Prius (Gen 2) :: 2005 Car Will Only Go In Neutral And ICE Will Not Engage - No Codes Found
Feb 11, 2016
My wife's 2005 has a Christmas tree of lights on lighting up the dash including the brake, the large triangle exclamation point, and the check engine light. The MFD says problem and has the little red car with an exclamation point on it. The car will only go in neutral and the ice will not engage. I borrowed a scanner (older Actron) from a friend and it shows no codes. I replaced the 12v battery with an Optima a couple of days ago (after having similar issues) and drove about 60 miles with no troubles. I rebuilt the traction battery back in July and have put about 10,000 miles on it. Should any OBDII scanner pull the codes?
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My 2005 Prius was working quite fine until few days ago when the dash lit up with ABS, Check Engine, red triangle, ((!)), and the red car symbol on MFD. Additionally, the hybrid battery fan now comes on once in a while. Mileage on car is 164K; changed the 12v and hybrid batteries at about 153K. Running it through codes scanners, the following codes were read off it:
* B1421 (Solar Circuit malfunction, passenger side. Also, AC malfunction [although on the car, the AC still seems to work fine])
* P3000 (Hybrid control fault, and cruise control error)
*C2318 (Low voltage error-power supply malfunction)
I have checked 12V status using the diagnostic mode this morning and found it to be 12.0V (although 2 days ago when I checked it was 11.8V.)
I have not used the car since as I wouldn't want it park up by the roadside. I'm scarred to think its the hybrid battery again... For now, the car still moves well. What should I check to confirm real cause(s) of all these?
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I have a 2005 Prius with 131k miles. The check engine light came on. I had my mechanic check for codes, he had 3different scanners. There were no codes posted. Next day light went off. It has been off for a week. Now it has returned.
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I use a scangauge to monitor the traction battery in my 2001 prius. Today when I started the car to come home, the alarm triangle came on, but the scangauge shows no codes found. The car ran fine and got me home, but what the alarm is about.
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My 2005 Prius is 161,000 miles old and I have only taken it to the dealership exclusively for service from the start.
Right before my last oil change the warning light (red triangle or with exclamation point) came on and the oil icon came on on the control panel. It would only come on when I pressed on the brakes. I finally pulled over outside an auto parts store and checked the dipstick. It was not showing any oil at all.
I went inside the store and put in three quarts. Took the car to the dealership the next day and they could not figure out why the car had apparently consumed so much oil. In fact, their scanning did not even show the warning light had ever come on.
Odd, since there were no leaks found. They changed the oil and told me to bring it back 1,000 miles later. Today, 1,000 miles later, I checked the dipstick and found that it shows only 1/4 full. When I last checked the dipstick, leaving the dealership, it showed close to full.
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I have an 01 prius which recently had 4 codes come up.
P3000 and a few other misfire codes
P3125
P3120?
The car feels like the e brake is on and now does not go into reverse, feels like its stuck in neutral to.
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I have a 2005 prius and I got a scanguage to read the codes. I have two lights on my dash. One is the check engine and the other is the (O) light. I think this is something to do with the regen braking. Anyways when I run the scanguage it says no codes found. What type of scanner would be able to pull up all prius codes?
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Have a 2000 Passat V6 5spd. Recently ran the codes, and this is what I came up with under engine.
9 Faults Found:
17833 - EVAP Purge Valve (N80): Short to Ground
P1425 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17880 - EVAP Leak Detection Pump: Short to Ground
P1472 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17843 - Secondary Air Pump Relay (J299): Short to Ground
P1435 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17938 - Camshaft Timing Adjustment: Short to Ground
P1530 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17829 - Secondary Air Injection Solenoid Valve (N112): Short to Ground
P1421 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17923 - Intake Manifold Valve (N156): Short to Ground
P1515 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17529 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heating Circuit: B2 S2: Short to Ground
P1121 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17525 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heating Circuit: B1 S2: Short to Ground
P1117 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16486 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70): Signal too Low
P0102 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
Readiness: 0000 0000
Do these components share a common ground, or connector, I imagine it is a simple fix. just wiggle fuse, or ecu connector?
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This morning on my way to work by car went into neutral and shut off while driving. The hybrid warning system light came on along with the malfunction indicator. The master warning light also came on. Also the car turned back on eventually... should I have it towed or should I drive it there?
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The 4 wheel stick shift is stuck between H and L and would not engage either .. what can be done..
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I have a 1994 F-150 extended cab electronically activated 4x4, with the 302 V8 and an e4od transmission.
When the truck is running and it is in park or neutral it makes a grinding/whining noise and when it is in gear it doesn't engage, or occasionally will barely engage, but only enough to move it a little ways.
I've read a couple of post that suggested bad connections to the transmission could cause the transfer case to be in neutral which could cause a similar problem to this. I checked all the connection the best I could and the only thing I found that gave me any concern was one of the wires connected to the transfer case shift motor had some of the insulation melted or rubbed of and the wire was a bit corroded.
Is there any chance that this could be causing my overall problem with the truck not driving? Or what might be going on with it? Or any way I might be able to fix it without having to hand over a significant chunk of change for the full rebuild.
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Seems like since I did the first oil filter change it seemed very hard to get off oil filter. Today I did about the 5th filter change and it was harder than the last time. Thought i was going to break something. I do snug it up so there is no gap between the engine block and top of filter canister. Should I back it off a turn or 2 and check for leaks, maybe that is what that retainer clip is for near the top of the filter canister to stop it from coming undone so you don't have to snug it up?
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I've got our beloved 2005 Prius giving us the dreaded CEL with these two codes: p1116 and p1121.
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I'm getting codes C1241, C1259,C1310, P1241. All of them have to do with the skid control ecu. Should I replace the ecu?
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I replaced my hybrid battery. Now when trying to start the car again for the first time with new battery, it will not start all the way and go into gear. it begins to fire-up then just doesn't. it flashes ready 4 times then when usually the speedometer would throw up a zero, there is nothing.
The codes I got were c1241 c1259 c1310 c1378 the abs icon is displayed with every code. I erased these then ran again and still had the actuator code. Does this mean that I need to replace the actuator or is there maintenance that can suffice? Or do you think it's something dif all together and it should start with that code?
I have been getting a beeping noise when I touch the brake pedal for a while now. It goes off after the car fully turns on..
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ok scan system for code with Snap On verus and a Launch x431 this is a 2005 with 192k. I can not find any inf codes to lead me in the flow chart that alldata provides. Are their some years that don't provide inf codes. I have check all 3 smi relay and they are getting the command signal to closed the relays but looks like the smi2 will not close at times can this be the cause of poaa6 of the isolation fault. seems to be intermittent sometimes it closes. As far as the poaa6 I did push the start button 1 time to power up with no not "ready" on and waited 90 seconds and the triangle came on and set code. It has a new 12v battery I have take all the buss bars off the hv and clean, not that bad very littler discoloration and corrosion. Test each cell and have 7.78-7.97 in each ,installed 55w light loaded each and none ever drop below 7.65. this my not be the right way but I am learning and trying to figure this out. Have really never worked on the hv side of a prius always the motor side, but this now intrigues me .
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So my check engine light had been on intermittently for the past few weeks. I thought it was for the oil change as it was about that time and ignored it.
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Just recently replaced the driver side 4wd actuator. When testing the system to see if it was working, I noticed that in 2wd everything seemed to be in order (wheel spun without the half shaft, no grinding noises on test drive, seemed good to go).
However, when I switched to 4hi, the dash light "4HI" would come on but the wheel still spun freely without the half shaft. When the truck was off, the wheel and half shaft spun together as they should when vacuum is released from the actuator. When I switched to 4lo, the dash light did not come on and the check engine light came on. Pulling codes revealed P0171 and P0174.
Could these codes be caused by a bad solenoid? Is the solenoid not switching the vacuum off and that's my issue? Are there other possibilities?
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Ive been losing 20psi every week for the past month and I've finally had some time to fix it. I figured a leak that small would best be fixed with some slime. But can we use slime with tpms? If not, I guess i'll just have to open up the hole and plug it up.
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My 2005 Prius has 281,000 miles and is burning oil. No smoke or leakage just have to add oil between oil changes. I drive about 30,000 miles per year with my job. Car is paid for and I love not having a car payment, but fear this may be the beginning of the end.
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I have a 2009 prius that I just took into the dealer for an oil change at 50K miles. They told me, the engine belt was "cracking" and it would be $145 to fix.
I wanted to take it to a mechanic I trust to fix. I called on my way over and he said he could replace the belt for $90 but when I brought it in he looked at the belt for a couple of minutes and said it looked fine to him. He didn't recommend any work now and said just check it again during my next oil change.
I don't want to be stranded if it breaks.
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