I have an '01 Prius with ~80,000 miles now. I bought it with a known brake issue, however upon further diagnosis, it appears the problem is with the Brake accumulator.
View 10 RepliesOkay, quick run down;
2004 prius
Brake sensors, all 4, changed
Accumulator changed
Still throwing codes even when reset by dealer. They have bled the brake lines 5 times, reset codes and still throwing codes.
I have noticed that when I open the door to the driver's side after the car has been sitting overnight that the pump noise is longer than half a year ago when i bought it used. It used to last for max. 3 or so seconds, and now it takes 5-10s - depends. I can get into car and almost get it into ready and then it ends.
Also, every second or third time i press the brake (normal, like when stopping gently) i can hear the sound of the pump for around 2 seconds. I don't remember that happening before so is this or isn't normal?
Last week my ABS warning light came on. I took it to a mechanic (who I trust but is not a Prius-specific mechanic) who said warnings are coming up for the anti-lock accumulator and hydro boost motor. However, in July 2011 I had these both replaced. The work was done by a Toyota dealership. I ended up taking my car back 4 times after this work was completed as it kept having braking issues. They replaced the shim kit and bled the brakes. And eventually they replaced the master cylinder (this they did under warranty bc there was no way I was paying them any more money). At no point did they seem to understand what they were doing. (Along the way they broke my windshield and killed my battery.)
Finally by November 2011 my car was driving normal again. And then the warning light and high-pitched alarm went off again last week. I talked to Toyota Corporate who suggested I call the dealer to do the work since technically the accumulator and motor just ran out of their one year warranty. But this is the same dealer that didn't seem to know what they were doing last year.
I bought my Prius after I tested the car around town and on the highway and went smoothly. I drove the car about 200 km after the warning came on board, high temperature and cold engine warning (red and blue). Stopped the car and I found nothing to be hot (engine or inverter).
I rebooted and the errors disappeared but reappeared and on the highway (120 km) car no longer accelerate, pedal did not respond.Stopped and restarted repeatedly trying to get as close to home and a Toyota service. High and low temperature have appeared and disappeared after stopped and restarted. Warnings appear together, none or only one of them.
But after 600 km appeared turtle on board and the car stopped. I was unable to start. They came from Toyota and were able to start with another auxiliary battery and ran 10 km with a tester on the dashboard (at full throttle and the car accelerated 1 km / sec until it reached 60 km / h then accelerated normal to 125km/h. When he put the foot on brake and after that tried to accelerate again the pedal was non responsive and the car stopped again and they towed it.
Next day they told me that the ECU is faulty (the one located behind the glove compartment) together with the Auxiliary Battery.(1100 Euro ECU).They told me that the temperature sensor is 200 degrees Celsius with a cold engine.
We towed the car to another service closer to home (1300 km) and asked a second opinion telling me that is defective inverter. I decided to buy an ECU. (220 Euro/ second hand)
Meanwhile my traction battery died after they tried to start the car many times.
After I charged the traction battery (one module at a time), whole battery shown after charging 301 V.
Now I have the following :
P3120 HV transaxle / Wire harness
INF. Code 249 (Open or +B short in motor temperature sensor)
The wife's 2003 GX470 has some brake issues. High pitched whine and ABS and Brake lights went on, so I took it to my local lexus dealer which is 50 miles away. Anyway, the recommendation is to replace "brake booster" and "accumulator" with brake system bleed.
Then, says "may need master cylinder after that, will not know until that is completed
Then goes on to need timing belt, water pump due to miles (97K)
CV boots
Driveline service
[URL]..................
I have a 2001 Ford F250 truck -- it was stalling out (which was diagnosed as a faulty fuel pump), so I had the dang thing replaced. But nearly 6 months later, it's randomly stalling out again when I put it in reverse or stop at a light.
View 1 RepliesMy 2003 with 150K miles has had the blinking A/C light problem for the past year or so. I ran the diagnosis, got the 22 code, so it seems the clutch needs to be adjusted or replaced. If I leave the A/C on Max with the fan on at Max, the A/C works fine (for at least as long as my daily commute, about 40 mins). Once I turn the fan down or turn Max off, the lights start blinking within 5-10 minutes and the A/C doesn't work. Is this consistent with the clutch problem?
View 5 RepliesA few months back, my wife (2007 Prius) was telling me that she had some stuff going on with it. I found the diagnostic test for the 12 v battery and it failed. So I replaced the 12v and everything was fine until about two weeks ago. Two weeks ago, she got a check engine light. Then she stopped the car and when she fired back up again, the light was extinguished. So, I figured no big deal. Yesterday, she went to leave and the car was lit up like a Christmas tree. So she took my truck to work and left me a note about this. She figured I would drive my garage queen Vette... but I chose to drive the Prius to see if I could figure out some things, which I did.
Here is everything that I noticed thus far:
First, I will start with lights. Brake System Warning light is on, Check engine malfunction indicator is on, Red triangle with exclamation point Master warning light is on, VSC Vehicle stability control system warning light is on. Then on the tv screen panel, the Hybrid system warning light is on. I ran down to O'Reilly's to see what codes it pulled, and this is what I have: C0200 Right VSS, C0205 Left VSS, C1259 Regenerative Malfunction, C1310 Malfunction H/V System, P1121 Coolant flow control, X2 Valve Sensor Circuit stack, P0A80 Replace Hybrid Battery Pack, P3015 Battery Block 5 Becomes Weak, P3016 Battery Block 6 becomes weak, and then a few more repeats.
What I have looked at and what I have noticed/experienced thus far; At the beginning of the day yesterday, when stopped at a light, the engine would turn on and then shut off frequently (approx every 20 seconds). A lot more than normal. As of today, the engine just stays on constantly... even after the battery indicator shows full, it stays running. The battery cooling fan stays running. Sometimes the car lacks power at start out, When slowing down, I tried selecting the "B" as I know that it would normally work as a trans brake and regenerate power, it doesn't seem to be doing that and it seems as though the tranny doesn't know exactly what to do. I checked the 12v battery again through the diagnostic and it says it was at 12.2v so that should be good. I noticed that the battery indicator will show full and then just drop down to one bar and then go back up to full and stay at full for a while. Lastly, I saw the inverter check and I did that by turning the car on (ready on) and I can see the fluid moving around and I can feel it in the tube and the fluid level is good.
It sounds to me as if the ECM/ECU may be bad. Or maybe the HV battery. I was leaning towards the ECM/ECU just because of all of the different fluctuations, but with electrical stuff, it could very well be the battery.
Just used Carista to switch to a single beep when reversing. Whilst I was in the app, just out of curiosity, I checked for error codes. B1423 appeared. I didn't expect to see anything as the car is brand new.
View 8 RepliesI have around 68k miles on my 2009 Prius and just got a CEL, the Red Triangle with an exclamation point, an intermittently occurring VSC light, and an intermittently occurring yellow circle with an exclamation point on the upper dash display. I also have a car shaped icon with an exclamation point on my main display (ICE?). My scan tool shows P0093 as the only code.
View 19 RepliesI have a 2005 Prius with 98,000 miles on the clock, two weeks ago, the engine check light came on and I plugged in a "V-Checker OBD II reader.
Read the code P0420 and reset. Don't get bogged down regarding the P0420 code as this is just background to what happened next. The P0420 code has not come on again, reset was done last week.
Removed the OBD reader and noticed the VSC+ABS+Braking+Handbrake lights on, car drives OK, braking not quite what was, notice kind of "afterthought" when the brake pedal released. The Ready light does not come on, but the car starts fine and drives . I am sure the OBD reader caused the VCS etc problem, because there was no issues in that area until the OBD reader used, and in the minute or so of plugging it in, the VSC lights are on.
Code now present are C1203 and C1345.
Tried the Pin TC + CH pin procedures without success. Took to an independent Toyota Specialist, he did manage to clear the lights, but they came back on within half a mile during test drive. Could not clear lights after that. He recommended changing the 12V battery, which we did, but did not clear lights.
I got red triangle and headlight icon on the screen. I hooked OBD and It gave me error code P1116, I checked all my front, back lights are working fine.
View 19 RepliesCar was perfectly fine. Parked it in a parking spot, turned it off for a minute, started it back up, and BAM, Master Indicator Light is illuminated(not blinking), along with check engine light. (yellow, not blinking)
Code reader gives me these two codes: P0ac0 and P0afa
Upon turning on my car and driving a few feet I had the Red Triangle of Death, Yellow VSC, Yellow (!) Indicator, and check engine light and I'm trying to figure out where I should start working on the issue.
The Codes were as Follows:
P3000 (subcode 123)
C0200
C1241
C1300
C1310
C1259
A little history:
About 3 months ago I had an issue with the hybrid battery and replaced a battery cell which stopped all issues. About 2 weeks ago I replaced the coolant inverter pump and until today there has been no errors, CELs, or any negative performance.
This is a Gen II, 2007 prius with almost 200k miles.
Unfortunately I had plans that I could not reschedule and made the drive to the location and drove back. I had serious battery drain and it was almost always at 1 bar of battery, sometime reaching up to 2 bars. There is also the sound of a fan coming from the back seat, which I assume is the HV Battery fan, but it is on regardless of if I have air conditioning or not. A/C is working fine. When I returned home the battery charged almost up to full bars, but when I came to a stop the battery drained in about 10 seconds leaving me with very low power to keep moving. After that whenever I slowed down the teal arrows showing a recharge of the battery were gone and the battery seemed to refuse to recharge.
Steps taken so far:
I topped off my engine coolant in the front reservoir as it seemed a little low, but I didn't add much before it was full. The other reservoir near the engine was just about full and taking off the other cap showed coolant filled to the top.
I tested the 12v battery with my voltmeter which came back reading 12.7.
2008 Toyota Prius Touring. I got a Check Engine Light while at a drive-thru, and my "Automatic" adapter reports this:
I drove the remaining ~60 miles home without incident, and the engine seems to be running smoothly and I don't notice any loss of power or rough idling or anything along those lines.
Going by the first few Google results, a P0011 error could indicate a few things:
-Incorrect camshaft timing
-Wiring problems (harness/wiring) in intake timing control valve control solenoid system
-Continuous oil flow to VCT piston chamber
-Failed timing valve control solenoid (stuck open)
I've had this car for ~3 years and have always been super careful about regular oil changes and maintenance, including dropping an ungodly amount of money getting the "full 100,000 mile service package" at the dealership ~6 months ago.
Suddenly getting a P0011 error code and Check Engine light on a well-maintained 2008 Prius w/ 112,000 miles.
I just bought my 2006 Toyota Prius about a year ago in 2009. About a month or two ago, the check engine light came on and stayed on along with a big red triangular warning light.
I brought the vehicle into my local Toyota dealership so they can diagnose it.They told me that they had 3 or 4 different "codes" coming from the machine when getting the signals from the check engine light. All the codes were related to the cooling system. They said that they felt that there was "debris" clogging the pathway for the coolant flow throughout the engine. They had recommended a "coolant flush" for the hybrid side as well as the mechanical side.
So I had them perform the coolant flushes. After leaving the dealership that 1st time, the check engine light came back on the next day. I called the same dealership and explained it to them. They asked me to bring it in again.
SO I brought it to them a 2nd time. They diagnosed it again. They told me they came up with 2 of the SAME "codes" and 1 that was different, but ALL the codes were STILL related to the cooling system. They explained to me that something was preventing the clear flow of coolant throughout the engine. And since the thermostat was the only major obstacle, they recommended that I replace it. Well, I did. And after I left the dealership that 2nd time, I was praying that this was the last of my Prius issues !
The check engine light came back on the next day. The service person invited me back and did not charge me this time because it was the same issue. I told them that I am not in the business of randomly changing parts on my car unless I am absolutely sure I know exactly what the problem is. HOWEVER, this time they kept my vehicle for a good week or two. Running it through various diagnostics tests overnight here and there.
They finally came out and said that they feel that I have a coolant system leak coming from my engine and that I need to replace my head gasket which is responsible for sealing the engine.
During my 1st visit, the codes were P0117 and P1150
During the 2nd and 3rd visits , in addition to those, there was one additional one that came up that I will post as soon as I find it !
I have just bought a 58 plate (late 2008) Prius T-Spirit, 32k miles . These are a couple of issues I am having (car was bought 7 days ago, issues appeared after a couple hours of driving home from dealer)
Engine Warning Light on. Diagnosis says P0138 and P2195 relating to fuel mixture and 02 sensor. If codes are cleared, they reappear when accelerating quickly uphill etc
Wheel alignment issues. I have to have the wheel around 15 degrees to the left when driving to go in a straight line, getting worse at higher speeds.
Squeak/ Squeal when driving. This happens very intermittently below 35mph. Sometimes when braking, but mostly through normal driving.
Here is my situation- back in 2014 I had a local mechanic replace my HV battery and 12V battery after the Red Triangle of Death. Well yesterday that triangle reared its ugly head again! (and cruise control stopped working) Since this mechanic has 3 year, 36,000 mile warranty on all parts and labor, I figured this should be covered. I drove my wife's car to work today, then after work drove the Prius over there to find them closed until Friday!
So I had the guys at Advanced Auto read the codes for me and got P3006, C1213, and C1259. I have done extensive reading and researching, much of it on this site on these codes, but my main question is this:
I commute about 20 miles one way, and on certain days my wife commutes 10 to 22 miles the opposite direction. There are 3 days we go opposite ways this week, and at least one that is completely unmanageable without 2 cars.
I bought an '04 prius about a month ago and it has already been at Toyota for over a week. It get's the red triangle, the yellow brake light, and the hybrid red car on the screen and says Problem! I took it to the dealer and he pulled the codes P3009 and info code 526. When you open the hood, the inverter overflow tank is boiling, so it must be overheating. I have read about the pumps going out and when the engine is cool there is turbulence in the overflow tank.
The guy I bought it from did say he had replaced the water pump recently. Toyota kept it for a week trying to replicate and couldn't, and even had the regional rep look at it.
seem to be losing brake fluid from the area of the ABS system and it dripping down on the brake lines underneath. Noticed this when draining excess oil from the engine (dealers!!!!). I'm thinking this has been leaking a long time. I have the worst luck finding a reputable mechanic anymore and if I can't trust a dealer...
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