I bought a 2003 Prius from the original owner with 130k miles on it.
The electric motor was fine and would start but the gas motor was blown. I bought a used gas engine from a reputable company, and my mechanic did the swap. He is the best mechanic I've come across but he's clearly stuck.
What to do now?
I replaced the hybrid battery in my 2005 Prius today & when I disconnected the 12v battery the wrench arced & I assume that I blew a fuse. I have looked, but have not found anything. I hope I am missing something obvious.
View 5 RepliesWe have a 1997 f150 with the 4.6 in it originally. The 4.6 was pulled and a 2001 5.4 engine was swapped. I was called to see why it could not run. I did some preliminary tests and suspected the PATS system.
I cannot get the fuel pump to run by jumping the relay and I am assuming all the wiring is proper from the swap.
The 2001 5.4 engine ecu has been transferred over. I run the obd tests and get a bunch of codes but none point to the pats system. The theft light does not prove out or does not flash. I can get it to turn on via my obd scan tool. I have an elm tool.
I do know the 1997 cluster was not changed. The ignition from the 2001 was swapped and have only 1 matching key with it.
When I jumped the fuel pump relay, I produced the code p0232 which tells me the computer saw current in the pump circuit when the PCM has it disabled. Should a swap of this kind also include the pats components ? I also cannot get the fuel pump to run by jumping the relay.
I have the codes :
P01703
P0232
P01747
P0750
P0755
p1451
P1409
P1633
Just bought a 2010 Prius II. The engine was overheated. Question, is there enough clearance to remove the engine alone, or will I need to drop the engine and transmission as an assembly? Looks Ike there is room. Mechanic at the dealer is telling me there isn't.
View 11 RepliesI have an 06 Prius and I just swapped the transmission out. I got the car to start while it was still on jack stands but after I lowered the car onto the floor I went to start it and it would not start. I am wondering if my battery could be the issue. I am new to prius so I am not sure how this is supposed to work. When I initially put the service plug back in and started the car the display was showing about half bars. When the car would not start I am only showing one bar on the battery display...I assume this is showing me the HV battery charge. So I went into service mode to check the 12volt battery, while in acc the car shows 11.7Volts, then when I switched the headlights on it dropped down to 10.8 volts. Is the 12 volt battery bad and stopping the car from starting? Can I put my jump box on the 12 volt battery and try to start the car?
View 19 RepliesIm having some issues after swapping the engine on my 05. The swap went well and i hooked everything back up the way it was. I have triple checked every connection. If I am missing one then it is hidden extremely well.
I reconnected the HV and Aux batteries but the car will not go into ready mode. All the warning lights come on and the screen shows problem!
The inverter coolant pump is running, my basic obd2 scanner shows no codes.
I have a base 2006 with CD only. I bought a OEM mid-line non-jbl mp3 prius radio (manufactured 2005) from junkyard and put it in. Initially there was the red triangle with excalamation and mfd dispalayed "red car with "problem" in it (since I disconnected park button). That issue fixed itself after couple of restarts.
View 1 RepliesMy car has been leaking coolant as soon as you put it in from it looks like the transmission area. Today I filled the car with water and drove it on the interstate to work. The car started getting jerky like it was losing power. So I pulled over and when I did the car shut off. There was excessive smoke under the hood and after removing the oil cap, smoke coming from there also. Tried restarting and it sounds like it just spins. No start. Looked at the timing belt, it's still intact. Put a wrench on the crank pulley and it's turning. What's wrong? Is it a goner?
View 10 RepliesSwapped engine last night and now the car won't start and gives me the problem of "transmission lock is abnormal, please park car on a flat surface and apply parking brake."
View 5 RepliesI have a 2010 Toyota Camry 2.5L. Suddenly the blower-motor stopped working. I looked at the under-hood fuse panel and noticed a few of the fuses in the fuse bus-bar were blown, however I'm not sure how the bus-bar is removed. Is this most likely my blower-motor problem? If so, how do I replace those fuses?
View 6 RepliesI am looking for info regarding motor swap. I blew the motor in my truck a couple weeks ago (5.4L Triton). She froze solid going down the HWY pulling my boat. I purchased a motor from a wrecking yard with~ 70k miles on it. I decided to do the swap myself and have run into a dilemma. In order to un-mate the trans from the motor the torque converter nuts need to be removed. There is an access port where you access the nuts one at a time. You must roll the engine over to bring each nut into view. This is where I am stuck. The motor is seized solid and will not turn over by hand even with a socket and a cheater bar on the main crank pulley. Do I need to remove the oil pan and/or the heads to figure out how it's stuck (pretty sure it ate a valve)?
View 1 RepliesI have just bought a 2000 passat 1.8t. The car had broken timing belt so i was just planning to replace the timing belt but there is another issue. When i was disassembling the radiator support I took off the intercooler but there was a lot of motor oil so I am not quite sure what is the problem. And do have to rebuild the engine or replace the cylinder head because of the broken timing timing belt. The belt was actually not broken only belt teeth are gone so I think that piston and valves might crashed.
View 10 RepliesI need to replace the motor mounts on my truck. Is there any special tools or tricks I will need before I get half way into it and find myself in a bind? Oh yeah it's a 5.4L
View 1 RepliesWhat is the correct way to clock the transfer case so it will line up with the new transfer case shift motor. I have read that you should not clock the transfer case shift motor.
View 8 RepliesI have a 96 Cadillac Deville Sedan. Last year, I had problems with the heat and A/C working intermittently. Then both crapped out. I went the summer without A/C...waiting for winter. Have gone all winter with no heat, which is not a huge problem, since I live in Florida. However, I'm planning on taking this car on a 1600 mile journey to Maine. So on Thursday, my bf installed a new HVAC fan motor. Or, yeah, whatever you call them. It worked and the car produced heat. I had a parade to go to Thursday night, so I drove the car there and it was fine. On my way home, the car was revving, like I was driving a lawn mower. Then, while I was still driving at a low speed, the mph went to 0. During the 10 mile drive home, which included interstate, the mph returned and the car acted normal. Then the mph went to 0 again. The speed sensor failure light came on, along with the check engine light.
I thought maybe while replacing the fan motor, the bf might have unhooked the speed sensor. This makes sense to me. But the bf checks and can't find anything obvious.
Today, when I first start driving the car, it again sounds like a lawnmower. The rmp is into the 3000 and 4000 range, while I am driving (approx) 15 mph. If I step on the gas, the car lurches forward, then returns to lawnmower status. The mph is showing 0. The instant mpg is also remaining at 0. The fuel range is showing numbers, but they are not correct, since there are 14 gals of gas in the car and the range is at like 85 miles and declining. I get around 20 mpg. So that's not an accurate range. After a few miles, the car stops over-revving and sounds normal. On the interstate entrance ramp, the mph started working, and worked for several minutes, then reverted back to 0.
So, to summarize. The check engine light is on all the time. The speed sensor failure light comes on in the beginning. The struggling lawnmower act lasts for the first few miles. Lurching if I step on the gas. Then, it might drive normally. The mph stays at 0. Every once in a while, the mph will start working, then stop again. What could have happened during this fan motor repair to have caused this? Or is this just a huge coincidence?
My independent mechanic just swapped out some PBR Deluxe pads that he put on with new rotors in June with with PBR Deluxe Plus pads. He did this free of charge because the front brakes were making a loud metallic clunk sound on the first brake application when backing up (weird, no?), and they were dusting like crazy. Back in the summer I followed the bedding-in procedure fellow Vortexers recommended. Aside from the clunk, the brakes were silent, though extremely dusty.
Well, after a couple of drives with the Deluxe Plus pads, I can say that they perform very well, just like the Deluxe pads before them. It's too early to tell if the dust issue is better, but the metallic clunk is still there, though far quieter than before (even with the windows open); I'd say its more of little click now.
But here's what I really don't like. I took the car out tonight to bed the brakes, doing 5 or 6 60-to-30 mph runs, followed by 5 minutes of 40-50 mph cruising with little braking and no real dead stops. All was good until I went to get gas afterward: as I slowed to <10 mph, I heard some squeaking from the fronts. Not hugely loud, but enough for me to be upset about.
Did I do something wrong? They were fine until the bedding-in run. Maybe the temperature (20s) played a role? I didn't think I went too nuts on them. I'm hoping I don't hear the squeak tomorrow. What about the persistent click I hear when braking for the first time in reverse? Could this be related the excessive dust with the PBR Deluxes?
A friend of my brother swapped an auto trans OUT of his 98 passat (2.8 L) WITH a trans code EZZ and now its stuck in 3rd and in safe mode... What could be the cause??
View 2 RepliesThis happened on the way to church Sunday morning. Got in cranked up and headed out. Car would not accelerate beyond 40mph and would not shift gears. Drove like this for a few miles and as some others have stated......there sounded like an explosion and then whistling and spewing of air. I pulled over think it was a a radiator or hose issue. Didn't know anything about an EGR valve.....NOT a mechanic. Drove the car back home. Like others have stated......after it blew.....then the car drove just fine. Daughters boyfriend identified the problem.
Bought a new valve and installed. Got out on the highway and had exactly the same problem .......would not accelerate beyond 40 or change gears. Then within 3 miles the EGR valve blew again and then the car drove fine. Needless to say I will NOT be putting on another valve....as that's not my core problem.I was wondering if any of the other Escape owners had determined the cause of the blown valves? At this point, I'm just hoping I can last long enough to buy another car. But I would like to know what type of issue I'm dealing with.
So I swapped out the PCV valve while changing the oil in my '02 civic and upon driving I noticed a faint rattling/buzzing sound. I only notice it at idle, whether because it goes away when I accelerate or because engine noise drowns it out. I grabbed my stethoscope and to my dismay found it to be the PCV. It's not loud, but loud enough that I noticed it was out of the ordinary.
Now, I've read conflicting things all over the internet. Some people saying its perfectly normal operation, while others saying its a sign of a defective product. The old PCV was pretty gnarly, but did just barely passed the shake test.
I got an 03 extended cab with triton 5.4 to replace my 1995 f150. no plates yet, just parked in drive. moved it around a few times, ran fine. tonight it wouldn't start. dark, cold, impatient etc... couldn't get air filter apart, drilled hole in plastic, added ether and blew it all into the neighbors yard. sounded like a muzzle loader. nothing usable on it. blew filter holder apart and everything inline. my question, do i replace with stock or get one of these breather kits i read about??? Western motor sports, etc....... Any "digs" well, i deserve them. keep in mind i don't need extra horsepower. I'm an HVAC guy and this is my work truck. i care about mileage.
View 14 RepliesPicked up another gti vr6 5 speed for my girlfriend. It needed the control arm bushings replaced. Finished up and went to drive the car. Now when in gear and let of the clutch. Makes a terrible sound and won't move. But speedo goes up .
View 3 Replies