Prius (Gen 1) :: 2001 Steering Wheel Locking In Random Positions - Key Getting Stuck In Ignition
Feb 8, 2014
Our 2001 Prius has recently been having problems with the steering wheel locking (not in a position where this would be normal/expected, but in random positions--takes several minutes of wiggling and turning the car on and off to get it unlocked) and the key getting stuck in the ignition (just as if the car weren't in park, except that it is). They might be unrelated, but started occurring at the same time.
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So, I have an 89 Ford Ranger 4-wheel drive and the steering wheel is locked up (along with the ignition switch), neither of which will turn or budge. I've been told to shake steering wheel from side to side while trying to turn key--but after fifteen minutes of that (quite a workout) bupkis, nada, nothing. So, other than taking a sledge hammer to the whole truck? Is there a way to simply break loose the mechanism (I don't need the security aspect of the locking wheel/ignition, since I only use this for "farm use". But I really need it fixed.
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Started this winter as a misfire on random cylinders. I replaced all apart plugs and verified the gap. Replaced all the coils. Still occurred during the cold months. Once it warmed up it went away for a short while. The only codes present at the time were random misfire codes. Took it to a shop and they told me the injector was bad on cyl 1. Today I replaced the injectors with a matched set of 4 matched flow Denzo remand. Ran it on the TIS tech tool and was given a barrage of codes. I can unplug #1 coil and it will smooth out and stall within 90 seconds. Engine runs rough. Intake was just done as well. From Toyota TIS
P3191 – engine didnt start
P3000 - Battery Control System
P3101 – engine system malfunction
P3190 – poor engine power
P1300 - ignition circuit malfunction #1
P0303
P0302
P0301
P0300
c1259 - ABS error code meaning problem with regenerative braking. Probably caused by me forcing the car to recharge the HV while misfiring. HV battery was getting dangerously low from sitting for the last 6 months.
b0116 – LH airbag circut
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Just got the girlfriend a 2002 Santa Fe and the front passenger door locking is a bit random! Sometimes it unlocks and unlocks ok from the key in the drivers door or the lock/unlock buttons, other times it half locks / unlocks (the lock button on the door panel half moves!) and other times it just ignores me all together! The cabling and cable boot from the body to the door seems in good condition (my audi A4 had that problem and you really dont wanna know about the wiring nightmare i had to fix that!!! bloody Germans!!). My feeling is that its a worn actuator.
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I recently picked up a 2001 MK4 jetta and Have some issues with door locks. Upon searching I'm thinking I may have a faulty door lock module.
Symptoms are that the doors will randomly lock for no reason when I unlock the door and sit inside for a min or two. PO broke the drivers armrest control and glued them in place and I think some glue seeped into the lock button as it is very stiff and no longer works. Going to replace the door card and controls but wondering if the problem may be due to typical burnt out soldering points?
For my window issue, passenger window appears to possibly be crooked in the window clips as it stops 3/4 of the way up and will reverse back down as if stuck. I have to keep pressing it to get it to go up. Does this sound like typical broken clips and glass is about to fall? Would I just undo clips and reattach?
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Recently, my Prius has been randomly giving me the single, long warning beep when I try to lock it by touching the handle. The car is definitely not still on, and the key is in my pocket when it happens. I've checked the doors, and none are ajar. It's not 100% consistent, but happens about 50-75% of the time. When it happens, I can lock the car with the key or keyfob - but touching the handle just gets me the long beep and no lock.
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Lately I've been noticing an Intermittent/random steering wheel whine. It happens rarely, but as of late I heard it a couple times. I checked the fluid and its topped off. Car has about 85k on it. I'm not sure when it was last replaced.
I'm thinking My next step would be changing the fluid. What is the actual procedure for doing this? Also, if I do go ahead and change the fluid and still get a whine here and there. What would be my next step?
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2013 Santa Fe 2.2 Turbo Diesel. I left the smart key in its pocket. The battery went flat. Re-charged the battery. Vehicle won't start. Dash does not light up. Warning message displayed is:- Check Steering Wheel locking System. The steering wheel is not locked.
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I have a 2002 petrol, manual, 2.4 Santa Fe
It only had one key when I got it so I ordered a replacement key online -uncoded and uncut. When it arrived I got it cut - looked good. Before getting it coded I thought I would just test the cutting. Opened doors ok so tried it in ignition - fitted and turned engine over - did not start as not coded I presume.
However, when I tried to get the key out again it would not come out. Could this be to do with it's transponder not being coded? Any way I can get it out??
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My 2004 Accent is stuck in the "lock" position in the ignition, and the wheel is locked and barely turns in either direction. I know this is supposed to be an anti-theft feature and I've tried all of the solutions listed here...
Turning the wheel hard and soft in either direction while holding the brake all the way down and trying to turn the key. Putting the car in neutral and then park and trying the above Disconnecting the battery for a few minutes and trying the above Jacking the car up on one side to release the tension on the pin.
My question is can I remove the spring at the bottom of the locking pin by drilling a hole in the center of the plate? I've seen a few youtube videos of this done on BMW's. It will cost me $500 minimum to replace the ignition or steering column based on quotes I got.
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I've got 2 identical 01 models with 150-200k miles that are having issues with the steering wheel chattering and shaking occasionally, like a pump is gravitating or something. I've only noticed it at low/no speed when turning the wheel. It shakes for a second or two, then quits. No fault lights on, and no codes pulled with mini vci...
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2003 Prius - While driving I am notice a howling noise whenever I turn the steering wheel to the left. There is no such noise when turning right and there is no such noise when I turn the wheel to the left while the car is stopped (and the engine is still running).
Is this due to a worn bearing in the steering hub?
A worn wheel bearing?
A worn out drive shaft gear?
I want to know what to look for before tearing the front end apart...
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Years and years ago, I had an issue with my trusty '02. The steering wheel would shake VIOLENTLY back and forth. I went round and round with Toyota, but at the end of all the angry phone calls and emails the issue never got fixed, but they paid for an after market steering rack. I wasn't about to pay the 4-5K to get the issue fixed, so I just pulled the PS relay, and have been driving merrily along with no power steering for about 90K miles. I'm now at about 195K.
About a month ago, I noticed some symptoms.
1) some play in the steering.
2) when I went over some bumps, I could really feel the bounce, and it felt like metal bumping into metal.
3) when I punched the accelerator, there was a delay and a "thunk" feeling.
I was coming up on a major servicing, so I took it in to the dealership. They sorted out a few things that I knew were overdue (wheel bearings, battery coolant, transaxle lube), and came to the decision that the steering problem was that I needed a new rack. I told the gobsmacked mechanic that I just happened to have one, and they put it in, and they recalibrated the steering sensor paddles so that I would again have power steering. When I started the car up in the dealership lot, VIOLENT SHAKING. They took it back in, and declared that was because my ignition battery was marginal (which it was), and that a new battery would sort this out. I thus spent far too much money on a new battery. Two days later, wheel starts shaking, and again I pull the relay. All is normal again.
The questions are these:
1) Can that kind of shaking be repaired?
2) Could it really have been a battery issue? (the battery reads a nice even 12.6 and has a wonderful warranty)
3) Was my issue just tie rods the whole time?
In the meantime, I'm going to get 238K (distance from earth to moon) if it kills us all.
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VWVortex, so I've had some issues with my MK4 recently (go figure). It started with steering wheel getting intermittent and random jerks to the right after driving for about 20 minutes on the highway at any speed any gear but only at around 1/6 throttle. I needed to do front end maintenance anyway, so I replaced both complete LCA's with ECS Tuning's ply ones, went stage 2 BFI engine mounts, stage 2 BFI dogbone mount, both ball joints, both tie rods ends, both axles, and an alignment.
Now I'm getting a shimmy in the steering wheel starting at ~80mph. I know my wheels are slightly bent and are being replaced in the summer when the weather is warmer, but it wasn't doing this same shimmy prior to all this. Just the jerking. Could it be they messed up on the alignment? Its really getting on my nerves considering I've dumped a lot of money trying to fix this problem just to have something else pop up.
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Today I put a new shifter tube in a 02 f450. Everything works well, but the key won't come out and the steering wheel won't lock. Was told there is a button to push by the turn signal side but don't see any. Looked around top and bottom of column and didn't see anything out of place. Also found a black wire with a pink strip not connected to anything. Touched the wire to the column and key dinger sounded. Where should this wire be connected?
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I have a 2001 Santa Fe, and the key is stuck in the ignition. I can't even get it to turn to the Lock position, so it's stuck in accessories. Since I haven't had the funds to do so, I haven't gotten it checked out yet, and it's started to drain my battery. I have to jump it every single morning, so I'm wondering if there's anything I can do until I can gather up the money to fix it.
I have tried moving the steering wheel and shifting it all over the place and spraying DW-40 in there and a whole bunch of other things I've seen work for people on a bunch of different forums, but nothing works. I don't know if this matters, but before it got stuck, it would sometimes be hard to pull out or push the key into the ignition.
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I try to raise my car, but the rear locking string stuck. I can't get them move. I try turn the small ring counter clockwise and clockwise for the bigger ring as the same way I did for rear right, but it doesn't work on the left side. This is Megan racing coilover. I also used liquid wrench but no luck.
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I have a 2003 2.4L 5 speed manual Santa Fe. I was parking my vehicle and removed my key as usual and realized that the car was still running. I put it into reverse rolled back and back into 1st to roll forward just to make sure I wasn't dreaming. I ended up pulling the fuel pump fuse and disconnecting the battery to turn it off.
When I replaced the fuse and reconnected the battery I was able to bump start the vehicle without the key in the car and drive it all the way home with no problem. I took apart all the plastic pieces around the Ignition and attempted to remove the cylinder but was unable to locate any sort of small button or pin to push on to remove it. Where is the release button?
What are my options here? Do I replace the cylinder first or get a new key, or is there something else that I should check first before I take it in.
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It's a 2001 Chevy cavalier. The key is stuck and won't turn the car off. Already have tried shaking the wheel and wd-40. The wipers won't work and the gauges won't turn on until I jiggle the key.
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Only had this car for about a month and 1200 trouble free miles. Really in great shape but with 276K miles on it. Really runs great and feels like a new car inside and out.
Yesterday, a cool morning, 38 deg.. Started at the Ready, backing out of my car port and cut the wheel partially to turn 90 deg. to enter the street. Came to full stop and shift lever is still in Rev, before I could shift to Drive. The steering wheel shutters like I was going over a rough. Jerking slightly from left to right about 2-3 degrees. Stopped within about a second and I still had normal steering response. I continued onto the street and made a ran a 300 mile round trip on freeway and surface streets without any further problems.
I know the power steering is electric assist over mechanical linkage and can only imagine that there was a power glitch in the power convertor and I was feeling pulses from the feed back in the power steering drive. No hydraulics to blame, I don't think.
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My steering wheel and ignition locked up 2 days ago. I tried turning the wheel and the ignition at the same time, tried the brakes, tried shifting gears and anything else i could think of. I think the problem might be with the ignition coils, or multiple ones, but i have bypassed that by hot-wiring the car(which was a pain because of all the anti-theft features).
So I have the car running now and it is almost drivable except the steering wheel is locked up. I need to know how to fix this, i have read plenty on it and i think i can break a pin that locks the steering wheel to make it work, but i don't know where this pin is(might be behind the ignitions, or attached to it somewhere). if i could do this without breaking anything that would be great, but if the car will run, I am ok with it begin broken, because i already hot-wired it so I'm not worried about breaking anything unless it will make the car not run.
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