Prius (Gen 1) :: 2003 - Code P3190 And P3130
May 7, 2016
I'm trying to be detailed as possible.
View 12 RepliesI'm trying to be detailed as possible.
View 12 RepliesOn my way home in stop and go traffic the whole dash lit up with about 4 miles to go. Car was running as normal so I immediately thought inverter pump so got home and checked for circulation and there was good circulation. Pulled code with my obdII scanner and code P3130 came up. Cleared codes to restart and check circulation of fluid to verify and there was NO CIRCULATION. So, went and ordered the Toyota part #G9020-47022. Is there something else I should check before just changing the pump like a relay or electrical? Is there another place to get the coolant as the dealer has it at $32 gallon which is crazy. Then, if I do end up changing out the pump which I am almost sure I will have to which is a good way to burp the system as I have read this can be an issue. Does all the fluid (parts guy says two gallons) need to be changed out or just what spills out.
View 13 Replies2002 Prius with 94K gave me today P3130, after I tested the Inverter Water Pump I found out that it bad but until I go to the dealer in order to buy the part $147 he was closed. the question is can I drive with the car like this bac home (65 miles) and if I turn on the A/C the Engine will work all the time right? And also after replacing the Inverter Water Pump how can i tell if the problem solved?
View 14 RepliesMy girlfriend has a 2004 Prius with the nav kit and has been having some rather odd issues as of late, of which seemed to have started after she hit an animal. The gas engine in her car seems to be turning on right away when she turns the car on. The engine also sounds quite loud, almost as if it is revving. Her gas mileage has also dropped considerably, from 45-ish down to around 33 mpg. Also, upon stopping, the mileage gauge on her nav screen doesn't immediately go to 99. Instead it sits around in the 40s for a while before jumping up to 99.
Now, she mentioned this to the tech at the dealer when she finally went to get the recall done on her water pump, but the guy said it drove fine and threw no codes. She then took it to another shop who said it threw a P3190 code, but he had never seen this issue and wouldn't know how to fix it.
The only thing I could find while searching around (mainly on this forum) was that it could be a problem with the electric throttle body. The throttle body seems to make sense to me, but she isn't totally convinced. She also has a 200+ mile trip coming up for the holiday season and it would be nice to fix the issue before that.
I have a 2001 Toyota Prius. The inverter cooling pump was dead and I had the P3130 fault code. I replaced the pump and the refilled the fluid. After more than 4 or 5 times bleeding the system, now the pump sounds funny. It sounds like a water fall and look like it has too much air!!!! I can’t see any turbulence in the reservoir tank either.
There are 2 bleeding valves on the front side of the Inverter. Which one should be used to for bleeding the system? Both?
Does the system have any thermostat that could cause problem? Does it use the same radiator as the main one? What could cause having NO turbulence? I think the new pump will be dead too if it can’t make the turbulence.
I have found myself in a spot of bother with my 2007 Prius... I am getting am Immediate P3190 error, & engine only runs (OR cranks) for 10 secs before stalling with the error...
View 19 RepliesToyota ticked me off. I had them repair the ac on my Prius and during this time I read bleeding the inverter coolant can be a pain. They said they would flush and fill the inverter coolant for me. Over the weekend I get a P3130 error saying inverter overtemp. I did not have "turbulance" in the reservoir when I first bought this car and didn't know much at the time. Now, with getting the code I looked into this deeper. I told Toyota that this repair had been skipped and they denied it. Ends up the fluid was lower than it should and the tech said the pump wasn't working. "How did you bleed the system then". They gave me 2 gallons of coolant and I told them I will repair this myself now.
View 7 RepliesI've been having issues with my beloved 2003 with a little over 130k with warning lights going on and off. I went to O'Reilly's they gave me the codes P3130 and P0303. One of codes states "misfiring on all cylinders," they didn't have a description for the other one.
Dealership won't tell me anything about what the codes mean. The warning lights are an exclamation point inside a triangle, check engine, and what looks like a thermometer in red.
Just got the oil changed a little over a week ago, dealership said they didn't notice any problems. Warning lights came back on last Thursday and just disappeared about an hour ago.
My sister was driving her 01 Prius and the engine shut off and all the dash lights came on. I was worried it was the hybrid battery since it is still original. I started the car and it started fine, drove home without any issues. Went to the store, everything seems normal. Read the codes and found P0121 and P3190, I just have a basic reader so I don't have any sub-codes or anything like that.
View 8 RepliesSomething in my Gen II 2006 Prius is causing a type of overheating condition in the hybrid system. The fault/error codes coming up are P3190 and P3191. If I turn the car off for 30 minutes and restart it, it runs fine for a period of time (but usually not more than a week).
I first noticed the problem a couple of months ago during my 45 mile (mostly highway) commute. While driving on the highway, I noticed that the Prius wouldn't accelerate when I stepped on the gas pedal. A couple of minutes later, my dash warning lights come on and the car started slowing down (no response to the gas pedal at this point). For a minute or so, I was able to change gears (reverse or drive) and move a little in either direction but the transmission stops responding altogether very quickly.
Dash lights that light up
Hybrid system error symbol lit up and I noticed that the hybrid battery charge level was at one purple bar.
The first time it happened, I had my car towed to the nearest Toyota dealership. The flatbed tow truck driver (to my surprise) was able to start the Prius and back it into a spot at the dealership. Some of the dash lights were no longer lit.
The dealer couldn't find anything wrong with the car except for the fact that my water pump was leaking. They replaced the water pump, cleared the error codes and drove the car around for about 45 minutes but couldn't reproduce the problem. I drove my car home.
note: this dealership replaced my hybrid battery and 'computer' (I'm sure it has a specific part name - I don't have the info) right before my warranty ran out over a year ago. I didn't have any warning lights lit up on the dash at the time but I told the master mechanic working on my car that it didn't have much power going to the wheels when I put it in reverse (I couldn't back into my driveway). After the hybrid battery and computer were replaced, I had no issues with backing into my driveway.
The same issue happened a week later. I turned the car off for 20-30 minutes, started the car and noticed that the bulk of the dash warning lights turned off so I drove it home. I took it to my local mechanic the following day. He cleaned the intake manifold, changed the spark plugs, cleared the P3190 and P3191 codes indicating that they were generic codes indicating a misfire and said that it was now running fine.
A week later the same thing happened. I did some research and brought the car back to my local mechanic and asked him to change the transmission fluid & to use the Toyota ATF WS fluid. He changed the transmission fluid (and noted that it was dirty), cleared the codes and I brought the car home. I unfortunately didn't get a sample.
We had a power failure that night so I plugged my pond aerator into the cigarette lighter to keep my koi alive and less than 2 hours later I came out to find the pondmaster ap-20 (20 watt) air pump (blows bubbles through 1/2" tubing) wasn't running and my car had shut off with the dash warning lights illuminated. I have run this little aerator for 4 days on a single tank of gas without issues in the past.
The red triangle light and the car with the ! Light went off and these are the codes the local shop has found:
- P0121
- P3190
- P3191
- C1259
- C1213
- P3101
The shop I went to in Little Rock would not touch it. Need to put these together and diagnose where to start?
I bought an 03 with 58K miles on it. shortly after I bought it the check main battery light came on, the local Toyota dealer told me I needed a new main battery.
I had a P3000 code, a high voltage leak. It turned out to be corroded buss bars and cables, with 2 leaking cells, $1,450.00 latter the onboard computer said the problem was fixed and my display read normally for about 1,500 miles before I started getting that code and the check main battery light again.
I took it back to the shop tat did the work and they ran the diagnostic's on it again, checking the main power cables that led from the main battery under the car to the Toyota Hybrid system, inverter? under the hood they checked all of the high voltage connections, they all checked out fine. The shop then took several days to do an online search for possible causes.
This led to the CV trans axle with its electric motors and generators as the possible culprit. The car is running and driving fine, so I did the 60,000 mile transmission oil change, suggested by my mechanic ( apparently the fluid becomes conductive with age) the check battery light will go off if I remove the secondary battery terminal for a minute or so and stayed off for 2 tanks of gas after the fluid change but it did come back on.
I can reset the computer easily enough and it will stay off for 3 to 400 miles but I'm looking to get the damn light to stay off. I'm going to change the trans fluid again. Changing drive motor or generator?, can this be done in the car? or at all? It may be that if this is the problem it may end up making sense to just put in a new CV transaxle.
have a 07 prius with 113k miles. It recently displayed the red triangle with code p0aa6 sub code 612.
I took apart the battery and nothing looked corroded, then on the inside of the bus bar i found a small amount of corrosion. After testing the cells i found 2 modules that were leaking voltage.
Since I had everything open I figured I might as well test to see if any cells were on there way out. The static voltages were pretty close around 7.8v, there were a couple modules that were .3v apart that I'm doing more testing on. I load tested each module with 1a, is 1 amp enough for a load test? I have a 100a load tester but figured that was way too much. They were all ok under load test, dropping about .6v and returning to original voltage within a few minutes.
Then I decided to check capacity on the bad cells, they were about 500mah, got to 1000mah after 1 discharge/charge cycle. I tested the capacity on a cell I thought was good and so far it discharged about 1050mah until it reached 6v, this was from 7.77v. I'm giving it some time to rest to see if it goes back up a bit and then I'll discharge some more till it stays at 6v. Even if I get a little bit more in it will be way under the 6500mah it should have or even the 3500mah that I've read is acceptable.
Since all of the modules have parameters that are pretty close I'm thinking the capacity will be pretty close as well.
I have a 03 F150 with a bi-fuel 5.4 engine an it has 195000 miles. I have had trouble for some time now with misfires. I bought the truck in october of 2011 with 125000 miles and replaced all the coils and spark plugs because it was misfiring badly will running on CNG. It was fine on gasoline and never had any codes. After I replaced the plugs and coils it ran fine on CNG and gasoline.
This summer 2013 it began missing badly at highway speeds only when running on CNG. If I accelerated the miss would go away until I was light on the throttle again.I checked the misfire count and found the bad cylinder and replaced a coil. Then a day later same thing on another cylinder. I swapped a coil from another cylinder and problem went away for a day. Eventually I chased the misfire around all the cylinders on the engine until I had ended up either replacing a spark plug or swapping a coil on all the cylinders. And I still had a misfire. It seemed to be worse on days with temperatures above 90 degrees. Eventually I got it to stop misfiring.
So now 5 months later I am back again with a misfire. This time it is misfiring on both gasoline and CNG and under any throttle conditions, except coasting. I have no codes. And the misfire monitor is sending me around the engine again. I have replaced a spark plug in two cylinders and swapped 4 coils.
I'm ready to buy all new coils, but I want to be sure that it is not a waste of money since the old ones only have 70000 miles on them.
Two days ago I had the misfire monitor saying #4 in the evening and the next day without me having done any work on it it was saying #6. Later that same day it said #7 and I still hadn't done anything other than drive the truck.
I checked the connections at the firewall on the drivers side with the three large plugs that are held in with a 10mm bolt, they looked fine, no corrosion or burnt pins. I checked the connection at the ACFM which also looks good. I will check the connection at the PCM in the next day or so.
Some other problems that may be contributing:
1. I occasionally get a U1262 code (scp fault)
2. Sometimes when I check the misfire monitor it only shows 7 cylinders, sometime 9 cylinders. I am using an Innova 3160 scanner.
3. I have either a leaking valve cover gasket or leaking head gasket, because I have oil dripping from the rear bottom corner of the passenger side cylinder head right above the exhaust pipe.
My friends sisters 2003 V6 is getting a po118 code. And how do I fix it?
View 1 RepliesCar didn't start and so checked compression. 0 on all cyl. it took me a long time all winter but i replaced the gears and chains. compression check is now 175 on all cylinders. car won't start. scanned codes. P0107. cleared code and replaced map sensor. code returned? fuel pressure 45psi. tested for opens to ckp ok. ohm resistance .738 which is suppose to between .500 and .900 scanner doesn't show engine is cranking even when it is cranking fine. no theft light on.
The engine had started once but had run rough. The plugs where new but removed them and gap was not correct gaped to 42 thousandths. Assembled cleaning all ignition components. Still will not start. Checked power and grounds to pcm,good. Checked all fuses in engine compartment and inside car.
I got an error code today and I was going to ask you who know . What is this? What should I change to solve the problem and where in the engine is the error ? Is it dangerous to drive with this error?
My car is a Golf IV R32 - 2003.
We have a 2003 Mazda Protege5 and when you put it in gear the code P0758 (shift solenoid B electric) pops up. The circuit has been diagnosed everywhere, solenoids replaced, and even replaced the computer. We cannot get rid of this code, which causes the car to drive in limp mode. We've spoken to so many people with Mazdas and can't seem to come up with a solution.
View 5 Repliescheck engine light came on about 2 months ago had my mechanic pull the code po175 (bank 2 rich) because it was just bank 2 i decided to go after the 02 sensors. replaced them 2 weeks ago and had the code cleared. was fine until this past Sunday. shut the truck off to get gas and when restarted the light was on again. had the code pulled today and its po175 again. 1997 5.4 127xxx mi. stock except for a k&n filter and flo master muffler. i did a search but the 3 posts that popped up dealt with both banks being rich.
View 2 RepliesI have a 03 explorer sport trac. I am getting code p0507. So someone told me it the Mass air flow sensor. so i went to the auto store and pick up mass air flow cleaner so the light went out for 3 day .now it back on again no air leak that i can see. Not saying there is none. Now someone telling me it a egr .
View 8 RepliesHad to put a new tranny in my 1997 F150 XLT Lariat 4x4 5.4 liter engine about 3 weeks ago and now have gotten the check engine light. Took it to autozone and code 1450 was the only code listed. They said it was was a vacuum problem, but when I checked the code at a web site it is listed as a secondary air injector system circuit shot to B+.
My question is which is correct and how to repair?