Prius (Gen 2) :: 2005 - Cracked Rear Coil Spring After Oil Change
May 7, 2016
So, I got my oil changed at the dealer and they said that I have a cracked rear coil spring. They quoted $350. So I took it to my real mechanic and he looked at it, said it's fine for now but I do have inspection next month. He said my struts feel fine. I'm having trouble finding just the spring since the Moog ones are out of stock. I did see Unity quick struts but I don't know if they're any good whatsoever. Whether to just go with springs (and a link to some) or get the complete struts and lend an opinion on good ones. Also, it has 122k miles. A0001 ?
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I pinpointed a consistent vibration in the rear L & R pillars! Using a rubber mallet on the tires you can hear the recoil springs vibration s and for me, I hear the back center seat retractor recoil spring vibrating! Going address this with the dealership for updated fixes, or I have to fix this myself. I have taken the rear seat apart and welded reinforcement bracket to stabilize the retractor, but the coil spring vibrates.even w the JBL system turn up I can hear the retractor coil spring vibrating distorting the music!
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My uncle has a 2002 Explorer and the driver side rear spring is cracked. I have agreed to fix this as he is on a tight budget and has no mechanical skills or tools for that matter.
Anyhow, I did some reading and have two monroe quickstruts to replace the OEM stuff. I did not want to screw around with a spring compresser and everything else. Were in Michigan, and I can only imagine how rusted the bolts are on this. So I figured getting the whole unit with new hardware would be the best route.
Hopefully these are easy questions. (I do not have the truck to look at right now, and will be doing this Saturday Morning)
I have air tools, Jackstands, 2 floor jacks, a bottle jack, and everything else I need at this point including PB Blaster, rags, pry bars, sockets, etc.
1. I am assuming once I get the truck in the air, I will put the frame on jack stands, and use the floor jacks to manipulate each side of the rear suspension as needed. If I remove the three top bolts, and the bottom bolt holding the shock, can I move the control arm down enough to get the old parts out?
2. What are the torque specs if any for the top three bolts, and the bottom shock bolt? I read the top three bolts are difficult to get out due to limited clearance, so I doubt a torque wrench will fit in there.
3. Would you locktite these top three bolts at all?
4. Weakest question of the day, What are the torque specs for the lug nuts.
5. Anything I have obviously missed? I have done front struts before with a compressor so I am somewhat familiar with the process. Just not on this car before.
6. When Im in this far, anything else I should look at. I will inspect the brake pads etc. Drain and fill the rear diff fluid if needed, etc.
I have searched high and low on the net to find a pictorial write up of the process....
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I just went into my garage and noticed pieces of my rear coil spring on the ground. 2000 Chevy Malibu LS. Question is, do I have to replace both rear coil springs? They seem to sell them in pairs.
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Conversion from the dana 50 to the newer dana 60 with coil spring? My Dana 50 has called it quits so while my front end is already off the vehicle already why not make improvements. Ford used the 50 for 1999 to 2002 then upgraded to the 60, I'm guessing it was for a reason!
I've read this article on a similar project but the dana 60 had leaf springs as well: Dana 60 Conversion for F250 years 1986-1996 .: Articles I'd prefer coil spring, nothing more then personal preference with a bit of better ride quality. The donor vehicle is a 06 SRW F250 This is not what I'll be getting but just as an example of the parts I would get.
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Any success story on converting 2003 or 2004 f350 with leaf spring front end to the 2005-2007 f350 coil front end is it possible?
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I am so careful about doing my oil changes with someone I trust. So i went to my regular place, noticed an oil leak (my car has never leaked anything in the past) took it back - the individual had cracked the seal, they replaced it. But now 2 weeks later there is something on the ground again. What it might be?
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Here is my current situation. No cruise, Replaced clock spring because the air bag light was also on. Still no cruise, checked fuses, they are fine, replaced bulb in gauge cluster. Still no light coming on at all, so I can't do the self test. Do you think my steering wheel switches are bad? Is there anything else I can check?
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So I have had my FX4 for almost 10 years now. I have an xtra cab, bought new summer 2004 in Connecticut. Bought it had 5 miles on odometer, as of today has almost 117k miles. We just relocated this past weekend from CT to Manatee County, Florida, my wife followed me down in her 2010 Escape. Both trucks ran perfect..easy driving cruise control on 70 most of the way except for VA where there seemed to be a state trooper every 5 miles
anyway so overall I am satisfied with my truck since I've owned it. Changed oil every 4000-4500 miles without fail, 5-20 Motorcraft semi synthetic and FL-820 S filter is all it has ever seen. Engine doesnt burn/leak a drop of oil. As far as maintenace items and repairs, I looked through my records, here's what I've done:
1) rear axle rebuilt under warranty, clutch packs were shot at 60k.
2) brakes/rotors all around at about 50k, they still as of now have plenty of meat left
3) pinion seal went at about 90k
4) fly wheel had to be replaced at about 95k that was an expensive repair
5) replaced both front window regulators
6) replaced sliding rear window, under warranty, was leaking badly.
7) idler pulley replacement
8) exhaust rotted from just in front of muffler to tailpipe, replaced.
Also was told before we left CT that front coil spring was broken? I don't know about that truck suspension seems fine but will have it looked at.
Also normal maintenance did tranny flush 4x so far, fuel filter 4x so far, on 3rd set of tires, came with BFG rugged terrain, replaced at 62k with TOYO open country, they lasted 40k, now have Goodyear Wrangler LT's, so far excellent. Air filters, a light bulb here and there, and replaced battery after 6 years just to do it.
I have NOT changed the plugs yet truck does run great but I know what can and probably will happen, I feel comfortable with a dealer doing it, I'm not mechanically inclined enough to do it. I will have a little bit of a commute to work here, so I will probably get a ford Fiesta or a focus for the drive, but no way am I getting rid of this truck!
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The driver's side coil spring broke, but here's the story.
When I found out there was a recall on my 2004, I called the dealership. They told me that they were not replacing the coils springs, they were only going to attach a brace or bracket in case the coil springs would fail.
Well, last night the coil broke and it was in the parking lot and not at 50mph on the road.
What about bracket fix? It was told to me that it would only prevent the coil from cutting into the tire, not fix it.
I am going to call Hyundai HQ this morning, but what should I expect? Is it unreasonable to expect to get a set of springs and have someone local do the work?
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Ok I have an f 150 04 fx4. 120k miles. I was checking a drip on the transmission cooler, and noticed my passenger side coil spring is broken 2nd coil from the bottom. Truck rides well, but obviously this needs to be addressed. Break looks old since it is rusted over, I probably relocated from new England to Florida driving this down 95 with this break, scary.
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So I went to install a front end leveling kit in my 2003 2WD F250, looked like a simple task, except the bolt that holds the lower coil spring mount won't budge! I tried heating the nut, I soaked it with WD-40, tried a 200lb impact and a 30" breaker bar with all my weight. Is there something I am missing?
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I have a hairline crack (with some starring) on my left rear tail light of my 2006 Prius touring. Any good glue or compound to patch it up and prevent water/moisture/dirt from getting in there and still stay clear for light to shine through?
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I just purchased a new to me 05.
PO, had a pioneer H/U installed, however the 4 rear speakers have no sound.
The rear of the radio seems to have everything plugged into it correctly.
My steering wheel controls work fine.
I'm guessing the rear volume/controller is canceling out the rear speakers???
If so what can I do to make the speakers play? I don't need the rear control to work.
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2003 f250 6" lift on 35s. How to lift the suspension to change out spring bushings? Was thinking using two chain falls on tow hooks on the front, any easier, safe, cheaper way. I have a farm jack but need to weld a plate on bottom of it for more support...
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I recentily bought a 05 prius with 153k on the speedo I asked the dealer about if fluid should be changed out, they said they have never done one, what should I do and if I do it how?
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On my new-to me 05 gen II with 76k miles, don't think trans. has been flushed/changed. How often should this be done?
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I have a 2005 Prius that I bought about 1 year ago that has about 75k miles. According to the display, I have been getting about 5.5l/100km (~43mpg) up until I did some maintenance in July.
A friend changed the oil, oil filter, and cabin air filter. Also, right around this time I bought a new set of tires. For some stupid reason, I had the idea that it had run flat tires, so that's what I bought & by the time I realized my mistake, it was too late.
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I work at a ford dealership in detroit, im looking into doing a v/b code swap, and just had some questions. my current stock excursion springs are completely shot. so i need new ones so might as well do the swap. do i need to order or get anything other than the v code springs, and the b code springs, new u-bolts, and modify the b code springs? i do not need shackles or anything to have the ex sit level when im done..? just making sure before i get involved. have viewed many topics on here about it and just want a definitive answer. 2005 excursion, v10. i actually wanted to go with the X's in front, but i dont know how to make those level in back.
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This noise I have is driving me crazy, installed neuspeed race springs and now I have this weird spring noise, sounds like the springs are binding and then releasing when you turn the wheel, like a clicking dinging noise, it's on both sides and happens when moving slow and turning the wheel and when stationary and turning wheel, it sounds like tug and release not really spring bind I checked install and everything is correct even disassembled bearing assembly and everything is fine, lubed spring seats with silicone paste nothing is working.
When looking at the spring and turning wheel it's almost like the spring is getting stuck on the middle part of the seat then releasing, I know this was a common problem on the mk6 but I haven't heard anything about the mk7 the spring is seated in the lower perch perfectly the upper is were the noise is coming from you can see as you turn the upper bearing by hand it actually somewhat twists the spring and then releases and that's what makes the noise, and it dose not move in a nice circular motion kind of like an egg shaped rotation and it makes the spring flex and pop I think there's a problem with the springs,
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Adding cruise control to F350 XL I just bought. I got a steering wheel with the buttons. But I am having problems with the clock spring. Mine has an 8 wire plug with only 6 pins on the big plug and all of the clock springs I have found have only a 6 wire plug for the big one. Without changing my clock spring I have no where to plug in the cruise wiring. All have been for right year model with cruise and even tried different years but none will plug in under the dash.
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