Prius (Gen 2) :: 2005 Side Swipe Caused Locked Electrical System
Mar 5, 2012
Our 2005 Prius was side-swiped and now Electrical system is apparently locked due to safety feature ?
Even though car was (otherwise) very driveable we had to have it towed.
Is there a way to reset this?
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I have been hearing a rattle from the left side of the car. By accident I found that when the rear left sunshade is extended the rattle goes away. When it is retracted it seems to sit in the door frame perfectly. My 05 Treg has 5000 miles on it and I have had this problem for the last 2000 miles.
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I purchased a Bluetooth ODB II scanner off of Amazon which had all positive reviews, plugged it into my 2013 Prius this AM and the car immediately started beeping with the "Check Hybrid System Stop The Vehicle In A Safe Place" error. The car is functioning just fine but I'm concerned.. Is this normal? Should I have not plugged it in while the engine was on? I want to see if I can clear the error but I'm afraid to plug the module in again...
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My 02 F250 is killing batteries. Also, when I try and lock the doors with the door lock switch, the doors lock then the driver side door almost immediately unlocks.
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After 3 years and couple months my red prius in faithful service, i finally got by the wind noise everyone is talking about...
At first, I suspected the license plate frame was the issue and also checking around the front end to see if there's are anything that stuck in the bumper gap, wheel wall, and underneath the car but the noise still there.
Finally today...I do actually found it...I tested by either removing or putting on a new 3M tape over one of the screw hole underneath the door site mirror. Over time, some will peel off or break losses and the "gap" is the source for the high pitch noise when you driving fast enough on a road. Mine happen at around 55mph.
Ever since I remove the sticker, the noise gone. One thing I'm not sure why there are factory stickers there. But I decided to remove it because I saw water inside the 3m tape after raining.
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Ok so I got a good deal on a used F350. When I got it home I found the heater was stuck on defrost. I posted on here a few weeks ago with questions on what could be wrong. From that post I learned that my front passenger side hub is stuck locked in. I pulled the vacuum lines at every connection from the pump on and had good vacuum all of the way to the passenger side hub. I turned the axle shafts and found the drivers side is free the passenger side is locked.
I flipped the dash switch and heard the drivers side hub lock. Then I turned the axles again and found they were in fact both locked in. I flipped the switch back to 2H and the drivers side freed and the passenger side was still stuck locked in. So I pulled the passenger side hub off of the truck and found it was seized up. I put it back together and locked both hubs in manually until payday when I can pick up a new hub.
Yesterday we had a lot of ice! Where I park the pickup the front wheels drop into a low spot. I could not get backed out of my driveway with the front wheels in the hole and the rear wheels on ice, so I flipped the switch to 4x4 and tried again. It still could not pull out, the front wheels didn't seem to engage. Now I am thinking I have more troubles than just the one hub stuck locked in.
So, my questions now are, 1 if the passenger side hub is bad but both are locked in it should still go into 4x4 correct? 2, the 4x4 light on the dash lights up when I flip the switch. If I had a bad switch or fuse would I still get the same result (light on and drivers side hub clicking in)? Does this pickup have to move a few feet before it engages the 4x4 or should it click right in? And finally what is a short explination of how the 4x4 system works. The dash switch engages the solenoid on the firewall to switch vacuum down to the hubs but what else does it do? I assume it has some kind of switch or motor in the transfer case that engages the 4 wheel drive?
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Recently my a/c in my 2007 prius has been on the fritz. Some days it chooses not to blow any air at all. Others it will blow upon start up with cool air. I just took a road trip and it didn't work for 2 hours then magically came on blowing cold air. I took it in to the local shop to see if they could figure out the issue. To my disappointment, all the "parts" appear to be in good working order. The technician said that the electrical system just wasn't getting to the blower motor and that I should take it in to Toyota.
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My fab works just fine (to unlock the doors) and I can lock the doors with the key. My problem is that for about 1 month, when I hit the lock button on the fab, all the doors lock but then the driver's door immediately unlocks. You can hear the doors lock, but then you hear the driver's door lock unlocking. I have to manually push the lock button switch (on the driver's inside door) to lock all the doors (and then the driver's lock unlocks, once again)... and then i manually push the lock on the driver's door. This is driving me CRAZY because basically I cannot lock the drivers door without going through this step. I have had the car for years and have never had a problem.
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Seems we see people asking from time to time about Diagnostic Trouble Codes(DTC) in the range of P044x and P045x - Evaporative Emission Canister Control.....
There are many of these codes in this range and mention is often made of faulty vacuum switching valves(VSV) along with a long list of other possibilities. I spent a little bit of time researching this and on occasion would find a comment or two by more than one tech that this problem can be caused by overfilling the gas tank. Their advice was as soon as the pump stops, pull out the pump and refit your gas cap using the correct amount of clicks(varies depending on the age of the car).
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2005 Super Duty 350. Getting ready to get my truck DOT-ed and I noticed the front amber side marker and parking lamps are not working (both in the headlight assembly). There is a fuse called "exterior lamps" that I believe these are on, the fuse is fine and all the rest of the exterior lamps on the truck work fine (all other markers, clearance lights and I.D. lamps on that same all inclusive circuit). Is there a special relay or something else I'm missing for these four front bulbs?
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I got home from work today and pressed the power button to shut the car off and the car completely died (door locks and open door dinger worked) and would not restart after multiple attempts. The dash was completely dead. I waited a couple minutes and it started just fine like normal. I went straight to the dealership that does the maintenance to have them look at it and the service manager pretty much told me that they couldn't find anything wrong with it. I have since started, driven and turned it off a few times since without any problem, differences from normal, or warning lights. This is the first time anything has ever acted up after 98500 miles.
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I just changed the alternator this morning. Hook battery back up now cranks wont start no security light flashing no security light blinking at all. When turn ignition over gauges do not swipe don't remember if they normally did or not but now they do not swipe as in speedometer and RPMs. I've also been having trouble with the no windows no radio. Just driving down the road and radio cuts out and power windows hear a click under the dash radio coming back on Windows work again research and see if it's in the battery save circuit inside the dash cluster wondering if this is causing no start now.
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My 96 F-350 Crew Cab driver rear door lock is stuck in the locked position. I don't have a cause but do now notice that the pass door lock will not operate with the lock/unlock switch. The rear solenoids seem dead. Front door locks are working.
I tried to put a 10-32 coupling nut on the lock riser and pull. The down position is now 1/8-1/4" higher than normal. This thing is really stuck and is really bad.
So before I start pulling the rear seat and trying to remove the door panel from a closed door; how I might unlock this door? It would be a lot easier to get the panel off if it is open.
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I've had my F350 SD for 6months now(21,000 mi) and have seen probably 20 times when I insert the key and turn the switch on the windshield wiper's will make one swipe when NOT turned on. Also have seen several times when starting the truck the radio comes on and it was not on when I turned the truck off. Yesterday when I finished work and was heading home I started the truck and the wipers came up about 1/3 of the way and stopped. I can't seem to duplicate the problem so I have not scheduled it in as of yet.
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I have 6600 miles on my Prius. When I first go my prius I increased my tire pressure to 40 psi. At 5000 miles I got an oil change and my checkup. Took a road trip of 400 miles and got 53-54 mpg.
Just before my fill up at 5500 I put a screw through my front passenger tire. The last two tanks of gas I have only gotten 45 mpg and was ready to take the Prius back into Toyota and ask them to fix whatever they did to the car.. To make a long story short I decided to check the tire pressure on all the tires again. Three of the tires were at 40 psi and the one Toyota fixed was at 35 psi. I inflated the one tire to 40psi and not I'm right back where I was on the mileage. 52-53 mpg.
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We took our 2008 Prius in for a check engine light. The dealership said oxygen sensor was faulty. Changed that and had them change the serpentine belt while there due to cracks in the belt. My wife filled up the car the next day ( it took 13 gallons) but gas gauge was not registering a full tank. We drove 67 miles and I decided to pull into a gas station and see how much it would take since the gas gauge was not working properly. It took over 7 gallons.
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Just back from dealer. Been having red triangle and assorted warning lights come on. Diagnosed as above. Been sent to body shop to have them find leak and repair. Electrics 2007 .
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It's a 2006 with 135K. About 3 weeks ago I had a tire separation that caused significant body damage to the bumper and left front fender. I had the tires replaced, but left the damage, for now, as it's only aesthetic.
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I have a prius v, bought July 2014. Car was on the showroom floor and needed jumped and to sit on the charger for awhile before they'd let me take it home. The dome light got left on this past weekend 4/11-4/12/15 for about 28-30 hrs. The next day it wouldn't start, had it towed. The tow truck driver could get the lights to turn on and everything power on inside, but the engine. It wouldn't do anything. We got it into neutral. It would only go into neutral and park. Toyota said the battery was completely fried which they replaced under warranty. They then said due to the dome light being on, causing the wiring to overheat and fried the wiring. I need to replace all the wiring which isn't covered under warranty. Is this normal?
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I bought a truck a few months back with a Dual Electronics XDVD710 7" pop out touch screen. The radio work and all the screen pops out but the screen is back with the backlight on and doesn't show a display. If I hold info a text comes up that says brightness and I can adjust it but can't seem to do anything else and I would really like to use it especially since my speakers are way out of tune! I read somewhere that they might be locked out and need a special code but I also lost the remote. So i'm down to either just buying another stereo or if it is locked out just getting the remote to put a code in.
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I have a 2005 Prius the navigation system stopped working. When I press the Map button, the screen displays "the external system is not connected" also the voice came on and said voice recognition is off. Could it be a fuse or need to reset? It was working fine then just went black. I restarted the car a few times but still no work. Also where is the player at on the 05?
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