Prius (Gen 1) :: Code P3125 After INV Coolant Pump Replacement
Jul 15, 2011
I picked up a 2003 that had a bad AUX battery and P3130 code. Just FYI, aside from the battery it drives fine. Kicks the Warning light after about 15 miles but since the battery was bad it kept getting reset. Replaced the battery with a nice optima conversion.
Took out the inverter coolant pump, tested the circuit (good), tested the pump (bad). Replaced with a new one from dealer. Set up the bleeder tubes and massaged the lines till the new pump stopped SCREAMING at me. Added probably 2 qts of TLLC total. Bleeder tubes never had enough pressure to push fluid back up to reservoir but got solid 2 inches of fluid with no bubbles. Topped of the coolant. Went for a drive around the block, made it halfway (about 28mph) before the light kicked in and the motor seemed to bog down. Limped back home and read the 3125 Code. Code reader does not give me sub codes.
2003 Prius 154K miles on ODO.
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I'm sitting at my Toyota dealer where I bought the car 3 weeks ago. My car is in because it needs to have the engine coolant pump replaced due to a leak. Is this a common fix for the gen 2 Prius? Fortunately this is getting covered under warranty.
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After a long day at work, I stepped out of my '06 Prius and was greeted by an obviously struggling CHRS pump. It sounded like it was having a hard time maintaining speed, and to my ears was screaming; better replace soon...
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I bought an 01 Prius with 148k miles. It had code P3125 which mean bad inverter. I replaced the inverter with one from a junk yard with 81k miles. As soon as I was done the car started right up, and I didnt get electrocuted!
Right after the car started I got codes P3115 P3001 and P 3191. I cleared them out and turned off the car for a min.
When I started the car again I got codes P3030 and P3001.
This car has an extensive service history, It has a new Cat and exhaust, a new accessory and HV traction battery that are less than 8 months old. Crank position sensor is new. fuel tank is new.
What could be causing the P3030 and the P3001?
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My Wife was driving our 2001 Prius and got the big triangle and the car went into limp mode.
The Codes were P3100 (info code 196) and P3125 (info code 325)
P3100/196 = Internal Error - Generator CPU Malfunction
3125/325 - Inverter Internal Short. - Generator Inverter Fin - Inverter Internal short
Clear the codes and the car runs fine, but the problem will eventually resurface.
The dealer wanted tor replace both the converter/inverter and HV ECU.
I purchased replacement converter/inverter from Ebay and inverter coolant pump (new) and installed.
Problem eventually resurfaced. I purchased replacement HV ECU from ebay and installed.
Engine would not start (does not attempt to even turn over), but was not throwing any codes. I had this same symptom with a third HV ECU as well. The part numbers on the HV ECU were exact matches.
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Working on a 2002 prius with 153k miles. bought it with a "Bad transmission" diagnosed by toyota dealer. Got I home and did a quick check but there were no codes. I drove it about 50 feet into my garage where it would shudder badly while being driven which from my experience sounds like a bad MG2 motor. Drained the oil and thought hhmmm th oil does not smell bad and neither did it look burned. Proceeded to pull the mg2 but found it looked brand new, no burned spots or any such thing. SO I put it back together and think its a bad invertor. put on a different invertor that I have lying in my garage that I "think" is good and start the car. get code p3125 and p3120 and still have the bad shuddering when i try to drive it..Is there any way to test it further before I pull the trans and put a new trans back in?
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2002... 184,000+ miles
I was driving the car and triangle popped up and engine would not shut off while parked (key on) I hooked up the non prius aware scanner (carry one with me at all times) and don't remember the code, but it was a "HV malfunction".
I didn't shut the car off to clear the code as I was not home and attempted to drive it home, meanwhile engine never shut off. I had to come to a complete stop at a red light and the car died. tried restarting it but nothing. so I pushed it off to the side of the road and cleared the code. Tried again and nothing. didn't start, nothing. it beeped and error code popped up. Checked the code and it was p3125.
I know there are subcodes but online it was leading to inverter. but I replaced the inverter last year with a re involt. I had the car towed to my job for $50, to have it towed home, would cost roughly $168. When I got it to work, I did the screen thing and checked the 12v battery and it was reading 10.9 I have been meaning to get a new one for about a year now so I did.
I purchased a new optima battery and installed it yesterday, cleared the codes, tried to start it and nothing. error code p3125. What leads me to believe that it may be a transaxle, well actually a Mg2 is when my inverter went bad, it would start then shudder and die then the triangle would pop up. this time around, it doesn't even start. I have an appointment with the dealership to get the code with subcode read on Tuesday 10/15 for $98.7.
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My 2002 Prius died the other day. Getting DTC P3125 when I ran it through my scanner, but I don't have an advanced enough one to get the sub-codes. It's got 215,000 Miles on it, so I would expect something major to be happening at this point.
Here's a detailed description of what happened --- I was driving down the freeway the other day and started noticing my car was sputtering a little bit and losing a slight amount of power. I pulled over to a restaurant to say hi to a friend; when I came back out I started the car and the check engine and battery lights came on. About 10 more miles down the freeway the car started heavily limping and barely was able to get me off the freeway, then the car completely died. When I would start it back up it would die in about 5 to 10 seconds. The 12v auxiliary battery, not the main hybrid battery, had completely died.
I figured it might have been just a dead old battery that needed replacement so I put in another new one. It ran amazingly for about five minutes around the parking lot, then the same thing happened again. It completely died just like before.
The 12v battery isn't getting re-supplied with the juice it needs. Something's wrong in there.
The either the inverter is shot, it's just overheating due to a faulty coolant pump, or the MG2 generator isn't putting juice back into the 12v system.
I checked the fluid reservoir. It looks like it's flowing, but there is a few bubbles floating to the top of the fluid. Is that normal?
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Pulling into parking lot and the triangle and exclamation light appear on dash. Drive about an additional hundred feet with what felt like lower power and no noises.
- Check 12V after about an hour and it reads 12.4 volts.
- Read codes and get P3125 sub code 325.
- Temperatures and HV battery numbers all looked good.
- Clear codes and immediately code comes back with no start, nothing. Did this many times.
This code and sub code lead to the inverter failing. Being that there was no noise as a MG2 stator failure this also leads to an inverter failure right as the MG1 motor starts the engine? Inverter pump still running good as it was recently replaced along with ATX fluid. Within the last two weeks two HV modules have been replaced.
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Got a check engine light with a P2601 error code this morning - Coolant Pump Control Circuit Range/Performance.
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I own a 2006 JDM prius with 323,000 km. The inverter coolant pump failed recently (got P0A93 code and no agitation in coolant reservoir). I ordered a replacement on eBay and am awaiting arrival. I may need to do some light driving in the in the interim and am thinking about installing a 10 inch fan in the space between the inverter/transmission and radiator to keep things cool. Is this wise or should I just let the car sit until the new pump gets here?
Also, I am burning oil...I usually have to top up 1 to 2 quarts in between changes. Is there anything I can do without tearing down the engine? A friend of mine suggested using Lucas oil stabilizer the next time I change oil...could this have any negative implications?
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Have air trap in coolant after water pump replace.cannot get it out. Do I need to drain coolant again and start over. 1997 nissan pickup 2.4 liter.
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I bought my 2001 Grand Prix with a 3.8 liter (non supercharged) earlier this year. Within the first month, the check engine light came on with a P0410 code. Took it to the shop here at the auction that I work at to get repaired. He ran the diagnostics on it and found that the air pump wasn't working. He pulled it out and it was full of water, due to the air inlet being so low. So, he replaced the air pump and re routed the air inlet so that it was higher up into the engine compartment. That same night, the light came back on, so I brought it back in the next day. The relay failed and popped the fuse. Replaced both, and the light was off for a full day.
Got ready to take it in for its emissions test today, and the light came back on again. The air pump is not working, again. Turns out that the previous owner had replaced the air pump twice (once with aftermarket, and once with an OEM unit) because of the water build up and freezing the first time. I am not aware of any GM service bulletins, but there has to be something that is taking out these pumps. The only things not replaced on the secondary air system is the lower check valve and solenoid. So, what could be causing the pumps to fail prematurely?
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I recently got the solid check engine light for my 2003 VW Jetta 1.8T GLS. I used a bluetooth OBDII dongle and Torque Pro to pull the code P0118. This seems to coincide with my symptoms:
Car idle at start in park stays around 1100RPM then in reverse it drops to 1000RPM then back into park and it stays around 900RPM and keeps that at idle.
If I start the car then immediately reverse out of my driveway then the car has a very rough idle but if I wait around 5 seconds in park idle then reverse out of my driveway it is smooth.
My car dash thermometer stays pretty close to the bottom low then after about 4-5 minutes it shoots up to 190F and stays. Gas mileage is also very poor.
I looked up a tutorial which shows the parts needed and how to replace the sensor : [URL] .....
I removed the engine cover and believe I found the coolant temp sensor in the spot the tutorial shows. My question is if there is anything I should be aware of before attempting to replace this sensor that this tutorial doesn't cover? I took a screenshot of what I believe is the coolant temp sensor.
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08 Prius now at 120k. This is usually when I change the ICE water pump. I've been reading about when to change the pump, and it looks like opinions are all over the place. Generally though, consensus seems to be "change it when you see pink crystals on the pully." Is this correct?
120k is usually when I expect to drop a couple of thousand on preventative maintenance. Is this not true on the Prius? I knew running costs were low, but THIS LOW?
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Car stalled and ran on battery only. Set code P3125, and depleted aux battery. So, I replaced the inverter and recharged aux battery.
Drove it 20-30 miles test driving it, when the MIL came on.
Drove home and found 2 codes set, 1st was set while driving, 2nd was set after parking.
P3000/123 - MPH=22 MG2.RPM=1280 SOC=65% Position=D
P3125/287 - MPH=1 SOC=60% Position=P
Any TSB on this issue?
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I bought my Prius after I tested the car around town and on the highway and went smoothly. I drove the car about 200 km after the warning came on board, high temperature and cold engine warning (red and blue). Stopped the car and I found nothing to be hot (engine or inverter).
I rebooted and the errors disappeared but reappeared and on the highway (120 km) car no longer accelerate, pedal did not respond.Stopped and restarted repeatedly trying to get as close to home and a Toyota service. High and low temperature have appeared and disappeared after stopped and restarted. Warnings appear together, none or only one of them.
But after 600 km appeared turtle on board and the car stopped. I was unable to start. They came from Toyota and were able to start with another auxiliary battery and ran 10 km with a tester on the dashboard (at full throttle and the car accelerated 1 km / sec until it reached 60 km / h then accelerated normal to 125km/h. When he put the foot on brake and after that tried to accelerate again the pedal was non responsive and the car stopped again and they towed it.
Next day they told me that the ECU is faulty (the one located behind the glove compartment) together with the Auxiliary Battery.(1100 Euro ECU).They told me that the temperature sensor is 200 degrees Celsius with a cold engine.
We towed the car to another service closer to home (1300 km) and asked a second opinion telling me that is defective inverter. I decided to buy an ECU. (220 Euro/ second hand)
Meanwhile my traction battery died after they tried to start the car many times.
After I charged the traction battery (one module at a time), whole battery shown after charging 301 V.
Now I have the following :
P3120 HV transaxle / Wire harness
INF. Code 249 (Open or +B short in motor temperature sensor)
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I have been posting about P3125 fault which is inhibiting ICE from starting. During this time I have been charging and also testing the traction battery so that I could continue to investigate the P3125 problem.
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My ICE failed to start on a wooded forest road -- after the car had sat under a fir tree for a day or three it ended up starting and all the warning lights went away. I ended up taking it to the dealer though and while they replaced a leaking water pump, never found any cause for the ICE failure.
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After the warning light & triangle went on in my 2003 Prius, it turned out the inverter pump was bad. It was replaced. Now I am steadily losing MPG as I drive the car. From before the replacement, it has gone from 42 - 44 down to 36. This is in a few days time.
After I got home, I saw that the dealer put on the service ticket that the car might need a new inverter. There was no reason stated for that, and the service rep never mentioned it. In fact, the service rep said that the hybrid system would not be damaged if I drove the car with the warning light, since the hybrid system would shut itself off before any damage would be done.
There is a small leak in the radiator but on inspection, the coolant level is full (actually, while still hot, it is overfull), so I don't think that is the problem, at least not yet.
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It's been over 90 degrees. Triangle lit up with check engine and I know the inverter coolant pump is a common failure, so hoping that is the culprit. I could take to O'Reillys and scan it to see if I get related codes...but don't want to drive until fixed. On my previous gen 1 prius the pump failed and it drove poorly...lacked power (from what I remember). Maybe even cut off once or twice.
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