I have a Gen 1 that won't start after sitting. ECU considers the pack disconnected. 12v brand new.
What is the easiest way to get it going without removing the pack?
I have two Prius's, a 2008 and a 2005. My 2005 with 129k miles on it is the one in question. Recently I got a check engine light with the code P0A80 and P3016. I purchased a pair of tested to be good cells from Ebay which finally arrived in the mail yesterday. Today I finally got around to installing it and everything was pretty self explanatory... One of 28 cells tested to have 6.24v in block six and all the others had between 7.98-8.00v all around. I went ahead and replaced the bad cell with the new one and put everything back together and now the car will not start.
Cliff notes: Replaced bad cell in main battery back due to CEL P0A80 and P3016.
Car will not start, only turns on...
Getting error message on the radio screen about the Park position is not correct and to park the car on a flat level ground with parking brakes and try again.
Have charged the 12v battery to make sure it has enough juice in it.
I have a 2007 Prius IV and recently experienced the following:
a. I can't open door by just pulling handle nor lock all doors by depressing door button. I must use the UNLOCK/LOCK feature on the FOB
b. I can't start the car remotely while sitting in driver's seat. FOB must be inserted in slot to start car.
c. I have strong mini-RED light indication on my FOB which should indicate proper battery power.
I disconnect my Avalon 2007 battery and after connect it the car won't start.
View 13 Replies2004 Pontiac Grand Am GT, 3.4L V6...It only starts if the battery has been disconnected for at least an hour and then is immediately reconnected prior to use. Once the block is hot, however, it starts flawlessly and repeatedly every time. When the block cools, it won't start again unless I disconnect the battery and wait an hour. I did a bunch of tests without first disconnecting the battery: The fuel bar is pressurizing properly, the crankshaft position sensor works, the ignition control module has power, the plugs and wires are in good condition and have the right resistance. The coils are fine.
I did an OBD-II scan as well, no codes. However, unless I go through the disconnect-wait-reconnect procedure, there appears to be only a weak spark. I don't think it's the ignition security feature. There's no security light, performing a security reset does not fix anything, and the car starts repeatedly and reliably as long as the block is hot. I was wondering if it might be a failing sensor that has a thermal dependence? Should I look at the powertrain control module? The ignition control module?
2003 Pontiac Grand Am GT, 3.4L V6...It only starts if the battery has been disconnected for at least an hour and then is immediately reconnected prior to use. Once the block is hot, however, it starts flawlessly and repeatedly every time. When the block cools, it won't start again unless I disconnect the battery and wait an hour.
View 2 RepliesI've searched & still haven't resolved my problem.
View 19 Replies1.8 had recent coil pack problems? I recently had a coil pack fail in very hot weather 2 weeks ago. This week during another heat wave I believe the coil was again causing the engine to start missing. I know about VW's past reliability problems concerning coil packs and am now concerned that this may be surfacing again.
View 8 RepliesService is coming. I have road service reimbursement. Do I have to disconnect ground cable if jumping it to start and not recharging it? The service guy said they would hook up a charge box to it but didn't need to take off the ground cable. I should make sure he switched the power of the box off when connecting and disconnecting the cables, right?
Does it work to leave it idling or do I have to drive it and for how long? Manual shows a way to jump from another vehicle, but it needs another car with a 12V battery. Most cars have a 12V battery though don't they, or are they the wrong type and have to have another hybrid car to jump from. Do you use regular cables to do this?
What is reverse polarity and what did they do to the car that damaged the control system?
I have a 2008 Prius. I drove it around in Florida for a few days and everything ran great, but about 4 hours into the trip back to Minnesota, the red ! triangle light came on with a message on the display screen. It said "There is a problem with the transmission "P" lock mechanism Park your your car on a flat surface and fully apply the parking brake." This happened as I was driving, so I pulled over and did what it told me. After shutting down the car, I tried starting it back up and none of the gears worked. P, R, D, or B.
The message still displayed and the red ! light was still on. After shutting it on off several times, it finally started. No warnings. I found the nearest Toyota dealer and had them check it out. They found nothing but one short circuit, around the same time the warning lights would have gone on. I googled the problem, and it seemed like everyone was saying the problem is caused by a bad 12V battery, so I told the dealer to put in a new one. I was on the road again. However, the first stop I made for gas and sure enough, the light came back and I couldn't get it into a gear without restarting the car several times. I just hope I won't need to spend any more money on this 2 year old car.
I have a 2013 Prius with 15k miles, and this happened to me recently for the first time:
- Drove 40 miles
- 24 hours of inactivity
- Drove a very short distance, maybe for 60 seconds, just enough for the ICE to start
- 48 hours inactivity
- Start car, ICE starts, but sputters and sounds like an old, sick lawnmower, and dies after 3-4 seconds. The "check hybrid system" warning is displayed, and I read a P3191 DTC
- Turn off car, repeat three more times, and by the third time, the warning lights went away, and the ICE runs fine again now.
I took the car to a Toyota dealer, and they told me that they didn't see any problems. A friend of mine had the exact same problem with a 2012 Prius, after the same scenario (3 days inactivity with a 60 second trip in the middle of the inactive period).
Customer's car died about 2 hours from me. What this could be? It is at a shop now, and I walked them through how to test the main fusable link in the engine bay, and they said it was good. They also checked the 12v battery and that tested good. Here is what happened.
The customer was driving, then he said the triangle of the death and check engine light came on. Then, he kept driving for a little while and then all the sudden everything went dark and he coasted to the shoulder. The car hasn't had the inverter coolant pump recall done, so I am leaning towards that. The car's dome lights come on, the key can unlock and lock the car, but if you slide the key in and press the power button, nothing happens. What on earth would cause that?
I posted earlier getting failure codes that might indicate something wrong with the battery pack. The codes were P3000, subcode 123, v0100 subcode 211/330. My independent mechanic said that I needed both the battery pack and the battery ECU replaced, based on these codes and the fact that they tested the hybrid pack under load.
At the same time, my auxiliary battery was low. You folks suggested replacing that first.
So I did. I have so far driven over 140 miles without the engine check light and triangle of death coming on again. But I do notice that the SOC screen shows my battery going into the green far more often and far more readily than I remember it doing so in the past. All it takes is a little downhill (say quarter to half a mile) and it will go into green--sometimes 100%.
I'm guess what I'm looking for is some sort of objective data that says my mechanics are right and not shining me on.
We disconnected our 12V battery in order to reset the check engine light (went on driving at high altitude w/ 87 octane). Locked the car, came back the requisite 20 minutes and can't open the driver's door with the physical key.
We understand it should turn a short way, then require considerable force, tho not necessarily pliers. A little nervous about using pliers to force it ... ?
We're pretty sure we tested the key when we bought our used 2008, but can't remember. Should the key be 'reversable' i.e., go in either way?
Is there a way to open the rear hatch if battery is disconnected either from the inside or outside? Is there a cable or something for emergency?
View 2 RepliesHow do I turn off that Severe Weather alert when I start the vehicle? I remember reading the trick somewhere ... But cannot locate it now.
View 5 RepliesFrom my understanding, there are 3 batteries in the PIP. 2 of them are for EV mode, and 1 is for Hybrid mode. they are all hooked up together and also the electric motor when it is fully charged. when the first pack (ev pack) get's depleted, it will disconnect via relays from the remaining 2 packs. then when the second pack is depleted (second EV pack) it will discontinue from the last remaining pack. below is a small simple diagram of what it looks like:
Fully charged: (EV1)-----(EV2)-----(HYBRID)-----[motor]
1st pack depleted. still in EV mode: (EV1)---x---(EV2)-----(HYBRID)-----[motor]
both EV packs depleted and in HYBRID mode: (EV1)---x---(EV2)---x---(HYBRID)----[motor]
(x = disconnected)
Back in November/December I discharge/charge-cycled each module in my battery pack 3+ times after replacing 3 bad modules. I didn't get to reassemble everything and drive the car until the holidays. On short trips around town, everything seemed okay, but on longer trips (limited data here, but say 40-45 miles) I got the red triangle and some other lights (see photo). I read the code as P3024 which from what I find means Battery Block 14 Becomes Weak. I can clear the code and the car is happy until the next trip...
View 19 RepliesDoes PIP have two different batteries for each mode (EV and Hybrid) or is it the same battery?
View 10 RepliesI have a 2002 prius that threw a spark plug and loosened the coil pack. The mechanic just reinstalled the plug and tightened the coil pack and said it was fine. Why it would throw a spark plug?? It was running fine, no warning lights, i just heard an unusual slight noise and opened the hood to check it out, and notice the loose coil pack over the first spark plug
View 2 RepliesAbout 1500 miles ago, I replaced a cell in the battery pack. Now the triangle of dead is back and the code is "replace battery pack" again.
I tested all the cells and here are the results.
(the previous one I replaced was 4.5 volts, very low and easy to find)