Prius (Gen 1) :: 2002 - Intermittent Leaking / Hissing When Engine Is Engaged
Mar 27, 2012
My recently acquire 2002 has intermittent leaking/hissing periods when the engine is engaged. I have the sound of air leaking or being moved. I hear the individual stokes of the engine, I don't feel any missing in power, No light comes on. After around 60 to 90 seconds of driving, quicker if I press the accelerator the sound has gone away. I wonder what I can do to check this out, I have not been able to pinpoint the area it comes from other than the engine area.
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Our 04 Prius makes a really scary metallic noise at the top of the engine when it is engaged. All maintenance has been performed within 100 miles of the warning light. We are the original owners and the car has 160k miles. No pulleys are touching their surroundings. Make no mistake, this a LOUD noise that has been growing with time. No warning lights,,,oil level is fine,,,and no metal visible on the dipstick. Sound is originating at the top of the engine and is not a "knock". It is more of a metal on metal type of noise.
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My '06 Prius just started making this noise. the check engine light is NOT on. I haven't really heard this noise before in my recollection. I just got an oil change 3 days ago and when I got the oil change there was no indication from the dealership that there were any issues. The engine only makes this noise when the combustion engine is engaged. I can't see any wobbling on the belt drives or and loose parts in the engine. The spin appears to be coming from the engine block or around the pullys for the belt. My first thought is that it could be dirty gas because I first heard this sound after filling up. I am 300 miles from home and have to drive home today.
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I recently got my oil changed & the auto body shop told me that my coolant is leaking and that I needed to fix it ($800) I took my car to private mechanic and he said I was simply missing a cap, replaced it & that the issue would be resolved. After driving it for a few weeks I can tell there is still a problem, I hear a hissing noise, on the passenger side that appears only while accelerating & after I turn the car off (for about 5 seconds). Also, after I turn off the heat I hear a loud gush of air for a few seconds. The car is slower to accelerate these days.
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I just noticed today while driving to lunch today that at lower speed and tons I can here an intermittent hissing sound. But as I speed up and build boost it goes away. Not sure what could be causing this sound. it sounds like it could be some sort of pressure leak or exhaust leak I have no clue...
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My 02 Windstar has developed an intermittent thumping noise in the engine. A bit of history: She has been sitting for a few months because she was throwing a P303 code that I could not track down. Here in IL, you cannot renew your plates until you pass an emissions check, and you cannot pass the check if a code is stored.
Well, I got a warning ticket for expired plates, and I had my daughter's car as alternate transportation while she is in the Peace Corps, so I parked Mr. Breeze, intending to get to her on the weekend. Except for throwing the code and gas mileage being a bit down, she was running fine when I parked her.
Well, life happened, and I never seemed to be able to put the time aside, but now winter is coming and I don't want to subject her ride to the snow, so I made time and replaced the coil, plugs, and wires. But when I started her up, there is an intermittent thumping noise in the engine compartment.
I have double checked the wires, and I think I have them right. As I understand it, the right bank plug wires go on the coil towers 1,2,3. and the left bank wires go on the towers 6,5,4. Is that right?
I made a short video so you could hear it, but it is too big to upload, so here's a YouTube : [URL] .....
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My dad's car, a 2002 Chevy Caviler, started leaking oil on the top of the engine just the other day and we're not sure what's wrong with it.
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I have an 02 Dodge Caravan 3.3 L Flex . It had initially stalled and wouldn't start. Check engine light was on. Had it towed to a Cert Mech. He said it needed a "Major" tune-up. I let him do this. It included: New Coilpak, plugs, plug wires, cam-sensor, crank sensor. That's what was on 1st invoice.
It started, but was still running very rough. He then recommend a new PCM. After choking on his estimate, and paying the initial invoice, I decided to let someone else have at it. Mech # 2 installed a "Rebuilt" PCM, New Battery, and a PCV Valve.
It runs good now BUT, ...It has this weird idle Misfire. The only time it happens is at a stop light when at idle. And it doesnt do it all the time. This check engine light is not on... At this point, all I want to do is sell it.I have over 1K in repair costs and still can't get rid of this misfire.
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I have an 2002 which I bought new. It's got low millage, just over 92,000. I took it into the dealer for a free state inspection and was told that the water pump is leaking. Given the age I'm not too surprised although I don't know what the reliability is like on that part.
I want to verify myself that the water pump is actually leaking before having it replaced but don't know where it is or what to look for. Googling hasn't been too useful - I get lots of hits about the inverter pump, not the water pump.
I have not seen any signs of leaking on the ground under the car. There was no mention of the water pump leaking when I took it to the dealer at 90,000 for an oil change, with my original service advisor.
Is the water pump something that I can fairly easily inspect? Where do I find it and what do I look for?
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My 02 elantra gls 5 speed clutch has gotten stuck engaged for about the third time now. First time was right after I bought the car i noticed the clutch would slip randomly for no reason. At first i thought the clutch must need replaced, but then other times I couldn't make it slip if i tried by going up steep hills with car full of people and shifting too soon on purpose and punching gas....no slip. So anyways i replaced the slave cylinder, and all was good till one day my wife calls me up stranded and says clutch pedal is rock hard and none of the gears will engage. so i tow the car home and fiddle around and realized the slave cylinder (brand new one) was stuck out. I opened the bleeder and it returned without me having to push on it or anything. i then bled the system thoroughly. So months have gone by and the slave cylinder got stuck out again, and again it was a simple turn of the bleeder valve and it went back and works fine. just curious as to how i can fix this problem permanently since its irritating and seems to be reoccurring. do i need to replace the master cylinder as well or did i buy a bad slave cylinder?
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The car runs great, but ABS brake always engaged at start-up. Heavy vibration. The ABS warning light comes on after a couple of miles and then the brakes work fine. Changed the wheel speed senors, but repairman said it has to be dealer programmed. Dealer wants to replace ABS pump and module. Not way. Is an easy fix? Jaguar 2002 X .....
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my 2002 chevy s-10 started making an air/hissing noise inside the cab. It seems to be coming from around the air conditioner controls (center front). It hisses while running, whether moving or not, does not change when the air conditioner or fan is running or not, but does improve when accelerating quickly. What could this be and would it be an easy fix or a professional job (my husband restores old cars, but doesn't do a lot with the newer ones)?
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2002 Saturn L200 Automatic Shifter. Anyway, I can turn the car on fine. I can push the brake and move the shifter fine. But no matter what gear im in park, reverse, neutral, drive, 3, 2, 1 the car still rolls. Also the indicator lights to the left of the shifter are messed up too. When I am in park position, the indicator lights shows I am in reverse. When in reverse it says neutral etc. What the problem is. If i could move the shifter fine why wont it change gears? and how can i fix the indicator lights?
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I own a 2002 Elantra with 75000 miles.
This just happened recently this winter. After a cold startup I hear a constant hissing noise (for lack of better word) coming from under the hood for about 5 minutes .
This is NOT the kind of sharp noise that you would hear from a loose power steering belt but it is definitely coming from that area (towards the passenger side close to power steering belt/alternator), though I could not pinpoint the exact location.
Everything seems to be working fine and after about 5 minutes it goes away. I am not missing any fluids and don't experience any other symptoms.
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So I have an 02 f350 and I just recharged the ac system today. At first the clutch wouldn't engage, I tried tapping it and nothing. Then when I went to pull it out of the garage I left it in park to close the garage doors and I could hear it locking and unlocking.
I checked the voltage at the plug and am barely getting half a volt but it still doesn't lock up when I apply direct power to it. I didn't mess with the shims because I do not believe that to be the issue.
After I had shut the truck down and started it back up the clutch wouldn't engage at all. Do I just need to run the system or what? Its working just not consistently, I was thinking the oil needed to be recalculated a bit.
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I have a Stock 02 f350 7.3 with 66,000 miles ... I'm sure this has been covered plenty if times, but I notice more so on cold days (-20 to 30). My truck after starting and even letting it warm up for a period of time makes a hissing sound from the passenger side of the cab near the dash/glove box area, Like I said I've only really noticed it on cold days ... It usually occurs between 1200 and 1800 rpm and it's a very touchy noise, for example I only really hear it when I'm cruising at a consistent speed, if I get on the gas a little it goes away till I bring it back to consistent throttle cruising then it comes back, same goes for when I let off the gas it goes away until I give it a steady consistent throttle again ....
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My 2010 Prius has been making an odd noise intermittently while accelerating. I haven't been able to reproduce it for the mechanics (of course). The best description I have for the noise is this. It sounds like the click/rattle sound a car makes when it is stalling. Just sped up. This can happen at any time I accelerate (even at highway speeds) but it usually happens just after I start moving from a stop. When it occurs it feels like there is a drop in engine power and I either have to take my foot off the accelerator, or push down harder and power through.
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I drove a hybrid prius for the second time ever this past Sunday and drove a whole 22 miles on open roads. This is earmarked to be the parts car, but I believe is actually in better shape than the principal car. Regardless, I'm trying to ensure the motor will be suitable for swapping into main car when needed prior to me pulling it out so I'm tinkering/driving it this next week.
The engine has a misfire, and I suspect that is the reason for the flashing orange check engine light. But what I'm not used to is that the light goes off and doesn't stay illuminated. The light comes on and flashes when any significant demand is placed on the engine-- when I nurse the throttle pedal, I can hear the engine running (I think) and there's no miss. But when I give it throttle the engine starts to miss and the CEL starts to flash. When I slow back down, the engine stops missing and the light goes off.
1) How/why the CEL flashes but then turns off?
The only background I have on this car (2008 at 225K miles) is it was taken out of service with the following writeup:
P0300 Random misfire, 0301 Misfire #1, Po302 Misfire #2 and P0101 Mass Air Flow Stored in ECM. Intermittently car only runs on 2 cyls. Suspect problem with intake due to the fact there is a recall for newer vehicles with the same condition. #1 spark plug continually getting wet with oil. Possible valve guides or ring issue allowing oil in to combustion chamber. To correct engine replacement or rebuild will be necessary.
2) What is this maf recall and might that issue apply to this 2008?
Truthfully, I only need the car to function for ~ 400 miles on a racetrack. I've been reading about the pcv valve replacement and MAF sensor cleaning. I'm considering venting the pcv line into a catch can or into the exhaust stream (to reintroduce a vacuum to the crankcase) and plugging the opening in the throttle body so there's no chance the throttle body is sucking in crankcase oil that's fouling the plugs.
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Our 2008 with 110,000 mi is intermittently displaying CEL. First appeared about 3 wks ago. I took gas cap off and then put it back on and let car sit overnight. Next day and for 10 days no CEL. Then one mornng, at first start, CEL reappeared. Repeated gas cap process that night. CEL disappeared for 6 days. Then CEL came on in middle of day after car had been started and stopped 3 times. Repeated gas cap process that evening with no success. Did the gas cap thing one more time, last night, and today the CEL is off. First time CEL came on was right after a fill-up. Subsequent CEL's have had no relationship to refueling. Car has been nearly flawless for 68 months. Engine coolant pump changed @ 75k. Aux batt changed 24 mo ago.
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I have a 2008 Prius. It has been giving me an engine light intermittently while I am driving. My mechanic could not get an error code to show. It mostly happens while braking or while driving a right hand curve on roads at speed. What might be happening?
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Our 2006 Prius (175,000 miles) has recently suffered intermittent periods of diminished ICE power. For instance, for about 1 hour recently driving a hilly section of I-81 through eastern TN, the car was struggling to maintain 68 mph and the HV battery stayed mostly drained at 1-3 bars. Gas mileage was falling, but no misfire. After stopping at a rest area, it was fine. No OBD codes and ICE seems OK otherwise. Experienced a similar reduction in ICE power a few days later. Dealer has no clue. Similar experience I've had with another car was when it's catalytic converter became plugged, but that was not intermittent.
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