Prius (Gen 2) :: 2003 - Code P3000 / High Voltage Leak
Dec 8, 2013
I bought an 03 with 58K miles on it. shortly after I bought it the check main battery light came on, the local Toyota dealer told me I needed a new main battery.
I had a P3000 code, a high voltage leak. It turned out to be corroded buss bars and cables, with 2 leaking cells, $1,450.00 latter the onboard computer said the problem was fixed and my display read normally for about 1,500 miles before I started getting that code and the check main battery light again.
I took it back to the shop tat did the work and they ran the diagnostic's on it again, checking the main power cables that led from the main battery under the car to the Toyota Hybrid system, inverter? under the hood they checked all of the high voltage connections, they all checked out fine. The shop then took several days to do an online search for possible causes.
This led to the CV trans axle with its electric motors and generators as the possible culprit. The car is running and driving fine, so I did the 60,000 mile transmission oil change, suggested by my mechanic ( apparently the fluid becomes conductive with age) the check battery light will go off if I remove the secondary battery terminal for a minute or so and stayed off for 2 tanks of gas after the fluid change but it did come back on.
I can reset the computer easily enough and it will stay off for 3 to 400 miles but I'm looking to get the damn light to stay off. I'm going to change the trans fluid again. Changing drive motor or generator?, can this be done in the car? or at all? It may be that if this is the problem it may end up making sense to just put in a new CV transaxle.
View 4 Replies
Advertisement
I bought an 03 with 58K miles on it. shortly after I bought it the check main battery light came on, after the local Toyota dealer told me I needed a new main battery. I had a P3000 code, a high voltage leak. It turned out to be corroded buss bars and cables, with 2 leaking cells, $1,450.00 latter the onboard computer said the problem was fixed and my display read normally for about 1,500 miles before I started getting that code and the check main battery light again.
I took it back to the shop tat did the work and they ran the diagnostics on it again, checking the main power cables that led from the main battery under the car to the Toyota Hybrid system, inverter? Under the hood they checked all of the high voltage connections, they all checked out fine. The shop then took several days to do an online search for possible causes. This led to the CV trans axle with its electric motors and generators as the possible culprit. The car is running and driving fine, so I did the 60,000 mile transmission oil change, suggested by my mechanic ( apparently the fluid becomes conductive with age) the check battery light will go off if I remove the secondary battery terminal for a minute or so and stayed off for 2 tanks of gas after the fluid change but it did come back on.
I can reset the computer easily enough and it will stay off for 3 to 400 miles but I'm looking to get the damn light to stay off. I'm going to change the trans fluid again. Changing the drive motor or generator?, can this be done in the car? or at all? It may be that if this is the problem it may end up making sense to just put in a new CV transaxle.
View 6 Replies
2005 Prius shows a C1241 code, which can mean abnormally high or low positive voltage in the auxiliary battery. In my case it appears to be abnormally high, because my voltmeter showed the battery charged to 18 volts with the car off, and when running it showed 20 volts going to the battery. There's also a POA80 code (hybrid battery pack) but I'm not convinced yet that it's a hybrid battery problem. What would cause the overcharging of the auxiliary battery?
View 8 Replies
My 2006 Toyota Prius with 130k miles i had the 12v battery replaced 4 months ago because I had the dashboard not turning on when starting the car. I drive about 200 miles everyday for work (deliveries) so the car basically is turned on all day.
Last week when I got home turned off my prius when I turned it back on later that night the dashboard would not turn on. Tried disconnecting the 12v battery and still no dashboard. Drove around like that for two days until Friday when suddenly the dashboard turned on and everything was fine.
Later that night I turned on the prius and the dashboard didn't turn on again, shut it off and turned it back on, dashboard turned on.
Now the big issue: The ICE does not want to turn on. Vsc and abs lights with the triangle of death are on. Code reader wasn't showing any codes.
I towed the prius to my mechanic so I wouldn't get stranded with only the electric motor running, he checked the 12v battery, fuses and relays. Moving the car around on his lot they discharged the hybrid battery. At first there were still no check engine light and no codes. Now the prius is throwing the p3000 code.
View 10 Replies
My wife was driving the Prius today and triggered P3000 code, the triangle popped up and the battery blower fan runs full on. I of course googled it and see it can be due to battery overheating? How should i go about trouble shooting this?
View 19 Replies
I have a 2003 Prius with a hard falt code of P3000 main battery bad! But there is not anything wrong with the batt or how it runs. I cleared the code and in 10 miles or so it comes right back? I was thinking of a reflash on the computer, what to do?
View 1 Replies
I was driving my 2005 Toyota Prius and all of a sudden some lights came on the dash. The orange check engine light, The big red Triangle with an exclamation mark on it, the orange VSC symbol, and the orange exclamation mark all at once. I also heard the fans in the back seat kicked in which I never heard before. It felt as though the car didn't have much acceleration. I took it to the dealer and they had it a whole week trying to figure out what it was wrong. They said they got the P3000 INF 123 code from the car which they said the HV control ECM for $2000. Needless to say I don't want to pay that! I found used ECM on ebay for $85 and I bought a scangauge 2 . I pulled 2 different codes out with the scan gauge 2 P0A80 and P3021.
Do you think the dealer diagnosis is right? What does the codes I read out mean?
View 4 Replies
I have a 2004 prius with p3000 sub 123 this is the only code. This happen after a replace a cell. Now I check every cell all of them are around 8 V.
P3000 subcode 123 is abnormal signal from the battery...
View 1 Replies
I drive a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee, 6 cylinder engine, with about 120,000 miles on it. I used a code scanner and pulled a P0138 code-bank 1 sensor 2 O2 sensor high voltage, if I'm correct. First of all, it looks like this sensor is after the catalytic converter, right? So I think I either have a bad 02 sensor or a bad catalytic converter. What are the consequences of driving around without fixing this? Will I see any reduction in fuel economy, or any potential long-term problems elsewhere?
View 2 Replies
I am working on a 2003 Prius with 120k. It died when the owner was coming to a stop. He had it towed to the dealer who told him it needed an inverter and quoted $4600 to replace it. I replaced the inverter with a used unit from a wrecked car. After clearing the codes the car starts and runs but after a few minutes the triangle of death comes back and codes P3000 and P3009 are set.
Battery voltages are as follows.
Where the best place to start diagnosing the leak is ?
View 19 Replies
2014 Prius V. Voltage on headlights 14. 63 volts. This reading is from of the low beam headlights. What could be causing this problem.
View 7 Replies
I have a 2007 prius. The headlamp, "high voltage", is going on and off. Is there an alternative or lower cost bulb and instructions on how to replace the bulb. I've heard you have to loosen one side of the bumper?
View 2 Replies
I have a problem with my 2002 Prius when I was driving down the highway the master warning light came on with a warning display screen appearing saying that there is a problem in the Hybrid System and then the car went into shut down mode. I had it towed to the dealer for diagnosis and an estimate. The codes read were P3000, P3004, P3125, and P3009 they did not tell me the sub-codes read. Their diagnosis was the inverter needed to be replaced. The Main battery on this car had been replacing at 140,000 and there has not been a problem since the car has been well taken care of throughout its life. Being new to working on hybrids but not cars and electronics I figured I could replace it cheaper than the dealer price of $4200. With the age of the car and high miles 175,000 I figured it would not be worth the new part price so I got a guaranteed used inverter. After replacing the inverter I still got the same problem with no change.
So I decided I would have to diagnose it myself. The car starts and runs fine and starts charging the battery right away as normal but if try to but it in reverse or drive it fails so that means the short would have to be in the transaxle. I decided to test MG1 and MG2 for shorts and I figured I would need to use a megger to do this but I did not all three winding on MG2 test shorted to ground on the 200-ohm scale on a regular ohm meter. Then after closer inspection of MG2 cables, you can see a coating of corrosion running up all three cables. So the question I have is this corrosion on the cables a common problem for 1st gen and could it be possibly just a cable issue and not MG2 and can the cables be replaced without dropping the engine and transaxle???
View 3 Replies
I have an opportunity to get a high voltage battery from a salvage Prius. I don't need a replacement now but thought having an extra battery would be a good idea. How long can the battery be stored? Maybe switch them out every few months to keep both charged?
View 3 Replies
I have had issues for over a week now first problem check engine light not sure of the code but the mechanic said it was the spark plugs and vaccum leak hose (which I knew about the hose). $205.00 later replaced all 6 plugs and hose. Now today on way to work I'm getting that hesitation when in lower gear such as stopping and then accelerating it jerks some it was doing this alot before replacing the plugs.
We did a diagnostic code reader and it said the code P2402 I did read it could be my gas cap which I don't have a dealer gas cap on there now I did about 1 yr 1/2 ago but got a lock key gas cap instead. I have been doing some reading I would need to replace leak detection pump which apparently costly in repair.
BTW car has 119,000 miles I commute far from work 5 days a week. My car is very important part of my life! I did also read someone stated there was a recall on Mazda 6 wondering do I need to call the dealership to see if this is actual recall and I can cross my fingers get this fixed on them.
View 3 Replies
Car stalled and ran on battery only. Set code P3125, and depleted aux battery. So, I replaced the inverter and recharged aux battery.
Drove it 20-30 miles test driving it, when the MIL came on.
Drove home and found 2 codes set, 1st was set while driving, 2nd was set after parking.
P3000/123 - MPH=22 MG2.RPM=1280 SOC=65% Position=D
P3125/287 - MPH=1 SOC=60% Position=P
Any TSB on this issue?
View 8 Replies
Today I'm installing a UHF/VHF radio in the X and after I got the cable run through the firewall I started looking for either a) the best route to the battery or b) a junction box the PO put in of which I have many.
So as I'm poking around on the drivers side of the engine compartment I find a large bore wire that terminates into a junction block with 'caution, high voltage' printed on the cover. This is right under the area where all the other junction blocks, relays and alarm from the PO are. Unfortunately the PO used wire who's gauge is to small for my current needs.
The block in question is shown in the following photos. It can easily be seen just left of the 86 written on the side of the relay. You can see a bit of red positive cable going into the black box below the relays. My question is if this is an OEM box or something aftermarket.
Zoomed in: Large gauge wire with red entering the box
Zoomed out for reference
View 14 Replies
So I received the P1121 and took it to the dealer. They told me I also had a P3000. I called another dealer and they said the P3000 could be caused by the P1121 not giving it enough coolant. So I brought it back to the house, bought the valve listed in the forums, and I spent all day changing that + the coolant. I drained the coolant and between the reservoir and the radiator cap itself I refilled about 4 QT, and I saw that my inverter coolant was just below the low line, so I filled it up to the full line. Afterwards, I tried to get the coolant to flow, and it seems like I won't flow. The check engine light immediately came back on and the car said, "Problem." So I immediately shut it off and let it set for a few days. How do I get it so that the coolant starts flowing again. I haven't seen any of the levels move whatsoever on the radiator.
View 8 Replies
Bought a used 2002 Prius in December of last year. When I got it home the hybrid system warning light and the check engine light came on, but after reading through priuschat for a few hours I thought to take a look at the engine air filter, which turned out to be utterly filthy. Replaced it and the car ran fantastically for the next 8 months, which was plenty of time for me to fall utterly in love with how quiet it is and how smooth a ride it is.
The carfax report for the car showed that its battery was replaced shortly before I bought it and that its transmission fluid was changed approximately 20k miles before that, so I thought (apparently mistakenly) that I didn't have to worry too much about either.
During these 8 months the car saw my regular mechanic for oil changes twice, had a bad CV axle replaced and I was told the serpentine belt was glazing and may need to be replaced with the next oil change, but neither I nor my regular mechanic noticed any other issues.
View 17 Replies
i just got a 1999 ford explorer with a 4.0 SOHC it runs fine except it came with a bad alternator and a melted EEC diode. So I put in a new alternator and diode, but it was putting out 15.5V and melted the new diode in two days . So I took it back and they said it was bad and gave me a new one. After i put this one in it gave me 16.5v and melted the new new diode in one day. I took this one back and they said it was fine and only putting out 15V. Is there anything else that can give me high voltage and melt a diode beside the alternator?
View 11 Replies
2001 Prius
I was able to pull codes this evening ( no subcodes).
The codes are as follows:
P3000, Battery Control System Malfunction
P3030, Battery Voltage Detective Line Snapped
Will the P3030 cause a P3000 to pop up since it appears I have one of the 19 voltage detect lines corroded or broken?
Once I fix this issue, is there a chance that the P3000 will disappear?
I was just getting the triangle and the Main Battery error on the MFD up until yesterday. Yesterday, the ! with the car came on (Hybrid system) on the MFD. I did not check any codes until today. Car will currently not start at all.
Aux battery voltage is confirmed to be 12.3 volts via the MFD in the diagnostic mode so it's good to go.
No one around has a scan tool that will also pull the subcodes.
View 12 Replies
