Prius (Gen 1) :: 2001 Oil / Coolant Leak - Crack Seal
May 1, 2012
2001 Prius with 190K Km (119K mi) on it.
Some background on the car: An inverter replacement when it was less than one year old, the Big-Hand issue, the engine ECU (I think) replaced just after warranty expired, resealing of traction battery terminals... And last month the front brake pads (original) had to be replaced because the driver side inner pad fell off while braking on the highway. lol. The problem was probably due to the inner pads being jammed and received excessive wears. Also, on at least two occasions, the engine ran with extremely low level of oil, or none at all (to the point where the engine sounded different and occasionally shuddered). I don't know what caused the oil level to drop, but ever since then, the engine seems to be going through the entire reservoir of synthetic oil advertised to last 25000 Km in just 5000 Km (~3200 mi). Not sure if the engine is eating up the oil or the car is leaking oil (there is no oil stain where the car is normally parked).
Problem: When the car was brought in for tire replacements last week, the tech noted that "Head gasket leak. Also leaking from tranny cover. Could be crack seal" with an estimate cost to fix the issue at several thousand dollars, which has been vetted by a family member who is a heavy mechanic. I have attached the report for reference.
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I replaced my Radiator, Upper and Lower Hoses, Thermostat and the thermostat gasket yesterday. I am leaking coolant from the thermostat though, It's coming from the seal between the housing and the block. The gasket was brand new and seemed to fit fine. I don't see any damage around where the seal is made..
Going to run and get a new gasket when the store opens.
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I bought a 2006 E350 with a 6.0L diesel. Has some issues I hope to work through, or failing that I'll ditch the thing and learn a lesson.
The pressurized coolant reservoir has a crack/leak in it. Is it wise to only replace it, or should I look for a root cause? The temp gauge does not go past 50% pulling hard up a mountain pass.
This was a fleet vehicle that was pretty much abandoned. There is a chance the reservoir was cannibalized for another rig and had the bad part thrown there but I'll never know.
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My 2001 Prius with 134k miles has been running great but leaves a small amount of coolant on the ground after parking. I've had to add approximately 8 ounces per 100 miles.
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I have an '04 Ranger Edge 3.0 with a severe coolant leak. It appears to be coming from the area where the head/water pump housing meet. I have been told I've lost the seal behind the pump on the timing cover. Is there any way to know for sure? Will I be able to tell, once the pump is out that it isn't coming from the head side? Are there any "special" instructions for re-sealing after replacing pump?
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I had the abs come on on dry pavement.. I changed the front ring gears,, Bought 2 new axles with ring gears all new on there.. fixed the issue.. Now i have a oil leak--transmission oil at the driver's side axle.. Is that the seal there in the trans that should be replaced? difficult? Why leak now if it wasn't leaking before..
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Had our dealer service (non oil change interval) today at 46k miles. Was informed that there is an oil leak from the timing cover seal.
I was told it's not a minor job to remove the timing cover and reseal due to the many labor hours involved. 2 days of work required.
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I have a 2001 F250 Super Duty 5.4 Triton motor with a Transmission Leak. I have drained the Transmission, replaced the Transmission pan gasket and filter. The auto parts store also had me purchase the Torque Converter bearings/seal along with enough transmission fluid and a bottle of Lukas Transmission fix. Do I really need to replace the bearings/seal if I have everything else already ?
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I noticed a bunch of dried coolant during my last oil change, ended up tracking it to where the upper radiator hose meets the reservoir. It's leaking a few drops per week, but it's enough to be irritating. I was only able to catch it by feeling the underside of the hose.
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Searched several times over the winter. Finally tore each hose out one at a time and went carefully over it before returning or replacing.
Turned out to be the long formed semi flexible vac. hose that runs from the gas fumes purge tank control valve group to the throttle body across the top of the engine. Ripped it out, on one of the bends was a small crack all the way thru, apparently would open up wide when stressed and cause problems. Mainly on hill pulls or hard acceleration but not every time. NO hair left after this one.
Replaced, deleted the codes. Runs like a top.
Still amazed at how much power these 4.0L V6 OHV Fords have from low speed on an uphill on ramp drag race.
stirs the old hot rodder blood.
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02 v10 SD. I found a crack in the coolant tank on my 02 Superduty. It is below the radiator cap, just above the crack where it was sealed from the factory. It runs the length of the tank, about 2 and 1/2 inches, across the front top section. Its starting to seep through,but the radiator is still holding pressure. Have any of you with the older Superduty's had this happen to your trucks? What caused or is causing it. I called the Ford dealer tonight about a new one.
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Just purchased a 01 golf 1.8t 5spd and noticed it has a small coolant leak.. Left parking over 2 days in the same spot and it builds up a little puddle.. It's dripping down off of my oil pan and I haven't been able to trace it back to where the leak is coming from..
I've been told it could be my water pump? The car has 92k miles.
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My 2001 Civic sedan coolant reservoir was full after a long drive - with coolant blown out from the top. I am trying to isolate the problem.
1) I Did not notice if temperature gauge rose above the mid-point on the gauge.
2) I Discovered issue after 120+ drive on a hot day (90 degrees plus).
3) The car has almost 230,000 miles.
4) About 1,500 miles prior to this incident I removed my drive belt and replaced it with the shorter drive belt to circumvent the A/C compressor as it or the compressor clutch crapped out on me.
5) The morning after this occurred the coolant reservoir was still ful.
6) I removed the radiator cap and ran the engine for about 15-20 minutes. During this time I noticed the coolant in the radiator begin to rise into the fill neck area of the radiator - no bubbles or movement other than up into the neck area. The top hose was warm and then got hot but it seemed the bottom hose remained cold. I then throttled the gas briefly and nothing happened to include the radiator remaining off. The temperature gauge read just below the mi-point. I then throttled up to about 3,000 RPMs and coolant blew out of the radiator – about 1/2 to 1 liter of coolant came out. At that point, I shut everything down, installed the radiator cap, and cleaned up the coolant. I noticed the bottom hose appeared to now be much warmer than before the coolant blew out. The next morning the coolant reservoir was empty.
7) Today, about one week later, I applied power at both fans and both worked. I checked the relays and both registered no continuity across terminals 1 and 2 - as they should. I checked the radiator fan switch for continuity when cold and there was NO continuity across the contacts - as it should. I ran the engine for about 20 minutes with the radiator cap installed. The temperature reading rose to just below midpoint (normal) and stayed there. Radiator fan had not come on yet. I throttled up and nothing. Idled for several minutes and the temperature gauge rose to about ¾ of the way to “H.” I throttled the engine to look for smoke from the tailpipe – there was none (there is no history of any kind of smoke coming from the exhaust of my civic). I throttled up again, the temperature gauge dropped quickly below the mid-point, and the radiator fan came on for the first time. After the fan kicked off the temperature gauge again rose to ¾. I hit the gas, the temperature gauge dropped quickly to below mid-point, and then the fan came on again.
I was thinking this could be a blown head gasket but now I am questioning my initial thoughts. As of right now there is no coolant in the reservoir. One would think if the head gasket was blown that I would continue to get fluid in the reservoir even with the lost ~1 liter from my earlier test. I checked my engine oil dipstick and it looks clean - just oil. Nothing unusual visible when oil fill cap removed. Wy my coolant reservoir would have filled, blown over, not empty when cooled, only to empty out by the next morning after blowing 1/2 to 1 liter. This has been a loyal car (other than the recent loss of A/C) and I would like to see if I can get 250,000+ miles out of her with no serious maintenance.
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My wifes 2002 gls has a coolant leak from the top radiator hose. I put a new hose on and two new clamps on the leaking end and it still leaks!! I have never seen anything like this and I am not sure how to stop it.
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I just purchased a 2006 Santa Fe Limited with the 3.5l for a great deal. It has a huge coolant leak though that needs fixed. It is coming from the top of the motor on the left side by the timing belt. It is really a small flood, when you fill the coolant and turn on the motor it runs across the top of the motor toward the drivers side. There isn't oil in the coolant and it doesn't smoke. I had it dropped off at my mechanic though. Does the motor really need pulled in these to do the head? I heard that there is a overflow channel from the water pump that comes out right about there as well. Could that maybe be it? Any other options if it is the head gasket to reduce the cost any?
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I have a 2005 Hyundai Elantra GT Hatchback, and it is not going so well with me at the moment. My thermostat works perfectly fine, but my car is overheating. I've taken it to the shop multiple times but still doesn't seem to get fixed. My coolant seems to be fine, and stays at its level, but what doesn't seem to be fine is that it doesn't seem to be sucking strong enough into the radiator so that it can go to the engine! On the lower level coolant cap (one with the hose attached), it seems to be leaking out of there when the car is hot, as if the coolant is trying to suck into the radiator but not strong enough but yet leaks out of it since it isn't strong enough. My theory is, the cap with the hose isn't on tight enough to fully let the coolant suck through the hose, and so air leaks cause the coolant to leak out of it and not into the radiator.
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Got a leak that just developed after a long trip. It's not big, but I am not sure what it could be? I see in front of the rad is a smaller looking rad, and in front of that behind the grill in the bumper is an even smaller radiator-radiator-looking box. I see two small hoses coming out of it, down under the rads but above that metal brace. Does that hold coolant? Or one of the other radiators?
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I drive a 2001 Ford Focus ZTS with ~133000. I just recently filled up my coolant reservoir with 50/50 coolant. 2 days later I needed to fill it again. I went through an entire jug of coolant in 4 days. It seems to be leaking from the top of the engine and the engine runs slightly rough and has a hard time starting some days (more often recently). How bad is it doc?
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I've got a 2001 Explorer 4.0L with around 160,000 miles on it. Just noticed this morning it has developed a coolant leak. It's dripping off the rear of the oil pan and appears to be coming from the passenger side somewhere above the oil filter. Without tearing a bunch of stuff apart, I can't really see for sure where its coming from. Are there any common issues with this? I'm hoping its not a head gasket...
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I have an '01 Grand AM GT, 6 cyl 3400 engine.
It over heated about a week ago, coolant was low so I added more. Around that time I noticed white smoke/exhaust coming out as well. There was no odor to it so at first I thought nothing of it.
After a few days, the coolant reservoir was low again. On my way home one night I noticed an engine knock that sped up and slowed down with the RPM's but didnt get louder or quieter. Fortunately, the next day the Passlock system kicked in and I havent been able to start my car in a week.
I finally figured out the passlock issue (BCM was getting water in it from somewhere, cleaned off the connector pins and it started right up! found that fix somewhere on AF)
I changed the oil and the engine knock is still there. Now its a little more prominent and the engine was shaking tonight. Took out the spark plugs and they look and smell like they have oil on them. From what I've read so far it seems like it could be a valve cover gasket and/or the head gasket.
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I have an 01 supercab. 5.4 Triton 135k. I have begun to smell coolant the last couple of days. Have seen nothing leaking and truck doesn't run hot.
Will investigate more this weekend. Where to start looking for this. It has to be leaking somewhere. Windows don't fog and the smell is there all the time. I live in florida so don't use much heat.
Not the heater core. Heat works fine and no smell from the vents.
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