Prius (Gen 2) :: 2004 Vehicle Died On The Road - Code U0100
Aug 16, 2012
My 2004 gen II died on the road last week. I wanted to have information, on what is apparently a rare problem.
View 14 RepliesMy 2004 gen II died on the road last week. I wanted to have information, on what is apparently a rare problem.
View 14 RepliesDriving home today, my prius threw the triangle and all the other warning lights. Scanned with my scan gauge got code u0100. I was only a mile from home so attempted to drive it. Car made it 1/4 mile and then died. I had it towed to the house and checked the grounding wires going to the engine and transaxle. The Tranaxle grounding wire was loose so i pushed it together tightly. The car now runs on main battery only, the ICE does not fire up. All warning lights are still present. Nav screen says problem. 12v is good.
View 15 RepliesDriving down the road, vehicle lost all electrical power and died. There doesn't appear to be any juice at all to start it. The battery is fine (along with the terminals), the starter is okay too (although I don't see why that would affect total electrical flow). There were not any alarms on the vehicle. Is it the fuse box (negative terminal) or possibly the alternator? The alternator had been charging, and the battery showed that it had juice left in it. What would cause the vehicle to just die like that, in the middle of driving it? It's an LS type blazer with a 4.3 L engine.
View 3 RepliesI've got a 2006 Prius that was a model car--no problems at all--until it turned 4 years and 1 week old in April 2010. Then my aux battery died on 22 April, with just 31,583 miles on the car, and was replaced at Downtown Toyota in Oakland, CA. My dashboard lighted up after hours, and since my regular mechanic (Art's Automotive) was already closed for the evening, I had it towed to downtown Toyota. No huge deal, except for the cost of the battery/labor. The codes were: C2318, b1421, b1200, b1207, and b1271.
4 weeks later, on 22 May, I pulled into my driveway, and 4 lights came on: the MIL, the VSC, the yellow ! inside the circle, and the Hybrid System Failure icon on the MFD.
We purchased a used 2002 Prius from our brother-in-law's family and we're the third owners. The car has around 80K and we've owned it for about a month and a half. Before we picked the car up they took it to a dealer and checked it out. They put a new aux battery in the trunk, changed the oil and gave it the green light. We picked it up in Philadelphia and drove it home to Chicago.
Today my wife was returning from a trip down to Missouri. After a stop for gas and refreshments and just getting back on the interstate the car started to die. The warning lights came on and the battery indicator as well as the red triangle. After sitting a little while she was able to start it again but only made it to the next exit where it officially died and needed to be towed to a dealer just outside of St. Louis. It was 104 degrees out this afternoon and she did have the AC, radio and other necessities running during the trip but she had gone less than 100 miles today before it died.
It sucks to be 300 miles away (I'm home) from the car/dealer not really knowing what they'll find or say they found.
Fault code (U0100 lost comm with ECM/PCM)
Car started a few weeks back. I let is sit while I ordered a new dash, it had a blow dash airbag.
I replaced the dash, taking out the stereo and instrument cluster. I also replaced the battery with a new factory one.
Went to start the car and nothing happened, no cranking, the only thing I can hear is a single click from the starter. All the lights are on in the instrument panel.
Windows, sunroof don't work even in AUX power. Fuel pump does not prime
I searched the forums and tried numerous advice, but to no avail.
I checked the fuses, none were blown, checked the relays, all work.
OBDII reader throws out the code U0100 even though check engine light is not on. I dont have VAGCOM or VCDS but should in a few days.
Fault code (U0100 lost comm with ECM/PCM)
Car started a few weeks back. I let is sit while I ordered a new dash, it had a blow dash airbag. I replaced the dash, taking out the stereo and instrument cluster. I also replaced the battery with a new factory one.
Went to start the car and nothing happened, no cranking, the only thing I can hear is a single click from the starter. All the lights are on in the instrument panel.
Windows, sunroof dont work even in AUX power
Fuel pump does not prime
I checked the fuses, none were blown, checked the relays, all work.
OBDII reader throws out the code U0100 even though check engine light is not on. I dont have VAGCOM or VCDS but should in a few days.
The noise is related to vehicle speed, not engine speed. Easiest to hear when all is quite coasting at 30mph. Sounds like the front. It just started the other day.
The noise sounds like moan from airplanes high ahead (think WW2 movies). I replaced the front springs and shocks a few thousand miles ago and did not get it realigned. No noise until now. The tires are good and feel smooth (no sign of cupping, feathering,..). It is 4wd. How best to tell if it is wheel bearing? Rear end? Get it aligned?
I have a 2009 Toyota Corolla (It has a 1ZZFE engine). The car for a long time was a little problem when starting (long cranks and several tries before starting, but no check engine light at all), then, after adjusting the PVC hose for 3 days the car worked perfectly, but one week ago, in the morning when trying starting, it was impossible. I scanned and got a U0100 code, tested crankshaft position sensor and it is ok, tried with the other key but same result, only cranks, no start at all. After scanning, it started briefly and suddenly went off, tried again, and only cranks.
View 1 RepliesThe steering wheel on our Prius is not centered when the vehicle is on a flat road going straight.
View 18 RepliesGen II Prius, 151000 miles, HV battery died (rapid charging / discharging, cooling fan on high constantly, etc) Installed remanufactured HV battery. Connect it all back up, test drive, get the triangle of death, VSC, amber (!), and MIL on MFD. Car continues to drive normally until shutdown, upon next startup lights still present and won't shift into D or R only N. Pull codes, POAA6 is showing.
Code doesn't reset with car in ign on (not ready) after 60 seconds, make car ready and shift immediately to N. Code resets after 30 sec. Have done this trouble shooting 4 times and code always resets with ready on and in N. This points to the HV 'leak' being either in the wiring harness or the inverter. What I can do next in order to figure out which one?
My 2002 Prius died the other day. Getting DTC P3125 when I ran it through my scanner, but I don't have an advanced enough one to get the sub-codes. It's got 215,000 Miles on it, so I would expect something major to be happening at this point.
Here's a detailed description of what happened --- I was driving down the freeway the other day and started noticing my car was sputtering a little bit and losing a slight amount of power. I pulled over to a restaurant to say hi to a friend; when I came back out I started the car and the check engine and battery lights came on. About 10 more miles down the freeway the car started heavily limping and barely was able to get me off the freeway, then the car completely died. When I would start it back up it would die in about 5 to 10 seconds. The 12v auxiliary battery, not the main hybrid battery, had completely died.
I figured it might have been just a dead old battery that needed replacement so I put in another new one. It ran amazingly for about five minutes around the parking lot, then the same thing happened again. It completely died just like before.
The 12v battery isn't getting re-supplied with the juice it needs. Something's wrong in there.
The either the inverter is shot, it's just overheating due to a faulty coolant pump, or the MG2 generator isn't putting juice back into the 12v system.
I checked the fluid reservoir. It looks like it's flowing, but there is a few bubbles floating to the top of the fluid. Is that normal?
My 331 ran good til it died driving down the road, won't start unless gas is pushed and cuts out immediately after starting, even if gas is pushed more. I know it's getting fuel cuz I can see it in my filter, brand new plugs.
View 15 RepliesMy problem is my 6 CL died going down the road I got to stop light & she quitly died. I got it started after a few tries & made it to BK, kept trying to start sounded like choked for gas. Hour later starts goes 1/2 mil dies call towtrk. Changed fuel pump(not so bad) fired her up, first couple times ran a sec. and died.
3rd time a charm it started & idled (a lttl ruf) for 20 min.& wife takes it to gas station shut off & restarted no problem & back home. 1 hr later I get in to run an errand & it dies I push it hm pop hood seems awfully hot. Is there a way to test the CPS unit?
Car dies going down the road, last year I was towed three times on freeway, once in town. I noticed that before it shuts down the air condition stops and auto windows won't work then I go to step on the gas and nothing.. it can happen two miles from home or 100 miles from home. after it sits awhile it will start. been to mechanic and he had it for a month and ran it everyday he said and nothing like that happened.
View 19 RepliesI have a 2009 Toyota Camry with 53 thousand miles on it. It has had new tires, regular oil changes and new filters, and as of yesterday, a new battery. That is all the work done on it. Yesterday it wouldn't start - I jump started it, then it died while at a complete stop on the road. I jump started it again and got a new battery (they said that the battery was bad).
Today I was driving, and when I have the AC on and I brake, the car violently shakes and feels like it is going to die on me. It works fine as long as the AC is not on. When the AC is turned on, the car shakes in Park as well. I don't know what to check or do. My fluids are fine (I was really low on coolant today but I filled it up). 2 weeks ago, I did hit a REALLY hard bump on the highway that felt like I blew out my tires. I am currently driving it without the AC on.
Going down road truck just died replaced fuel filters still wouldn't start no codes check all fuses and made sure the FICM was plugged in....
View 5 RepliesI recently purchased a 1997 F150 4.2 Liter. On the way home it started missing. Within the next few days it died on the side of the road. After towing home I found no spark. A few days later I t started but only for a few minuites and died. No spark, coil pack is new so I replaced the CKP and it started up. Drove it about 1/2 Mile and died again, No spark again. Not getting power to coil pack when I am turning it over. So in short, new coil pack and CKP sensor and no spark. If it sits for a few days it may start or it may not. But if it does it only runs for a short period and then no spark again.
View 3 RepliesI own a Pontiac Vibe 2006 80K manual trans, and i hear a noise while i am driving down the road on the right side of the vehicle. It is a very slight or dampened sound that is a mild squeak. It makes the sound while going straight. Turning does not effect the sound. When i put on the breaks it does not effect the sound. What is it?
View 6 RepliesFord Ranger 20012.5LManual Transmission4 Cylinder Engine4x2 Drivetrain~160K Miles
While driving home tonight, my truck suddenly lost power, as if I turned the key to turn off the motor. There was a beep, the one that goes off whenever I open the door while the key is in or the light is on, then the "Check Gauge" light came on (the one that warns me when my gas tank is near empty), following that the yellow Battery light came on and finally the orange "Check Engine" light came on.
I pulled out into an empty dirt lot, but that was pretty difficult as the power steering was gone (since the truck was off). After parking the truck, I turned the key to the actual "Off" position, pulled the key out and gave the truck a few moments. I put the key back in and tried to get my truck running again. Of course, it didn't work, but I figured it wasn't the battery because it lacked the sputtering motor turn. There's that and the battery is under two years old. The truck seemed like it really wanted to turn and start, but it lacked a certain something to get it up and over that last hill to vehicular movement. I don't think I was lacking gas, since it should have given me the red "Check Gauge" light and even if I was, I know I have another 5 miles before I have to fuel up (I would know since I've tested it to see how far it would go on that light). I was pretty low on gas when this happened, so the thought came to me that maybe my gauge was starting to get a bit wonky. Then a more realistic thought came to mind.
I've had this bad habit for a while, where I fill my gas tank to only about a quarter or a half at the most. Part of it stems from a paranoia of having somebody siphon gas out of my truck at night; yes, I could have fixed this by installing a lock on the gas cap (albeit, my counter-argument is that it's better to have them take the little bit of gas than have hundreds of dollars of body damage from an aggressive thief). Anyway, I've heard that this habit of filling the tank below half can speed up fuel pump failures. Despite this, I've had no other symptoms of a fuel pump failure coming, as I haven't experienced any issues with surging/bucking.
So here are my questions:
1) Am I right in assuming it's a fuel pump failure?
2) Are these instructions to fuel pump replacement accurate? (Yes, I know the DIY Matrix provides every reason on why I should avoid doing this myself, but my wallet I'm itching for a project.
3) If it's not a fuel pump failure, what could it be?
I have a 06 f350 with 140,000mile and today I was driving to a buddy's house and the truck died on me as I was doing 45mph so I towed it home and check the codes I have 1 low icp pressure and 1 low icp during starting / cranking and 1 ckp out of range I think that how it's worded so I looked at the icp pressure and it's 0 and the desired is around 1000 and the volt is .56 and as far as the ckp the rpm are reading so I don't know what to do about that ? Could the STC fitting and dummy plug and standpipe o rings really go out on me like this ? Or am I missing something? I am also trying to track down a oil pressure gauge for the Icp fitting to check it
View 9 Replies