Prius (Gen 1) :: 2001 - Battery Charges Only Half Way
Oct 29, 2012
My car has been in the toyota shop all day they cant figure out why it wont charge up fully. Car has 350k on it; traction battery replaced 100k ago--inverter replaced has 60 k on it. Cars battery will fully charge for about 800 miles and then start charging only half way, transmission only has about 80k on it.
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Have 1000 miles left on the 150K CA battery on my 2009.
First, I can no longer enter EV mode with the ev mode. It always says cannot change into ev mode right now. In the past, that only occurred during the warm up cycles. Now it always says that regardless except if I try when first powering on before the engine starts. In that case, when it was working, it would switch over and the MFD would change to show the battery. Now nothing and the engine always starts.
Also, the battery charges and discharges much faster than it used to. I can barely get a 1/4 in stealth (feathering the throttle to keep the ICE from kicking on) without it going from 8 bars down to 2.
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For the last few weeks, it has seemed that the battery gauge on my 2002 has been half full more often than it should. I admit that I have no good science for this determination, but about half the time when I return home from work the gauge shows half full, and it returns to full after about 1 - 2 miles of driving. The car has about 122K miles on it.
Today I took a long drive through some pretty steep terrain toward the New River Gorge in WVA. Round trip it was about 750 miles. On the way home, I got an error on the console. I'm not sure what it was, but on the main display there were three boxes with writing. I didn't read them as I was pulling off to the shoulder. By the time I got there, the warning was gone. I turned the car off and restarted it. Everything looked good and I headed the remaining 10 miles home.
Once home, when I turned the car off, I heard a vibrating noise from (I think) the left side of the hood for about 5 - 10 seconds. I turned the car on again, and there is a vibrating sound, and the same turnoff problem.
Is this the final death knell of my traction battery? I have a 120K servicing due about now. I have been planning a reinvolt battery, but it is a bit of a drive away. Should I consider trailering the car down?
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New BMW x5 only charges the battery while braking, eleccoasting. So it uses the vehicles momentum to drive motor which is connected to alt of course to generelect which is stored in the battery. It can gain approx 3% in fuel economy using this process. So does voltage readout fluctuate or read lower while stopped at light? I bet the volt gauge is adjusted by computer so driver does not see up/down swings.
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I've noticed that my battery only charges to 6 out of the 8 bars and have never gotten it to go higher. How to get the battery to fully charge?
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I've watched the DVD, I've browsed through the manual and I still don't understand this car. After 2 weeks, I have 150 miles on the car and the battery display has never shown it to be more than half charged - mostly under half, like only highlighting/reading 3 bars. I'm averaging 28 mpg. I've driven in power mode and EV mode and neither seems to make a difference to the mpg. I've been on the Hwy with it, but due to construction zones haven't had it up past 60 mph. Most of the miles have been racked up on roads with speed limits of 35/40 mph. I guess what I'm asking, primarily, is should I be concerned about the battery not fully charging? And, is there a break-in period with this car like there was/is with American made autos?
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I wanna know if I can take a regular car battery 500-600 cca to replace the old aux battery.
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Today while I was out driving in the country, my 2001 Prius with 140,900 miles pulled an error code. The red triangle popped up on the dash along with a "Check Engine" light and the car symbol with the "!" through it came on the MFD. I was able to get it back home safely by the way. The car had a weak 12v battery as it is, and I have been planning on replacing it but haven't gotten around to it yet. What I want to know though is, can a weak 12v battery cause those warning lights?
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So here's the deal my '02 prius' traction battery is dying really fast. But here's the thing, it will charge fully and be fine for a few months and then one day Its like the battery says, "now I don't want to play anymore." and dies really fast and is a pain to charge even a little bit. I can even drive to work (at least half an hour away) and I can get to freeway speeds and charging 95% of the way and it will still be at a very low charge. Then after a while it will charge all the time while staying fully charged. I'm eventually going to replace the battery anyway but wanted to know if it sounded like something else, too.
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I had this happen twice. The Prius will run the ICE non-stop to recharge the battery. Even after the Energy monitor shows the battery to have a full charge (yes, 100% green), the ICE just keeps working to charge it up. Accelerating even slightly, which would normally use the battery only, uses the ICE instead.
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I need to replace the main battery on my 2003 prius - whether or not they've replaced the battery, and what the end result was afterwards - did the car continue to last? Is this just a "regular maintenance' thing and all else will work swell, or is the beginning of the end?
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My main battery is dieing will my prius run on just gas until I can get it fixed? It is a 2001 hybrid. I need to get to work for the weekend.
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New owner for a 2002 SC, Made mistake when lowering top to hit trunk button, top has stopped half open half closed Light on lose button is solid red and if pushed blinks red but nothing happens.
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Car stalled and ran on battery only. Set code P3125, and depleted aux battery. So, I replaced the inverter and recharged aux battery.
Drove it 20-30 miles test driving it, when the MIL came on.
Drove home and found 2 codes set, 1st was set while driving, 2nd was set after parking.
P3000/123 - MPH=22 MG2.RPM=1280 SOC=65% Position=D
P3125/287 - MPH=1 SOC=60% Position=P
Any TSB on this issue?
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I rebuilt the HV battery w/(tested) Gen II cells on a 2001 that I purchased cheap knowing that the HV was bad.
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P0420 CATALYST EFF BELOW THRESHOLD
P0440 EVAP EMISSION SYSTEM
P0441 EVAP EMM SYSTEM INCORRECT PURGE FLOW
P0446 EVAP VENT CONTROL CIRCUIT
P3190
P3191
P0300 RANDOM MISFIRE
P0301 CYL 1 MISFIRE
P0304 CYL 4 MISFIRE
Was driving on highway in mild rain and car started to shudder and stalled. I ran it on the electric motor for a while to get out of traffic so it's fairly drained. Has a year old main battery and a year old 12V Optima battery. Car has 202,000 miles.
The cat code and possibly evap were on all year as check engine light has been on. I get the triangle of death with exclamation point on the right car icon on the screen as well as the check engine light. After resetting the codes the triangle hasn't come back. Haven't rechecked the other codes as it was a borrowed generic scanner.
Just checked the 12V battery at Autozone and they say it's good but discharged. Car won't start and it seems to kill the 12V battery if left to sit. I did the throttle body and MAF clean even though they both looked ok. A little oil in the intake so I mopped it up. Didn't work. I hooked up another 12V battery with jumper cables and it doesn't work. Checked the fuel pump relay and it's ok. I pulled spark plug 1 and it was fine. Check main battery and 12V connections -all fine - tight and no corrosion.
I'll try to check fuel pressure and spark.
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I have a 2001 Prius, and a hybrid fault came up on the screen. I took it in and was told that #4 cell had a fault and it needed a need battery. I don't want to speed $3650.00 for a new battery!!
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well I saw one other thread on this topic but no resolution. I replaced the hybrid battery like the codes told me too on my 2003 prius and it now drives great but as soon as it start it shows a problem and the red triangle stays on. No check engine light, no codes, no driving issues just a red triangle. How to diagnose a red triangle when there are no codes.
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Ok just bought this 2001 Prius One Owner new car trade in it sat for a month without moving It needed a boost to start it then the three lights on the display lighted up PS+Main Batt + a pic of the car with a ! in it ! is it just from sitting so long and the Battery is low ? If I use an OBD and reset it will this and a charge take care of the problem ??
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I'm sure it's been mentioned before, but if you need to put an 01-03 Prius into Neutral with dead battery (i.e. to push the car so you can reach it with jumper cables) you need to remove the rectangular panel on the bottom drivers side of the steering column. It's tiny, smaller than a postage stamp. Use a strong pen-knife or very small screwdriver to pop the panel out.
You may want to remove the panel when things are good, so if you ever have to use the gearshift release you don't have to hunt around for a knife since it's on pretty tight from the factory. (just leave it off once removed).
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I pulled the traction battery...remanned it with great success computer very happy with results... drove it for a week. Took it to Walmart to have oil changed... Got in car , started fine...new oil made motor even smoother....then in 200 yards at traffic light , motor died with unusual sound... pulled over and restarted...but would die. Lights all over dash on.
made it back to oil bay...engine would not restart.
pushed inside and would start and then die... then was rattling when dying
checked aux battery with testers , both indicated dead cell 10.25 volts
tried to substitute a new battery via heavy jumpers... got it to start then die..,..then no try at all
I have read forums ,,,that indicate after 3 tries on a dead aux battery , computer will immobilize it
Have tried replacing with a new lawn tractor battery .but seems the car is immobized . Read codes with Mini VCI, and was able to clear all codes but the immobilizer code.
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