Prius (Gen 2) :: 12v Battery Need To Be Changed On Regular Schedule?
Mar 3, 2012
Does the 12v battery need to be changed on a regular schedule? There are many articles on "how to" but could find no info when it is needed.
View 19 RepliesDoes the 12v battery need to be changed on a regular schedule? There are many articles on "how to" but could find no info when it is needed.
View 19 RepliesI wanna know if I can take a regular car battery 500-600 cca to replace the old aux battery.
View 9 RepliesIs it possible to do a long charge of the hybrid battery with a regular battery charger? If so how?
View 5 RepliesI have a problem with my central locking, I changed the battery in the fob but it won't lock the car, if I lock with the key the fob will unlock the car. When I press the lock button there is a clunk-clunk as if the central locking is working and I can hear the noise in the doors and the boot but nothing happens. The battery was totally flat and I haven't been using the fob for a long time but I seem to recall it used to lock.
View 6 RepliesJust changed out my 12v battery in my 2008 Prius, I found water in the battery compartment. There have been heavy rains this past weekend but it should not have entered the car.
View 11 RepliesI tried a few used batteries I had laying around, so then I ordered the exact battery that was in the fob, Panasonic 2032 and it still doesn't work. The car has always sensed my hand at door and I still don't need to put the key in the slot. I can just push start, but the lock and unlock buttons don't respond.
I've read that the red light should come on when the buttons are pressed, and they don't with the new battery so the new battery is probably too weak.
I changed a bad cell in my hybrid battery (only one cell was bad) and put everything back together and it wont start. I've double checked all connections, fuses, everything I took off. I put the orange plug back in, fiddled with it, pushed it in more. It's got a brand new 12V battery and I dropped it off at autozone to get it charged up as well. Here are some pics and what it's showing .....
View 5 RepliesRecently, we had to change the 12V auxiliary battery on our 2010 Prius IV. Everything went smoothly and the entire procedure took less than 20 minutes. We thought everything was good, until we turned on the radio.
Since we changed the 12V battery, the FM radio (which is part of the NAV console) has great difficulty keeping any station tuned. Before changing the 12V battery, we could drive around and listen to our favorite FM radio stations; now, the radio frequently loses reception, and our music frequently gets interrupted with static.
It's been a couple months, and the situation has not improved. We took a look at the antenna, and nothing looks out of the ordinary. It seem odd that changing a 12V aux battery would cause this problem, but we have not made any other changes (not even an oil change) for several months.
I own a 2008 Prius and I have been taking it to the dealer for service because it seems like non-Toyota shops don't know how to economically service the Prius.I'm seeing that the dealer I go to also seems to want to change the filters and rotate the tires at every service and this really increases the cost well above a normal oil change price.
How often have people really been changing the engine filter; cabin filter; and rotating tires? How often is this really necessary? I'm at 108000 miles now.
Just bought a 2013 ES300H after ten Acura's. My car is two and a half years old and wondering how long does the original battery last. On Acura's it is about three years. There was no warning when they went.
View 6 RepliesI Have a 2005 Camry LE. My remote is not working.
I had the remote battery changed, and also bought a new one on ebay and did the programming, which was successful, but still not working.
So old battery was on its last breath, made it to autozone, got a new Duralast Gold battery (don't really know how good it is, but had 5 year warranty and 3 year replacement). figured what the hell. anyway, now the car idles at about 500rpm or sometimes a little below that and shakes like its about to stall. never stalls though.
View 12 RepliesI have a 2013 Hyundai Sonata GLS with 55,000 miles. I was told to replace the plugs and battery by my local automotive shop. I decided to do it myself to save a couple of dollars just this past week. I filled up the car today and noticed the MPG dropped significantly. Normally a full the tank shows I have 420 miles to go. Today it showed 370 a difference of 50 miles.
I have two ideas why this happened:
1) Replacing the battery has caused the computer to reset and as a result it is showing the wrong mileage. After a week or two of running the correct mileage will show. I drove the car about 150 miles after changing the battery and thought this would of been enough time for the computer to figure out the MPG if this was the problem.
2) I caused damage to the Iridium plugs when I gapped them and did not notice it. I used Autolite XP6203 model and gapped them at .044. Autolites do not come pre-gapped I was told. The car is not hesitating and runs smooth. I am thinking this is the problem but not 100% certain.
Is my idea about the computer valid and I should give it some time to recalculate MPG? I am thinking to give it a couple of tanks of gas and see if the car fixes itself
The mainteance reminder on my 2008 CRV allows me to go 12,000 miles between changes which seems crazy long on a mix of city/highway driving in extreme conditions in MN. Should I trust this thing? What kind of algorithm do they use? How hot/cold it's been?
View 14 Replies2009 2.4 Sonata. Replaced the battery. Engine light came on after battery replacement. Engine code P0106 (MAP sensor or vacuum leak). Car drove fine before and after the battery replacement. Engine light after replacing battery?
View 2 RepliesInstalled new alternator cleaned terminals car started charging one week later battery died changed battery cleaned all grounds going to battery checked all connections coming from battery to alternator car is still not charging what should i look at next?
View 1 Replies2006 GS300 ... Car died while driving at about 25 mph - Car was in Drive (D) when died and wife put into park (P) after she coasted into parking lot. To load onto flatbed had to use manual shift lock release to get to neutral. Battery was completely dead--Optima Red Top.
Changed battery and dash lights came on a system Navigation unit showed system loading and not to turn off power - it loaded and when I tried to start the car it would not start. Put car into neutral to eliminate the Park sensor issue and still would not start. ALL lights and systems are very bright as they should be and I hear a faint hum which almost sounds like a fuel pump staying on but in the engine compartment/dash area---very faint hum.
Tried disconnecting battery a few times and to allow ECU to reset and still would not reset. Prior to this the car was having the VSC issue with the transmission not shifting past 3rd - I know the solenoid packs are probably bad but not sure this would affect the engine start up.
Tried both remotes to make sure it saw key. It acts almost like it is not seeing a safe to start (not in Park) or neutral....
My 2004 Phaeton has 167,000 KMs on it right now, but the maintenance schedule on the user manual ends at 166,000 KMs, I have checked with the VW dealer, they said once the car goes pass that mileage, you just start over again, treat it like a new car, i wonder if this is true?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2004 jetta gls wagon with a 1.8t. the car ran just fine and had a tune running 16psi strong. I changed the battery in it and now the car wont boost, bogs out and SLAMS hard from gear to gear ( auto 5 speed ). I don't have vag com. I just need to get the car to drive with out it. Even if i get back to factory tune im ok with it.
View 8 Replies2001 Celica, battery dead after seeming to crank more slowly each time it was started during the day (wife was driving). I disconnected the battery to charge/test it, after reconnecting it started immediately but after 1-2 seconds engine dies. RPMs can be coaxed up to 3,000 in that time, but even though it seems to be running fine it shuts completely off, no coughing or sputtering. Won't start at all unless key is turned off and then back on, then it will do the same as described above.
It's giving a P1300 Igniter Circuit Malfunction No. 1 error code. Possible causes listed are:
- Ignition Coil No. 1 harness is open or shorted
- Ignition Coil No. 1 circuit poor electrical connection
- Faulty Ignition Coil No. 1
- Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM)
Seems to me a lot like the last, the ECM.
I put an O'reileys alternator in my truck today. Drove it most the day and did some plowing with it and it was fine. I just went out to run to the gas station and now the battery light is on. The voltage is still good.
View 14 Replies