Prius (Gen 2) :: 2005 - Intermittently Noisy Coolant Storage Pump
Mar 27, 2012
I have an 05 Prius with pump issues. My coolant storage pump has been making an intermittent coarse squealing noise since I've owned the car. It seems to be worse in cooler weather. It only happens when turning the car off. Does this pump only operates after shutting the car off? If that's the case, then I won't worry too much about it. If it's supposed to function when the car is on, then I may worry. Does the pump keep running until it's finished, or is it just a timed cycle? I'm concerned if there's air in the line, it may prevent the pump from completing it's job if it's on a timed cycle. Also, if I have to replace this pump, how would I go about bleeding all of the air out of the system?
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My MIL has been intermittently showing up, and I'm pulling DTC P1151 - Coolant Heat Storage Tank. This is the only DTC that I'm getting. I have recently replaced the Coolant Control Valve, as I had been getting a P1121, and attempted to refill the coolant myself.
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I'm getting a noise that sounds like "woooooooooo" from the right front of the engine compartment when the outside temp gets below about 20F and I just start the car. The colder it gets, the longer the noise lasts.
I suspect it's the pump that's part of the CHS. Just a very wild guess. The noise goes away when the car starts to warm up. No drive ability problems.
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My 2006 prius has 102,000 miles and the coolant pump for the thermos is getting alarmingly noisy.
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I got a warning light that the Toyota dealer said indicated that the Coolant Storage Assembly tank had gone bad. It's not leaking, just not working. It's a very expensive fix and in the little bit of research I've done I'm wondering whether it needs to be fixed. My understanding is that it takes warm coolant and stores it in a thermos-like container to stay warm a few days to assist cold starts. However, I live near San Francisco and the weather is very mild here. We might have a few below freezing days in the winter, but for the majority of the year nights are only 50 degrees, and usually only 40 degrees n the winter. So, do I really need this fixed? It seems that since the weather here is so mild it should be fine. BTW, I haven't fixed it since the light went on in January and haven't had any problems starting the car so far.
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Just want to make sure I'm naming the part correctly. It's a pump that between the radiator and the block. It stays on after the car is turned off. This is on a 2005 GLI 5 speed tip.
Lately, its not turning on. If it does, it's just for a brief moment and then turns off. After some searching, I've read post of other asking about by-passing it. Would that be a benefit? What's gained from that? I understand the pump is on while the engine is running, does it provide additional cooling? I'm planning on checking it out this weekend and wondering if it could be rebuilt? Could you guys indicate which vendor on the web has the best price?
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It's been over 90 degrees. Triangle lit up with check engine and I know the inverter coolant pump is a common failure, so hoping that is the culprit. I could take to O'Reillys and scan it to see if I get related codes...but don't want to drive until fixed. On my previous gen 1 prius the pump failed and it drove poorly...lacked power (from what I remember). Maybe even cut off once or twice.
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Having seen the rather catastrophic outcomes that are possible with inverter coolant pump failure, I've thought a bit about adding a flow sensor in the coolant path. I even went so far as to buy a flow sensor, which would probably do the job. However, it's somewhat heavy, and then there's the plumbing job to take care of. Seemed somewhat challenging to pull off.
Since this aborted endeavor, I began thinking about ways to detect surface turbulence at the top of the coolant tank, and am now thinking that might be easier to pull off, even if it requires programming a PIC to do the monitoring. My current thought is to install an LED and optical sensor in the cap, and measure light intensity received.
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I'm sitting at my Toyota dealer where I bought the car 3 weeks ago. My car is in because it needs to have the engine coolant pump replaced due to a leak. Is this a common fix for the gen 2 Prius? Fortunately this is getting covered under warranty.
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I picked up a 2003 that had a bad AUX battery and P3130 code. Just FYI, aside from the battery it drives fine. Kicks the Warning light after about 15 miles but since the battery was bad it kept getting reset. Replaced the battery with a nice optima conversion.
Took out the inverter coolant pump, tested the circuit (good), tested the pump (bad). Replaced with a new one from dealer. Set up the bleeder tubes and massaged the lines till the new pump stopped SCREAMING at me. Added probably 2 qts of TLLC total. Bleeder tubes never had enough pressure to push fluid back up to reservoir but got solid 2 inches of fluid with no bubbles. Topped of the coolant. Went for a drive around the block, made it halfway (about 28mph) before the light kicked in and the motor seemed to bog down. Limped back home and read the 3125 Code. Code reader does not give me sub codes.
2003 Prius 154K miles on ODO.
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I'm a new owner of a used 2008 Prius. Car only has 67K miles and other than the leak, appears to be in good shape.
I noticed the coolant was low in both reservoirs, filled it up (with the proper SLLC), but a day or so later the check engine light came on. Took it to mechanic (dealer is 2 hours away), he read and cleared the codes, then found the leak. Appears to be leaking where the lower hose attaches to the pump, so not sure if it's the pump or the hose that's the problem. I've also noticed that the pump seems a bit noisy for a few minutes after shutting off the car (of course, I'm new to the Prius so not totally sure what "normal" sounds like).
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Prius 2009 inverter coolant pump failure 51,300 miles....
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My 2006 Prius with 120k miles has coolant seeping around the water pump. I called around to get quotes on replacement cost, but one place said the thermostat should be replaced at the same time, while the other said it shouldn't. (BTW, I will have the belt replaced at the same time).
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Got a check engine light with a P2601 error code this morning - Coolant Pump Control Circuit Range/Performance.
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My check engine light is on and I think the inverter pump is shot. I have a some questions about how and when the pump is on. I have a mini vic on order and as soon as I get it hooked up I'll run for some codes. That is if I get it installed????
1- With the car in "ready mode" and at start up (car cold) should the inverter coolant pump be running.
2- With the car in "ready mode" Should I always see a water moving in the water reservoir.
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We seem to be getting reports of failed inverter coolant pumps here on just about a daily basis. I'm wondering if they're all just failing now or if this is something of a "backlog" of failures that started in Winter but are only really being detected now.
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My 2007 Prius with 162k miles had an Inverter Coolant Pump Failure Monday 6.5 hours from home when my wife was driving it home from a trip. Red Triangle, (!), vsc, and check engine light. She was able to make it about 20 minutes to a dealer where it was diagnosed. Luckily no further damage was done to vehicle. Yes, she should have stopped but continued on since car was driving OK.
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I own a 2006 JDM prius with 323,000 km. The inverter coolant pump failed recently (got P0A93 code and no agitation in coolant reservoir). I ordered a replacement on eBay and am awaiting arrival. I may need to do some light driving in the in the interim and am thinking about installing a 10 inch fan in the space between the inverter/transmission and radiator to keep things cool. Is this wise or should I just let the car sit until the new pump gets here?
Also, I am burning oil...I usually have to top up 1 to 2 quarts in between changes. Is there anything I can do without tearing down the engine? A friend of mine suggested using Lucas oil stabilizer the next time I change oil...could this have any negative implications?
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After a long day at work, I stepped out of my '06 Prius and was greeted by an obviously struggling CHRS pump. It sounded like it was having a hard time maintaining speed, and to my ears was screaming; better replace soon...
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I have a 2009 Accent GLS. The PS pump has become increasingly noisy, especially when the car is first started and when the steering wheel is turned. The noise is coming from the belt and when it does this it looks like the PS pump slows down and the belt is being forced through by the water pump. I bought a new/remanuf pump; however, the PS pressure switch thread diameter is smaller than the hole in the new pump and does not fit.
I took it back and tried another pump and same problem. Looking at a pump on RockAuto, A-1 CARDONE 215473 {#571001E000, 571001G000}, this one shows a plug with a slot in the hole where the switch screws in. I am at a loss with replacing the pump when I cannot seem to find what the car came with.
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I just bought my first .:R32. Having a few minor issues:
1. When I open the door in the morning, the fuel pump primes the system and makes a high pitched sound (kind of like RFI). It's there when I have the car on also. So do you think I should buy a new pump and take it with me just in case?
2. This was happening before I bought the car. When I first move either forwards or backwards there is a clicking sound coming from the right front of the car. After I get moving, it goes away.
3. Just replaced the front right coilover assembly and there is a clunking noise coming from the strut (I think). What it could be? Maybe strut top bushing? Or ball joint making weird noises?
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