Prius (Gen 1) :: 2002 - No Engine Coolant In Reserve Bottle
Jan 26, 2014
I recently bought a 2002 prius with 65000 mi. I have been driving it for a few weeks and everything seems to be working good. I noticed there was no engine coolant in the reserve bottle and added a quart to bring it to the full line. The next day I noticed leaking coolant, but it is on the drivers side where I believe only the inverter components are. I really don't know though. The engine coolant level has dropped down. Does the engine coolant flow over on the drivers side? I cant tell exactly where the leak is.
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Doing the 48,000 km service yesterday, and when checking everything noticed the engine coolant overflow bottle was almost empty. MAJOR PROBLEM!
There is no sign of leaking, so I presume it evaporated or it was never filled to the full mark from the factory. Man, that level is hard to check. It's dark down there! I may mark the passenger side end of the overflow bottle. Much easier to see the level there.
Coolant loss, presumably from evaporation? This was after 3 years of operation/48,000 km or 30,000 mi.
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A bit over a week ago, I posted about a major coolant "spew" in my shed.
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I recently had a new engine and radiator installed in my 1993 toyota pickup. I checked the coolant and oil every day since the install, then drove it 250 miles or so without checking the coolant, and found that all the coolant was gone from the reserve tank, and there was a sludge at the bottom. I don't see any leaks, and the thermometer indicator was normal.
I don't understand where the coolant could have gone, given that it's a totally new motor and new radiator, new hoses. I'm worried about the competence of my mechanic, not noticing a dirty coolant reservoir and maybe messing something else up.
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So this car is having overheating problems -- it's a 2001, Subaru outback legacy wagon, 125,000 miles on it, automatic. I was driving it an hour on the highway, pulled off an exit, it overheated and stalled. Got it into a gas station only to find the coolant cap on the reserve had blown off and coolant went everywhere. So i put new coolant and water in and got it to go 20 minutes only to overheat again.
Drove it back home blowing the heater and seemed to somewhat remain at 1/2 to 3/4 mark on the temp gauge. Then i took it to shop-- they said probably an air bubble that worked its way out?! and they basically did nothing. Drove it again an hour this weekend, same thing happened--drove it back with the heater on. Brought it to ANOTHER shop that first off thinks its the timing belt. The person i bought it from had head gaskets, timing belt, water pump and thermostat all replaced. The only thing they were told to do was flush the radiator which they did not do.
SO...what do i do? I'm taking it to yet another place and don't want to be ripped off -- Change the radiator cap? Could it be one of the parts blew again? They were replaced last year. Should i flush the radiator-- what would that do really? Could it be an electrical/fuse problem with the fans?
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My truck has a 6 o powerstroke. I noticed some coolant loss, which I've been monitoring since I had the truck studded 2 years ago. Today I was looking around trying to find a cause of the coolant loss and I noticed some crusty orange residue on a hose that runs under the coolant reservoir. The hose seems to go behind the valve covers along the firewall to the passenger side through a steel line, and then go in a loop back to itself?
I'm guessing it's for the heater core, but I didn't see where it actually goes into the heater core, or anything else for that matter. It is a molded hose that has one of those crimped transitions into the steel line, so I'm not sure if patching it is an option or if I should look at replacing the whole piece. I'm guessing it's going to be expensive. From the fact that it never failed before, I'm thinking it wasn't originally routed with it touching the valve cover and was just something that happened after having the body off during the stud install.
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I have coolant leaking from under my degas bottle. There was a spot on the driveway this morning and upon investigation, I saw a drip hanging from the bottom of the degas. No liquid on top at all. Where this is coming from? Bottom hose?
Also, the boot that connects the tube (right side while looking at front of truck) to the elbow that goes into the intake is leaking oil and making a mess. Whats the best way to fix? Remove boot, clean up, and put back on? Or replace boot? If replace, where can I get that boot?
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Got all the bolts but 1 how do I get this out and what else do I have to take out...
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My degas bottle is building pressure and coolants puking out. This happens after a light drive started months ago it sat at mechanic for 3 months he never touched it just wanted to replace motor so i brought it home. The truck starts and idles and runs fine temp gauge sits at normal. There was white smoke a few times several months back when it started up but went away after warm up but none now. I don't drive it i have a spare vehicle i tried doing exhaust gas test on degas bottle to check head gaskets today with no luck. They gave me the gasser only fluid with tester. No coolant on the ground and I've added the dye to see it with ultraviolet light no leaks around radiator.
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I had to drive my wife to SEATAC this morning. I would normally drive my car (Camry), but my trunk is a mess with muddy tire chains and the back seat is a mess with muddy dog fur, etc.
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Last night on a 400 mile trip the wheelwell plastic fell loose onto the wheel and was destroyed. There was some kind of white bottle that attached to it that got ruined also. What it may have been? The car is 200 miles from home and me or i could be more specific.
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I have a 2002 Mazda 626 with 134,00 miles. About a month ago there was a large coolant leak in the middle part of the engine. My mechanic replaced the coolant by-pass hose from the thermostat housing under exhaust manifold to engine block. A few days ago there was another leak around where the coolant reservoir is. Gauge read hot and had to top off coolant on way to repair shop. Topped off reservoir and next morning most of the coolant had drained out. My mechanic has done a pressure check, drove the car, let it sit and idle for up to an hour and there was no leak or overheating.
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A friend of mine has a 2002 Century with a 3100 engine, 65,000 miles. The car has been well cared for, with all regular maintenance performed on time.
The car is losing coolant, the low coolant sensor comes on every few hundred miles. The local garage has added coolant, replaced the coolant sensor , and flushed the entire system. At this point my friend asked me to have a look.
1) Slimey "milkshake" on oil cap. Cleaned & dried it 4 days ago. 100 miles later, it's all slimey again.
2) Rad cap also has slimey gunk on it.
3) Coolant recovery tank is CRUDDY. The walls are all darkened with what I'd assume is oil residue.
Now, before anyone starts saying this is normal with Dexcool, I'll mention that I have a '98 and an '02 Grand Prix with Dexcool, they have 218,000 and 158,000 miles, respectively. My oil caps are bone dry. My coolant caps have only Dexcool on them. And my coolant recovery tanks are so clean they look new.
In seems to me that there is some kind of internal issue, e.g. intake manifold gasket, where the fluids are mixing. FWIW, I don't see any sign of external coolant leakage. Do the 3100s have any known issues in this area? I suggested my friend have the Buick dealer pressure test it (when it's cold), and go from there.
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The check coolant message comes on my message center on my 2002 Caddy Deville. I have checked this and there is plenty of coolant. Can this be repaired without removing and installing a new coolant overflow tank?
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I read in the owners manual that the engine antifreeze should be an ethylene glycol type. I believe that Prestone makes this type of coolant in a 50/50 mix. Is that correct? Also, what type of coolant does the inverter use? I want to try and stay away from buying it at a dealer. Also, my gen 1 has 117,000 miles and I must admit that I have been slacking with the maintenance. My gas mileage is down to 40/mpg compared to 48-49mpg when I got the car two years back with 40k. I am pretty sure the original auxillary batter is still in it, so I order a new one today. I also plan an changing the transaxle fluid, PCV valve, air filter, and cabin filter. The plugs where changed at 80,000 miles. Where can I order a gasket for the transaxle pan? I intend on dropping it and cleaning it out. Do you think this will get the gas milage back up?
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I just purchased a manual 02 echo coupe with 140k, It has been sitting for over 4 years as it has some type of wiring issue, I replaced the ECM thinking it was that and has the same symptoms. With key "off" the check engine light is on (about half bright) and the blue coolant light (full brightness) Forgot to mention another big problem, When I plug in the scanner there is no communication.
From what the old owner told me, He had a clutch put in it and the battery was installed backwards and it burnt the ECM. I'm thinking he bought the car as is and never got it running.
I read that the power goes through the instrument cluster. I'm going to pick one up from the junkyard tomorrow (off a 2000 manual echo).
Symptoms:
No communication to ECM
Coolant and check engine light stay on when switch is off
No spark at any of the four coils.
Replacement ECU did not fix anything.
I cleaned the three ground points in the engine bay.
I sprayed starting fluid hoping it was a fuel problem.
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Just bought a 2002 Prius for my daughter at an auction and the car has been driving fine the last few days even though the hybrid warning light has been on and off. Found no fault code with OBDII. Found out later from Toyota service history the cause of the hybrid warning light was a leaked hybrid battery. The previous owner disposed the car off at the auction before the problem was fixed.
I was driving today and the coolant high temperature came on and I can't rev/drive. Stopped engine and re-start after a while and coolant high temperature warning light gone. Drove a short distance and coolant high temperature warning light came back on. Used a OBDII and found no fault code. Radiator hose by the radiator cap is cold but hose at the top right side of radiator by the hybrid system is hot. Opened radiator cap and it is full of coolant.
The car has been serviced on 12/26/2012 before it went to the auction. Can air pocket trapped in the radiator cause this coolant high temperature warning light and can't rev/drive problem. Also today is the first time we didn't use the heater. We used the heater to defog the windscreen and heater work.
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2002 ford sport trac.I have been having an ongoing issue that started with the engine cranking but would not turn over until an hour passed. After replacing multiple parts (cam shaft sensor, crankshaft sensor, ignition pack) I am now down to poor fuel economy as the last of the issues (roughly 12 in the city and 15 highway). I was told the issue may be the engine coolant temperature sensor going bad so I decided to replace it. I found this was very difficult due to it being a plug and locking pin design and in a very tight spot in the engine.
I tried to purchase a replacement and the parts store kept trying to insist on selling me a part with threading. I finally found someone that figured out the issue and found the part for the 2001 sport trac had the same plug style with clip that did fit but was shaped a little different on the sensor end which I assume was due to being aftermarket. I noticed that there were two plugs side by side and the one easiest to access was on the left and I was told the one on the right was the sensor that gave the temperature reading to the gauge.
After installing the engine coolant temperature sensor I found the temperature gauge on the dash now will not respond and is sitting below the cold end of the gauge completely off. Is it possible this is because the part was for a 2001? Is the sensor on the left (passenger side) the engine coolant sensor?I would hate to put the old sensor back in just to test if that's the issue due how difficult it was to put that locking pin back on. What to check that could resolve the gauge issue before pulling this sensor back out?
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I have a 2008 for 250 6.4 powerstroke. Issue I am having is occasionally when I shift from drive to reserve it will slam when I shift to reverse. It is an intermittent issue. What causes this and what to do?
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We have a 2010 Prius with ~120k miles and a supposed oil leak; about half a quart for the last 500 miles. Ongoing for some unknown period of time. I haven't seen any oil on the ground for the past week. Furthermore, the engine coolant is very low. The dealer believes the "seepage" is due to head gasket, which would cost $2400 to repair.
This isn't my car (my gen 2 runs great), but it reminds me of my beloved 1996 Subaru which had to be let go because of an expensive head gasket and emissions failure. We expected the Toyota engine to last much longer. So far, the Prius hasn't thrown any check engine lights. Is this unusual? Any signs I can look for that might confirm the head gasket leak or suggest a less expensive diagnosis?
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Changed inverter coolant last weekend. Was a snap. Used bleed screw with vinyl tube back into fill tank to bleed off any excess air. Added just as much as I removed. No issues. Took about 15 minutes total. Engine coolant not going so smoothly. I was only able to get 2.9 qts out. Reservoir is still full. Didn't drain that. Started by putting car in inspection mode. Let engine run until it was 180 degrees (using scan tool to read coolant temp). While engine running, turned on heat to get coolant flowing through heater core.
Turned car off. Opened drain plug behind engine. Got about 2 qts out of that. When that was done, radiator level had dropped too. Next, opened up yellow drain plug on back of radiator on drivers side. Got about 2.9 qts out of that.
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