I have a 2004 Prius. I purchased a used brake control power supply and installed it. Do I have to reflash it?
I tried to relearn the Linear valve offset. I've tried to INITIALIZATION OF LINEAR SOLENOID VALVE AND CALIBRATION with the factory scan tool. I have both. The older one seems to work better when working on Gen II Prius. I also tried to reset the YAW rate sensor.
I do a lot of diagnostic and keys programming but my mechanical knowledge isn't' that good. I had a minor accident last week and a car hit my Prius from the passenger front corner, Areand left a small dent, check the red X in the pic.
I noticed after the accident that the engine noise was much higher, I checked all ECUs with Techstream, I found only one error on the Transmission ECU:
C2318 Low Voltage Error(Power supply Malfunction).
Cleared it and didn't show again even after driving 200 milesIs
there anything behind this area that can cause that noise? or something responsible of reducing the engine noise might be damaged or broken?
My truck had power to the Brake Controller until a recent road trip and now there is no power to the controller. All fuses are good. Which circuit the power comes from?
View 4 RepliesI recently had the computer upgrade recall done and I noticed I no longer get the low fuel chime and flashing last bar on the fuel gauge.
One of the writers at our dealer said it can't be the software but instead it's the fuel gauge sender.
I don't agree because the gauge seems to be working fine otherwise.
Is it software or hardware? Low Fuel Warning Failure after Reflash?
I have a 2006 VW Passat 2.0T 6spd and it has the electronic rear parking brake with auto-hold. Recently needed rear brake pads, but hadnt had the 3 updates for the system, so i could not retract the e-brake through the computer. Got the update done, got the car back with two codes that i cannot get cleared:
53 - Parking Brake
02433: Supply voltage for right parking brake motor (sporadic) - V283
01087: Basic setting not carried out (sporadic)
Every time the codes are cleared, they come back immediately, therefore the scanner will not allow me to operate the system and do the brake job. I am using the Launch x-431 scanner with a vag-com emulator, so there should be no equipment problems if there is anything i can do. Is there an adaptation or relearn that needs to be carried out for the caliper?
I am wondering if there is any way when I turn my car off that the cig/12v? outlet will still work? I have a 19 month old and we have a portable dvd player that he watches in the car and it is plugged in, when we stop for something and one of us run in a store for something we like to keep him entertained, but if I turn the car off it kills the power. How to keep it on, vag-com?
View 4 RepliesThe DRLs in my 13 are 12v or a lesser power supply? Planning out my retro fit and wanting to do something different DRL wise but need a 12v supply, I know the headlights themselves are turned down some and can be adjust via VagCom.
View 4 RepliesI had the cruise control set on the speed limit going up a hill. Half way up, the cruise control dropped as did my speed from 70 to 56. There were no warning lights but the battery meter was in the one bar pink range. I managed to continue up the hill at 56 mph by flooring the accelerator. When I got to the top and started to regenerate power to the battery, I regained power and speed. I am discussing a 2008 Prius with 89k miles. What the issue may be ( like battery pack declining efficiency)?
View 15 RepliesVolvo850 turbo year94 I'm a lot like I do most of the repairs. But now I have a problem with the ABS code 444 No power supply to valves in hydraulic unit.
View 5 RepliesWiring up my Clearance lights for top of the cab, and for my running boards.
According to my diagrams there is a brown wire running along the passenger kick panel and down the gutter to the rear of the X.
I was driving (about 800 km), when suddenly I realised that some strange smell is going out from my car's boot. When I checked, I found out that Vehicle Power Supply Battery was hot, making some strange noise (like hissing), plus I saw that the battery exterior wall (towards to the trunk) was waved like it was overheated. But because all these stuff happened in the middle of my way, I could do nothing, so I continued my driving.
After 300 km I felt huge impact, I realized that I lost my 6th and 5th gears, after some time I realized that I lost 4th gear. That I stoped just in case not to break something. When I tried to start the engine, It didn't started, so I understand that all problems was besause Vehicle Power Supply Battery was drained.
As I mentioned before, all these stuff was in the middle of highway, therefore I took the wires (crocodile), connected Starter battery with Vehicle Power Supply Battery and managed to start the car's engine and get to the City of Prague. I took out the Vehicle Power Supply Battery, opened battery cells and found out that all of them were dry, no acid at all.
My question is - could it be that the Vehicle Power Supply Battery was overcharged (overheated) because of some mistake of battery charge controller and all acid just go away in some way?
What might be causing this transmission fault code?...It is the only one I get and makes it unable to see what gear I'm in when using the tiptronic mode. I can clear the code while I'm driving and it will be ok until I turn the car off then again it comes back up. Car is a 2002 Passat GLX 4 motion
View 1 RepliesWhen temperature is lower than 15 degrees windshield wiper fluid freezes in supply line or squirter. Is this because of the cover at top of inside of the hood? Does that cover prevent engine heat keeping the system operable at lower temperatures. We need this system operable in the mountains of CO where ice melt is spread on the roads.
View 4 RepliesMy friend has a 2008 Elantra, and she had me jump start the car the other day. The car jump started just fine, but then when it was idling, the headlights would flicker, as if there was an uneven of inadequate power supply. Then, when driving the car, turning the wheel and taxing the power steering would cause the headlights to almost turn off momentarily. After driving for 30 or more minutes, the car did not improve at all. I turned the car off, then went to start it, and immediately it was too dead to turn over again. I'm lost with the electrical, I don't think its the alternator.
View 2 RepliesWent to go and start my truck this morning and noticed after it was running that it sounded like a misfire, then i seen the smoke... I shut the truck down and lifted the hood and seen that somehow i had a high pressure fuel injector supply line on the Lh side break off. The line that goes from the fuel rail to the injector port on the valve cover (theres 4 of them on a side). There doesn't seem to be an o-ring or anything on them, they are just pressed over and tighten down.
View 6 RepliesI am rebuilding the oil cooler and noticed since its removed I have great access to this fuel line pair from fuel bowl to soft lines below. How these disconnect at the soft lines? I happen to have a new set waiting to be installed. Is there a tool required ?
View 3 Replies2005 Prius, 50K. Newly purchased two weeks ago. Last night, driving into my garage with the ICE off, noticed a noticeable electric or electronic-sounding hum from the engine compartment. With the hood up and looking toward the engine from the front of the car, noise comes from the right side of the engine compartment, to the right of the inverter cover.
The noise, a loud hum, appears when pressing the Power button and the brake pedal. It also appears when pressing the Power button twice without pressing the brake pedal. When starting up the car, the hum lowers in pitch significantly (though not in volume) as soon as the Park button is pressed.
When I bought the car, I brought it in to the dealership for a complete checkup. They replaced the inverter coolant pump under the recall notice. Don't know if that's significant. I opened the coolant reservoir cap last night with the motor on, and noticed movement inside, so it appears to be working fine.
2010 Prius 98,000 miles - No Accidents
I was driving on the freeway cruising about 65-70mph.. Not using the brake at all. All the sudden the car starts beeping loudly with the Brake light going off, traction control light going off, and the ((!)) light as well. So I wanted to pull over to the side and realized my brakes were not working . It was the same as if you're trying to brake the car when the car is turned off. I slowly pulled off the freeway. Tried to reset the ECU, battery, everything, thinking at the traction control is just going crazy.
I got in the car (2010 Prius IV, 170k miles) this a.m and the brake, ABS, & stability/traction control lights all just lit-up. Can run & drives just fine.
View 19 RepliesSo, I installed a new radio lately (Poineer 4100 NEX- nice radio, BTW). Yesterday, I ran a couple video wires through the firewall for new backup cameras. Anyway, after I was done, my brake lights and cruise control didn't work.
After a little Googling, I decided it my have something to do with the electrical switch on the brake pedal. So, I wiggled the brake switch a bit and the brake lights are working again. I must have bumped or bent something while I was running wires.
Was/is my switch out of alignment or is this a sign my switch may be going out. Should I replace the switch?
I have recently had a problem with my 2004 Prius - the brake lights came on while I was driving (both the red exclamation mark and the orange exclamation mark to the left of the speedometer) ...
The Toyota service center told me that I need to replace the skid Control ecu - the part number that they quoted is 89540 47050.