Prius (Gen 1) :: 2001 - Car Stalls When Put It In Gear
Apr 24, 2013
I have a Prius 1st gen and I just started having this problem yesterday. I started the car and the warning lights came on but the engine started. Then I put it into gear and the car stalled, engine shut down completely. Then I put it back into park and the engine started up again. So I put it into drive again and the engine shut down again, put it back into park and the engine started up. So I turned off the car and waited several minutes, started the car and put it into drive gear and was able to drive it to a mechanic. He said they couldn't get a code reading on it.
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I replaced the MTX transmission, and while cleaning off the rotors of oil, I let the one side spin while in first gear. I put the wheels back on and started to back out of the driveway. It seemed as if I was rolling into something as it wanted to stop moving backwards. I then put the front of the car back on jackstands and tried to move through the gears. While in 1st or reverse, the car begins to engage and then acts as if it is grabbing gears and will stall. The car does not want to move. I then went outside with the car off and tried to spin the wheels in neutral. One wheel spins one way, the other spins another. I tried to put the car in reverse and it starts to move the tires, then catches on something and stalls. Then, the shifter is stuck in reverse and I have to work to get it out.
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Have a 2001 CRV that is running really bad. It almost stalls when I put it in gear or even when the RPM's fall to idle. It is now throwing a p0172 code. I have a simple scan tool and verified the MAP reading and primary O2 voltages as suggested by the manual, both appeared to be normal. It seems all the symptoms point to valve clearance, however the valve were adjusted not 2000 miles ago by the dealer during the 150K service, and this issue has existed before and after that adjustment. I also cleaned the IAC screen with no changes.
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2001 Prius with 230,000 miles, replacement hybrid battery in January 2009 at 197,000 miles has recently been having mutliple electronic problems. Current status is:
o Disconnect the 12 v battery for one or two days.
o Re-connect the 12 v battery.
o Turn key and the ICE starts up and runs normally for about 20 seconds, but all warning lights are on: Red Triangle, PS, ! Car.
o ICE begins to shudder and shake as if it is attempting to engage something that won't turn.
o After about 15-20 seconds of shudder/shake the ICE dies and nothing will happen until I start over at disconnect of 12v battery.
I am guessing that the ICE is trying to engage the motor/generator that recharges the main battery, but it is stuck. Is that what is called "the inverter"?
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This evening, after not driving my car for a couple of days, I tried to start it and got the check engine light, triangle with exclamation point, and car symbol with exclamation point. It seemed to start, then shuddered and stalled. I was able to get it going by immediately putting it in drive and driving before it had a chance to stall. Then while driving, stepping on the accelerator did nothing- like no gas was getting through yet the car was still moving ahead. I quickly returned home and checked Prius Chat for advice.
I checked the throttle body, which was not stuck, but did see a tiny pool of oil in the bottom. I then started it in the driveway and the tiny pool of oil disappeared and it stayed running. I then took it out for another drive and it ran fine and accelerated normally.
All the warning lights are still on though, and I will try and get the codes read tomorrow or the next day.
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2003 Prius starts then stalls (shudders bad) then starts right after with no problem.
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My 2001 Prius (230,000 miles) is unusable. I can clear the codes. The engine will start up fine. After a few seconds it starts bucking and jerking as if the engine is trying to engage something that won't turn and finally stalls. It is similar to a manual transmission car's action if you fail to push the clutch in when you stop the car. What the engine is trying to engage? I don't have any scanner to read the codes.
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I read the forums and found nothing quite like mine.
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Looking at a 2003 Prius with 77K miles. Turn the key, the engine starts, runs smooth for about 5-7 seconds. After that it starts to run rough and rattle, then shuts off. The only code I pulled was P3191. I pulled off the air cleaner to clean the throttle body, and noticed a small pool of oil in the bottom of the intake manifold. Is that normal, or could that be causing the code issue? BTW, I cleaned the MAF and throttle body, and the engine still does the same thing.
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I just had the APR Stage 3 GTX kit installed on my golf R about 3 weeks ago. Was running great until a few days ago and was making around 28 ish lbs of boost. I started having problems with the stalling the car in first gear a few days ago. It has a moment of hesitation in 1st gear when you hit the accelerator and my vacuum at idle fluctuates a bit and is reading about 20 on my PODI gauge when it use to be around 23-24. Vacuum drops to around 18 with air conditioner on.
I cleaned my intake today and re-oiled it...was extremely dirty. no change in the idle and now the car makes a max of about 12 lbs of boost. I believe it was likely the same before I changed the filter I don't see any visible vacuum leak and the engine runs smooth. it doesn't have and DTC codes present. When at idle and I take the oil cap off it idles rough. Just a slightly rough idle in first and the car won't make more than 12 lbs of boost in any gear in any rpm situation.
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I have a 1956 Chevy Bel-Air that has been in my family since purchased new. It stalls when I put it in gear (reverse, to be precise). Any thoughts as to why? And, what can I do to repair it?
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I have a problem I have been struggling with for the last year.... Here are the main symptoms:
- Engine stutters and sometime stalls ONLY in 3rd and 4th gear
- 1st and 2nd gear has NEVER given us a problem
- The outside temperature has to be above 75 degrees. The truck ran great all winter, but last week with the first warm day, acted up again
- There has to be a sizable load (6 adults, full tank of gas)
- gets much worse going up hills (again load)
Not sure if it is related but one time in the winter, the truck stopped blowing heat. If I turned off the fan, the system would "build up" heat but then as soon as I turned it back on, the heat would stay for maybe 30 seconds and then fizzle out back to cold air. This happened only on the coldest day of the year. The heat has been decent the rest of the time.
Last year they replaced the crankshaft position sensor like 4 times, then claimed it was the ECM, replaced that and it still acted up. Then they finally said it was some corrosion in the wiring harness. However by the time they got through with it, it got cold enough outside where it didn't act up any more.
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My engine stalls when cold or warm, when put in gear or idling in gear at a stop. If I left foot break and give a little gas I can usually keep it going. I ran 2 bottles of fuel injector cleaner through, but no dice. Could the fuel filter need to be replaced? If so, where is it located? 1991 Aerostar 3.0 Auto RWD
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I'm having a hell of a time with my mountaineer. Reverse went out so I put a tranny in it. It was junk. Got another and it worked fine. Drove it to get gas then home. Woke up this morning to go to work and it stalls out when put in reverse or drive. I broke the o2 sensor when putting the tranny in so bought a new one hoping it would solve the problem and no luck.
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I changed the plugs on my 2004 F-150 FX4 with 165,000 miles. Immediately afterwards I experienced a low idle problem. After engine warms up, idle is at about 400 rpm in nuetral or park. When I put in gear it drops to 200 rpm and sometimes stalls. Ford analyzer says misfire #8 cylinder. I swapped coils with #7 and reset fault. #8 cylinder misfire came back. So next I put new plug in #8 thinking the plug was bad. Still have low idle problem. What I should try next?
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2003. Ranger xlt with the 4.0.... So I just bought this truck and was informed that the vacuum might not be functioning correctly. And here's the symptoms. It idles a little rough, nothing major. When I put the truck into gear either drive or reverse, it stalls out almost every time unless I give it some gas and hold the brake. But after that I could drive it all day with out a problem, as long as I don't put it into park. And last it starts a little hard. But the damn thing runs great while driving it. It's still very snappy even having high miles.
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A week ago, driving home, the tech started to drop quickly to zero then recover, like the ignition was turned off and then back on. I was able to make it home. The car was due a tune up. I replaced the crank position sensor (OEM), replaced sparkplugs (Autolite Iridium), air filter, fuel filter, no luck. I ohmed the coil packs, secondary resistance showed good, replaced the ignition control module (aftermarket). After this, engine would stall after it was at temp, could restart, once put in gear it would stall, but I could go in reverse and drive home backwards.
Reinstalled original OEM ignition control module. Towed to GM Dealership, mechanic said fuel pump was bad, ignition wires needed replaced, one injector ohmed bad. I took car home, replaced fuel pump (OEM), ignition wires (OEM), no luck. Removed plenum, found pcv valve clogged, and hose kinked, replaced both, ohmed all 6 injectors, 5 injectors read 12.3 ohms, 1 injector was 11.6. Replaced all 6 injectors, (Napa), plenum gasket, still same problem.
GM dealership said computer said no data, they though perhaps ignition control module was bad, but I don't think so. I hooked up my Actron shorting plug, reads code 12 which means no faults, no other codes. I noticed EGR valve has a lot of carbon in the hole, thought about changing it, but I'm really not sure where to go now. The car is a 1994 Chevy Lumina with 230,000 miles, spent about $500 the last week doing brakes, and trying to fix this engine. Where to go from here.
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My 2000 Honda CRV starts when cold, however I must continue to give it gas and it will die when I shift into Reverse or Drive. If I rev the engine, I can keep it running and it will run OK once warmed up. When I get it going, the engine will stall if I attempt to let it idle. All problems resolve themselves once the engine is warm. Several mechanics have seen the problem, but cannot determine a solution other than to let the engine warm up. I live in Boston and the combination of having to work my way out of a parking space and the enginge continously stalling when I shift into R or D is making life difficult?
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I had what I was told was the breather (on the drivers side valve cover) snap off. I was able to place a piece of tubing In it and reconnect it. I had to change the #7 cylinder spark plug wire. Got a misfire code and found the wire was loose and corroded. Replaced wire and PVC valve.
My problem is, it seems not to be idling as fast as it was before this happened. The truck stalls out now in gear but not in park. 1997 F150 4.6 ....
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I was driving on the highway today, and when I turned onto the exit ramp and put the car in neutral I noticed my gear shifter shaking back and forth pretty violently. I looked down at the tachometer and saw it idling at less than 200 rpm's in neutral. I got to the light and my car stalled. I turned it back on and I had to feather the gas pedal just to keep the car running. I was able to make it to my local car mechanic with one foot on the gas pedal and my hand on the e-brake. It runs a little rough when in gear but at least it keeps the rpm's up enough to stay running. The check engine light never came on. My guy said that he didn't have the appropriate diagnostic machine, but he's afraid I might need a new throttle body and a new computer which may cost 1000's of dollars. I think the code he told me that he found was P0506. He sent me to a guy that deals only with Japanese cars, but they won't be able to look at my car until Monday.
Any thoughts? Hopefully something that doesn't cost 1000's of dollars. And if I replace the throttle body does that mean I have to replace the computer too? Is there something that I did or that I didn't do that I should have been doing that could have caused this to break?
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2007 F350 138,000 miles
I'm having a small problem. For the past couple of weeks I've started the truck in the morning. I let it run for a few min's as I always do. I jump in it an put into gear and it stalls. Put back in Park , starts right up and then is fine.
knowing that the EGR is due for its monthly cleaning, I went ahead this time around and got a new one for it. Same thing this morning.
I think its kinda odd that it stalls that one time and then is fine. I do run a scan gauge in the truck as well.
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