The 2007 Prius starts and runs fine with no problem. However, the 12v battery check with a multimeter shows 9.9v reading. Does this mean that the 12v Battery is coming to end of life and needs to be replaced.
View 13 RepliesI tried to turn on my car this morning, but the "Ready" sign didn't go on. The whole display is black. "Check Engine" sign blinked briefly. Battery display shows the battery is "green". Everything else works - cd/radio/bluetooth, etc. As I tried to start it, the screen showed that the engine briefly charged the Prius battery, then it was all quite. I tried to wait and restart a few times, but still the display was all black and no "ready" sign. I WAS able to still move the car, but I didn't chance to drive it out of the garage. I just had it serviced (oil/fluid change). Small battery was replaced in July.
View 19 RepliesMy truck shows check engine when i drive it cold but after i reset the battery, start and warm it up for few minutes i don't get the error codes
1. It says evaporative emission control system malfunction for the p0440
2. EECS incorrect purge flow for p0441
3. EECS Vent Control Circuit malfunction for p0446
I have 3 error codes and I don't know where to start?
2002 Ford Windstar: Whenever I disconnect the battery and then reconnect it, I get this hum that sounds like the CD player preparing to play a CD. There is no CD in the player. It last for about 30 seconds and then stops. Afterwards, my check engine light comes on and stay on until I have the mechanic reset the alarm. The battery is new. My meter shows that the battery is giving out enough volts. It annoys me to have the check engine light on all of the time. I'd rather it be off so it can report if something else goes wrong with the engine.
View 1 RepliesI've got a 2001 Volkswagen Jetta 1.8T Wolfsburg Edition.
Recently the temp gauge sits at 260* as soon as the car starts, but it's not actually overheating. Car runs/drives fine and will do so for many, many miles. Even in stop and go traffic. Was told the thermostat was replaced, but that didn't fix the issue although it doesn't sound like a thermostat issue since the car isn't actually overheating. Coolant is topped off as well.
I am thinking it's a bad sensor. Where is it located on this car?
Car is a friends and she said she took it to a shop to have the coolant checked and they were also the ones who did the thermostat.
I have a 2008 Pontiac GT, regularly maintained and all runs fine. Just one problem that has popped up over the last few weeks since the warmer weather has arrived: On the computer readout in the dash, if the "Coolant" display shows a temperature (say, 83C or what have you), then the AC works. However, much of the time the Coolant reading shows "---" (3 blank dashes), and the AC does not work. It's still been quite cool around here (Toronto area) so I haven't needed the AC much but it's heating up and I'd sure love to take care of this if possible.
View 4 RepliesMy '06 only shows 1 blue bar when I start up. Is this a bad indication as to its' longevity? Got me a little worried......126K on the car.
View 11 Replies2006 Prius with 130k miles. I'm thinking that my HV battery has slowly deteriorated to the point where it's causing drivability issues, and now needs to be replaced.
The main symptoms I'm experiencing are rapid charge/discharge according to the MFD and significant loss of power once the battery has discharged to one bar. I realize the latter is "normal," but the problem is that I'm seeing one bar frequently now. Hill climbs that my car used to do with no problem and would drain the SOC to 2-3 bars now cause the battery to drain to 1 bar about half-way up and then loss of speed from 65 mph to 45 mph by the time I reach the top. Descending hills, it's not unusual to see the SOC go from 2 bars to 7-8 bars within 30 seconds or so.
I'm not seeing any error lights, and my (cheap) code reader does not report any logged DTCs.
This seems to be a slow degradation of battery performance, rather than an outright failure. I first noticed that the battery would charge/discharge a little quicker than it had been at about 90k miles. At 99k (before the warranty ended) I took it into the dealer and they tested the HV battery. Block voltages ranged from 16.59 to 16.68 V and resistances ranged from 0.025 to 0.026 ohms. Based on this, they said that the battery was fine, and sent me on my way. Since then, the problem has just gotten worse and worse, though.
I have a 2006 Chevy Colorado, 5 cylinder, automatic, 4wheel drive with 62,700mi. 1st problem occurred in 2013 new thermostat was replaced then in 2015 temp. gauge shows overheating problem again. All diagnostic problems have been analyzed by mechanic and nothing further could be done. Mechanic suggests to take truck to dealer. The temp. reading still shows above normal operation and the engine compartment has signs of overheating also. If the truck driven on uphill range the temp. goes higher I refuse to drive in this condition which will surely ruin the entire engine.
View 2 RepliesMy 2010 Prius with 72k miles on it. I bought a OBDII scanner and read P0401 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Insufficient Detected. The check engine light comes on for few days, then go away for few weeks and then come back again. It's been doing the exact same thing (Come on for few days and then go away) in last few months. But I do not feel any different in terms of driving.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2007 Prius and the red triangle showed up. It has less than 50,000 miles. I noticed that almost right after I start it up the hybrid battery fan kicks on. This leads me to believe that maybe one or more cells in the hybrid battery are overheating due to charging problems. Is there a way I can check this out without going to the dealer?
View 3 RepliesI just bought a 06 F250 King Ranch and the information center on the gauge cluster just shows the current odometer reading. When I press the information button that is supposed to toggle between trip mileage and avg mpg just the odometer shows. This truck was vandalized (bought from auction) so I am wondering does it have a XL cluster so I am asking are all the clusters different between XL, XLT, Lariat, King Ranch, etc and I have the wrong one installed or maybe there is an issues with my information center.
View 3 RepliesMy friend got an 04 treg v6 and has that warning up on the cluster. How I can fix this? And does my vagcom cable for a mk4 work on a toureg, or is this canbus?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2004 rx330 and it's recently been acting up. Sometimes the heat and air won't work, there is a noticeable difference in the way the car drives too.
I hit climate and it shows check air conditioner connection line and nothing works, it's making for very cold drives to and from work.
Tried to start my car this morning and nothing .(headlight switch was off),checked the battery and it read less than 1 volt (did return to 5 volts after being disconnected for a while). Drove the day before with no apparent problems or lights. Battery is a die hard gold about a year and a half old. checked pos battery cable to ground read 1.8 ohms went up into the high k ohms when I removed the horn/stop fuse(which was good) .Also after market alarm installed. Am I chasing gremlins or did the battery just suddenly die.
View 6 RepliesJust hit 70,000 miles and went out of warranty. The issue is the Heads Up Display periodically shows "Check Back Up Sensor". When this occurs the sensors do not detect, and this doesn't happen all the time. I did clean the lens on each of them.
View 1 RepliesSo I went to start the car (2013 C3) and it wouldn't start. The batter was horribly dead (dim screen and would only go into POWER ON mode.) I charged the battery for like a half hour using a plug in charger using the hood terminals. When I tried to turn it on later, The only thing that came on was the check engine light (really dim) so it's not charged up enough yet obviously. The issue is now it won't turn off. That check engine light is still there. No other screens are on and the vehicle doesn't make any other noises (door ajar, etc.)
View 7 RepliesI have been having an intermittent (2 times in the past 2000 miles) oil pressure gauge not reading. As I own a 6.0L I understand that this is just a pressure switch in reality and if the engine was starved of oil the HPOP system would kill the engine. The first time the oil gauge went out it was raining out. The second time was after going through a carwash and getting the underbody wash. At this time my battery light also came on for a few seconds.
Both problems seemed to go away after an engine restart. Today it is snowing lightly and my battery light came on again. I happened to be monitoring the battery voltage and FICM voltage via OBD II using Torque app. At no time while the battery light was on today did the battery voltage drop below 13.5V. The FICM was also stable at 48.5+/-.5V.
As the battery voltage read by the PCM is not actually dropping and the previous oil pressure gauge and the fact that my left blinker indicator is out I am thinking I may have electrical issues with the gauge cluster. I have never had these issues while driving in dry weather. Where do I start troubleshooting this? Also I am going out of town for the next two weeks and my girlfriend was going to use the vehicle. Is it OK for her to drive?
My 2001 Buick Lasebre is not starting properly. I have to pump the gas several times before it will start; then when it is started at low speeds or idle it wants to stall. As long as I can some how keep pushing the gas peddle it wont stall. On the other hand when I am driving at higher speeds, anything above 40 or so it runs perfect. The check engine light was on and shows EGR valve stuck open. I have replaced the Mass airflow sensor, fuel filter, and the EGR valve. I had the code cleared and a short while later my check engine light came back on with the exact same reading. I bought this car only a week ago and was not expecting to have to fix a car I just bought and ran fine while test driving it. I have read may different forum that say that it could be anything from my fuel pump to vacuum hoses, to some other sensor.
View 19 RepliesI have a 2007 Sante Fe with the 3.3 engine. Having a problem with the Fuel gauge not reading correctly and a check engine light. The engine code indicated that the problem was with the sending unit in the tank on the "A" side (behind the driver). I checked with Hyundai and with a tech line service and they indicated that it was a common problem and I needed to replace both the "A" & "B" units to correct the problem. I did that and cleared the codes and it set another code indicating that the "B" unit was the source of the code. I pulled the "B" unit again and checked the wiring and the problem still was there. I switched out the units on the "B" side again with the old unit and the problem is still there.
View 4 RepliesI just switched out my hybrid battery and put in a brand new one. Now, the car isn't doing anything and all that's on is the check engine light. What now? I was told I had to tow it to Toyota and have them reset the computer. Sound right?
View 7 Replies