Prius (Gen 2) :: 2005 CEL On And Multiple Misfires
Apr 1, 2014
2005 prius. the car is pulling three codes misfire cyl1, misfire cyl2, and multiple misfires. The car has over 450000 miles on it and runs like a dream. I just replaced they spark plugs and the coil packs in each cylinder. The cel codes are still there after clearing them. I am willing to replace the fuel injectors but just seems weird that two of them would go out like that together.
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Had codes come up for ignition Coils twice. Car shook for all the way home. Replaced that coil 2. Second time shook for just a little bit. Codes for coil 2 snd 4. replaced all the Rear ones and the one front one that thru other code and all spark plugs. 2 weeks later I get Engine control malfunction, multiple misfires? Wife said happened when driving and didn't feel anything. Ignition control box bad?
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I left the key on and drained my auxiliary battery(It was weak before) and when I jumped it it started and then shut off after ~20 seconds. I tried various different things and all I succeeded in doing was draining my HV battery from starting it so many times. So I disassembled the pack and recharged it and now it starts and runs but it is misfiring. It throwing 4 codes:
P0300: Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0302: Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
P0304: Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected
P1305: Ignition Coil 2 Primary Feedback Circuit
I inspected the igniters and plugs and they seem to be OK and I'm not sure where to look next. I'm not sure if the battery issue is related or not but I did replace the auxiliary battery.
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I know the ignition coil are a big thing but I'm going to be buying this car this week and so I need to see how much less to offer the guy because of this issue. Is there anything other then the ignition coil that it could be? What's worst case scenario? And also would it be ok to drive it home about 60 or so miles with this going on? I'm guessing it's doing the misfires at idle.
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It all started a few months ago.... I started my car, and it started noticeably misfiring, CEL flashing and everything. I scanned it with my vagcom and it came up Cylinder 1 Misfire and Random Multiple misfire. I popped the hood, made sure everything was seated correctly, and shrugged.
Ordered some new wires for it, since it had 80k miles on it with original wires, I figured why not. The misfire didn't come back.
A few weeks later, same thing happened. Misfires, flashing CEL, same codes. I ended up driving it the 5 minutes to work anyways and figured I'd look at it later after I got off.
8 hours later I started it up again, ran like a champ, no CEL on. The problem didn't come up again for 3-4 weeks.
So now, without fail, every month or so, I'll get the same issue. It doesn't matter if it's raining or sunny or cold or warm. But if I let it sit for a few hours, it'll act like it never happened.
Now, I haven't replaced the coil pack yet, simply because it doesn't sound like a coil problem, but I might do it just for the hell of it. New plugs and wires have already been done.
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So I took a trip from Dallas to Florida, and on the way back my check engine light came on. The car shakes at idle, almost like it wants to take off. I drove it back to Dallas like that since the car runs normal on the high way. I got it scanned at autozone and the code said it had multiple random misfires. I'll be taking to the dealer in the morning, but what it could be? The car jumped over 50K during the trip hopefully the dealer will be nice and cover it.
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I have a 2000 lc 1.5l ... I just rebuilt the motor machine shop work and all it Will start and run for 3 seconds and then die. If I hold the gas pedal it will run but sound rough and as soon as you let go it dies I have been able to get codes multiple misfires, misfire cylinder 1, misfire cylinder 2, and misfire cylinder 4 I have put brand new plugs (copper core ngk), wires coils, crank sensor, cam sensor, iac, tps, maf and the injectors all have new orings it also has ntk o2 sensors that might have 1000 miles on them...
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I have a 97 Pontiac Grand Am GT 2.4L Quad 4, my problem is that it misfires and the engine runs rough. You can smell fuel, but there is no fuel leak. I have about 155k miles on the car, never had no serious issues with the car, the car has been great, I’ve owned it since early 2000. Little history on the parts I’ve replaced this year is the following spark plugs x3, spark plug boots x2, timing chain, Timing chain tensioner, camshaft positioning sensor, throttle positioning sensor, fuel pump, fuel filter, air-intake manifold gasket, throttle body gasket, IAC, ignition coils, ignition coil housing, ignition coil wiring harness, swapped the Ignition control module, checked the fuel injectors for solenoid clicking, replaced water pump, thermostat, swapped EGR’s.
Maybe some other parts I can’t remember but I have done a lot trying to figure this out. Also took it to a garage and told them what I have done and the first place they looked was the fuel pump and said it tested at 20psi and called for 40-60psi so they replaced it and problem was still there. They had it for a week and half and couldn’t figure this problem out. Thinking about replacing the ignition coil housing again just to see maybe bought a bad one. Also done the three checks for head gasket blown, milky white oil, anti-freeze bubbling from the reservoir and compression check, all checked out fine. Ran gunk fuel injector cleaner through it several times.
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My old pump wasnt building pressure so i put a new filter on and i switched wit a used one from an old car i had.key on engine off Pressure goes to 45 then instantly starts droppin? Once i turn key an do again same thing... Car is starting tho. fuel Pressure around 38 while idling. I pulled fuel rail up and looked for leakin injectors.. There was none yet pressure still bled down kinda quick. I also have my cat aloose to keep from messing it up any further. Only codes keep showing is po300 multiple misfires.
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I have a 2001 1.8T Passat. I bought it used recently and have had tons of problems. I have been getting a lean air code for some time now and I think I recently resolved that. I had to replace a few vacuum lines, MAF, exhaust flex pipe (it was broken), fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator. The car was still running bad and throwing a lean air code (Bank 1) so I finally changed the O2 sensor and I think that did the trick. Now every time I start the car I get misfires until is warms up. I get misfires on all cylinders along with the multiple misfire code.
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Getting multiple CEL's for the catalytic converters and cylinder misfires. Looking for threads that address these particular codes ie. 0431, 0421, 0300. 0303, 0306. I have a feeling that these are being caused from a vacuum leak and/or needing a reflash for the ECU.
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My daughter has a 2003 Passat Turbo. Two weeks ago it started to run like crap with a check engine light on. I pulled the codes and it said multiple misfires. My buddy owns his own shop and said bring it down. He pulled the plugs and the spark plug holes were filled with oil. He changed the valve cover gaskets and replaced the plugs. Still ran rough with low fuel pressure so he replace the fuel pump and injectors. Still runs rough, when he pulled the air intake off there was oil in it. Could this have happened do to the valve cover gasket? The codes still read misfires. He said the turbo was full of oil also. Could the turbo be bad causing it to run like crap? Can it be rebuilt? I really don't want to go to the dealer.
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I am trying to get a 2009 Sonata NF with a 3.3L V6 to run correctly and i have tried everything that i can find and still get the problem. The car runs very rich with a strong gas smell. The engine runs rough but doesn't stall. The car has has period where it runs fine and then the issue returns but is in more frequent and steady now. The car will run for the first 5 minutes great if it is cold and it also runs good at full throttle and the check engine light went off during hard acceleration which seems consistent with getting too much fuel. I bought a BlueDriver to read the codes and I love the data it provides but I am learning all the features.
For a little history the car has 95,250 miles. At 81157 miles the check engine light came on and an independent shop replaced the downstream O2 sensor and the light has been off for 2 years until coming back on recently. The code showing was a P0300. The shop replaced spark plugs and the manifold gasket with and oil change for $775. The check engine light stayed off for about a month and 550 miles. The car was taken back to the shop and they replaced the rear O2 sensor for $429 . The check engine light was off for a couple of days and then returned with the P0300. It might go a couple of days without a problem and then it would return.
This is when I got the car and started reading all the forums i could for possible causes. I saw the Tech Bulletin on the Variable Valve Timing Oil Control Solenoids so i replaced both valves. The check engine light returned with a P0303 for cylinder 3 misfire so i figured it was a coil so i replaced all the coils. The P0300 code returned. I check fuel pressure after seeing a post about fuel pressure regulators causing the problem but the pressure was correct. I changed the Mass Flow Sensor figuring it was getting too much gas but no improvement. I bought the BlueDriver so I could see more than just the codes. The O2 sensor looked erratic so i changed the front upper O2 sensor.
I found the Tech Bulletin about the O2 sensors fuel trim readings and realized there was an upper sensor on the back manifold and it was reading -18% so i changed it and now I don't know which way to go. I currently have the P0303 code confirmed and P0300 pending. With the live data the items that looked strange at idle were O2 Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 2 steady at 99.2% and Calculated Engine Load a 21.6%. The freeze frame data from when the light came on has all the short fuel trim at 0.0% and long term at -0.8% for both banks. Calculated Engine Load was 45.9% even though I was trying to drive slowly at 29 mph. Mass Air was 21.71 g/s, I had been running 3 minutes from a slightly warm start, Absolute engine load was 44.3%. Anything else to check or data I should look at?
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I'm getting Codes: P0300-306 (Misfires) and P0356.
I have researched the definitions of these codes and see that P0356 indicates an ignition coil failure on coil "F" (which would be Cylinder 6?)... but how is it possible only one coil is failing but I'm getting multiple/random misfires on all cylinders?
I've looked at the wiring diagrams and the only place that I can see a "single point failure" that can cause such a thing, would be the ECM itself...
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just picked up this 99 Jetta with about 150,000 miles and while driving all of a sudden i had extreme power loss, shaking and shuddering, and the engine light came on. My code reader found multiple random misfires cylinder 1 and 4 codes P0300, P0301, and P0304.
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A few months ago I had multiple misfires due to a failed coil. When it happened I drove it enough to get to an Advance auto to have the code checked that came up. After I replaced the coil the car ran fine, but then the engine light came on with the P0422 bank 1 code. Does this mean the manifold cat converter is shot? The car runs fine except for what feels like the transmission trying to decide where it wants to be around 40mph (like it's shifting back and forth, don't know if it's related). I have a flex pipe that is leaking and needs replaced. I haven't noticed any loss in MPGs (consistently 26mpg city since I started checking). I have 133k miles.
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So I picked up this 24v vr6 in florida and it has the folowing codes:
p2181 malfunction in cooling system
p0303 misfire in cylinder 3
p0305 misfire in cylinder 5
p0300 random multiple misfires detected
p1570 engine control module disabled
I am thinking the ecu is fried? otherwise why else would that last code pop up. misfire codes im assuming are related to the ecu because theres new COP on each cylinder, newer starter, newer alternator, new spark plugs. Cooling system malfunction im thinking could be the ECT sensor, apparently the water pump was replaced a little while back.
If the ecu is fried can I buy a new one chipped from like APR or do they need the existing ecu and then they modify it?
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I have a mk4 1.8t Gti. Recently I have been having issues with idle and boost. I read the codes and multiple random misfires in all 4 cylinders came up, idle control and the crank, knock, and o2 sensor came up. Shows that system is running to lean as well. I changed the spark plugs and wires, check the coil packs they where done about 1k miles so I expect them to be perfectly fine. When I clear the codes it idles below 9-8k rpms. I also noticed the breather hose coming out of the valve cover into the EGT has a hole melted into it, could this cause any of my issues?
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2003 Toyota Matrix with 217,000 miles (most on a rural mail route). Check engine light stays on with readings for multiple misfires, all four coils (which have all been replaced) and just replaced fuel pump. Gas mileage has plummeted.
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My 99 v10 is having a random multiple misfire, it showed an 0300 a few weeks ago. since then i have replaced plugs, 2-cops/boots,dpfe,egr, did a vacuum check,fuel pressure at 28, and i'm sure i'm forgetting something. I drove down to napa today for some sea foam (15 miles) and it drove like new, when i started it up to come home it started missing again, it starts easily and i can press the gas and go, but i can still feel the misfire...
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I have a 2003 Mercedes c230 with low mileage 70000. This was its first season not garaged. About 2wks ago when very cold started abruptly to misfire badly at idle with poor gas mileage and modest loss of power. I got codes on OBD II for multiple cylinder misfires p0301-4 (all 4 cylinders). No other codes. Also the MAF and O2 sensors seems to be giving normal readings, and I cleaned the MAF sensor (didn't take off. cleaned through screen connected to air filter housing). 1 or 2 of the spark plugs seemed fouled as had black oily fuel on them and the O2 sensor voltage readings were consistently close to 0.9v (high meaning reading rich air/fuel right?). Changed all 4 plugs and swapped around ignition coils. Seems a little better but still misfire. O2 sensor voltage reads now consistently around 0.7v and the new plugs are dry but already blackened (indicating rich air/fuel I think).
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