Prius (Gen 2) :: 2005 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp Came On
Mar 1, 2011
I pulled my 2005 Prius out of the garage today and parked it on the driveway. When I went back later that day to pull it back under the garage, nothing would work and the "Malfunction Indicator Lamp" came on. I was thinking my battery in my key had gone bad and replaced it. When I tried to start the car for the second time the engine would not turnover, the clock light looked dim, the locks would not work and my headlights would not come on.
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My 2004 Prius won't start for the first time in its 45,000 miles. First try only the malfunction indicator lamp went on. After a pause and a few tries later, the fuel gauge and gear indicator cluster flashed on and off while I was attempting to start (fuel indicator racing across its grid and gear indicators outlined with "dotted" lines -- tank is 1/2 full BTW).
Later tries got no response except the malfunction lamp. I tried both keys in the ignition, also checked door lock functions, and found the keys will still lock the doors, but the click is noticeably weak and the unlock function doesn't work.
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I have a 2008 Prius with about 34,000 miles. While I was driving yesterday the malfunction indicator lamp came on. I returned home (was 20 miles away), but did not notice anything wrong while driving. Thanks to Priuschat, I found discussions that said to check if the gas cap was on correctly; sure enough, mine was not on tightly. I've just put the cap back on, but when I started the car, the malfunction indicator still came on. Will the warning light clear on it's own (if the problem was the gas cap).
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I have an 08 prius with about 36k miles on it. Never had a problem other then getting the water pump replaced under warranty during scheduled maintenance.
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I bought a 2001 Prius from a private seller after they had just replaced the Hybrid battery with a Gen II battery and it has been running great until the last few days.
First the Malfunction Indicator Lamp and Master Warning Light came on and my husband and I took it to a dealer. The dealer said the error code was P3000 but didn't know more than that. He said he didn't know if the v12 battery currently in the car is the correct battery and he said it looked like it wasn't secured correctly. He said I would have to take it somewhere else to have it worked on.
When we picked up the car everything was normal again and none of the warning indicators came on. After driving it for about 80 miles both warning indicators came on again. I continued driving the car 15 miles, turned it off for about 5 hours and when I turned it on again only the Malfunction Indicator Lamp came on. At first my gas mileage was unaffected but now it has decreased slightly. I usually get about 41 mpg and I'm getting about 37-38 mpg since we picked up the car.
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On my way home from work tonight, the master warning light and the check engine (malfunction indicator lamp) appeared on the dashboard, and the hybrid system warning light has popped up on the multi-informational display.
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Car is running fine.. I cant tell any changes in the car at all. Going to the dealer to get fixed and also make them fix my darn headliner that has supposedly been on backorder for 3 months now.
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Yesterday (Saturday), I stopped to get gas in my 2004 Passat. I left the gas station and forgot to put the gas cap back on and close the gas cap door properly. I drove about 2 miles home and then noticed I had left it open so I closed it. I didn't drive the car anymore yesterday but then took it to church this morning and when I did, the malfunction indicator lamp (yellow light that looks like an engine) came and and remained on. I turned the car off and then restarted it and it remained on.
When I looked in the owners manual, it says this is related to the emissions system. On other cars I've owned, not having the gas cap on tight can cause the "check engine" light to come on so I'm basically assuming the equivalent happened here. Any way to turn that light off easily? I assume it would go out over time and/or the next time I get gas as has typically been the case in other cars I've owned (including a 2000 VW Eurovan). The car runs fine and doesn't seem to have any other issues or problems.
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I just starts my 1999 VW Passat (manual) today, and the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) was on. The car is shaking the most when I change gears, then it shakes but it's ok when I'm driving. I saw it could be bad, and I shouldn't drive the car. I drove to a VW dealer garage to fix it.
I just wanted to know what it could be, if you had the same problem and what it was. Also how much it should be too, etc. I know that my engine was hot yesterday, it was smelling a bit burned after a couple of very steep hills in San Francisco, I was using a lot the first gear because of stop signs and cars behind and in front of me.
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So 3 weeks ago, I noticed the malfunction indicator lamp came on. I immediately went to the Auto Zone and have them use the diagostnic device to identify the "malfunction". The device pulls out "p1136 manufactured controlled fuel and air metering." The guy said it could be the gas cap being loose so he loosens it and tightens it. He said he would erase the message and advised me to go to an auto mechanic shop if the lamp light shows up. That evening the light lit up.
I haven't driven that car for approx 3 days then I drove it to go get gas. After I got gas, the light disappeared. I dunno why. It stayed disappeared until several days later. So, i am wondering...is it a big a problem? can i still drive?
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Yesterday I changed battery after that its seems malfunction indicator lamp stays on, i checked with hyundai service center they told to reset the program then diagnose the problem, then only come to know the issue or not issue they asked 20rial, i m wondering just changed the battery got some issue.
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Out driving the other day and suddenly lost power and dash illuminated the EPC and Malfunction Indicator Lamp. Did a bee line to my home and experienced loss of power and engine vibration. At traffic lighta it emitted large quantities of white or blue smoke that smelled like gas.
Connected to VCDS and had 4 codes:
000768 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
000769 - Cylinder 1 P0301 - 000 - Misfire Detected - MIL ON
004874 - Cylinder Disabling
000135 - Fuel Rail/System Pressure
My assumption was a bad coil, so I swapped them but no joy. Then decided to swap coils and plugs and observed cylinder #1 was filled with gas. Siphoned it out and it was able to fill about 1/4th of a beer bottle, or 3 ounces. Top of piston #2 looked slightly wet, but the origin could have been overflow from #1 via intake manifold. I'm thinking #1 injector stuck in the open position. Car is out of warranty so it may be on my dime unless I can convince dealer that this is power-train or emissions related. Best case, I need one or two injectors, oil replacement from gas contamination, plugs and labor. I thought about the worst case and it could be the above + a complete short block + catalytic converter. No tune, 100% stock
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Have a 2000 F-150, 5.4L. Once recently in a parking lot, it would crank but not fire or start. Wife called me to come get her. By the time I got there, she said it started "after she loosened the gas cap & re-closed it." But, it started fine for next several weeks. Yesterday it didn't. I read a bunch of threads here on possibilities. Many troubleshoot items I checked out or had done.
Chilton manual says you can get limited error codes from the light on dash flashing - MIL - Malfunction Indicator Lamp Method.
For now, I'm trying to find the 2nd, separate, one-wire lead "near or with the (main) Diagnostic Connector." They call the single wire / connector the "Self-Test Input connector" (STI). You're supposed to use a jumper between that STI & the upper, right connector of the main diagnostic connector. Then you (may) get flashes corresponding to codes via the key on, engine off method.
I see no such single wire lead or connector anywhere near there. Not up under the dash either - stuck my head under there & used mirror. There's a separate connector (not in use) clipped on the L side of the main diagnostic connector, but it has 5 pins inside. I took pics, but forum says I "may not post attachments." Been a member for yrs. That extra 5 pin connector faces toward firewall.
There's an "empty hole" - 1/4 in. (facing forward) in the bracket that holds the main diagnostic connector. Just above the main connector. Not sure if something was ever there
If no one knows how / if the Malfunction Indicator Lamp Method works or where the jumper goes, I'll be forced to buy a code reader w/o researching which are decent or crap (around $200 or less). I maybe? could wait to order one online (if knew which one). Also have AutoZone, O'Reilly, Advance, NAPA, PepBoys & others locally.
* The truck shows a check engine soon light, so should be a code already. * Yes, I tried her loosen / tighten gas cap trick.
* Also put a slow charger on for a while & even used the fast start setting on charger. No go, but engine turns really fast.
* Crawled under the gas tank & listened for fuel pump to activate when key is turned to Run.
* Fuel pump made a small noise - more like a relay or "clicking" - not a whine or whir.
* Checked most fuses - under dash & hi voltage box - that have anything to do w/ fuel pump, PCM & several others - mentioned in similar threads here.
Can't really check relays & don't want to just start replacing parts. I don't have a code reader & reluctant to buy one from local store w/o some reasonable research. (I don't mind buying one, but...). If I could drive it to the auto store, I wouldn't be asking this. Chilton's doesn't say if this malfunction indicator lamp method will work if a vehicle won't start. But, a code is already thrown.
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There is an arm that has come loose and is in between the spring in the right rear wheel well area and I cannot find what its called. It comes out from the center of the car and down and has an upside down cup which belongs on a post with 4 little contacts. Additionally, my brake lamp indicator light was intermittently coming on and off after braking. Now that I have put the cup back on, the lamp is off. I want to be sure there isn't anything else missing from this part, but cannot find the name and am concerned as to how it came off its post to begin with.
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In my one-owner purchased-new 2005 Prius w/ 74K miles and w/ no maintenance/accident history other than doing all scheduled maintenances at Toyota Dealers along w/ recalls applicable at each time (other than we had Toyota replace the 12V battery last year just because I knew it would die at some point anyway and I don't like pushing my luck; I'm not 100% certain if there's been a recall on any water pump for this car and if so, don't believe the dealer has mentioned it), I have the following indicators which appeared all at once while I was driving along at around 45 MPH in no unusual circumstances (80F, dry afternoon, about 30 minutes into a trip of mixed speeds, no loads in the vehicle, no effect on the car while driving):
From Left to Right on the display:
1) Red Triangle - Master Warning Light
2) Orange (Symbol)CHECK - Malfunction Indicator Lamp
3) Orange (!) - Brake Warning Light (but it didn't highlight the word 'Brake' in red)
4) Orange VSC - Vehicle Stability Control Warning Light
On the Screen:
Orange Car w/ the ! symbol - Hybrid System Warning Light
We immediately aimed for the house (about 5 miles away); the car drove perfectly fine, with the engine stopping and starting at lights as needed, with speeds going from the 55MPH we were traveling at the time of the alarms down to 0 and back up thru 35/45 MPH and such per normal off-interstate driving. The battery currently shows all the blue bars, and the engine and hybrid systems showed charge/discharge as usual as we drove. There was no discernible change in the driving reaction of the car to brake, steering, accelerator, etc.
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I have a Gen III Prius with 13,000 miles. It is less than a year old and I just got the Hybrid Malfunction indicator...I'm a bit upset about this and am wondering what it means. I'm not going to be able to take it into the dealership until next week, and was hoping to get some information about the indicator. It's a blurry shot but it is an exclamation mark with wavy lines below it.
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My 2010 BMW 335i is at 25,000 miles and the brake pad indicator lamp is on. Is a full brake job necessary? Any estimates?
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I got this exact warning Monday which is discussed in this thread (linked below) and its problem was a bad inverter water pump while mine seems fine: . Also in the linked thread another whom had gotten the exact warning, but inverter pump was not the problem, believed it meant the Hybrid battery was bad and replaced it. , but mine, at least for now, as discussed below, seems fine.
was about to make a trip, 140 miles, gassed up and when leaving station all these (quoted below) warning lights came on. and the car should have been operating in cold condition still as gas station was only a few miles from home. :
Master Warning Light, Malfunction Indicator, VSC, (!), and Hybrid System Warning on Screen.
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Yesterday, I was driving home in EV mode, PHEV on, about 80°F, no hills, not accelerating, SOC about 4 bars, about 1/2 mile out, when it dropped out of EV mode, and then I got the red triangle and the check engine light. Today I grabbed the code with an OBD2 reader, and got this:
Freeze Frame Information:
1. DTC for which Freeze Frame was Stored - P0A92.
2. Engine Coolant Temp - 138.20 °F.
3. Engine RPM - 1,888.00 Rpm.
4. Vehicle Speed Sensor - 14.91 Mph.
5. Intake Air Temperature - 96.80 °F.
6. Time Since Engine Start - 101 Sec.
7. # Warm-ups since DTC Cleared - 74.
8. Distance since DTC Cleared - 706.50 Mi.
9. Control Module Voltage - 13.69 V.
10. Ambient Air Temperature - 80.60 °F.
11. Accelerator Pedal Position D - 30.98 %.
12. Accelerator Pedal Position E - 46.67 %.
13. Time since DTC Cleared - 30 Hr32sec.
Does this happen because it's in EV mode? Do I just have to put up with it every so often? (This is the second time it happened.)
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I have a 2008 Prius with 106,000+ miles on it. It was running fine till 2 days ago, I didn't start it yesterday and today when i went to start it, I get the Hybrid System Malfunction light, along with check engine, the red triangle and TPMS light. The gas engine tries to start up, then 1 second later makes a grinding noise and turns off.
I am in Toronto and its cold, but not THAT cold yet. So I am doubtful its temperature related. I checked the fluids and they all seem to be sufficient (engine oil, radiator fluid, power steering fluid). I didn't notice any leaks under the vehicle either.
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Just received the first recall on my 2011 Malibu - #13036 a brake lamp malfunction. Interesting thing is that I replaced the bulb just 14 days ago. But it could be a bit bigger issue than just that.
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