Prius (Gen 1) :: 2002 Car Died When Accelerated From Stopped Position
May 11, 2014
I have a 2002 Prius and several times in the past few days my car has died on me when I accelerated from a stopped position. Each time I start up the car, put it in reverse and back out the parking spot with no problem. But as soon as I put the car in Drive and slightly accelerate the car will slightly sputter (like a misfire) and the motor shuts off but I think the electric motor still runs.
The hybrid warning lights come on and after I turn the ignition on and off two times it will start back up and run fine. Once it happened while sitting at a traffic light. But most of the time it happens after shifting from R to D.
Today I sprayed some Throttle cleaner on the Throttle and I flooded the carburetor but after several attempts got the car running again. Drove it some hours later and went from R to D it worked fine. Drove 10 minutes away and let the car sit for around 15 minutes. Put it in R and to D and bam it shut down again.
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I drive a 2002 Opel Corsa and am completely clueless when it comes to anything beyond changing oil and tires...
My windshield wipers have suddenly begun to stop their movement in the top position instead of at the bottom, thereby getting in the way of driving. The wiping function still works perfectly, so it doesn't seem to be a motor issue. The wipers just stop in the wrong position when turned off.
I happened to be at the garage for something else, and the guy there said that he would just have to replace the motor, but to try to to find a used part somewhere so that it wouldn't cost a lot. I think it seems silly to replace the motor for something that seems simple.
How to reset the default of the wipers? Is there a way to just remove the blades and change the position or something?
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My wife was driving her 2008 Gen II Prius and stopped at an intersection. The car died. She had it towed back home, and I have been able to do all of the following:
1) Checked 12v battery voltage. Battery was bad - approx. 10.4 volts.
2) Switched battery with my other Prius (checked voltage first, and that battery was 12.4v and other Prius starts fine).
Car won't start.
3) Pressed brake "very hard" and pushed Start button. --- Car won't start. No lights on dashboard.
4) Checked voltage of battery again with digital volt meter -- 12.4v
5) Checked headlights -- Very bright.
6) Checked dome light -- Very bright.
7) Checked door locks -- Locks & unlocks rapidly.
8) Checked emergency flashers -- All lights blink/flash brightly.
9) Made sure all features listed above are off, pressed brake pedal, pushed Start button again -- Car won't start. No lights on dashboard.
10 Checked voltage of battery again -- 12.4v
11) Tried other key FOB -- Car won't start. No lights on dashboard.
12) Replaced battery on key FOB -- Car won't start. No lights on dashboard.
13) Pushed Start button without depressing brake (to try to initiate accessory mode) -- No accessory mode. No lights on dashboard.
14) Checked voltage of battery again -- 12.4v
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We purchased a used 2002 Prius from our brother-in-law's family and we're the third owners. The car has around 80K and we've owned it for about a month and a half. Before we picked the car up they took it to a dealer and checked it out. They put a new aux battery in the trunk, changed the oil and gave it the green light. We picked it up in Philadelphia and drove it home to Chicago.
Today my wife was returning from a trip down to Missouri. After a stop for gas and refreshments and just getting back on the interstate the car started to die. The warning lights came on and the battery indicator as well as the red triangle. After sitting a little while she was able to start it again but only made it to the next exit where it officially died and needed to be towed to a dealer just outside of St. Louis. It was 104 degrees out this afternoon and she did have the AC, radio and other necessities running during the trip but she had gone less than 100 miles today before it died.
It sucks to be 300 miles away (I'm home) from the car/dealer not really knowing what they'll find or say they found.
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2002 Volvo S40. My son bought his first car. It was inspected a week before he bought it, and has about 50,000 miles. It seemed to drive fine when he purchased it, but after a few days, he heard a squeaking/ chirping sound (that seemed to be coming from the left front side of the car) when he accelerated. The sound stops when he brakes hard. He took the car to a mechanic who told him that he needed new brake pads (front and rear).
He replaced the front pads, but the sound persisted. He went to another mechanic who told him that the pads were not put on properly and smoothed the rotor. The sound decreased for a short time and then returned. The mechanic says that the rotor looks fine, but is now recommending that he replace it since adjusting the brake pad and smoothing the rotor is not working.
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My 2002 Prius died the other day. Getting DTC P3125 when I ran it through my scanner, but I don't have an advanced enough one to get the sub-codes. It's got 215,000 Miles on it, so I would expect something major to be happening at this point.
Here's a detailed description of what happened --- I was driving down the freeway the other day and started noticing my car was sputtering a little bit and losing a slight amount of power. I pulled over to a restaurant to say hi to a friend; when I came back out I started the car and the check engine and battery lights came on. About 10 more miles down the freeway the car started heavily limping and barely was able to get me off the freeway, then the car completely died. When I would start it back up it would die in about 5 to 10 seconds. The 12v auxiliary battery, not the main hybrid battery, had completely died.
I figured it might have been just a dead old battery that needed replacement so I put in another new one. It ran amazingly for about five minutes around the parking lot, then the same thing happened again. It completely died just like before.
The 12v battery isn't getting re-supplied with the juice it needs. Something's wrong in there.
The either the inverter is shot, it's just overheating due to a faulty coolant pump, or the MG2 generator isn't putting juice back into the 12v system.
I checked the fluid reservoir. It looks like it's flowing, but there is a few bubbles floating to the top of the fluid. Is that normal?
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I bought my 2002 prius with 120000 miles. Last night it died with the main battery light and triangle of death on. I haven't taken it to a dealer to have the codes checked out you, but will do it soon. My daughter was driving it when it happened and said the car started shuttering and died. She was able to drive it a few feet at a time before it would die again. Does this sound like a HV battery problem? I will be digging into it tonight.
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My air conditioner is giving me problems. For some reason, when I drive around town taking short trips, my AC refuses to cool the car down. I've also noticed the "outside temperature" gauge displayed in the cluster shows the temperature about 20 degrees hotter than it actually is.
I noticed today while driving on the highway, once I hit 45mph or so, the cool air really started to come through. I've looked at it with a non-Toyota tech after driving around for about an hour, and when we're sitting and idling the low pressure pipe doesn't seem to get cool. After my ride today, I popped the hood when I stopped to check, and it was cool to touch, but not cold as I've felt on other cars.
We also checked the pressure within the system, and it's right on the money (so he says). What could be causing this? I know my AC has never really been as fast as other cars given I keep it in eco mode, but it literally blows warm air until I start going an an accelerated speed.
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I'm driving home today and all of a sudden my car is making noises. I can't really explain what it is, but it sounds like it is coming from the the rear driver's side and happens when I accelerated or turn. I know that isn't much of an explanation, but my car has been fine then just all of a sudden?
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My 2005 Toyota Prius gave me confidence. Here's what happened:
I was driving on the Interstate with the cruise control set at 70 mph. Seeing traffic stopped ahead, I applied the brakes for a moment to slow, then released the brake to coast. Much to my surprise, the cruise control was still engaged and the car accelerated. I applied the brakes again, manually turned off the cruise control, then was able to coast. I drove for another half-hour without incident until the following afternoon when I drove again, experiencing a much more serious problem.
I had just turned left, and was straightening the wheels when I heard, and felt, a loud "snap" in the steering wheel, immediately upon which I knew the steering wheel was disconnected and I could no longer steer the car. Very, very fortunately, and only because I was already nearly stopped, I was able to stop the vehicle without incident.
However, I immediately recognized that, had this happened in almost any other scenario than being nearly parked, the outcome would have been markedly different. The steering wheel is completely loose, not controlling anything, and all the many steering wheel controls are equally disconnected, including the driver's air bag (SRS), something that I would have needed, but wouldn't have worked, had I crashed into oncoming traffic or an Interstate median.
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2005 Yesterday the ABS, VSC and (!) lights came on when I accelerated hard out of a right turn and momentarily lost traction from the back tires. In addition, the parking brake light came on and won't go out whether or not the parking brake is engaged. I had the car towed to the dealership, and I"m waiting for them to look at it.
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I recently took my truck to the mechanic for a bad transmission leak, they told me they had to replace the Oil Cooler Lines (upper and lower) and that they did a transmission service (flushed out the transmission), the leak is fixed, but as soon as I started driving, I noticed that the acceleration is very sluggish from a full stop, I can floor the pedal and there is no difference, once I get going it seems fine (though a bit high on RPM's but not much). I also noticed some of that liquid sealant residue droplets on my windshield, similar to the type of sealant an AC place did for me to seal an AC leak, not sure if that has anything to do with this.
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03 santa fe... During a stereo install the door panels were off and somehow we found a way to screw up the window switch. (the good new's is the stereo sounds awesome) and I can't pass it back onto the installer, he's my brother
all 4 windows stopped working, and of course, they are in the down position which complicates things just a bit
I checked the fuses but they seem ok at least on a visual, although I haven't eliminated that all together the likelihood that its a fuse, or multiple fuses is moving to the bottom of the list.
The window switch, it looks ok on a visual, anything obvious that I can check or look for ? No loose or crimped wires that I can spot.
If the switch itself somehow got fried I can get a replacement, but I'm hesitant to just go out and buy one right now (75ish + ship) and get it in the mail, to get the ball rolling, and god knows what the dealer would want for the part locally. I'll also check local salvage yard to see if at least I can get the part faster if it comes down to that.
Maybe when the new speaker wires were fished through the flex boot we disconnected or loosened the connector under the dash that goes to the switch ?
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I applied brakes while car was moving slowly, less than 10 mph, and heard loud grinding sound coming from left front as car stopped. Shifted to reverse and car barely moved, less than 1 foot, which was accompanied by the loud grinding sound, then stopped. I could find nothing interfering with the wheels but did find pieces of brake pad on the ground along the path the left front wheel had followed. The left front wheel appeared as if the calipers were holding whatever remained of the brake pad and/or backing tight against the rotor. brake pad fell apart on 2002 at 43,561 miles...
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I recently purchased a 01 1.8t GTi with a blown timing belt. I got the car rebuilt, did all maintenance work like brakes , hub/bearings, bushings, oil and all the good stuff that goes into getting the car back up and running. I've finally started driving it and I'm having a weird issue.
Yesterday , I stopped at a red light and the car randomly died on me. Pushed it off the road and checked things out but I couldn't see if there was anything wrong but about 10 minutes later , I was able to restart the car and drive home. Now today , on my way home from work the car starts back firing and I lost all power and rolled to the side of the road where he car would just continue to crank. I was able to get it restarted but it cut out again a couple seconds after. I don't have my code scanner but I know I do have one lean code for something. Maybe cause I have a leak between turbo and dp. I don't have access to vagcom unfortunately..
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Right Front Seat Stopped Working. It was about 2 months after I got the car or 2 weeks after I had it hardwired for a Police Radar power source. I'm pretty sure it was working after the custom police radar power source. I haven't even used the power source since I'm still waiting for the radar to come. So, I don't think it was that or maybe yes.
I went to my dealer and it was there for about 2 days trying to figure out what went wrong. It turns out the 30 amp fuse blew up or died.
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Passenger window just stopped working in closed position. Neither driver's or passenger's switch would operate it. Was told it was probably the motor. Replaced regulator and motor. Window went up from half way down position using driver's side switch, then back to not functioning at all. Window lock button off. Also, now the auto up/down for driver's window not working, needs to be depressed or lifted for open/close. Guess old motor and regulator were ok.
2005 HONDA ELEMENT 80,000 MI...
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My husband (yes, him not me) drove my car (2009 Subaru Forester) last night and admitted this morning to enjoying driving through numerous puddles. I'm pretty sure it was more of a rally-car type of driving, not the careful-who-knows-what-is-in-this-puddle type. The car wasn't driven since then, until this evening. I backed out of the driveway- no issues. I started to pull forward and there was a horrible screeching noise. I stopped, backed up & pulled forward again- nothing. So I drove to the end of the block, still nothing.
Pulling away from the stop sign- screeching again. My first thought was metal was dragging on the ground- nope. Turned around & went back home, inspected the car- nothing seems loose or out of place. It seems I can get the noise to happen if I accelerate normally from a stopped position, but if I start out very gingerly its okay. It happens between 1500 & 2000 RPMs, the wheels can be straight or turned.
We pulled off the rear passenger wheel (where the noise seemed to come from) and noticed the nut/bolt thing that is in the center of the bolts for the lug nuts (on the break assembly- I think) is damaged. There is a bright blue mark on it and a divot in the metal. This is the only damage we can see. With the wheel on, it is covered by the center of the hub cap.
My car is a manual transmission and the breaks have never been in use when the noise happens. What could cause the noise...
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I have a 99 Honda Accord with 172K miles on it. In the last couple months it's started slipping more often than when the problem first started about 4-5ish months ago. It tends to lurch when I start going again from a stopped position and I'm also now noticing it lurching a bit when I go from a slower speed to a faster one while driving...it's more noticeable going from a faster to slower speed when driving. So it tends to lurch most from a stopping position and also when slowing down while going moderate speeds like 40 or 50 mph.
I took it to a shop and they said it's in the begging stages of failure and that I can either rebuild the tranny or drive it until it dies, but that it will die eventually. My question is since it's slipping, is it still ok to drive on longer drives? I was considering driving about 7 hours to see my family in a month or so and I'm not sure if it's worth the risk of driving it that far. I want to buy a new car, but there's more Hondas around where I'm from originally and I just want to get a decent used one since it will cost more to fix the transmission than the car is worth. Thoughts about driving long distances with a slipping transmission????
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I have a 2005 Ford Freestyle 140,000 miles, that has kind of a hiccup miss also there are times when all of the gauges drop and them come back up. I have had the car at the dealership twice and to another mechanic. When I took it to the dealership the first time they told me that it was the spark plugs and the number 1 coil also had a mouse nest in intake manifold. I have replaced the spark plugs, coil 1, clean intake and replaced gasket, replaced MAF, fuel rail sensor and EGR as the codes have been read.
Last time I picked it up from the mechanic it started missing in less than 10 miles to the dealership. The computer said nothing at first then the mechanic took a drive with it. He did have the gauges drop. The codes said charging system. My other mechanic check the battery said it was charging fine and that the alternator and battery cables are all good. Dealership and mechanic are at a loss for what to do.
Last night I was sitting in the car looking for a button that had lost. The car had not been driven all day, off, no key in the ignition. I heard the static noise that I have become familiar with and looked at the cluster and the gauges were all at the below their normal off position shaking and then stopped and returned to normal position. Should I change cables, battery and alternator even when tested they say that they are OK?
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I've got a 2001 Toyota Solara, and the driver's side power window has stopped working (in the "up") position. Other windows and powered items in the car work, and there's no sound when I hit the electric switch. From a rough inspection of the apparatus, I don't think that the regulator itself is shot. I'd love to repair this myself...but for this car it will be way more expensive to buy the regulator/motor unit than just the motor online.
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