discovered I was mistaken.
I think that's about it. I'll edit it if I think of something more. Once the battery is back up to charge it accelerates and drives like normal. I do want the car to last so my daughter can use it when I buy the new Prius Prime.
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My 2005 Prius started showing all the symptoms of a dead/dying hv battery this morning. The dashboard lit up, the battery fan kicked on and my mpg dropped to 35mph. I was half way to work, so I just continued. I have been checking around and I can get it replaced for about $1000.00 reconditioned, but they have a 7-10 day waiting list. The dealership wants $3500.00 minimum, and says that I should not drive it at all and have it towed. Is this true? Can I drive on gas alone until I find a solution?
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