Prius (Gen 1) :: 2002 - High Coolant Temperature Warning Light On And Can't Rev / Drive
Jan 31, 2013
Just bought a 2002 Prius for my daughter at an auction and the car has been driving fine the last few days even though the hybrid warning light has been on and off. Found no fault code with OBDII. Found out later from Toyota service history the cause of the hybrid warning light was a leaked hybrid battery. The previous owner disposed the car off at the auction before the problem was fixed.
I was driving today and the coolant high temperature came on and I can't rev/drive. Stopped engine and re-start after a while and coolant high temperature warning light gone. Drove a short distance and coolant high temperature warning light came back on. Used a OBDII and found no fault code. Radiator hose by the radiator cap is cold but hose at the top right side of radiator by the hybrid system is hot. Opened radiator cap and it is full of coolant.
The car has been serviced on 12/26/2012 before it went to the auction. Can air pocket trapped in the radiator cause this coolant high temperature warning light and can't rev/drive problem. Also today is the first time we didn't use the heater. We used the heater to defog the windscreen and heater work.
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I was driving my 2007 Prius on the freeway this morning after picking it up from my mechanic and the high coolant temperature warning light came on for ~4-5 seconds but then disappeared. I was able to safely drive it another 5 miles to work and park. My mechanic changed the engine and transaxle fluids in my car (along with pcv valve and serpentine belt replacement, engine oil and filter change) just before, so we think this could have been due to an air pocket in the coolant system. I will need to check the coolant level once the engine has cooled down and refill if necessary. I plan on driving it around locally before going on the freeway in case the warning comes on again.
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I was driving my fiance to work this morning in my 2003 VW Beetle when the high temperature warning light came on and beeped. A little bit later the oil pressure light came on as well, but only for about 30 seconds and then shut off. We had been driving for about 15 minutes and were on the highway when this happened. There was no steam coming from the engine. We were right by where we needed to be so I pulled off the highway and into the office complex which was right off the highway and checked the coolant and oil levels. I just had the oil changed maybe two weeks ago and the oil level is fine. The coolant level looks perfectly fine as well.
I let the car sit for a while and then drove it back the two miles to get home. A few minutes after starting to drive the high temperature light came on again. Still no steam or anything but there was a slight burning smell after I stopped and went up to the front of the car. I'm not driving it until I get it fixed, whatever it is, but I don't really have much money to do anything until next week. What the problem might be? I've only had the car for about five months or so and it has just over 100 k miles. I don't think there is any kind of leak, because before I got my oil changed two weeks ago I got it changed somewhere else and they didn't tighten the oil filter enough and it was leaking oil.
So I took it to another place to get another oil change so they could fix the problem. I told them about the leak and they said they would check to make sure that it wasn't something else that was leaking and they didn't find any problems other than the oil filter. I have never had any issues with the car overheating either. And I don't know if it's just me being paranoid, but while I was checking the car out after I got home and it had been sitting for a few hours, I turned the engine on for a second and it seemed to be making a bit more noise than normal. Not really anything out of the ordinary, just regular engine noises, only louder.
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I have a leak somewhere in my car. There are no spots left from my parking stall, or any visible wet spots under the hood, but my car continuously looses fluid somewhere. It disappears fast enough that in a 10 minute drive it can go from full to the coolant light and alarm going off on the dash.
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2005 Prius...113k miles...master warning light & a coolant temperature briefly light up several times while commuting. The inverter coolant tank stays full, but the motor coolant is empty every day after a 30 mile commute. I fill it up & 30 miles later it is empty. There are no puddles or evidence of a leak while parked in the garage.
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Since 2-3 weeks ago indicators show about 105 C degree of oil temp and the same 105 C grade on colant temperature gauge. Isn't it too high? I do not remember values indicated month ago but I suppose were lower (about 90 C Degrees). When I stop on light it comes down to about 100 and little below, but running on 140km/h on motorway - 105 C. On uphill I observed even 115 C degree on oil and coolant. It is too high in my opinion. Could it be cause by sharp winter (-20 to -10 C degree) in Europe? I'm not sure indications will go to normal (~90 C) on spring and summer! My engine is V8...
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I was driving and noticed that my temperature gauge went close to the warning zone so I blasted the heat and it went back down. When the car cooled I popped the hood and noticed that the coolant reservoir was pretty close to full but I couldn't see any coolant in the radiator. I filled the radiator with water for now but it looks like it gone again. I cannot spot any actual cracks or leaks on the hoses but I did spot a puddle of coolant in the groves on top of the transmission. The closest hose I can spot next to the puddle is the lower radiator hose but I really do not know too much about cars. I also noticed a hissing sound today coming from the radiator cap, which I am going to replace. Where the leak could be which is causing the puddle on top of the tranny?
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I went to my local Autozone today to have a code read and get the freeze frame data. I got a code P0118, Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input. I called the dealer but they are out of stock on the sensor. Would it be a problem to use an after market sensor? I'm just concerned about the quality and accuracy of the sensor.
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Engine light is one for about a month and finally got an ODB II.
Today it reads the error code [b]P0118 which is [b]Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input
The coolant sensor reads 45 C when the key is on "on" position at about 2:30 pm this afternoon and I start the engine about 2 mins the temp jumps to 68 C, are these some logical number?
Does it mean the bad temperature sensor and I need to replace it?
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I have a 2006 Prius with 176k miles on it. I drive it about 65 miles each way to work every day. If I really baby the throttle, no warning lights ever come on, and the heat will take about 45 minutes to kick in. If I use the gas a little more aggressively, the heat will start working after about 30 minutes when I get on the freeway and speed up, BUT the high temperature warning light will intermittently come on. First, the red triangle Warning light will come on, followed by "PROBLEM" on the display followed by a red temperature indicator.
Typically it flickers off after just a few seconds, but sometimes the temp light stays on for longer, maybe 30 seconds or a minute before it shuts off. Then it continues to go on and off every few minutes for as long as I'm on the freeway. It doesn't seem to be directly related to when I hit the gas. I have checked the coolant level and it looks fine.
I bought the car back around 2010 when it had just received it's 100k mile maintenance and they had also just replaced the water pump. I haven't looked at the OBD-II codes, if there are any. I have never replaced the 12v battery. The lights are pretty annoying/alarming and I'm not sure if it's "normal" for the heat to take 30-45 minutes to come on. Maybe the 12v battery or the inverter pump need to be replaced?
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My 2002 Prius had 180,000 miles on it when the 'triangle with ! in middle' came on along with 'PS' and 'check engine'. Car was drivable home. Disconnected battery and all went away. Happened again about 300 miles later. Car was drivable. Again disconnect and reconnect battery. Good for a month around town. Seemed ok to go on vacation. First leg was a 200 mile drive and at about 150 the car died on the freeway and had to pull over. Again disconnect and reconnect battery. Drove for another 10 miles and died again. Again diss/recon battery. Got to destination disconnected battery and car sat overnight. Continued on trip for 700 miles and lost power again. Diss/recon and found hotel where disconnected battery overnight.
Next day went 500 miles on to 2nd destination. Car ran fine. Heading back home drove 700 miles heading back with no problems. Next day made it 60 miles and car died again, it was 105 degF. Diss/recon and made it 10 miles where alarms came on but car didn't die. Made it to gas station where diss/recon and continued on. In remote area so no dealer/mechanic around. Made it another 100 miles with 5 diss/recon in between with just alarms coming on until the 12 volt battery finally went dead. Had car towed home and put on charger in drive way.
Car has run fine since around town. Have not been able to recreate codes to take it to the dealer without fearing a long drive will kill it. Most of my long drives are through the desert. Waiting for codes to come on near home.
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2002 ford sport trac.I have been having an ongoing issue that started with the engine cranking but would not turn over until an hour passed. After replacing multiple parts (cam shaft sensor, crankshaft sensor, ignition pack) I am now down to poor fuel economy as the last of the issues (roughly 12 in the city and 15 highway). I was told the issue may be the engine coolant temperature sensor going bad so I decided to replace it. I found this was very difficult due to it being a plug and locking pin design and in a very tight spot in the engine.
I tried to purchase a replacement and the parts store kept trying to insist on selling me a part with threading. I finally found someone that figured out the issue and found the part for the 2001 sport trac had the same plug style with clip that did fit but was shaped a little different on the sensor end which I assume was due to being aftermarket. I noticed that there were two plugs side by side and the one easiest to access was on the left and I was told the one on the right was the sensor that gave the temperature reading to the gauge.
After installing the engine coolant temperature sensor I found the temperature gauge on the dash now will not respond and is sitting below the cold end of the gauge completely off. Is it possible this is because the part was for a 2001? Is the sensor on the left (passenger side) the engine coolant sensor?I would hate to put the old sensor back in just to test if that's the issue due how difficult it was to put that locking pin back on. What to check that could resolve the gauge issue before pulling this sensor back out?
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One day, I was on the highway and my Pontiac's speed started dropping. I looked at the temperature gauge, and the temperature was really high. I flushed the coolant system, and changed the gasket. Also the mechanic said that the oil might be leaking after they changed the oil. I paid like $700 for something that has nothing to do with the problem (I paid for a spark plug, ignition wires, fuel filter, and an oxygen sensor). After they changed the oil, oil started leaking all over my driveway, which didn't happen before. It also looked like coolant was leaking out. None of this happened before I got my oil changed with these guys.
After I changed the gasket, the car was running smoothly. But today, the same thing happened again, and I don't know if it's the thermostat, or water pump, or oil leaking, or coolant. The mechanic always suggests to fix something that doesn't have to do with the problem. I don't have much money on hand, so I need to only fix what has to do with the temperature rising, and I need my car to run.
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I have a 2002 Prius.
The other day out of nowhere the warning light came on 2 second later the GPS screen flicker and the car turned off on me. I waiting about 5 minutes and the car started up. Was told could be the main 12v battery but want more input on this. The warning light turn off on its own the next day.
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I was driving to work yesterday and all of a sudden the "Hybrid System Warning Light" just came on the screen. I didn't notice anything different and drove it the same way. However, when I checked the energy monitor screen, the battery was low on charge. It came back to normal in about 5 minutes, but the light is still lit up.
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OK Wife has been coming home and the car smells like coolant. The tiny hose from the rad cap to the reservoir isn't pressurized and popping the res cap does not release pressure. Do they are supposed to pressurized?
The coolant level is in the exact middle of high and low just after a 25 minute highway drive. I cant see any puddles or leaks anywhere on the tray; but I have pulled the tray anyway to see if leaks show up on my floor. Temp gauge never wavers at all from what she tells me.
This is a bit perplexing. Maybe a bad rad cap?
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Last night I went to drive my car and my coolant light went on. I checked the overflow and it was very low. There was barely any left in the overflow. I thought this was strange because I had just checked the coolant a couple days ago. The coolant that was in my car was an orange color (after searching I realized that I think this is g12 which I was unfamiliar with). Before searching I added Prestone 50/50 pre diluted green coolant. The bottle said it was mixable with any type of coolant color or kind. After reading more threads I'm seeing that I think the g12 just contracted with the cold weather and I should of just left everything. I have barely driven the car since adding the prestone. Am I doing harm mixing in the prestone? If so, How can I fix this?
On another note, With the cold weather my temp gauge seems to be acting a little funny. Once the car is up to operating temperature the gauge will then drop around 40-50 degrees. It will then stay like this while im driving, but then will go back to normal once the car is stopped and running.
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I was on my way home (a 50 mile trip on very rural roads) when my hybrid warning light came on. The car seemed to be operating fine, so I continued on. About 20 miles from home, the computer display lights flashed on and off and the car died. After coasting to a stop, I let it sit for a couple of minutes and turned it back on, and continued on. Warning light was still on. Probably ran about 7 miles or so and died again. This same scenario happened a couple more times, but I did manage to get home.
My Prius is a 2002 with a little under 150000 miles on it, and it has never given me any problems since I bought it at 70,000 miles four years ago. I will be calling the Toyota dealer tomorrow, but I wanted to ask whether or not this sounds like a possible battery pack failure.
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As a Prius driver, I have driven my 2012 Prius more than 110,000 miles. I love the car and have a suggestion on improvement - Create new software to allow the driver to monitor engine coolant temperature and RPM from either the dash display or touch screen display.
I like knowing if my car engine is up to temperature before punching it on the freeway ramp or about to overheat before an idiot light goes on.
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I have replaced radiator and thermostat, awhile back.. I checked and there is antifreeze in the radiator and the reservoir. I don't drive it unless i really have to. and not to far,lots more work to do on it. But the coolant light started blinking the other day. Temperature gauge inside is ok. What could this be? what should I do? Still haven't got the blower working, heater / ac / defrost.
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It has been documented that the computer will let the ICE coolant cool to a lower temperature before mandating it to fire up again to maintain that lower limit.
Why isn't this done in other modes? Is this compromising anything when it comes to emission or engine protection? Since full power is available in ECO mode, one can force the ICE to drive with full output, even when it is a little cold.
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