Prius (Gen 1) :: Changed The Battery In Fob But It Won't Lock The Car
Apr 21, 2016
I have a problem with my central locking, I changed the battery in the fob but it won't lock the car, if I lock with the key the fob will unlock the car. When I press the lock button there is a clunk-clunk as if the central locking is working and I can hear the noise in the doors and the boot but nothing happens. The battery was totally flat and I haven't been using the fob for a long time but I seem to recall it used to lock.
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Does the 12v battery need to be changed on a regular schedule? There are many articles on "how to" but could find no info when it is needed.
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Just changed out my 12v battery in my 2008 Prius, I found water in the battery compartment. There have been heavy rains this past weekend but it should not have entered the car.
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I tried a few used batteries I had laying around, so then I ordered the exact battery that was in the fob, Panasonic 2032 and it still doesn't work. The car has always sensed my hand at door and I still don't need to put the key in the slot. I can just push start, but the lock and unlock buttons don't respond.
I've read that the red light should come on when the buttons are pressed, and they don't with the new battery so the new battery is probably too weak.
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I changed a bad cell in my hybrid battery (only one cell was bad) and put everything back together and it wont start. I've double checked all connections, fuses, everything I took off. I put the orange plug back in, fiddled with it, pushed it in more. It's got a brand new 12V battery and I dropped it off at autozone to get it charged up as well. Here are some pics and what it's showing .....
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Recently, we had to change the 12V auxiliary battery on our 2010 Prius IV. Everything went smoothly and the entire procedure took less than 20 minutes. We thought everything was good, until we turned on the radio.
Since we changed the 12V battery, the FM radio (which is part of the NAV console) has great difficulty keeping any station tuned. Before changing the 12V battery, we could drive around and listen to our favorite FM radio stations; now, the radio frequently loses reception, and our music frequently gets interrupted with static.
It's been a couple months, and the situation has not improved. We took a look at the antenna, and nothing looks out of the ordinary. It seem odd that changing a 12V aux battery would cause this problem, but we have not made any other changes (not even an oil change) for several months.
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I recently replaced the battery in my key fob, just as a preventive maintenance measure. All worked fine for the first couple days.
Now, when exiting the car I push down on the door lock inside the door, get out and the doors unlock immediately. Only way to lock the car is to press the lock symbol on the fob. Touching the handle no longer works to open it. I must use the fob. The button beneath the steering column is in the correct position.
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Error messages on my dash were originally the triangle exclamation and - p lock malfunction when parking , park in a flat place and apply parking brake securely ....
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I Have a 2005 Camry LE. My remote is not working.
I had the remote battery changed, and also bought a new one on ebay and did the programming, which was successful, but still not working.
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So old battery was on its last breath, made it to autozone, got a new Duralast Gold battery (don't really know how good it is, but had 5 year warranty and 3 year replacement). figured what the hell. anyway, now the car idles at about 500rpm or sometimes a little below that and shakes like its about to stall. never stalls though.
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I have a 2013 Hyundai Sonata GLS with 55,000 miles. I was told to replace the plugs and battery by my local automotive shop. I decided to do it myself to save a couple of dollars just this past week. I filled up the car today and noticed the MPG dropped significantly. Normally a full the tank shows I have 420 miles to go. Today it showed 370 a difference of 50 miles.
I have two ideas why this happened:
1) Replacing the battery has caused the computer to reset and as a result it is showing the wrong mileage. After a week or two of running the correct mileage will show. I drove the car about 150 miles after changing the battery and thought this would of been enough time for the computer to figure out the MPG if this was the problem.
2) I caused damage to the Iridium plugs when I gapped them and did not notice it. I used Autolite XP6203 model and gapped them at .044. Autolites do not come pre-gapped I was told. The car is not hesitating and runs smooth. I am thinking this is the problem but not 100% certain.
Is my idea about the computer valid and I should give it some time to recalculate MPG? I am thinking to give it a couple of tanks of gas and see if the car fixes itself
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2009 2.4 Sonata. Replaced the battery. Engine light came on after battery replacement. Engine code P0106 (MAP sensor or vacuum leak). Car drove fine before and after the battery replacement. Engine light after replacing battery?
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Installed new alternator cleaned terminals car started charging one week later battery died changed battery cleaned all grounds going to battery checked all connections coming from battery to alternator car is still not charging what should i look at next?
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2006 GS300 ... Car died while driving at about 25 mph - Car was in Drive (D) when died and wife put into park (P) after she coasted into parking lot. To load onto flatbed had to use manual shift lock release to get to neutral. Battery was completely dead--Optima Red Top.
Changed battery and dash lights came on a system Navigation unit showed system loading and not to turn off power - it loaded and when I tried to start the car it would not start. Put car into neutral to eliminate the Park sensor issue and still would not start. ALL lights and systems are very bright as they should be and I hear a faint hum which almost sounds like a fuel pump staying on but in the engine compartment/dash area---very faint hum.
Tried disconnecting battery a few times and to allow ECU to reset and still would not reset. Prior to this the car was having the VSC issue with the transmission not shifting past 3rd - I know the solenoid packs are probably bad but not sure this would affect the engine start up.
Tried both remotes to make sure it saw key. It acts almost like it is not seeing a safe to start (not in Park) or neutral....
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I have a 2004 jetta gls wagon with a 1.8t. the car ran just fine and had a tune running 16psi strong. I changed the battery in it and now the car wont boost, bogs out and SLAMS hard from gear to gear ( auto 5 speed ). I don't have vag com. I just need to get the car to drive with out it. Even if i get back to factory tune im ok with it.
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2001 Celica, battery dead after seeming to crank more slowly each time it was started during the day (wife was driving). I disconnected the battery to charge/test it, after reconnecting it started immediately but after 1-2 seconds engine dies. RPMs can be coaxed up to 3,000 in that time, but even though it seems to be running fine it shuts completely off, no coughing or sputtering. Won't start at all unless key is turned off and then back on, then it will do the same as described above.
It's giving a P1300 Igniter Circuit Malfunction No. 1 error code. Possible causes listed are:
- Ignition Coil No. 1 harness is open or shorted
- Ignition Coil No. 1 circuit poor electrical connection
- Faulty Ignition Coil No. 1
- Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM)
Seems to me a lot like the last, the ECM.
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I put an O'reileys alternator in my truck today. Drove it most the day and did some plowing with it and it was fine. I just went out to run to the gas station and now the battery light is on. The voltage is still good.
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03 F-250 5.4vStandard Transmission
Thought my battery was no good , so changed it. Didn't work it just kinda bumps the motor but doesn't turn over.
Thought it must be my starter then , bought a $200 starter and changed it , still doing the same thing. It did start after changing the starter but wont now.
Neutral safety switch?
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I have rough idle problem after changing spark plugs, fuel filter and battery. There was no rough idle problem before this work was done. What could be wrong. Once the speed is above 20 mph it seem to run fine but at stops it vibrates and seem like it may stall!
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Recently, I've been having issues with my door locks. When exiting the car, and pressing the door lock on the outside handle, I would here the door lock solenoid fire once, then open, and the door would not lock. Same thing would happen when I used the FOB. The door would not lock. On occasion, I would get the door to lock, and stay locked by using the door lock inside the car when the door was open.
On the occasions when I did get the door locked, I then had issues unlocking. If I approached the drivers door to unlock the door, the car would just keep repeatedly beeping, and would not unlock the drivers door. But, the back door would unlock, so I could reach in, and open the drivers door from the back.
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I have a 2010 Prius with about 51,000 miles on it. About a month ago the front passenger lock actuator began failing and wouldn't lock/unlock with the remote. I had to manually slide the lock shut before I exited the car or it would keep beeping when I pressed the lock button on the remote.
Well, now the driver's side door is doing the same thing. When I touch the front door handle (to unlock the doors) it beeps like 8 times while it tries to unlock all four doors. I have to open the back drivers-side door and manually unlock the front door so I can drive the car.
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