Prius C :: When Idle RPM Go Up For About 15 To 20 Seconds Then Back Down
Apr 23, 2012
Prius c sometimes at a stop rpm go up for about 15 to 20 sec then back down is this normal.
View 2 RepliesPrius c sometimes at a stop rpm go up for about 15 to 20 sec then back down is this normal.
View 2 RepliesI have my truck idling in the driveway while doing a coolant flush and it developed a weird idle. It will idle fine for a while then all of a sudden it will idle up a little for about 3 seconds then go back down. It will do this 3-4 times then go back to a regular idle for a while. I got in and watched my SCT X4 to see if anything changes. My actually RPM didn't change and neither did my fuel pressure or anything but my turbo added about 1.5 pounds of boost when it does it. It happens about every 4-5 minutes.
View 11 RepliesI have rpm stalls then comes back every 2 seconds at idle After one hour driving . Whitout any error code and no check engine . I checked all the sensors and even changed alternator and throttle body completely. No I suspect to crankshaft position sensor .
View 4 RepliesJust got my timing belt replaced and a tune up on my 2005 subaru impreza wagon (80k miles). Car runs great, except that the idle now pulsates from 1000 to 2000 and back every 5 seconds when the blower is on. usual idle is smooth 750 rpm steady with blower off. Confirmed that it is not AC compressor by disconnecting electrically and mechanically (belt). The mechanics are stumped. What the heck happened? This was not an issue before the work.
View 7 RepliesEver since I've had the car, I've noticed after the gas engine kicks on, it runs a little rough for maybe 10-15 seconds. Only when it's sat for a while, hours or overnight. Replacing the plugs didn't work. Now, its not bad, not really a problem, but I'm wondering if the injectors might need cleaning.
View 19 RepliesWas driving my 2003 camry and all lights went out for about 2 seconds then came back on. Headlights and all dash lights. What the possible cause could be?
View 6 RepliesI was driving at 60mph and all of sudden rpm drop to zero went back to normal rpm after 5 seconds, pulled over thinking I blew some thing every thing seem normal is this a sensor problem.
2000 dodge ram 1500 5.9l 2wd
I have a 2012 Ford Taurus when I turn the ac on it goes fast and then back to normal every like 3-5 seconds. It blows cold air and it doesn't matter the speed of the ac it speeds up and slow back to normal. Has 49100 miles...
View 3 RepliesFor the past couple months every now and again the power dies in my car for merely two seconds, then flickers back on and I can accelerate again. Just the other day the car completely turned off and all the lights on the dash lit up. I had to break and restart the car in the middle of the road. What is the problem here and how cheap will it be to fix?
View 6 RepliesMy vr6 some times loses its power but it's weird because the check engine light does not appear. It does for like 30 seconds then it goes back to driving normally.
View 1 RepliesMy 99 jeep grand Cherokee 4.7 v8 4x4 will not start after 2 to 3 short trips. it starts up fine in the morning when the engine is cold but driving for a while while and I stop somewhere and shut the engine down for a few minutes it will not restart.. after I wait 10 to 15 min it start up ok.. Next when I'm driving on the highway, after 10-20 mins of driving, the engine stalls for 5-10 secs. and fires back up..I inspected all connections and the starter which were ok but I did find that the starter is soaked with oil dripping from the valve covers.. Could the oil be the problem..? Even causing the stalling out on the highway..?
View 2 Repliesmy 1990 Nissan 300zx with 136,000 miles often surges at highway speeds for several seconds then drops back down to normal. the surge is usually 1000 rpm. does not happen if not in overdrive, and will not happen unless having been driving for 15 minutes or so. also seems to occur more on hot days (80 degree +) than on cool days. mechanic has looked at this several times but not yet able to determine why.
View 2 RepliesB1602 PATS Recieved Invalid FMT/Key CD
P0753 Shift Solenoid A Electrical
P0758 Shift Solenoid B Electrical
P0740 Torque Converter Clutch Fault
P1760 Pressure Control Solenoid A Short
p0305 Cylinder 5 misfire Detected
P0316 Engine misfire Detected on Startup
The Trans will unlock while driveing for a few seconds then lock back up and drive fine, it seems to be worse over the past couple days. It is no different cold or hot. I also noticed the head lights dim and the voltage on my scanner drops to around 12 volts when the trans disengages. When it is not acting up it drives and shifts perfect.
I have checked a few grounds that were visible and cleaned battery connections. There has to be a wire harness or ground that I am missing some where that is bad?? The misfire code has been fixed, not related.
For reasons I can't figure, the Temp gauge on the wife's Explorer is shooting from normal to high in just seconds. Then, it drops back to normal. When I looked at it this afternoon, I noted 2 things.
1) There was no sign of a coolant leak or overheating.
2) There wasn't ANY coolant in the tank!!!!!!!
The truck has evidently been running fine while this is going on.
Vehicle: 1994 TripleE RV based on Ford E350 7,3 Diesel, 70000 miles.
My trans is skipping out of lockup for 1-2 Seconds and then goes back to normal operation with lockup engaged. I am shure that it is the lockup disengaging because the increase in rpm is not as much as between gears.
This happens appr once or twice every hour when driving at normal constant highway speed. It happens both in 3rd and in OD. There is no flashing OD lamp, and the OD button is working (I use this actively when going up hill to keep up momentum and rpm)
I am not able to find out what causes this. I have replaced the speed sensor on the rear axle, the rpm sensor on the engine and the brake light switch on the brake pedal. Replaced one item at the time to be able to determine if any of these items was causing the problem. But none of them made any difference, the problem is still there. I have also inspected the harness connector on the trans and it seems fine to me.
I've been having some issues with my mk4 R32. Right now i'm leaning toward changing the fuel pump and filter but i want to be sure before i do.....
Problem: I've been daily driving my r32 to work for the past couple weeks and about once a week it will start, idle for a couple seconds and then just bog out and die. no codes, just idle, then chugging and dying. it will fire with some starter fluid and will sometimes hold a very sickly idle but most the time will just run the starter fluid out. the weird thing is is that it's intermittent and will happen randomly and if i leave it overnight or sitting for a couple hours it will fire up like nothing was wrong. i just wanted some input on what it might be before i replace the pump. i have already done the relay so its not that.... the only code that it has ever thrown while i have owned it was for the intake changeover valve (N156) which i cleared and it hasnt yet to come up again.....
During the winter, i always noticed that when starting up the car for the first time, the rpm always jumped high for about 60sec - probably around 1100. i know is normal - just the antichoke kicking in. However, summer is almost here and today was a hot day, and when i started the car and it automatically idled at 600rpm straight away. Is this normal ? or has something happened to my autochoke?
View 8 RepliesI was coming at the climb, my car hit limp mode twice and later I noticed my CEL was on. I let it sit over night when I got where I was going and started it up today started fine but the CEL came on after it ran idle for about 45 seconds. I check the oil and it was on the low end. What it could be?
I drive a mk4 tdi with a malone tune. I am heading back to the valley tomorrow evening I'm just by kamloops right now. Also what oil should I top it with just so it isn't so low for the return trip? (Always get my oil done at the shop)
My work horse is singing me the blues. It will idle correctly for 1 - 2 sec., then approach death, then idle correctly again for 1 - 2 seconds. It responds as expected when the throttled of opened for 1 - 2 seconds, any longer it will begin to die. This is what I have done so far.
1. Changed the fuel filter. Did not check to see of water was in the filter as I only purchase gas from name brand gas stations. Did not think I could get bad gas from them.
2. Check MAP sensor, voltage signals were close. Changed it out any way. No change.
3. Checked the Engine Coolant Sensor, it is sending the correct voltage.
4. Checked the Idle Air Control Valve. The impedance is as called for in the Chilton repair manual.
5. Checked the Throttle Position Sensor. It appears to be sending the correct voltage as the throttle is opened and closed.
6. Overhauled the Fuel Pressure Regulator. Replaced the spring, diaphragm, and gaskets.
7. Overhauled the Throttle Body. Removed the injector, cleaned all passages with solvent and compressed air. Did not soak the injectors.
In my mind, all that is left is the fuel pump or maybe I did get bad gas.
I drive a 2003 Dodge Neon SXT with 153,000 miles on. When the engine is first started, there is a "click-click-click" about every 7-10 seconds. I've had the belts changed and adjusted, they freed up a stuck idler (didn't replace the idler, the price was several hundred dollars). Once the engine is warm, the noise goes away.
View 5 RepliesI bought a 1999 Olds Alero. I bought it because I've always had good luck with Oldsmobiles, I've had a '91 Cutlass Calais, '89 and '92 Eighty-Eight, '86 Ninety-Eight, and an '84 Cutlass Supreme. All great cars. But I digress.
The car runs superbly when driving, but it idles down to 500-750 rpms after being stopped dead still for about 2-3 seconds. Fuel economy is not really what I expected, but I do not know what its supposed to get. I've been measuring it religiously and it gets 22-26 mpg depending on how much traffic I run it through.
I was told the engine (2.4L Twin Cam) was replaced. The car has 106k miles on it. I have replaced the spark plugs and their connectors, replaced the throttle body and Throttle Position Sensor, Idle Air Control Valve, and fixed misc. vacuum leaks. I have also replaced the air filter, and oil change. The car used to stall after it idled down, now it continues to run, but still the idle problem persists. I've been told a myriad of things from the Catalytic Convertor, The Fuel Regulator, Balance Shaft Bearing failure or shaft breakage. Does any of this sound like it could be the mystery problem?
At idle, you can move the throttle just enough to get it to idle at 1000-1200 rpms and it seems to like running there. Can't figure out why it idles down so low.